Thread Tools
This thread is privately moderated by PeterVRC, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Nov 15, 2018, 12:15 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Build Log

F-14 Tomcat - Freewing twin 80mm EDF (Rating 5/10 !!!)

It just feels like Christmas, so......

After a LONG drawn out yes/no battle over the Freewing F-14 Tomcat I gave in and got one.
I had a valid reason!! It looks great! Oh and another one.... it is BIG. Bigger than anything else I have. And.... it has scale swept wing ability too!
So many good reason..... hehe
Mind you I was also tossing up over the Freewing A-10 Warthog 1700mm, and that only JUST lost out the battle with the F-14. Yet I might get that also later.... (For Xmas??) - but will have to sell my LX 1550mm A-10 first to be fair.

I think the L-39 Albatros 80mm was the "primer" for these, as being 80mm also means it uses the same batteries as these will - these will just use TWO of those each flight. So getting the 'cheaper' single 80mm FIRST meant.......

Last edited by PeterVRC; Dec 26, 2018 at 10:00 PM.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Nov 21, 2018, 06:52 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

How big???

Well, the F-14 arrived..... in its REASONABLY big, impressive, box. But it didn't seem that big a box....

The main fuselage section seemed fairly big in the box and when I got it out, but it is really the majority of the entire aircraft.
The "wings" are a fairly small addition, as the entire wing is really also a large part of the FUSELAGE anyway.
The Fins and Stabilators were also not so large.
So all in all, whilst it is a somewhat big foam jet, it is no bigger than many of the FlyFly 90mm jets. Especially yhe BAE Hawk and F-86 Sabre (FlyFly). Those are really large size AND volume aircraft models!
I was expecting the F-14 to be 10% to 20% larger than it was..... so that was disappointing!

Other than that it is all 'New Generation" design and parts and stuff. Even though it is a 2015 design. So I was surprised how much 'good stuff' it included.
Pretty well all the types of good stuff the L-39 has.

It is all very well thought out, designed, implemented. Though as much as they make custom stuff - especially the alloy parts - to achieve required construction goals/needs, it is always the BARE MINIMUM to do so. So 'bare minimum' that is is only JUST OK for what it needs to do - or in some cases 'Not quite enough. Not quite good enough.....

Having said that, the end result is HEAVY!!! So they didn't really have much/any leeway to make things heftier anyway!
Nov 21, 2018, 07:13 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

Wing Box, mechanism, issue

The Wing Sweep capability, via the Wing Box setup/mechanism, is reasonably impressive. From a technical point of view it is great how they can custom design, and have made, the alloy parts - and even plastic parts - to do a task in the exact way, and strength/size, they need for that task. Not having to make do with 'anything around' to build something up at home, like modelers often do!
And they tend to get the construction size/strength 'right' for its required purpose. Sometimes a little bit on the 'light' side....

The manual doesn't tell you how to assemble the Wing stuff PROPERLY!!
They give you all the parts to do so, but it does not outline HOW to use those.... the SHIMS. Shims to set up the bearings and surfaces of the Swing Wing correctly and optimally. I don't know what other people did when they assembled it as a LOT of people will not understand this bearing/shim/load stuff....

It takes trial and errors to test the results of shimming to get it correct. Look, guess, assemble, see the result... no, it needs another shim.... disassemble, re-do....

One part that was amiss - a pair - was the support arm you fit from the wing 'box' end frame to the fuselage. The hole to hole distance is too short, thus you can't fit both end bolts/screws.I had to file one end to be elongated for them to align.
These are mass produced items and that would make it seems that ALL are not right on anyone's F-14.....
You might be able to FORCE the alignment - I didn't try! Because that would put undue stresses on things, and/or even warp/mis-align entire assembly stuff! Far better that it FIT ALIGNED properly !!

Another "issue" was when you sweep the wings they RUB - the wing underside on the fuselage upper surface. This friction is TOO MUCH!! It causes the Wing Sweep Drive System to run under high load... you can hear them strain to drive the wings in!! That also makes them not track equally side to side, as one struggles more at this point, and the other side at another point. Plus once one of the drive motors stalled when it was too much load.
This is just UNACCEPTABLE operation!!!

