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Oct 11, 2021, 09:44 AM
UC/RC Flyer
Okay I was able to find the tubing we need for the wings to replace the wood dowels, the stuff is seamless aluminum 5052-0AMS 4070, OD 0.375 Wall is .035 it’s manufactured in Chandler Arizona,good Old USA. Each piece is 16 inches long and you will need 4 pieces, you get it in a 12 foot piece, if you order it from Aircraft spruce or WagAero. you might be able to find a place that sells it as per cut. I haven’t ordered any per say so I don’t know the price, but at today’s rates the shipping will be pretty high, unless you can find a local shop. I am definitely going the aluminum tube route, weight it’s about the same as the wood dowel. I plan on plugging the ends with wood.
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Oct 12, 2021, 09:03 AM
UC/RC Flyer
Glued in the center section, used T-88 really hard getting it all centered up and applied the weights used the 3/32 plywood for the flooring, and reinforced the aluminum tube mounts. The plan called to box in the the mounts, front and rear, but I only got enough material to do the front tube, did a little modification to pour in the box with T-88. Then drill the assembly to machine screw into a 3/32 fuselage blind mount. The plan calls out in four places, but I added two more in the center rib at the rear tube. That area on the rear seems weak, for engineering when Bills wing failed it was the rear mounts that failed first, I could be wrong about that, but it sure looked like it, the Windscreen stayed with the wing. Been studying the fuselage plans, after I get the left wing built, boxing in the front spar right now only have enough clamps to do three a day. Let it cure 24 hours using Sig bond, got to order the Aluminum wing tubes, seems to be a shortage of manufacturing seamless tubing, brain storming on how I will attach it to the plywood ribs, probably will use 1/4 ply in a sandwich on the inside ply rib, it controls the wing die hedrill, that will have to be adjusted on pre assembly prior to covering.
Oct 14, 2021, 10:52 AM
UC/RC Flyer
Well got that left wing off the building board, and started boxing in the spar, the center came out not bad placed it on my glass and it’s flat, lots of small parts in that assembly, also started the right fuselage side, realized the fuselage parts are different from left to right, planning on the right side crew door, nothing fits over the plan it’s all off just a little,Plan possibly shrunk it’s old and a little faded. A lot of center section detail is on the fuselage layout. Several parts are not identified and reinforced with ply on the inside. Calling for Balsa.I think really thin ply would be stronger and lighter, compaired to the 1/4 inch Balsa.
Oct 16, 2021, 08:00 PM
UC/RC Flyer
Working up,the left fuselage assembly will gusset the glue points, for reinforcement the rear window framing will have to be shim into,place, lots of gap in that assembly. The window plastic acetate was trash, I might try Hobby Lobby, all the hobby shops are shut down that had plane stuff, mostly cars and due buggy’s. And ARFs. Very little building material to chose from. hobby Lobby has a fair selection but it’s a craft store, they carry K&S engineering, and ply, very few pieces of Balsa, and spruce.
Oct 16, 2021, 11:33 PM
Registered User
Arthur, I have been buying window plastic through Sig. they have large sheets. Not sure if Roys Hobby in HEB area carries. I know its not close though
Oct 17, 2021, 12:11 PM
UC/RC Flyer
Rag wing Roy’s closed for good last week, I knew Pat and Roy when the shop was open, Roy was a Flight Engineer on the 727 at ?American, Pat his wife ran the shop, I don’t really think Pat liked the guy that bought the shop, and it possibly changed hands a second time I traded their 30 years, ya I will order from Sig from now on, and wood from Balsa USA shipping And driving to Roy’s will be about the same, fuel wise. I did find a piece of heavy acetate I think enough to do the side windows, really looking to do a scale Windscreen, how are things in the Woodlands, years ago I flew my Champ at Goodyear, but I think it’s closed now!
Oct 17, 2021, 12:18 PM
UC/RC Flyer
It’s Sunday kinda laying off today on the AA Industries Champ , letting everything dry, got a few other things I am doing, need to clean things up a little,and put some tools away. Kinda need a day off.
