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Nov 17, 2018, 01:04 AM
Right Rudder
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E-Flite Carbon T-28 Giant 78+ inch wing span!


Guys!

I must be with great luck lately (Blessed) and thereby resulting in looking like an early Christmas!

Just look at the deal I secured today for a cool $230 cash! E-Flite Carbon T-28 Giant 12-lbs RC model!

It almost didnít fit in my momís 2014 Toyota RAV-4 SUV!
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Nov 17, 2018, 02:12 AM
If it flies, I can crash it.
rocketsled666's Avatar
There's a very extensive thread for modifications for this plane. There are some you should probably do before you fly it. Try this: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ication-Thread

It fits fully assembled in the bed of a pickup truck.

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Nov 17, 2018, 07:19 AM
Right Rudder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketsled666
There's a very extensive thread for modifications for this plane. There are some you should probably do before you fly it. Try this: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ication-Thread

It fits fully assembled in the bed of a pickup truck.

Attachment 11345114
Thank you!

I am ON IT!
Nov 17, 2018, 08:16 AM
Registered User
Best flying plane you will own.
Nov 17, 2018, 08:19 AM
Right Rudder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t33jetman
Best flying plane you will own.
Ha! I was just watching your Video on that BLUE ANGLES paint scheme! Super Nice!

Eflite Carbon Z T-28 walk around (6 min 31 sec)
Nov 17, 2018, 01:04 PM
Right Rudder
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Thread OP

Holy Jammed Nose Wheel Retract, Batman!


Guys,

I am so glad and fortunate to have slowed down and look over carefully my new acquisition (E-Flite Carbon T-28 Trojan)!

1. Using a spare E-Flite 40-AMP Brushless ESC I was able to activate Rudder / Elevator servos on the model.
2. As soon as I connected the battery and had Receiver sync up with Transmitter, I heard the Nose Wheel retract spool instantly but, no movement.
3. After about 48 seconds after RX and Transmitter sync and me commanding just the Rudder / Elevator servos I smelled that electronic overheating Oder and quickly disconnected and proceeded to BLOW cool Air inside that Spare ESC.
4. The main RX and Satellite RX was found to be in a Flashing condition (Brown-Out).
5. I disconnected the Nose Wheel Retract & Steering Servo and reconnected everything else and I left the model active for about 5 minutes without any issues and never did I get any Flashing (Brown-Out) indication from the RX.
6. Called previous owner and asked if he ever smelled any overheating Order from the Supplied ESC onboard the model when he noticed the Nose Wheel Retract not functioning and he said NO.

SUMMARY:

Heading to the RC Hobby Shop to purchase a few things this MOD Thread recommended plus a new Nose Wheel Retract and two converter connectors:
such as the EC3 Male -To- EC5 Female and the Male Deans -To- EC3 Female.

Stay Tuned!


Nov 17, 2018, 06:19 PM
Right Rudder
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Ready for MODS!


Guys,

Just came back from many errands and one important one was going to GravesRC which is my complete RC Physical Brick & Mortar store that has everything, including the 2-52 wire and matching clevises. Of course got the DU-BRO 2-56 Spring Steel Kwik Links and DU-BRO Spring Keepers.

Additionally, got the EC5 female -to- Deans Male adapter and other 2-Cell Series Dean Harness (Using two 3-Cell Packs) and another harness for Modifying more by using a CASTLE CREATIONS BEC PRO!


Last edited by PittSpecial; Nov 17, 2018 at 06:58 PM.
Nov 18, 2018, 01:46 AM
Right Rudder
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Ready for flight!


Guys,

I am now ready to fly my recently acquired (used) E-Flite Carbon T-28 Trojan

1. Troubleshooting all servos have been completed with the "Spare" E-Flite 40-AMP ESC, including Flaps and Ailerons.
2. AMP (Current) Measurements for ALL Servos being used for Flight (No Retracts, except Nose Wheel Steering) was 0.32 AMPS MAX.
3. Noticed that the "Spare" E-Flite 40-AMP ESC has been stressed because it just could not handle the load and Receiver experienced Brown-Out.
4. Testing with Final Power System Setup and while using the E-Flite 70-Amp ESC & Castle Creations BEC PRO was successful and motor Armed and spooled up!
5. The Castle Creations BEC PRO is providing lots of AMP (Current) for the Load Demand of ALL Servos and no Brown-Outs!
6. Yes, the BEC from the E-Flite 70-AMP ESC was disabled using a short harness extension and the Power Lead was removed from connector.
7. Nose Wheel Steering was double secured by using a small Servo Arm locking block.
8. Ailerons, Rudder and Elevator received Upgrades for Control Rods and Clevises! (See Pictures)

VIDEO showing Troubleshooting while using the "Spare" E-Flite 40-AMP ESC:

E Flite Carbon T 28 Trojan Checking All Electronics using Spare 40 AMP ESC 11 17 2018 (2 min 12 sec)



VIDEO showing FINAL Power System Setup while using the E-Flite 70-AMP ESC:

E Flite Carbon T 28 Trojan FINAL Power System Setup 11 17 2018 (1 min 31 sec)
Last edited by PittSpecial; Nov 18, 2018 at 01:51 AM.
Nov 18, 2018, 02:28 AM
If it flies, I can crash it.
rocketsled666's Avatar
The servos will draw quite a bit more power in flight. All the work that goes in to changing the direction of the plane in flight has to be generated by the control surfaces which of course are driven by the servos.

Looks like you're all set to fly. Note that because it has AS3X, and because you changed all the control linkages, you're going to need to trim it the right way. Take off, trim it out for straight and level flight, then land. Power cycle the RX and don't give it any throttle so AS3X stays shut off (otherwise, you have to get the plane perfectly level for the next step). Note the position of each control surface, take out the trim, and then adjust the linkage so the control surface is in the same position it was in before you took the trim out. Now go fly again.