Shims.... the lower shims do alter this wing to fuselage gap, BUT you CANNOT use them to make a bigger gap, because their real job is to set up the BEARING positions and pressures etc. So DO NOT ADD SHIMS to make a larger gap there!! But I bet most people did exactly that!!
They supply three shims so you can fit what is required to set it up correctly, but most people probably just put in all three no matter what!! more so seeing the manual doesn't even outline what and how to do it properly!!

So to fix... improve... the rubbing issue, I smeared some VASELINE on the surfaces that rub. (Petroleum Jelly). This lubrication reduced the friction massively, to be negligible! So in lubrication, friction issue, terms it is great. But in terms of what issues Petroleum Jelly might cause to foam/paint... I am not sure yet. It SEEMS alright.....

So these above things are just a few key things you want to set up RIGHT!! Rather than just bolt together supplied parts without any mechanical/engineering thoughts about it.....

Everything else in the Wing Sweep system was perfectly fine as it came.

Last edited by PeterVRC; Nov 24, 2018 at 04:49 AM.
Nov 21, 2018, 07:43 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

Some pics

So, it is a fairly big jet - maybe a fraction larger than a typical "90mm" size. One day I will "overlay" my FlyFly Mig-29 against it....
But another 'scale thing' is that the F-14 full scale is a BIG aircraft..... so when you make it as a "1.5m long" model, its VOLUME is fairly LOW. Because its Scale Number is quite high. Versus, say, the FlyFly Mig-29 which the full scale is somewhat smallish and that means that a 1.4m long model has a HIGH Volume then - due to a lowish Scale Number to achieve 1.4m.
The same happens in the Freewing Su-35..... and FlyFly Hawker Hunter..... which have High Scale Numbers, and thus lowish volumes in the scale model.

I guess I have been a bit "spoilt" by the FlyFly F-86 Sabra, F-100 Super Sabre, BAE HAWK..... which are all BIG Volume models! On top of their 1.5m region lengths and wing spans.

On the F-14 I would say everything is done to an EXCELLENT level !!!
The foam construction.... the details... the paint.... the fittings....
Only ONE thing seems a bit amiss.... the Wing Centre Cover. It is not a super good fit, plus has quite large gaps from Wing to Cover.
The full scale has 'fingers', sort of, so it has a totally flush, rubbing, fit and no gap. But in foam you could not do that.
They COULD have made some intermediate surface mating material there. To allow the cover to have a bit pf pressure, and the mating material stop wear etc. Something like a thin felt strip on the Wing Cover UNDERSIDE, so the gap can be made to almost zero and the small remaining part is the felt 'fronds' running over the wing.
I would do something like this, but a bigger issue first would be to reduce the existing gap - which is more of a 'slope' and larger to the forwards end of the cover. It is the SHAPE in the EPO foam that sets that and it might be hard to alter that in any decent/useful manner - via heat etc.

I will see what I can do....

Nov 21, 2018, 07:52 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

Wiring - the Rats Nest, and complexity

A LOT of wiring!!!
There is a lot of RC wiring in the F-14, and it pretty well all heads to, or comes from, the F-15 Control Unit that is under the Wing Cover.

First of all, I will most likely NOT use all the Control Unit functions - though most of them.
The Ailerons will be separated and stand-alone, to allow Full length Flaps to be set up.
I MIGHT not use the Wing Sweep via their Control Unit - to Allow individual channels for that.

Seeing the F-14 will need over 8 channels, there is no really issue having up to 16 channels if I want..... so things like individual Ailerons control, and individual Wing Sweep control, can be useful or 'luxury' abilities.
And I am looking into adding Air Brakes - more for looks than any real need.....

