I've decided to buy a phoenix 2.4 glider as a knock around as my trusty Heron is getting pretty beat up and they aren't very affordable nowadays.. So I go on hobbyking's website and was happy to see the volantec 2.4 phoenix for $139.00.. I put it in my cart and go to check out.. Cheapest shipping (from hong kong) was $100.00!!!.. I checked ebay and can't find one there for a decent price either.. Any suggestions on where to pick one of these up?

Banggood

Yep, Banggood has the 2400 and the 2000 in stock. Not sure what shipping is tho for you to Zambia though.

I have both the 2400 and the 2000. Both fly good but the 2400 is way under powered. Much prefer the 2000 and it get alot more airtime.

Thanks, I ordered from bangood.. First order w/ them so got some discounts. I got the 2.4 but will be looking for a replacement motor/prop for more performance. Any drop in replacement motors to recommend? I don't need unlimited vertical but close to it would be nice. Anyone know if a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 3542-1000kv would fit? That's what I have in my heron and it's a vast improvement over the stock PNP motor on 3s 2200

The stock engine for the 2400 is completely sufficient. You should only use it with another ESC on 4S battery ...

I'm thinking of trying some 12x6 blades I have with the stock motor and 3s 2200... Good news, I my order has shipped!.. expected arrival date January 21st.. LOL... I don't need a pure vertical climb but I don't trust that motor/esc on 12x8 blades as I believe it's the 1050KV motor and not the 850KV.. Not sure I want to try 4s either.. Watched a youtube vid of a guy on 4s with 12x8 blades and smoke came out of motor and it failed

Not exactly sure why you need super power....screenshot from my first autotakeoff (I has already flown a few miles before the autotakeoff) with 3S Liion (notice voltage droop to 11.3V) stock motor/prop and I had throttle limited to 80% to keep current draw below 25A (Liion I used were good only for 20A continuous/40A burst)...12-13f/s climb = 780ft/min....it will climb at > 1000ft/min with a Lipo and no throttle llimit, I am sure...

complete video:

Phoenix 2400 maiden flight with ArduPilot (2 min 33 sec)

I fly in a very narrow corridor, a golf course fairway in our backyard.. It's lined by 100' high trees on both sides.. I need to get up and above those trees quickly, especially in a crosswind situation. This is why I bought a more powerful motor for my multiplex heron. This is not my primary flying location but I can't fly hotliners on the golfcourse, someone would call the cops.

Originally Posted by tic

I'm thinking of trying some 12x6 blades I have with the stock motor and 3s 2200... Good news, I my order has shipped!.. expected arrival date January 21st.. LOL... I don't need a pure vertical climb but I don't trust that motor/esc on 12x8 blades as I believe it's the 1050KV motor and not the 850KV.. Not sure I want to try 4s either.. Watched a youtube vid of a guy on 4s with 12x8 blades and smoke came out of motor and it failed

Just dont put bigger blades on the stock prop holder, its plastic, buy a Aero-naut or Graupner aluminum one to be safe.

Meh, I'll risk it.. I have a MPX heron w/ upgraded motor and blades still using the plastic prop holder for hundreds of flights w/ no issues.. I appreciate the warning though, no doubt metal would be safer

Originally Posted by tic

Meh, I'll risk it.. I have a MPX heron w/ upgraded motor and blades still using the plastic prop holder for hundreds of flights w/ no issues.. I appreciate the warning though, no doubt metal would be safer

The motor in the original phoenix 1600 would burn out after a few flights - the motors they use now are a lot better - but I would still be wary about using bigger props (especially if you're running a 4 cell battery). Check the motor on landing - if the motor is too hot to touch & the windings are getting darker - then it's only a matter of time

Only going to use 3s.. Has anyone here used 12x6 blades instead of 10x6 on 3s?

