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Jan 23, 2020, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian_OH
I thought just plugging in the 3S batts were what was causing the problems with their power surge, and I know I remember reading about the 3S batts causing them to fry. I really don't remember reading anything about problems with 2S batteries and the XT30.
That's what I understood too.
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Jan 23, 2020, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerPilot
That's what I understood too.
As much as I'd want to be wrong it pretty much clearly states it right here, maybe somebody smarter that. Myself can chime in and see if xt30 on 1s will blow, might only be an issue on brand new high discharge lipos for all I know. I'm basing my info on this writeup http://www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2...ppymodel-xt30/
Jan 23, 2020, 12:45 PM
Are we not men? We are DEVO!
xanuser's Avatar
xt30 wont blow on 1s.
Jan 23, 2020, 03:08 PM
FPV Ground Pounder
Gramps50's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_206
I flashed 96khz on my m6 last night and worked out great, I think you might need to raise startup power, before I take off I like to yaw on the ground because it seems to get the esc'd going. I would also try running 4/4 @dshot300 and if that doesn't work maybe give rpm filtering a go along side everything else.
96khz, dshoot300, 4k/4k, startup power 1.25 that did the trick
Jan 23, 2020, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps50
96khz, dshoot300, 4k/4k, startup power 1.25 that did the trick
Hey thanks for reporting back, if you find your quad is a bit slippery you might want to try a 48khz build that still has active breaking on it, I preferred having it removed completely
Jan 23, 2020, 04:10 PM
Registered User

mobula 7 voltage readout


I fried my mobula7 by landing into water barrel Bought crazybee f4 v2.0 to replace damaged FC. Flashed Betaflight 4.1.1. on it. Atm I'm having really weird voltage readouts even when connected to only to USB

See picture "only connected to USB - betaflight shows 8.2V - seems off??"
Name: mobula7_crazybee2-0_usb_connected.png
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Size: 100.7 KB
Description:

See picture "2S battery connected, measured 8.35v with multi-meter on XT30 pins, betaflight shows 8.27 - seems ok"
Name: mobula7_crazybee2-0_bat_connected_real_8_35v.png
Views: 6
Size: 106.0 KB
Description:

Under "voltage meter" block I have changed "scale" to get similar readout with voltage measured with multi-meter but I do not understand how USB readout can be similar to 2S.
Jan 23, 2020, 05:11 PM
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Temporal Flux's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by aldas
I fried my mobula7 by landing into water barrel Bought crazybee f4 v2.0 to replace damaged FC. Flashed Betaflight 4.1.1. on it. Atm I'm having really weird voltage readouts even when connected to only to USB

See picture "only connected to USB - betaflight shows 8.2V - seems off??"
Attachment 13063075

See picture "2S battery connected, measured 8.35v with multi-meter on XT30 pins, betaflight shows 8.27 - seems ok"
Attachment 13063073

Under "voltage meter" block I have changed "scale" to get similar readout with voltage measured with multi-meter but I do not understand how USB readout can be similar to 2S.
Try entering this in the CLI:

Code:
set vbat_scale = 110
set vbat_divider = 10
set vbat_multiplier = 1
set ibata_scale = 1175
set ibata_offset = 0
set ibatv_scale = 0
set ibatv_offset = 0
save
Jan 23, 2020, 05:34 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by aldas
I fried my mobula7 by landing into water barrel Bought crazybee f4 v2.0 to replace damaged FC. Flashed Betaflight 4.1.1. on it. Atm I'm having really weird voltage readouts even when connected to only to USB

See picture "only connected to USB - betaflight shows 8.2V - seems off??"
Attachment 13063075

See picture "2S battery connected, measured 8.35v with multi-meter on XT30 pins, betaflight shows 8.27 - seems ok"
Attachment 13063073

Under "voltage meter" block I have changed "scale" to get similar readout with voltage measured with multi-meter but I do not understand how USB readout can be similar to 2S.
I would highly reccomend getting some mg chemicals silicone conformal coating, I'd done properly you'll be almost totally water resistant and it helps cement in loose smd components. If you're interested in backups pyrodrone still has the crazy bee f4 v2's for only 20$, I've bought a couple and they've been solid so far, if you want a killer deal they have sailfly x's for 50$
Quote:
Originally Posted by Temporal Flux
Try entering this in the CLI:

Code:
set vbat_scale = 110
set vbat_divider = 10
set vbat_multiplier = 1
set ibata_scale = 1175
set ibata_offset = 0
set ibatv_scale = 0
set ibatv_offset = 0
save
Damn beat me to it lol
Jan 24, 2020, 03:01 PM
Just an earth-bound misfit
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_206
I would highly reccomend getting some mg chemicals silicone conformal coating, I'd done properly you'll be almost totally water resistant and it helps cement in loose smd components. If you're interested in backups pyrodrone still has the crazy bee f4 v2's for only 20$, I've bought a couple and they've been solid so far, if you want a killer deal they have sailfly x's for 50$


Damn beat me to it lol
Picked up one of those Crazybee v2.0s in the "no receiver" version from them middle of December, didn't know they had them on sale again. At that price, couldn't pass it up . . . and it DOES come w/capacitor on the batt plug. First time I've had more working Crazybees than I need at the moment . . . with past experience, I never thought that would happen . . . don't want to jinx myself, but probably should grab another one too . . .

Saved your instructions for hooking up an XM+ to the Crazybees, thanks again TF.

