Building Mark Rittinger Python -- Washout Question - RC Groups
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Mar 06, 2002, 05:14 PM
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Building Mark Rittinger Python -- Washout Question

I am begginning to build the Python and I was going over the plans and questioned "washout". I know that it is a twist in the wing, but what I am really after is how to use the washout guides in the plan. Do I just cut them out and lay them under the solid bottom wing then build on top?

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Mar 07, 2002, 09:27 AM
Gravity sucks.
mrittinger's Avatar
They taper form 1/8" tall at the tip to zero at the wing root.Same with the one that goes from the trailing edge to the leading edge a the tip.Glue them together in the corner.Make only one guide, you can flip it over to the other side when you get under the wing when glueing the top sheet on, remove from under wing when sheeted.They do not stay on the wing.You'll see how putting the top sheet on really makes the wing stiff, and locks in the washout.

Mar 07, 2002, 09:30 AM
Registered User
Mar 07, 2002, 09:52 AM
I fly, therefore I crash
I'm just waiting on the receiver so I can go and fly my Python. I did a few things differently when building mine. The washout guide -which, I believe, decreases the angle of attack at the tips making the plane less susceptible to stall, though I may be corrected on this- I made from 1/8th scrap cut in the triangular shape found on the plan where the two guides meet. I placed this under the rear of each wing when I glued the skins on. Again, there are no test flights yet, but the washout is visible.
Also, for the top hatch, instead of using a bolt to hold it down, I used a rare earth magnet which attaches to a small piece of metal, and at the rear, a carbon fiber rod sits through a hole in F3. This makes getting to the battery easy. The rear, bottom hatch has a hole in it where the receiver antenna will slide through, and the hatch is simply taped on.
For the canopy, I cut out a piece of a soda bottle and hit it with a hairdryer until it formed the shape I wanted.
I don't have any pics to post yet and after the first flight, if there are any problems with these modifications, I'll be sure to let you know.
BTW, thanks Mark for your help in this building process!
Mar 07, 2002, 12:06 PM
Gravity sucks.
mrittinger's Avatar
Not a problem guys, I like to see them work and fly well....

Keep me posted as to how it goes!

Mar 07, 2002, 12:22 PM
Registered User

aileron connection

I emailed you earlier today about how the aileron connections work, I think I understand but I was wondering if anybody else out there has a better picture of the setup. Seeing as how this is an important step I don't want to get it wrong.

My understanding: bend a piece of 1/16th wire 90 degrees at one end, place through aluminum tube, glue tube(which goes from ~R2 to ~R3, no bend in tube) onto the bottom sheet. Bend wire at 90 degree again to conform with the bottom wing leaving the other end vertical to the bottom wing. Glue wire at aileron end onto the aileron. Make hinge out of monokote for aileron? Do I glue the wire into the tube?

Sorry for all the questions on this one little part!
Mar 07, 2002, 10:29 PM
I fly, therefore I crash
It sounds like you've got it. Do NOT glue the wire into the tube. The tube acts as a guide for the wire to move. I used Dubro EZ aileron linkages, and they were E -Z.
I did a search for the over and under monocote hinge technique but couldn't find it. I made my hinges by cutting rectangular pieces of my covering, about 1" x 1.5" or so and made sure to flex the aileron and ironed on the hinges alternating top and bottom. Pictures do this greater justice. The alternative is to simply use sig easy hinges and glue them in.
Mar 08, 2002, 06:34 AM
Registered User
Thanks for the info, as of right now I am not that far yet but wanted to get a heads up. Right now I am trying to get the motor mounted at 3 deg. down and 2 degree right. I assume you use triangle stock and cut the angles into it then glue it on the mount, sanding away whats needed to get the best motor fit.

Thanks for all he help.
Mar 08, 2002, 07:17 AM
AndyKunz's Avatar
I have one standard nylon hinge at about 75% of aileron span, and use the torque tube as the other hinge point. The ailerons were sheeted first (before hinge was installed), then the wing itself.

As part of the finish I make some pieces which only cover part of the hinge line gap. It doesn't seem to affect operation at all.

You can see some photos at then click on "Model Airplanes"

Last edited by AndyKunz; Sep 08, 2014 at 03:37 PM. Reason: Correct link
Mar 08, 2002, 08:15 AM
I fly, therefore I crash
For the motor mount, I fitted my s400 into the mount, then positioned the mount so the motor had the appropriate angle and held it there while I glued. Then, I put the triangle stock up against the motor and glued the wood to the motor mount and to the fuse sides, sanding all around it as best I could afterwards. Sanding really can add some nice curves to the plane.
When I glue moving parts that will have high torque or pull, such as the aileron linkages or the control horns, I make sure there is lots to glue -the control horns always fit into slots I've cut, and I use epoxy instead of CA or Aliphatic resin. After my first control horn got ripped out of my Tiny, I made sure to use only epoxy.
Mar 08, 2002, 11:37 AM
Gravity sucks.
mrittinger's Avatar
Whatever works!
DO NOT glue the wire into the aileron when you build the wing.You need to be able to cut the aileron off the wing,cover it, hinge it, then install it.Glue it on when you install the aileron.

Ask aroundm theres plenty of guys that have built it that will help.

The Down/right isn't hyper critical.It helps to keep it from climbing when the power is on.

Good Luck!

See you all in Toledo!

Mar 10, 2002, 03:01 PM
Happy happy, joy joy!
Goge's Avatar
I was going to give one of these a shot too, however- I can't seem to find what the fuse thickness is. Looks like the doublers are 1/16th, but the actual fuse thickness is escaping me. I must have passed it over on the plan or something. Help?