Oct 20, 2021, 04:20 PM
UC/RC Flyer
Well got the left wing spar boxed in and started the right side of the fuselage, looking at the belly drawing I can see how a guy could make the mistake of building two sides the same. I am doing the door reinforcement. Hope this works out doing it back wards, it’s getting a little confusing!
Oct 24, 2021, 09:09 AM
UC/RC Flyer
I got the door frame installed and the landing gear mount in place, decided to use Spruce that I had left over from another project. That mount area around the door will also support the right wing mounts, I think the only way to do that is connecting it to the landing gear mounts. And using dowel to connect the firewall to the panel former that was laminated in two pieces, just like the firewall, using a twin cylinder OS four cycle, so the engine mount box might be eliminated. Looks like two degrees up and two degrees right off the engine bulkhead. I am thinking I can adjust that using the four wood dowel rods.
Oct 25, 2021, 03:23 PM
UC/RC Flyer
Well I got the door jam framed in, and reinforced it using 1/64th ply. The design for the engine mount had me really concerned, had to thank Mucksmear for his suggestion, I ended up using basswood from Balsa USA epoxying it to the original Balsa 1/4 inch square that ran, the full airframe. The door and top from the instrument panel to the firewall is also reinforced. With the basswood. Seriously thinking about using the basswood to frame up the door assembly.
Oct 26, 2021, 04:18 AM
UC/RC Flyer
I think I will take some card stock and pre fit the fuselage former and maybe the firewall. Before I cut into the plywood. My landing gear mod and the improvements to the firewall, my 120 OS Max has a engine mount in the kit, so building up the engine box. The mount is about the same size as the box, but just a tad shorter, I think I can use spacers, or rubber vibration dampeners. The engine in four cycle is really a very smooth runner. And fairly quiet compaired to the gas versions. My weight might be an issue for the 120, I also have a 300. OS Max four cycle I’ve never taken out of the box. I really don’t feel it will fit in the Champ Cowl. It’s pretty wide compaired to my 120, and almost three times the power! Having fun had a great birthday on Sunday. Back to to the old grind.
Oct 26, 2021, 08:43 AM
UC/RC Flyer
I thought I would share this, several guys have been complaining about the soft Balsa sticks. And there is a way to harden them up. When I was a kid I was into U Control and Ambrode glue and I think Sig also had a product like it, Hester Sigafuse, owned sig and I was growing up. Around Mc Cord AFB in Washington. An Air Force Sgt. And I were good friends and thought me some tricks by thinning Ambrode with Acetone to seal and put some strength into soft Balsa. Hester had the same method using Sig Bond by thinning it and coating it on the soft Balsa. Letting it dry over nite, and glue up the frame work. The thinned Sig Bond soaks into the Balsa and really makes a strong bond.
Oct 28, 2021, 07:18 AM
UC/RC Flyer
I’ve gotten both fuselage sides built up and started the vertical and rudder assembly, a few parts that long rudder part that was suppose to be laminated in two pieces. Only could find one. It was diecut and crushed so I made a mate to it the other four parts were their, that made up the trailing edge of the rudder, They are set on the plan and glue is drying. I also attached the rudder hinge piece, it’s nice and hard Balsa, best piece I’ve found, one fourty inch piece and enough to build the vertical and rudder. Not much to spare, but enough to do that assembly,
Oct 28, 2021, 07:28 AM
UC/RC Flyer
I am thinking to use Balsa rite, has any Buddy used that product? Mixing it with thinned Sig Bond or thinned two part Epoxy to fill in the crushed die parts that I laminated, I hope that will work to have better results sanding, starting with 300 to shape and 320 to 400 to finish. I will coat with Nitrate dope. And use sticks it, prior to covering. Sig has cover rite and Polyfibre has the really lite glider fabric. Also using heavy silk on the control surfaces. All this is way down the line, but worth the thought, if ya know what I mean!
Nov 02, 2021, 08:05 PM
Registered User
I've been lurking! In lieu of soaking punky wood with glue can you just use the parts as patterns to make new ones from good wood? Frame your door in balsa. I would rather save the bass for other duties. Bass is awesome wood! To me, it smells like baking bread when cut with table saw!

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