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Oct 17, 2018, 07:30 PM
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Twisted Hobbys / VA Models - Nieuport 17

Twisted Hobbys / VA Models
Nieuport 17
Product Description

The 40" EPP full fuse Nieuport 17 was designed to give the feel of flying the real scale model and is a great sport flyer for parks and larger fields. Realistic and dynamic flight characteristics that will be appreciate by beginners as well as advanced pilots. It has a wide speed range and pleasant flying behavior. The Nieuport 17 is a great EPP sports flier with outstanding scale looks.

CNC / Laser manufacturing, highest quality EPP foam and superb printing yield a best in class airframe. Semi prefabbed construction of fuse speeds the building process. Most of the air-frame is constructed from EPP with special attention given to the detailed graphics and scale accessories.
Model Spec’s:

Wing Span = 40”
Length = 31”
AUW = 17 - 21 oz. (depending on setup)

Recommended Required Electronics:

50-72g Out Runner Brush-less Motor (200 - 300 Watts)
18-30A ESC
(4) 9g - 14g Servos
3s 850 to 1350mah Lipo Battery
10x3.8 - 10x4.7 SF Prop

For Sale now on the Twisted Hobbys' Website!

Nieuport 17 Product Link

Use the link above for access videos, manual, additional model specs and of course to purchase
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Oct 17, 2018, 07:30 PM
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This is a nicely detailed kit from VA-Models, being distributed by Twisted Hobbys. The fuselage has a fair amount of the construction already done, which helps a lot in keeping the over all build time to a minimum. Lots of times the EPP "scale" planes look good at a distance, this model looks great up close..!! Hard to believe that it an EPP foamie. They did an outstanding job adding in all the little bits of scale hardware, high quality-high resolution printed scale graphics and clever building techniques. If you are wanting to add your own optional details, like a pilot or something... this is a 1:8 scale aircraft.