Hi there Tic. I purchased my P2400 as the kit version and at the same time ordered the volantex 850 version of the motor.
I fitted 11x6 prop to the original plastic , and use 3S 40C to avoid the voltage drop when applying full throttle. Absolutely no problems. Climb can be close to vertical if you want. But I only use the motor briefly, maybe ten seconds to get to 150 feet or so, then glide around looking for thermals.
In my view, this is a superior glider to the P2000. I have both, and the original P1600 as well. The P2400 is my go to plane for those lazy afternoons.
Tic as you see, I live in UK, and far fewer thermals than you have.
I have managed quite a few flights of over 2 hours, with a maximum of 4m30secs total motor time using Turnigy 2200 3S 40-50C Lipo.
You can play around with the CoG anywhere between 90 and 93 mm back from the leading edge on a light breezy day. I move it a wee bit further forward to 88-90 in a stronger breeze.
You'll not be disappointed with yours when it arrives, (if it has been well packaged).
I also ordered some spare, wing clip plastic sets from Banggood. The ones in the wings are ok, BUT the parts in the fuselage seem to be more prone to breaking off if you have a heavy landing, or catch a wing. Not the fault of the plane, that's more of a pilot issue!!!!!
I fly mainly from a hillside, with some scrubby, thorny brambles on my landing area. I have used clear packaging tape on the leading edges to protect them.
I did some other mods with the servos to get the arms and control horns above the wing surfacessurfaces.
After a few flights, I then repositioned the tail feather servos, out of their pockets in the fuse, into the fin and the stab, to prevent the linkages hooking in the grass. Now the underside is totally clear, and no more damaged servos.
You're going to love this plane, especially if you use it as glider.
Happy landings
Go With the Flow
Bruce

Hey there P2400 Guys.
Seems to be a number of pilots here, who don't seem to realise that they can move the battery backwards or forwards to achieve whatever CoG they prefer to fly with.
Remember, this is supposed to be a GLIDER, and that means it needs to be as light as you can get it for optimum gliding.
The ideal way to approach the individual's preferred CoG is to start on your work bench, with your CoG balancer of choice. Mine is two chopsticks mounted vertically into a block of wood, but anything similar that serves the purpose will do.
You set your glider on the ends of the "chopsticks" at the factory CoG marks, and make sure you have a cardboard box or similar under the nose and another one under the tail to stop the plane from sliding off and crashing to the floor. Leave about 1cm clear between the boxes and the underside of the glider. This then gives you a seesaw effect once you fit your preferred lipo (and and anything else that you feel like fitting).

For all this to work properly, you'll need a notebook and a marker pen, because you'll want to be able to mark your prefernces, for when you get to the flying field.
Lets begin on our workbench.
Have the plane completely fitted out, with propellor fitted and ready to fly. Decide which Lipo size you will use.
Open the canopy. set the plane with its CoG marks on the chopsticks, and you will notice that it is resting on its tail, and the nose tilted up. (Tail heavy). Now place your lipo fully forward on the lipo tray DO NOT CONNECT IT!
Hopefully, this makes the plane tilt forward onto its box under the nose. (It is now Nose heavy). Check that the CoG marks are still resting on the chopsticks.

Now move the Lipo rearwards a centimeter at a time until the plane is seesawing and almost balanced, but almost, or gently touching the Tail box. Now fit the canopy on, and spread the folding prop out to flying position.
If the plane is still resting on its tail, the lipo is just a touch too far back. Alternatively, if the plane is now resting on its nose then the lipo is just slightly too far forward. Open the canopy, and move the lipo half a centimeter to try to find that sweet spot of nose and tail clear of their rest boxes, with the canopy in place.
Once you have it balanced seesaw style, you need to mark the location of the front of the lipo onto the battry tray.
This means that when you get to the field, if you strap the lipo in that same position, you will be able to fly on the factory CoG for your maiden flight.
After a few flights to get the feel of the plane, you might want to experiment, by shifting the lipo rearwards a centimeter, and do a few more flights like that. When you find a flying sweet spot, make note of the weather, strength of breeze, sunny, or overcast, and mark the location of the lipo onto the tray.

All of the above will enable you to fly with the CoG consistently where you want it for the particular day.
I can also recommend, that anyone interested in fine tuning their glider, should check out Paul Naton tuning a Radiaan on YouTube.
Happy landings
Bruce

Hello

I think that one of the big challenges when building an FPV platform with this glider is to avoid any drag (Caused by cameras, antennas ...), and this is not easy.

Can you share what worked best for you ?
And where did you put the airspeed sensor ?


Thank you