So the wiring setup, and TX programming task, is going to be quite a big one!!!
But first I have to decide WHERE the RX.... SBUS Decoder/s.... SBEC.... will actually all go!!!
Luckily Freewing have used the "PeterVRC Extended hatch" strategy and provided a VERY LONG hatch area to access and fit things into!!
Last edited by PeterVRC; Nov 24, 2018 at 04:49 AM.
Nov 22, 2018, 01:25 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

RC Setup

This is going to be a BIG task !!! There are numerous 'interlocks' required for various surface operations, so that you can NEVER cause a 'clash'.... jam, damage, breakage....

Control Surface Outline:

I will have:

1) Full length Flaps - NO Ailerons ever.
2) "Spoilers" - which are actually Ailerons that can only ever go UPWARDS.
3) But Spoilers will only operate if the Wings are Forwards. (Full Wing Span)
4) Spoilers will not Operate if Flaps (which are Full Span) are Extended.
5) Full time Tailerons
6) Flaps will be on individual channels and NOT go through the FW control unit - partly to allow accurate individual setup of them.
7) Flaps need to be 'gated' so they do not operate if the Wings are Swept(!)
8) More importantly, if the Flaps ARE deployed and THEN Wing Sweep is selected, the Flaps retract BEFORE any Wing Sweep is commenced(!)

These will not be a problem to achieve in OpenTX, but you need to get it all 'right'... and fool proof!! (in case a fool gets to fly the F-14 !! LOL)
It will probably take hours to set this all up to be working properly!!

This does not include other 'systems' I will add in, to utilise the Angle Mode of Control capability, that Auto Level Mode provides, in the S8R I will be using. Things like "Semi Automated Take-Off and Landing' processes - more use in the Landing process really.
I think I need more SWITCHES !!! But I should be able to offload some functions to be in Flight Modes which can be selected via the ONE 6 position switch I have on my TX. eg Normal Flight Mode, Landing Mode, and....?

This is making me think that I should be REPLACING my 6 position switch with a 6 BUTTON switch unit I bought to use instead.
A 6 position switch has to be TURNED and also must pass through OTHER modes along that way.
A 6 BUTTON switch you can just click on whichever EXACT mode you want at any time. That is FAST, and EXACTLY what you want to select immediately.
I have just never bothered to change that..... but I think I will HAVE to for this jet !! Another hour or so task to do....... (plus an hour, or more, to FIND where that is.....)
Nov 24, 2018, 04:59 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

OpenTX setup - a BIG task !

Because an F-14 has Flaps AND can Sweep its wings to go 'over' the fuselage, this means you need a control system that NEVER allows the Flaps to deploy that they would HIT the fuselage! There are two cases for this to occur.
1) Flaps Extended when the Wing Sweep is selected - they would hit into the side of the fuselage
2) Flaps Deployed BEFORE the Wings have been unswept/extended - they would hit the top of the fuselage.

You might think that a SIMPLE "Disable Flaps if Wing Sweep is activated/active" would solve this... but it actually does not.

I wrote up a MS Word document outlining my OpenTX setup to solve ALL possible issues of this Sweep/Flap interaction!
It took a fair amount of thought, and a lot of TESTING, to get things all working properly.
The document/outline might show you more of what 'unseen' problems there are!

Even with this OpenTX 'complex solution' there are some OpenTX quirks - due to initialisations and timings they have - that can make it messed up. This is to do with the states that are current when you power up the TX and Aircraft. I think I know what matters, but I am also working out ways to FORCE a 100% stable/assured start-up state.
The full Sweep/Flaps solution requires a lot of Edge/Sticky functions and timings, and OpenTX throws in some quirks when you use those sorts of things 'ganged' together.

But anyway, it all works..... as long as I CHECK the initial states to be sure they are 'correct'. I think I have a startup manner - of switch selections - that does make that 'right' each time. I THINK.....

Nov 24, 2018, 05:02 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

Battery area extension

A very small, 20mm (?), extension....
You need every bit of REARWARDS battery position that you can get!
Even with both batteries fully rearwards it is still a little bit nose heavy. I will have to add some tail end lead weight to give me some battery placement leeway.