Certainly not as easy or quick to build as a Crack Yak, but still simple enough novice builder, while still providing opportunity for the more experienced builder to really knock this one out of the part with additional details. Most of the construction is done with thin and medium CA, this makes for quick construction and a nice solid airframe. It is worth mentioning that there is an included jig to get the upper and lower wings set properly. Lots of times this is a bit of a chore with biplanes. Another hint would be to read thru the manual, fully understand the steps and test fit along the way before putting glue to foam.
Last edited by cdee; Oct 17, 2018 at 08:16 PM.
Oct 17, 2018, 07:32 PM
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reserved for future use
Last edited by cdee; Oct 17, 2018 at 08:28 PM.
Oct 18, 2018, 07:02 AM
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One of my most favorite detailed EPP models to date! Looks amazing Chris.
Oct 19, 2018, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Twisted Realm
One of my most favorite detailed EPP models to date! Looks amazing Chris.
Very nicely detailed model.... full build post upcoming in a day or two.... stay tuned..
Oct 20, 2018, 08:20 AM
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Going to back track for all those interested and re-visit the build process. In the second post there were some very brief and flyby type comments, but over the next couple post we will take a deeper dive in to the building process of the Nieuport 17. In many ways they will parallel the manual, but there will be additional comments and pictures that could be used in conjunction with the manual.... or if choosing the following posts could stand on their own for the build process.... grab a cup of coffee and another favorite beverage and enjoy....
Oct 20, 2018, 08:22 AM
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The Build - Nieuport 17 / Twisted Hobbys - VA Models
Getting Started
  • Nice Organized work space is always a bonus. Helpful to have a surface that you can push pins into, and one that is covered with parchment paper to prevent the glue from sticking to the surface. Wax paper can be used in place of parchment, but I have found the parchment to work better.
  • Take inventory of the Kit - open up the box and have a look at all that is included.
  • Round up all the electronics that will be used. Twisted Hobbys' does most always have very suitable power combos for the models they sell.
  • The Extra bits such as the receiver, transmitter and battery should also be identified at this time. It should be noted that this aircraft has a very short nose and the spec for a 3s/1300 may seem a little big for the model, but with it mounted in the designated area, it provides the necessary ballast for the airframe, and makes for some nice long relaxing flights.
  • Test all the electronics - ALWAYS one of the first things that should be done. If there are any components that are not functioning properly for any reason, now is the time to identify that.
Tail Feathers
  • Start with the elevator and locate the fiberglass strip that will connect the two control surface halves.
  • Rough up the fiberglass strip with some sand paper so the glue will stick better
  • Measure back approx 5mm from the edge of the hinge line and cut a slit that will accommodate the fiberglass strip, make sure it is centered from side to side.
  • Insert the strip into the slot, make sure the elevator is nice and flat on your work surface and secure the two pieces together with thin CA.
  • Set the Elevator aside and locate the rudder and the hinge pieces and long hinge wire.
  • Cut a slit into the edge as shown, location is not super critical, just make approx as shown.
  • Test fit the hinge "assembly" into the slot.
  • Remove the hinge assembly from the slot and separate the pieces so that the leaves of the hinge are loose from each other
  • Re-install the one side back into the slot. Make sure and leave the center line of the hinge knuckle about 1.5mm away from the edge of the foam, this will allow for clearance in a later step so that the rudder can move freely from side to side. Don't glue it in at this time.
The Wings
  • Locate the upper and lower wing halves. Medium CA and Kicker will be used to join them together.
  • Apply a nice amount of Medium CA to one of the mating surfaces, spray the other mating surface with kicker
  • Without waiting carefully and accurately bring the two wing halves together so that the mating surfaces line up. You can look at the leading and trailing edges as reference, it is also helpful to do this on a flat, glue proof surface with the bottom side on the surface. The flatter profile of the bottom wing will help with the alignment process.
  • Repeat the process with the other wing, again alignment is critical, so take your time with that part.
  • Locate the long rectangle shape piece of carbon fiber.
  • With a straight edge cut a slit 5mm deep from wing tip to wing tip (from the bottom side of the wing) that will accommodate the the carbon spar. Location is not super critical, just make is straight and use the leading edge side of the blue part of the emblem as guide.
  • Lay the spar into the slit and make sure that it is flush to just below flush.
  • Make sure the wing in nice and flat on your work surface and secure the spar to the wing by wicking in some thin CA and hitting with Kicker.
