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Sep 15, 2021, 10:23 AM
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My Tiny Hawk Freestyle II ExpressLRS Mod


Well I ordered and finally received my ExpressLRS gear, a JR TX Module, Slim TX Module, and 2 x EP2 and 1 x EP1 receivers.

First, these receivers are really really tiny, especially the EP2 as they have no external antenna.

So I've been very tired of the failsafes, and short distance I can fly with the SPI receiver, the standard video setup range exceeds the RX range, which is, well wrong.

So took apart my Tinyhawk, removed the rear 3-pin motor connectors (unused), removal wasn't hard, just grab them and wiggle them on the short axis. This makes room for me to hide the EP2 between the carbon top plate and the mainboard.

I used TX1, RX1 on the FC, and the GND and +5 on the SBUS connector. Note there is no +5 until a battery is connected.

Soldered it up using silicon wiring, did the board first and cut all the wires to the same length as they exited and soldered to the EP2.

Put it all back together and took it for a test flight, or 3.... wow, what a difference, I hadn't configured my OSD with LQ and RSSI dbm and only had RSSI showing so not sure what the actual link quality was, however I was able to double my distance so far, no failsafes and video held up pretty good, except when the quad was left side to my goggles, as the antenna is on the right side, and short so mostly blocked by the battery (next hack attack).

I've got OSD all setup with LQ and RSSI dbm now so will push further...

Update, I was able to go 325 Meters max and the video was breaking up to much to keep going. Using the built in SPI receiver I could only get 80 to 90 Meters before failsafe. An awesome improvement.


Pictures;

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Last edited by dopplet; Sep 15, 2021 at 09:09 PM.
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Sep 15, 2021, 10:54 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cryptovariable
Hi all.

I made a few mods to my TH FS-II that I figured I would share.

Upon taking the quad apart to solder on an XT-30 connector and add a 900Mhz R9mm RX, I noticed that the whole FC board would look better (VTX antenna placement) and make more sense (wiring-wise) if it was turned around 180. After doing this, I had to rotate the gyro direction and remap the motors in Betaflight. I also read that running the motors with reverse rotation is aerodynamically better on smaller quads, so I did that as well (and swapped the props around). I also moved the battery strap more aft to allow more airflow to the top of the VTX.

I installed JESC 96Khz (w/ reverse rotation) and BF 4.2 (erasing and resetting everything to the BF defaults). I enabled bi-directional D-shot and am running 8K/4K with D-shot 300 as recommend. I followed a guide (I think on Oscar Liang's site) about setting up the notch filters, and used the factory PID settings from Emax's website. I eyeballed the the expo and slid some sliders here and there. I am at 17% CPU utilization. I also disabled ADC filtering in OpenTx, but I guess everyone knows to do that.

All I can say is WOW. This thing flies like a freakin' simulator. It is SO locked in it doesn't even seem real. My motors come back basically ambient temperature, and I am getting excellent battery life (I assume because of the JESC 96Khz). I can't imagine what I could even tweak in BF to try and make this fly better.

I wish I could say I knew what I was doing, but I don't. I just got lucky I guess. I can share my BF settings if anyone wants to try the same reverse setup.

Anyway, hope someone finds this interesting.

:-)

Hey! I replicated all your settings I believe (but on 46khz instead of 96), following the same tutorials from oscarliang, and for some reason I can two ESC beeping sequence on start up. So three beeps, then three beeps again, then two. Any idea where that could come from? It flies no problem.

Or does anyone else know why my ESC Is doing the beeping sequence twice?

