This is my first Dumas build. Dumas was the first company I found when I first wanted to fly free flight again after having fussed with rubber powered models years before. They advertised in a magazine. I've been debating with myself about which of their kits to build. I settled on the small Walnut Scale 17 1/2" Corsair to compliment my 16" Hellcat I made from scratch based on the Guillow plan. The box says the parts are laser cut, and it comes with good FAI contest rubber. The wood has been hand selected. Now I'll have to open the box, and take a look.

Kevin

Dumas would do better to roll the plan rather than fold it. The plastic cowl looks like it has a small defect, I'm not sure yet, but I can make one from balsa. The wood feels good. The 5" propeller, and thrust button are identical to the Guillow's products. The laser cut parts are not ID'd, but the plan contains enough information to place the right ones in the right places. The canopy is slightly cloudy, but there is a film over it to protect it, supposedly, but I can't tell. Otherwise it looks good.

Kevin

There has been talk about this before, but does anyone know the best way to get rid of the laser cutting burn marks?

Kevin

Well, I was wrong. There is a sheet with the parts ID'd, and a light, easy sanding takes off the burn residue. So far...easy enough.

Kevin

Something I neglected to add is this kit comes with detailed step by step building instructions. I'm having to refer to them.

Kevin

Placing the formers...5 minutes of work each, 30 minutes of waiting each.

Kevin

This is all I'm supposed to do to this side now. Next is to turn it over and do the other side. The parts are fitting together very well.

Kevin

Side two jigged in place for former placement.

Kevin

Side two formers, and side keel in place.

Kevin

If it was not for my fun old vintage builds, I would be building Dumas models for fun flights at my local park. I am so surprised to see very few Dumas kits build for freeflight since they are nice kits. Basically they are a functioning Guillows kit...……….Landing gear that works, removable nose block and sturdy build. I built the Dumas P-38 and she went together real nice, no complaints and look forward to building more of their kits in the future. They also produce a real nice DVD on covering.

The fuselage under construction, and the wing saddles in place via CA.

Kevin

I to am surprised we don't see more Dumas builds, I feel they are a big class above Guillows older kits...with Guillows narrowing the gap on there new laser cut kits. I really like Guillows laser cut kits and to be fair Guillows has cleaner laser cuts. Dumas has substantially lighter stringers...some so light they snap went bent slightly but they send extras. The vac formed parts are typically more crisply molded on Dumas kits and of a different material than Guillows...it sands better than Guillows plastic but seems more brittle. Lastly Dumas has a huge number of kits covering subjects that Guillows does not and they seem somewhat more purpose designed for rubber flight aka build out a bit lighter. They are more expensive than Guillows and Guillows does a great job marketing....I don't think Dumas spends much marketing at all.

The 1/16" stringer slots on this Dumas kit are a little loose. The Guillows stringers generally fit snug into the notches. Yeah, the sticks are light and I've broken one so far on the frame. Both Dave K, and I have taken Guillows models, and cut the parts down to a minimum just so they will do their job, and nothing much more to cut weight. I may do that on another Dumas kit to see how It works out. That would make for a light airplane.

Kevin

The plan provided a mark to set the first nose former at 3 degrees downward so the nose block / cowl wouldn't have to be shimmed for down thrust which I took advantage of. Unfortunately the former stringer notches are not cut deep enough. Granted, I sanded off the burn marks just enough so the dark violet tissue wouldn't show them, but that was paper thin balsa removal. I'm going to have to sand most every stringer down flush with the formers, but fortunately it's very little of a difference. However, it would show in the tissue covering if I don't.

Kevin

I've completed the fuselage frame except for sheeting the first bay on the sides. Sanding the stringers at the formers was no big deal. It only need a hair sanded off most each joint. I mostly used Titebond to glue, and a little CA when I need to really bend the wood. CA comes in handy at applications like the wing saddles.

Kevin