  • Two servos are recommended for the ailerons, they will be installed from the bottom side of the upper wing. Make some pockets for them in the approx location shown and deep enough so that they are flush. A good way to do this is to trace around with a thin sharpie, cut the perimeter with a fresh hobby knife to the approx depth of the servo, and then on the interior of that perimeter, cut a hatch pattern to the same depth with your knife that that you have little square block of about 1/8" or so... now these little blocks can be plucked out with some tweezers or small needle nose.
  • Locate the aileron push rods, quick connectors and control horns. The horns for the ailerons are the two that match and are not as "tall" as the others.
  • Install the quick links onto the single sided servo horns on the second to last outside hole.
  • Cut a slit in the aileron control surface so that the horn is in line with the control rod and servo horn.
  • Locate the horn fore and aft such that the hole in the horn is centered over the hinge point of the aileron.
  • Repeat for the other side and secure each of the servos to the wing with a bead of low temperature hot glue around the profile shape of the cut out.
The Servo Bay and Push Rods
  • Locate the three wooden pieces and the Velcro strap for the Servo Tray.
  • Glue the wood pieces together, all the little holes should line up and there should be clearance for the Velcro Strap
  • Flip the wood assembly over, and with medium CA glue the hard side of the Velcro to the channel in the tray assembly. Note that the Velcro should be center from front to back along its length.
  • Test fit the tray into the nose of the airplane. Orientation should be such that the Velcro is underneath the servo tray and the tray itself should be located as far forward as possible.
  • Once you are happy with the fit, secure it in place with some medium CA.
  • Use the servo cut out as a guide, and with a sharp hobby knife, remove the foam on the inside of the servo cut out. Go all the way through.
  • Test fit your servos, it may be that you will have to file the servo cutout a little larger for your servos to fit.
  • Install your servos. They can be installed with output shafts either forward or rearward, it does not matter. If mount the output shaft rearward, it will give a little more clearance around the battery area. For this build the out put shafts are located facing forward.
  • Make sure the wires are clear and not pinched. The secure your servos to the frame with either screws or glue.
  • Locate the push rod guide tube, the z-bend push rods, the quick connector pieces and the double sided servo horns.
  • Trim off one side of the servo horn
  • Attach the quick connectors to the outer most hole in each of the servo horns.
  • Electronically center the servos and attach the horns facing outward.
  • On the right, rudder side cut a slit 30mm long, 30mm from the end of the tail and 20mm away from the elevator saddle.
  • On the left, elevator horn side, cut a slit 30mm long, 30mm from the end of the tail and 15mm away from the elevator saddle.
  • Cut more slits up in the cabin area, just behind the seat and near each of the side wall.
  • Feed the elevator push rod tubing thru the slit on the left (elevator horn side) and feed it thru the right side slot in the cabin.
  • Push it all the way until the tubing is approx 20mm from the end of the fuselage
  • Repeat for the other (Rudder Horn side), remember to feed thru the cabin slit and all the way in so that the end of the plastic is about 20mm from the end of the fuselage like was done with the elevator push rod.
  • It may be necessary to trim the tubing some, again about 20mm from the servo centered servo horn. Do not trim the wire push rod yet at this time, it will be trimmed later once the control surfaces are mounted, this will insure that the rods are not cut too short.
  • Cut a small slit in-between the two servos and feed their cables thru to the other side.
  • Let them hang on this side now until the receiver is installed.
Firewall and Tail Section
  • Button up the upper fire wall area by using med CA and Kicker. Start with lightly masking off the top of the exposed bulkhead area. Spray Kicker onto the inside areas that will come into contact with the bulkheads. Quickly remove the tape and apply med CA to the bulk head contact areas.
  • Slowly wrap the skin onto and along the bulkhead contours.
  • Hold and compress it tight until the CA sets. Just worry about the bulk head area for right now.
  • Once that has set, there should still be a little open seam in the areas between the bulk heads.
  • Hold the seam tight and stitch closed with thin CA and Kicker. Just do a little section at a time so that it seals up night and tight.
  • Locate the firewall and motor mount pieces
  • Spray Kicker onto one side of the round firewall piece.
  • Apply a generous about of med CA to the front of the airframe
  • Quickly join the two pieces together with the round notch being at the 6 o'clock position.
  • Add another bead of med CA along the fuselage sides and firewall
  • Glue the legs onto the main motor mount piece.
  • Attach motor mount assembly to the firewall with the legs fitting into the notches.
  • Locate the elevator
  • Test fit it onto the Saddle area at the rear of the fuselage.