You're using a UBEC. You removed the red power lead from the ESC, right? Are you powering the retracts separately from the RX? Of additional note, that Castle 10A BEC will only be good for 5A with a 6S supply. Which is really no better than the ESC's BEC. The servos are unlikely to be a problem, but the retracts can get stuck and when they do, they can draw a lot of power. The smartest mod for this airplane is to put the retracts on their own power supply so there is no possible way they can brown out the RX. The JP Retract controller is also a good mod, since this will shut the retract down if it draws too much power.
Nov 18, 2018, 03:50 AM
Right Rudder
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Thread OP
Nope, my T28 has nothing in terms of AS3X.

Yes,.................using CC BEC PRO requres the removal of RED (Middle Power Wire) and which I did and posted as such up above.

Retracts will be something that I will need to give some thought in the future.

Bottom line.......................Seems like many of the premium priced E-Flite planes have glaring flaws in their design and execution. Im seeing lots of issues with the new E-Flite Cherokee, as an example. These problems might be expected on cheapies but should not happen on premium priced planes.
Nov 18, 2018, 01:52 PM
If it flies, I can crash it.
rocketsled666's Avatar
So there is no AR636 RX in the plane?
Nov 18, 2018, 02:06 PM
Right Rudder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketsled666
So there is no AR636 RX in the plane?
That is correct!

I am using the Soektrum AR8000 + Satellite receiver!
Nov 18, 2018, 05:06 PM
Right Rudder
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Thread OP

Successful Maiden Flight and other Flights!


Guys,

This large (Giant) E-Flite Carbon T-28 Trojan is a large Pussy Cat in the Air! I can't say enough things about it as far as it's flying characteristics!

Flight #1:

Found myself securing the twin 3-Cell battery packs with industrial Velcro instead of any loop material because one of the previous owners took the look out. When I arrived in Titusville, Florida, I went straight to HOME Depot and bought a few Velcro Loops an d flat industrial grade Velcro. Yes, I flew the model with just Velcro and made sure all my flight was easy going and flight level. Landing this Giant scale model was a delight but, I had to adjust my expectations as this model wants to Float and Float forever! I went around four (4) times to get a decent approach and still over shot the runway.

To reduce airspeed, I opted to perform side slip and it worked even with a touch of side wind action I was able to Slide Slip the model and at the last three (3) feet I commanded Rudder to straighten the model for final touch down on the Textile Runway. Rudder control is beyond expectations!


Flight #2:

Still using the same Pair of Battery Packs (they measured 12.10 Volts and 12.15 Volts each after allowing the Battery Packs to rest and allowing the Voltage to increase as a result of resting., Based on the measurements, I went ahead and flew for another 4 minutes with the same caution because the batteries were still held on with Velcro only. Performed several Touch & Goes and finally got her dialed-In as far as getting familiar with the model and how to grease approach and touch down at a specific spot on the runway.


Flight #3:

Recharged the same (2) batteries packs and this time I had someone give me two wood screws of almost 1/4 long and using a small drill bit, made a pilot hole to avoid the plywood battery tray from splinting and screwed in at least one thick Velcro Strap for better battery securing and it worked like a charm! I held up that heavy model from the Velcro battery strap and held nicely.

Now that the battery packs were held on much more securely, I flew it with a little more throttle and performed ALL Sorts of Sport Maneuvers consisting of Hammer Heads, Continuous Cuban-8's, Half Cubans, and inverted flight, plus side slip approaches of course.

First two flights were tail heavy and this 3rd flight, I was able to situate both battery packs flat and side-by-side plus moved them forward about 1 inch forward the foam bulk head area and into the Frontal Fuse cavity. This worked wonders with the Center-Of-Gravity and I was able to really enjoy the flight without compensating with constant Down Elevator!



Final Summary:

I can say the Man-Handling of this model was worth it as it was a delight to fly! When you reduce Power it becomes this large Park Flyer in the Sky! You should have seen it with flaps and NO POWER, it just keeps on flying!


My Camera Person mistakenly turned OFF the video thinking it was not running and so, what you will see in the following Video is my Maiden Post Landing and Taxi Back to the Pilots station.

Maiden Flight E-Flite Carbon T-28 Trojan - Post Landing Only 11-18-2018 (0 min 22 sec)
Nov 18, 2018, 11:33 PM
If it flies, I can crash it.
rocketsled666's Avatar
You shouldn't have problems with the plane carrying speed on final with full flaps. Full flaps should deploy basically as far as the servo can move them. Think of them as "air brakes". (note, do the flaps-tape mod if you didn't already. I just used some clear packing tape, completely invisible and no way for the foam hinged to tear).

So, be careful of those screw heads. I would suggest you lay something soft and squishy over them so there's no chance they can dent the battery or possibly cut/puncture/wear-through the battery cell plastic jacket.
Nov 19, 2018, 05:39 AM
Right Rudder
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Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketsled666
You shouldn't have problems with the plane carrying speed on final with full flaps. Full flaps should deploy basically as far as the servo can move them. Think of them as "air brakes". (note, do the flaps-tape mod if you didn't already. I just used some clear packing tape, completely invisible and no way for the foam hinged to tear).

So, be careful of those screw heads. I would suggest you lay something soft and squishy over them so there's no chance they can dent the battery or possibly cut/puncture/wear-through the battery cell plastic jacket.
Thanks you! I am on it and will hide the screw heads away from making contact with the battery.

The Velcro Loop material is taller than the screw head but, nonetheless, I will place a soft and sponginess material over them.

Thanks again!


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