Nov 24, 2018, 05:11 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

RX and Antennas

Somewhat annoyingly, on this BIG EDF jet.... with a TON of internal NOSE end space... there is very little space for the RC gear!!!
This is because it was all set up, designed, to have the RC gear under the rear battery tray - which that tray is suspended higher in the fuselage above the RC bay.
This is effectively a USELESS place!!
Firstly as it is a bit too small - versus a TON of room up in the very nose end(!).
Then it is messy to get to - though workable.

With all the Rats Nest of RC wiring that is more rearwards under the Wing Cover, that would be a good place to have ALL RC stuff - but it is very crowed in there!
But I worked out where an RX CAN fit.... so that was where I put my X8R.
I wanted to use a Flight Controller version S8R but I only had two S6R's free, and could not be bothered changing one for an S8R that is not being fully used in some other jet. maybe I will change that over another day.....

Moving the RX stuff OUT of the battery area also allows making the extended tray, and having that LOW in the fuselage too!

One issue with placing the RX where I 'had' to is that the Antenna Wires are SHORT and where would I put those?
The whole Wing Cover needs to come off, so they can't be affixed to that which meant they would have to live somewhere in amongst the Rats Nest of wiring under the Wing Cover! That seemed a scarey thought.....

Then I remembered I had a heap of longer antennas that are Base Loaded (whatever that is good for) and that would allow them to be run up through the Wing Cover, and their length allows no hinderance to the Wing Cover when you take that off. The longer antennas 'coiling' under the Wing Cover is not the same as having the 'real' antenna portion, of a short normal antenna, in there amongst other wiring. In this longer Antenna case the 'real' antenna is OUTSIDE the F-14. plus each can be set to a 45deg angle to form a 90deg "V" formation.
So this idea worked out very well.....

Nov 28, 2018, 09:08 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

3D Printed Stores

My F-14 came with the 'optional weapons set', though Hobby-Paradise don't have a NO weapons version, plus their cost is close to MotionRC's non-weapon price anyway. So I was getting them whether I wanted them or not....

Overall they are quite nice. Nicely done.... well painted and trimmed...... though the FINS are pretty poor. Very thin plastic.... badly cut..... bent.... One AIM-7 Sparrow is missing one fin (not just the fin they leave off on purpose for it to mount)....
And, being foam their bodies bend a bit, plus have large round noses seeing making 'pointy' foam is destined to be trouble.

BUT.... once they are on the F-14 they still look really good, as you don't really notice the "issues". Well... you do, but....

Seeing I have made so many 3D printed things, and many weapons sets for various jets, I decided I would make new Aim-9 Sidewinders (2), and new AIM-7 Sparrows (2), because I can make them to perfect scale, with thin perfect fins etc etc.
One issue is making up the Freewing type mount KEYS. So they key into the stock mounts. They are a very simple design BUT very difficult for a 3D Printer to do a good/useful job of. So making those is very difficult - if at all possible.

The KEY portion need to be printed 'sideways'... vertically... as the key must be on the print bed, in that specific direction. But there are two keys... and that leaves one of them 'up in the air' and unworkable. When you encounter such things in 3D printing the best thing to do is SEPARATE them and do them as two parts, joining them later. But these parts are SMALL and joining them is messy and fraught with notable error tolerance. (Pic below)
But it is the only way I have worked out so far....

You print two, and they join them to the middle of the mount. This also forms another 'key hole' for a tab on the missile to align and position them accurately. A neat idea.. but still quite hard to assemble and do well.
At worst I can use Self Tapping screws, with broad heads, to mimic the Freewing keys anyway. It would just be nice to have the exact same Freewing keys as they are technically a little bit better than screws.....

Seeing the AIM-9 and AIM-7 went so well, I decided to do some Conformal Tanks also. These are quite large fuel tanks they often carry under the nacelles. An issue with those is HOW to mount them to the nacelle undersides, in a neat manner so if they are off you won't see any 'junk' under there. The mounts on the nacelles need to be fully embedded, but the nacelle foam is very thin there!
So I am still pondering over those mounts - to make sure I arrive at the best method!

The stock AIM-54 Phoenix missiles (2) are better made, as they are big and that is then easier to make better. But being foam it means the NOSE is a round blunt end, not a point as per real-life. So this made me decide to make AIM-54's also!