And I'm getting more propwash than before (but that's with Oscar's toothpick preset).
Sep 22, 2021, 09:38 PM
Born to lose-live to win!!
Murdock80's Avatar
Question if someone could give advise. I had my tinyhawk setup on betaflight and rocking with my Qx7 set perfect. I put a 2s while waitng for my 1s to charge. For some stupid reason i didnt change my rates because i was flying line of site. Little erratic so i set it down (not gently). So i unplug and set it aside until i remembered the rate set in the goggles. I had flipped a few times earlier and decided to turn on turtle mode. I plug in with the same usb cord and now the laptop will not recognize the quad. The quad powers up under usb power but wont connect like it did before? Any thoughts would be appreciated and sorry for the long winded description..
Sep 22, 2021, 11:31 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murdock80
Question if someone could give advise. I had my tinyhawk setup on betaflight and rocking with my Qx7 set perfect. I put a 2s while waitng for my 1s to charge. For some stupid reason i didnt change my rates because i was flying line of site. Little erratic so i set it down (not gently). So i unplug and set it aside until i remembered the rate set in the goggles. I had flipped a few times earlier and decided to turn on turtle mode. I plug in with the same usb cord and now the laptop will not recognize the quad. The quad powers up under usb power but wont connect like it did before? Any thoughts would be appreciated and sorry for the long winded description..
Try again. Then again. Then again until it works. All flight controllers seem to do this from time to time. Tiny hawks being one of the worst in my experience. Also try restarting your computer or wiggling the usb plug.
Sep 23, 2021, 08:53 PM
Born to lose-live to win!!
Murdock80's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostinjdm
Try again. Then again. Then again until it works. All flight controllers seem to do this from time to time. Tiny hawks being one of the worst in my experience. Also try restarting your computer or wiggling the usb plug.
Thanks man, ive rebooted the laptop. Used another laptop. Tried different cables. Wiggled waggled and even finappled. Nothing seems to work but i'll try. Thanks for the input bud.
Oct 03, 2021, 01:59 PM
Registered User
I have a pile of these batteries https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...ck-w-xt30.html so I swapped the connector to XT-30 so I can use them. These batteries are a little heavy but seems to fly fine.

Did I make a mistake doing this or will these basically be OK?
Oct 10, 2021, 07:05 PM
Registered User
I much prefer flying my Freestyle in LOS. Currently I have a drinking straw ziptied to the frame to help with orientation but I am looking for something more elegant.

Has anyone tried adding LEDs to the frame? Would appreciate some ideas or advice. Thanks.
Oct 11, 2021, 04:41 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopatop
I have a pile of these batteries https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...ck-w-xt30.html so I swapped the connector to XT-30 so I can use them. These batteries are a little heavy but seems to fly fine.

Did I make a mistake doing this or will these basically be OK?
Certainly nothing wrong with these batteries. Yes, they are a bit heavy in comparison - I have 33.5 g batteries that nominally have 600mah on HV -, but the Freestyle can be flown with such relatively heavy batteries, too, and/or even with HD cams mounted on top, and still is a fun-to-fly quad. And if the Turnigy actually deliver their nominal C rating, that should be sufficient if you are not after crazy acrobatics.
Oct 11, 2021, 06:55 AM
Registered User
Thanks!
Oct 12, 2021, 02:41 PM
Registered User
Does anyone know what the tape used to secure the motor wires to the frame is? I want to use it to mount some LEDs to the frame arm and I'm wondering if I will be able to re-use it if I rewrap it or if I need some more. Thanks.
Oct 12, 2021, 03:11 PM
Registered User
I use harness tape, after loosing 5 tinyhawk motors to branches pulling on the wires, I tape motor all the way to the inside as far as I can go. Works great, is not reusable, you have to cut it off to get back in there. It's $12 CAD for two 1/2" rolls from AMZ. Description is this "Black Harness Tape, 2 Rolls 0.6 Inch Wide 15m Long High Temperature Resistance Electrical Tape Fabric Tape"

And, I haven't lost a motor again.....

Andrew


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopatop
Does anyone know what the tape used to secure the motor wires to the frame is? I want to use it to mount some LEDs to the frame arm and I'm wondering if I will be able to re-use it if I rewrap it or if I need some more. Thanks.
Oct 12, 2021, 03:14 PM
Registered User
Nice thanks, I found some 9mm stuff which looks like it will do the job.
Oct 12, 2021, 03:27 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopatop
Does anyone know what the tape used to secure the motor wires to the frame is? I want to use it to mount some LEDs to the frame arm and I'm wondering if I will be able to re-use it if I rewrap it or if I need some more. Thanks.
"Emax tape". Doesn't seem to be an official Emax product, but is used on many of their RTF quads. Exists in at least two widths. I bought a roll here, but other shops might also have it.

[5,00]Insulating Tape 30m Black For Brushless Motor ESC RC Drone FPV Racing Multi Rotor RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and Robot on banggood
https://banggood.app.link/uoTcrp4Qikb
Oct 12, 2021, 03:32 PM
Registered User
Hey,

I have a tinyhawk 2 amd on 1cell the hover throttle is very high, using a radiomaster 16xs does anyone know how to chamge that it never use to be mike that on my taranis

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Oct 12, 2021, 05:21 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Euwan
Hey,

I have a tinyhawk 2 amd on 1cell the hover throttle is very high, using a radiomaster 16xs does anyone know how to chamge that it never use to be mike that on my taranis

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
check your rate and pid profiles in betaflight. The 1s profile may have a throttle curve set up.


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