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Jun 11, 2019, 09:15 PM
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rajazo's Avatar
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Door hinge


It needs two HingeF (fuselage) and one HingeD (door). Print with the axis hinge in vertical. Remember, the filament is more resistant parallel to the heat bed .
Hinge D include a support piece (a little tube that needs to ve removed.
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Jun 12, 2019, 01:28 PM
Went to mow a meadow
frank48's Avatar
Great stuff! My first 3d printed plane project

Thanks!
Jun 12, 2019, 05:24 PM
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rajazo's Avatar
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new PC6 turbo porter 1.5m (3d printed mix)


Nice to see somebody interested in the Porter!
Remember is just a hybrid! Not full 3d printed

I will be uploading lot of info because is a hard work sort and classify the info.
Maybe, as a way to order the thread I appreciate post the questions that you find.

Just a couple of point to take when you start printing (parameter order outline, bottom, top, %infill)
- Lateral 1-2 , Rib1 planar face against the heat bed, print 3-1-2 20% the first 3mm and then print using 4-0-0 0%
-lateral 3 , external face on heat bed, 2-2-2 0% (needs support in the tabs, it doesn’t care the finish of the tab)
-RIB 3,6 print 2-2-2 20%
-RIB 2,4,5,7, BASE, all NOSE FRAME planar surface on the Heat bed, print 2-2-3 100%
-motor mount, 2-2-3 100%. Needs supports. Print vertical nose front on the heat bed. Print slow
-HOOD. Print vertical nose front on the heat bed. Use a generous raft. Print slow. Multi process is required p: 2-2-2 0% from first layer until the ribbing section. Continue using 1-0-0 0%, start using 1-0-3 5% in the upper section (this part is difficult, in my printer fail at this section but I solve it with a couple of PLA pieces,
- all small pieces needs at least 3-2-2 and 100%
Last edited by rajazo; Jun 14, 2019 at 05:36 PM. Reason: sorry for my bad english
Jun 13, 2019, 01:20 PM
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tspeer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rajazo
Nice to see somebody interested in the Porter!
Remember is just a hybrid! Not full 3d printed...
I'm really excited about this plane! Our flying field is small and has trees on 3 sides, so it can be difficult to land well, especially for gliders without spoilers. And the grass runway is new, rough in places, and wavy, so it calls for a rugged plane with big wheels. I think a STOL plane like the PC6 is just the ticket, given my newby flying skills.

I really like the fact that it's not a 100% printed plane. I think you're making the best use of printed parts, foam and carbon.

What would you think of using polypropylene instead of styrene foam, especially for the forward fuselage?
Jun 14, 2019, 09:18 AM
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rajazo's Avatar
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new PC6 turbo porter 1.5m (3d printed mix)


Thanks for the support.
The nose frame glued to the foam are really thought. I think polypropylene is unnecessary and the weight penalty could be high and add a couple of problem:
-the first 10mm of the foam needs a little cut down to insert the motor mount
-the nose resist a lot of abuse even little crash but if you have a bad crash, the nose will be colapse and will not transfer the force to the cage. By far the nose section is the easiest part of building and print.

I updated the photos of construction of the wing
Jun 16, 2019, 02:42 PM
Went to mow a meadow
frank48's Avatar
Printed off the wing ribs, all came out good!

Do you have plan for the wing yet?
Jun 16, 2019, 09:02 PM
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rajazo's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank48
Printed off the wing ribs, all came out good!

Do you have plan for the wing yet?
ups... I forget to post it.

It was uploaded on the first post as WING PROFILE and WING PLAN.
I think It is not necessary to print the PLAN at 100% (40x80cm) because you need a couple of dimension to cut the foam, and mark the position of the internal ribs:
-Cut a big rectangle of foam 34x73cm
-from trailing edge of the lower side of the wing mark 3 guide lines, 158mm to the leading edge axis, and then another mark to 35mm at the lower side, and 60 on the upper side.
-put the tape on the contrary side (external surface) using the leading edge mark. I have 40mm tape, then 15mm to the lower side, and 25 mm for the upper side.
-make the rib marks in the lower size
-make double cut of 45º bevel from the leading edge axis.Or mark 5mm to each side and cut the bevels
- Prebend the 60mm fringe. I use a foam covered with a thinny PAI film, because that I need to scrape this surface to bend the upper curve easily
- bend the rectangle using a good ruler or wooden board at the leading edge position. bend to 180º for a moment, and then leave it free


now you are ready to start with the glue.
Check post #4. It was update a couple of days ago.

the upper side of the wing is 2cm bigger than necessary because the bending process is not perfect and a couple of milimeters (or more) could be added or lossed, but doesn't affect (not in my gross sensitivity). Then after all es glued and cured, you can cut the excess . Try to cut the upper section on the aileron section at 30 to 45º to reduce the gap between the aileron and the upper surface of the wing.

regard
Last edited by rajazo; Jun 16, 2019 at 09:41 PM.
Jun 17, 2019, 06:56 AM
Went to mow a meadow
frank48's Avatar
Brilliant Thanks!
Jun 17, 2019, 02:45 PM
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tspeer's Avatar
Is TP_2019_MotorM.stl an assembly drawing or a single part? If it is a single part, what orientation do you use to print it? (It looks like it would have a lot of unsupported areas.)
Jun 17, 2019, 10:58 PM
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rajazo's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tspeer
Is TP_2019_MotorM.stl an assembly drawing or a single part? If it is a single part, what orientation do you use to print it? (It looks like it would have a lot of unsupported areas.)
Is a single part 5hrs printing time. The most difficult part to print.
The front of the piece needs to be on the heat bed and needs support and raft.
If you use simplify 3d I can upload the factory file to save the tedious work of putting the supports.

check the measure of your motor, from the screw base (the aluminium cross) to the backward of the spinner. This motor mount has room for 45-46mm long or less (use washer or print them) a typical .10 .15 electric motor. If this distance is greater (more than 4mm) the nose could be looks weird. In this case, I could modify this distance easily and post a new motor mount.

Maximum Spinner diameter is 50mm (2") but I use a 44mm (1 3/4") and looks fine.

regards
Last edited by rajazo; Jun 17, 2019 at 11:05 PM.
Jun 17, 2019, 11:46 PM
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tspeer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rajazo
...
If you use simplify 3d I can upload the factory file to save the tedious work of putting the supports. ...
Please do!

Thanks.
Yesterday, 01:50 PM
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rajazo's Avatar
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can you check this factory files?
I re-designed the STL file and added supports to get better finishing on the firewall than the normal support (lot of lines on the unsupported surface and needs some x-acto work) but I don´t want to print the piece again, yet.

I compressed on ZIP files.... one version needs 7,3hrs on my printer (all layers at 0,2mm) and "fast" version needs 5hrs (all layers at 0,3mm , only the firework section at 0,2mm).

You can get better speed if your machine is better than mine (not difficult) , and accelerate the speed as fast as you can . The file are config on 2000mm/min.

check the numbers for temperature and cooling , because It depends on the printer and the filament you use.

keep me informed, thanks
Yesterday, 02:22 PM
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tspeer's Avatar
I haven't printed anything, yet, but I was able to import the first file, generate gcode, and preview it with no problems.


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