All the missile types used on F-14's (and all other aircraft) can come in a myriad of various colors, so whilst the stock missile colors/decals look great, they are not what they will have most of the time.
I will stick to mostly white as that the color they are printed in, but will airbrush other colors used. And make color printed stripes/decals.

Note the nacelle underside rails LEFT ON the F-14 in one of the pics below. That is very rare! They almost always remove the rails. Even though the tanks are see in use a LOT of the time. They just bolt on the rails and the tanks IF being used.
And note the 'pointy' missiles.... LOL
Dec 01, 2018, 08:07 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

Maiden Flight - failure to launch

It was a quite nice day with light winds, so off I went with the F-14 (and others).
The main 'flying field' was over-run by sports, so we headed to another nearby part of the huge parklands that suit flying also. Both areas are well maintained with sports field cut grass - if it has been cut for a while. But it had been cut in the last week or so.....

A slight head wind.....and off it goes..... sort of.
I could see very quickly that it was not fast..... not fast enough.....
It hit a Terminal Velocity in about 15 metres or so, and just maintained that. You could visually see it was too slow for its 'size'. If you saw an A380 trundling down a runway at 200kph (100kts) you would pretty surely know, just visually, that could not fly either! So it was pretty clear it was too slow.

But I persevered.... taking the long walk to retrieve it and try again.... and again....
The poor landing gear! Though it remained unscathed - I am sure it would not like the hammering of the grass/ground for so long, and done again and again....
And still no take-off....

I was using 'mid' Flaps. I didn't try, or want to try, FULL Flaps because I ran them through the Freewing 'Blue Box' and with them being ONE channel then, there is no way to match them up fully - and they about 2mm amiss at Full Flap. There is nothing you can adjust for that, you need them on two channels.
It just seemed to me that the difference would matter some clear amount in ROLL, and not so bad to try them and find out when in flight higher up, but not right after a lift off from an already struggling airspeed aircraft!!
So, it just could not fly.....

I am pretty sure it will need a hard runway, so it will force me to go out to a local club....
At least the runs it had made me 'forget' about it being new and a maiden! After a run or so of failure you just think 'Come on, fly!!!'
I am sure it will just take-off an fly totally fine anyway, so I am not too fussed about any handling/behaviour issue. But a bit about a FAILURE possibility.... eg servo goes sick, blue box goes sick....
Dec 01, 2018, 08:18 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

Modded 3D stores

Dabbling in ways to 3D Print the stores ''easier", and more "complete" so that the least gluing is required, and NO screws for mounting etc.... After a few tests I worked that out! So now they are all just two piece, with inbuilt 'joiners' so all they need is a smear of CA, or Epoxy.... and no screws. Also "proper" Freewing Mounts as part of the item, which was the main focus.
I also "tuned" the layer/perimeter structures to be fussier about only the required plastic, strength, per areas, so that also reduced their weights too. With all the changes combined it is about 20% lighter per item. So a full load (6) gives a notable weight saving.

Now to test some print colors, to see what is best to have them a close to "ready" just as printed, so there is little/no painting to do.
It would be nice to ONLY need to add "stripes" sort of stuff to them, making it very little to do to complete them.
There is no specific color needs as F-14's (and all aircraft types anyway) were fitted with all kinds of color ordinance, and even parts of the ordinance item itself could vary color (eg AIM-9 with different nose, body and even tail, colors). In a way those even look cool/neat anyway, but for a 'pristine airshow version' you would more likely see some "nice" missile sets (dummies) on it anyway, LOL.

All white is typically nice, BUT all the F-14 stores mount areas are white(!), so that makes seeing the ordinance/missiles harder. You really want something like Freewing used (lightish brown/grey), or some form of grey, and the stripings give that base color some contrast areas.
I have a few colors to test.....

V3 printed items. Tanks in 'grey' - a good color for the AIM-9 bodies also. The Sparrow remains all white. The AIM-54 all white but a grey/silver nose.
And various colored stripes to add also of course (none for AIM-7).
The tank under-nacelle mounts are also made - but will be white to match the F-14. (I ran out of white). I still have not decided if I will glue the mounts on permanently, or via screw mounts - the mounts have screw holes in them already if I choose that way.
Also a GBU-12 option added.