I pulled the Frsky D8 FD800 off my Mantis with the fried stack . . . motors to another Primo . . . does the communication wire go to the same inverted IRX1 sbus solder point like the XM+, or just to the "regular" RX1 spot? Probably hiding right in front of me, but I sure couldn't find any information on it. I know it's an older receiver, but . . .
Jan 24, 2020, 04:51 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Temporal Flux
Try entering this in the CLI:

Code:
set vbat_scale = 110
set vbat_divider = 10
set vbat_multiplier = 1
set ibata_scale = 1175
set ibata_offset = 0
set ibatv_scale = 0
set ibatv_offset = 0
save
these are defaults? voltage seems similar number before I tried changing scales. now it is reading 34V when connected to USB.
Name: mobula_7_after.png
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Size: 153.4 KB
Description:
Jan 24, 2020, 05:18 PM
Registered User
Temporal Flux's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by aldas
these are defaults? voltage seems similar number before I tried changing scales. now it is reading 34V when connected to USB.
Attachment 13066689
Yes, those are the stock settings for that board. There must be a fault.

But, try entering the following in the CLI and post what it says:
Code:
get vbat
Jan 24, 2020, 07:50 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian_OH
Picked up one of those Crazybee v2.0s in the "no receiver" version from them middle of December, didn't know they had them on sale again. At that price, couldn't pass it up . . . and it DOES come w/capacitor on the batt plug. First time I've had more working Crazybees than I need at the moment . . . with past experience, I never thought that would happen . . . don't want to jinx myself, but probably should grab another one too . . .

Saved your instructions for hooking up an XM+ to the Crazybees, thanks again TF.

I pulled the Frsky D8 FD800 off my Mantis with the fried stack . . . motors to another Primo . . . does the communication wire go to the same inverted IRX1 sbus solder point like the XM+, or just to the "regular" RX1 spot? Probably hiding right in front of me, but I sure couldn't find any information on it. I know it's an older receiver, but . . .
Yeah Brian I ended up picking up 2 of them and now I too have a small swarm of working aios, if its an f4 pretty sure you need to run inverted RX. I've also bought a sailfly x and I think I'm going to make a ur85 framed 'shutterbug' with it. I'll probably use the sailfly frsky fc on another mobula 75, I seem to have better luck with these no RX crazybees
Jan 24, 2020, 08:36 PM
Just an earth-bound misfit
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_206
Yeah Brian I ended up picking up 2 of them and now I too have a small swarm of working aios, if its an f4 pretty sure you need to run inverted RX. I've also bought a sailfly x and I think I'm going to make a ur85 framed 'shutterbug' with it. I'll probably use the sailfly frsky fc on another mobula 75, I seem to have better luck with these no RX crazybees
"I too have a small swarm of working aios"

Maaan . . . I know we shouldn't have typed that out loud . . . now we're both screwed . . .

I got a couple URUAV 85 frames when I was putting my 85s together. Don't think it's as sturdy/strong as the Beta by looks, but never used them (2 pack) It has a really odd/krappy battery bay, and I don't have a battery that fits it right. Also going the wrong way and couldn't even get a strap on it the right way, even cutting the cage out. Only use I could see is cutting off the ducts and using them on a c/f frame.
Jan 24, 2020, 09:27 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian_OH
"I too have a small swarm of working aios"

Maaan . . . I know we shouldn't have typed that out loud . . . now we're both screwed . . .

I got a couple URUAV 85 frames when I was putting my 85s together. Don't think it's as sturdy/strong as the Beta by looks, but never used them (2 pack) It has a really odd/krappy battery bay, and I don't have a battery that fits it right. Also going the wrong way and couldn't even get a strap on it the right way, even cutting the cage out. Only use I could see is cutting off the ducts and using them on a c/f frame.
Oh man I see now, maybe the eachine cinecan 4k frame might do me, I need 3 hole motor Mount spacings to make use of my excess HM motors and free up probably my favorite motor so far the skystar 11k 1103's. I run a strap on my beta85 frame so I'm not too picky on using the lipo tray and I only have one of those 300mah 3s anyways. I've got a few mobula HD frames so I think I'm going to also try and just use one for los acro, for me the 40mm prop builds aren't up to par when I can go up .4" on an 85 frame and get more power and efficiency or go down to 65 for actual whooping
Jan 24, 2020, 10:59 PM
Just an earth-bound misfit
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_206
Oh man I see now, maybe the eachine cinecan 4k frame might do me, I need 3 hole motor Mount spacings to make use of my excess HM motors and free up probably my favorite motor so far the skystar 11k 1103's. I run a strap on my beta85 frame so I'm not too picky on using the lipo tray and I only have one of those 300mah 3s anyways. I've got a few mobula HD frames so I think I'm going to also try and just use one for los acro, for me the 40mm prop builds aren't up to par when I can go up .4" on an 85 frame and get more power and efficiency or go down to 65 for actual whooping
I ended up re-drilling one of the the Beta 85 frames for my 802/16 kv version. The motors aren't 100% centered in the base, I can see the shaft/bearing a little off one way on this one, and the others off a tad too.. Don't even think there's one that's right dead center, but doesn't seem to matter. I've never had any odd flying characteristics with it on 1 or 2S, punches, dives or hard turns, and no vibrations shaking it up. I'm guessing close is close enough. I was worried at first, but saw a couple Pick frames that were easy to see from the holes for the motor bolts, they varied from one to another, so I just went with it, and no problem. On 2S doesn't fly all that much different than the 85 with my Skystars 1103s. Has 37,000rpm more on the smaller motors, and probably has more to do with the difference in the props. Not quite as fast, and surprisingly, the bigger motors get even better flight times, but still a fun Whoop, and I fly it a lot. They both definitely out perform my Mobula with the smaller 40mm props, and both get even longer flight times than the 5+ I get on the Mobula too.

I thought the Mobula HD had the v3 frame, like the Can, and that's not suppose to handle as good as the v2, and for some reason, also cuts into the flight times by about 10+%. It's the strongest and sturdiest of the three, but the v2 is suppose to be the best overall.


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