  • Temporarily attach the lower wing with some stick pins or something.
  • Using the lower wing as a guide attach the elevator with come CA making sure that it is parallel with the lower wing. Once the elevator is firmly attached remove the lower wing.
  • Grab the rudder and hold it loosely in position to see if there is a need to remove material to allow clearance for the fiberglass strip that attaches the two sides together.
  • Pinch and glue together the very end of the fuselage, and cut a slot for the mating rudder hinge half.
  • Test fit the rudder with both halves of the hinge and hinge pin installed.
  • Stick the hinge pin all the way thru and into the upper part of the rudder, make sure it is nice and straight. Poke the hinge pin about 40mm deep into the foam, then remove.
  • Locate the small plactic tube that is approx 50mm long and put a mark on it approx 10mm from one end.
  • Press the plastic tube into the hole that was just created with the hinge pin. The end that goes in is the end that does not have the mark nearest to it. Push the pin until the mark you made is at the foam level. There should be approx 40mm of tube buried into the foam. It should be nice and firm and will not require any glue to stay in position.
  • Locate the small wood piece with the single hole on one side. Install the tube from the rudder thru the hole, line up the rudder hinge.
  • Once the rudder is positioned properly secure the wood piece to the top of the elevator surface. DO NOT PUT ANY GLUE ON OR NEAR WHERE THE WHITE TUBE GOES THRU THE WOOD PIECE. This is the upper pivot point and it has to move freely.
  • Test for free movement and then apply a little thin CA to each of the rudder hinge leafs.
  • Locate the two control horns for the tail. The elevator one is the one with the notch, make a slit for it in the elevator at a good location to meet up with where the push-rod will come out of the guide tube.
  • Once happy with its location feed the z-bend thru the hole, install the horn into the slit and glue it in with some thin CA.
  • If you have not already done so, trim back the guide tube far enough to so that it does not get in the way for full elevator deflection.
  • Locate the control horn for the rudder and repeat the same process as was just done with the elevator. Remember to trim the tube if needed and to feed the z-bend thru the the hole in the horn before the final gluing of the horn into the rudder.
Attaching the Wings
  • Locate the lower wing assembly and the fuselage. Test fit the wing to the saddle area in the lower fuselage. It should fit pretty accurately and snug. Verify that with the fit up that it is parallel and square to the rest of the fuselage. Once satisfied make some little marks on the wing for reference where it fits from side to side then remove. Use the Med. CA/Kick method and attach the wing to the position that you just marked. Set aside.
  • Locate the upper wing assembly and the wing struts. Get location dimensions from the manual, mark the strut locations and with a small burr bit on a motor tool, make small pockets to accommodate the strut tabs.
  • Test fit and make sure that the strut is perpendicular to the wing with a small builders square, then secure with thin CA.
  • Repeat the process with the other wing strut.
  • Take the fuselage assembly and position it on your bench so that the lower wing is flat to the building surface and parallel to the direction of flight. Shim up the back of the tail with some small blocks or something to hold the airframe in this position.
  • Next locate the included upper and lower wing jig. It is part of one of the laser cut wood sheets and has other parts cut out of it. Remove all the other parts and seperate the jig from the main wood sheet.
  • Using the lower wing as a guide for initial position attach the jig to the side of the fuselage with some stick pins, tape or small glue tacks. At this time you will also be able to tell if you need to raise or lower the tail for correct level position by using the jig as reference near the leading and trailing edges of the lower wing.
  • Set the upper wing on to the airframe, position it centered from side to side and rest it in the cradle/jig from front to back. Make sure that the incidence of the wing matches the profile of the jig as well.
  • Mark the outboard positions where the wing struts will attach to the bottom of the upper wing. Remove the wing and make some small pockets with a burr bit in a motor tool.
  • Once you are happy with the position of the upper wing, secure the struts to it with thin CA.
  • Next the center supports will be installed. Get the dimensions for the length and position from the manual. Sharpen up one end of each rod and poke thru the upper wing and top of fuselage at the marked positions.
  • Double check that the wing is still straight and true in all directions and secure the center supports to the fuselage and upper wing with some thin CA.
  • Wing rigging is the next step, refer to the manual for the length and end locations of the carbon rounds. The dimensions are not super critical, just make sure that they are located approx as shown in the pictures and adjust as needed so that they touch in the middle where they cross over each other. Once satisfied with everything, double check squareness of the entire airframe and secure the rigging ends with thin CA.