Last edited by PeterVRC; Dec 03, 2018 at 05:09 AM.
Dec 06, 2018, 07:18 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

Weapons - still....

Passing the time making the weapons sets complete...

GBU-12's are mounted on 'extra' pylons, typically on the forwards fuselage 'big rails', thus they hang notably lower down then. Thus I needed to make up some of those for any GBU-12 use....

I made some Grey body AIM-54's, with white noses. They look nicer than the all white ones - though more often all white ones, or all grey ones, were fitted (seen in most pics). BUT, some are grey with a white nose too.... so....
The grey/white looks much nicer.

But I still need to make up colored STRIPING for all missiles - that will just be decal vinyl that I cut into required strip widths.

The AIM-9 is now grey body with a 'grey-silver' nose end. That looks much more noticeable. (and are valid colors)

The AIM-7 Sparrow remains ALL WHITE, as they almost always are, plus that just suits them well for some reason. (still some stripes to add)

Overall I think they ALL really need spray painting anyway. That would just look notably better. Just the same colors, but it then makes them into 'solid' objects. I have not decided if I will do that... but I am leaning towards it.
I have to decide before any striping gets done....

The Conformal Tanks have White mounts made now, but I have not decided HOW to affix them yet. And I don't really want to glue them on and have them PERMANENT. For one reason, as they are not true heights of the pylons used. And another is that they are just not on there for almost any flight that has not got the tanks on also.
This means I need to make some inlaid mounts for those to be screwed into. That is not hard really - 3D printed plates. So that is very likely to be the way I do it.... 98% assured....
They will be white and 'unseen', and then you just screw on the pylon/mount and fit the tank to that.

Dec 06, 2018, 07:51 AM
Registered User
Thread OP

Power System upgrade

I hummed and harred over this for a LONG time!!
There were not many options, but enough to make it very difficult to decide on what to do - if anything!

Firstly, the F-14 just does not have enough Power/Thrust for grass operations. Not reliable and SAFE operations!
The way it accelerated was mediocre, and the terminal velocity was pretty poor. Even if it did manage to hit some bump to lift the nose into a take-off rotation, it would be slow and in danger of dropping a wing (near stall). It is just not up to the speed required for a safe take-off!

Secondly, it is just a bit 'anemic' in flight anyway - as seen in videos. It is OK, but it is not a "F-14", "Mach 2 capable", speed.
It just does not have the EDF Power system to do it justice. Which I sort of knew/suspected but the same things that make this UPGRADE a difficult decision, made the choice to get the KIT instead difficult!

The price difference to a KIT (lower) is nowhere near the value 'lost' in not getting the EDF/ESC pairs! So you are losing out a lot in dollar value.
BUT what you get is no use anyway! LOL (the stock 3530-1680kv setups)
Thus I bought the PNF in the HOPE that it might even just be fine as it comes...... NO.... hmmm, oh well.....

Buy a pair of 3530-1850kv motors and change to those. Which then also need 100Amps ESC's instead of the 80Amp ESCs it comes with.
This means FITTING the motors and balancing the EDFs yourself - which I can do, but it is TIME too.
These have approx 2700g bench thrust at 95Amps region.
Cost AUD$75 each and $40 shipping = total AUD$190

Buy a pair of 3530-1850kv motor/EDFs complete. The reason to do this is to KEEP all EDFs complete.
Same end result as the above motor way.
Cost AUD$110 each and again $40 shipping = total AUD$260

Buy a pair of FMS 3270-2000kv motor/EDFs complete. Again still needing a 100A ESC solution also.
These have 2850g bench thrust at 95Amps, thus the same POWER as the Frewwing 1850kv setup, but 100g more Thrust.
This will be due to the better inrunner motor being more efficient.
Cost AUD$120 each and again $40 shipping = total AUD$280

Having to spend $190 more is already a fair amount..... but heading to $260.... $280.... is getting worse and worse!
But you are getting SOMETHING.... just not a very good return ratio per dollar!
And note, there will be MORE COST in adding two 100A ESC's also!!