Landing Gear and Tail Rigging
  • Locate the wood pieces for the main gear.
  • With med. CA or epoxy glue the pieces together to make a left and right assembly.
  • Fit the side pieces into the fuselage, locate the rear part of the gear where it meets the wing and make a small pocket for the tab. Dry fit the horizontal piece in-between the side pieces, adjust everything for true. Note that the side pieces do taper out a little from the fuselage down to the where the wheels will mount. Secure the whole assembly together and to the fuselage and lower wing.
  • Install the axle wire just above the horizontal landing gear member. Make sure it is centered, then glue with med. CA.
  • Locate the wheels and keepers and install them on to the axle. Note, if you bevel the end of the axle a little, the keepers will slide on more easily. Also a small drop of Welder Glue on the keeper once installed will keep if from working loose, just make sure that the glue is only between the axle and keeper and does not get into the area where the wheel itself has to spin freely.
  • Locate the wooden tail skid and a small length of wire.
  • Install the tail skid near the end of the fuselage on the bottom side, just forward of the rudder. Cut some pockets as needed, then fit the skid into the pockets and secure with thin CA.
  • Bend the small piece of wire with some needle nose pliers so that it is in a shape that will attach to the skid and protect the skid from wearing on any abrasive surfaces that maybe flown from. Attach the bent wire to the skid with med. CA.
  • The remaining length of the carbon rods will be used for elevator rigging/bracing. Attach them so that the provide support between the fuselage and under side of the elevator.
  • Make sure the elevator is nice and parallel to the wings, then secure the braces at each end with some thin CA.
Motor - Cowling - Scale Details
  • Locate the plastic nose cowling and trim it with a pair of around the base where it is marked from the factory.
  • With a FRESH hobby knife blade "score" around the inside opening, this will allow for the scrap to peel away with a super nice clean edge. Sand a little if needed.
  • Locate the mock wood motor piece and test fit. If you want to paint it black or something, do that now before gluing into place.
  • Assemble the guns and paint them black as well.
  • Locate the motor and ESC. Mount the motor with as many stand-offs as will be allowed for your style motor. While doing this process, also consider and test fit the cowling. It may be that you will have to enlarge the center hole a little to clear the motor bell housing. The key here is to mount the motor as far forward as possible. If needed there is about 1/2 inch or so of adjustment for the cowling as well. Again mount everything as far forward as allowed for you combination of motor and ESC.
  • Locate the instrument panel and glue into position. Note that it does not have an exact position, just set it in approx as shown in an area where the edges meet up nicely with the inside walls of the cabin space.
  • Locate the foam piece that is used for the battery hatch. Bevel and notch the front edge as needed for a nice flush fit with the sides of the fuselage.
  • Locate the three little wood pieces that are used for the latch. Assemble the two external pieces and a short wire rod with epoxy or med. CA, then mark the position shown in the manual to poke the wire rod thru the hatch and then glue on the internal wood piece so that it is clocked at the same timing as the external piece. Make sure that when you are gluing it that you only glue the rod to the wood, the whole assembly needs to be able to twist in the foam.
  • Install the hatch and engage the latch. make sure everything is flush again with the sides of the fuselage, then take the long skinny piece of wood and glue it in place. This piece serves as a lip to keep the front part of the hatch in place.
  • Feed the motor wires thru the firewall and into the electronics-battery bay.
  • Mount the ESC against the firewall on the inside and attach the motor wires. Double check motor direction and swap two wires around if needed.
  • Attach the guns to the airframe. The gun with the tripod goes on the top of the upper wing and the other one goes directly in front of the pilot between the center wing brace rods.
  • Attach the nose cowling with the two little provided wood screws. As mentioned in an earlier step, position (and trim center wood mock motor area) as far forward as possible.
  • Install a receiver inside the battery bay area and secure all the wires so that they are not going to get chaffed by the movement of the servo arms and push rods.
  • For an added touch find a 1/8 scale WWI pilot and mount him in the cabin area.
  • Balance a prop
  • Refer to the assembly manual for CG position and control throws and check all control directions.
Last edited by cdee; Oct 28, 2018 at 10:30 AM.
Oct 29, 2018, 07:56 AM
Twisted Realm's Avatar
Your builds are epic Chris. Love all you have done with this bird!
Oct 31, 2018, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Twisted Realm
Your builds are epic Chris. Love all you have done with this bird!
thank you much... this is not your average epp foamie. VA did a nice job on the scale detailing with this model.

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