Then the next option.
Freewing 3568-1857kv Inrunner motor/EDF, which are supposed to be HET motors - which are EXPENSIVE, but also very good!
These have 3100g Thrust at 95 Amps.... which I am not sure I believe, but could be possible. The HET motor being way better than cheapo Freewing Outrunners, or the probably 'average' quality FMS inrunner.
Cost AUD$143 each and again $40 shipping = total AUD$323 !!!
A HET motor alone (that same one, but in 1900kv), to buy and get here, is $150 ! So in some ways it is value.....

This choice is a BIG Power/Thrust rise!! So I decided to get this option.... seeing a lot was being spent anyway, what is a bit more!!?? LOL

For ESC's, part of the reason I was OK about the costs was that I have many ESC's here, especially 6S, which I rarely use. So I have a pair of Red Brick 125Amp ESCs I can use anyway. Though I am a BIT 'worried' about efficiency issues they MIGHT have - versus good brand, more costly ESC's. I would prefer HobbyKing YEP, or Rotorstar (same things), but then those are AUD$80 region each!
So I will use the Red Bricks and think about the results.... and if need be, I will get some 100Amp Rotorstars.....

These EDFs should only be a few more working days away..... Next Tuesday/Wednesday?

Oh, and part of the 'equation' of the upgrade was to use the F-14 3530-1680kv EDF's and ESCs in a Freewing A-10 KIT. They should be plenty of power for that.
BUT, yet again, a big nuisance in the KIT A-10 is that is is only AUD$170 less than its PNF form!! So once again, you 'lost' a pair of EDF/ESC's that would cost close to AUD$400 to buy! And they only gave you $170 back instead.....

DOH !!!!

The set of HOLES at the rear of the motor is a HET 'trademark' - but does not guarantee they are HET! But supposedly they are.....
Dec 13, 2018, 04:57 PM
Registered User
Thread OP

3568-1850kv 'high speed upgrade' Inrunner EDFs

The new EDF's arrived in the typical 'from Hobby-Paradise in China' expediency of 3 working days!
It still amazes me how fast they now get things to your door from China!

They are really well made.... beautiful.... EDFs!!
The metal housing is as per the whole range of Freewing "SMF" EDF housings. They are very thin alloy, but very strong. No welding to be seen, but lots that would have had to have been welded - I am pretty sure, as the housing surface is machined 'spun'.
The motors - well they look to be HET, and you can see they are high quality just by looking at the machining and fit of things.

A straight drop in fit, so that makes things SUPER EASY!

I changed the stock HobbyWing 80A ESC's to HobbyKING Red Brick 125A Opto ESCs. They weighed more - which I guess 125A versus 80A has to anyway! There are basically a lot more FET's in it - they tend to just parallel up more and more, to get higher Current capability. So this need an extra "FET board" stacked into it.
But they fit the wiring/ESC channel perfectly! The HobbyWing 80A are smaller and Freewing just put them in 'flopping around' in that large area! Which isn't really a big problem, but for the Red Bricks I made simple 'frames' from balsa wood to keep them in a fixed position.

A bit of soldering here and there and it was all done....
Then some 'only one single ESC connected' programming, to be sure they were all set up correctly.....
I set them for a ONE SECOND 'slow' startup, just to prevent the ability to go to from '0 to 100' super fast and sounding a bit silly to be able to do so.
On my LX A-10 I have a 5 second slow!! That sounds good, but it is a bit much for an EDF MODEL jet.... though simulates a jet engine, turbine, more correctly.

Running the EDFs up they are like sewing machines!! So super smooth and nothing like the Freewing Outrunners, which are mostly noisy. You can tell these are high quality motors.....
Last edited by PeterVRC; Dec 13, 2018 at 05:05 PM.

Quick Reply
Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Product Freewing twin 80mm F-14 Tomcat Alpha.MotionRC Foamy EDFs 11578 Yesterday 07:06 PM