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Sep 22, 2019, 08:57 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by w4yn
So I jumped in with both feet and ended up in cement buckets!
I bought the very nice 30 A supply, the DC charger, and the battery checker, along with some 2200 and 5000 ma batteries
Well first disappointment was the charger does not come with a lead to supply, the supply did have a bullet to IC3 lead though.
OK got past that, now the charger and the checker only accepts IC3 connector, so I cannot charge or check the IC5 5000 ma batteries
Nothing on HH website indicates they have ever made such a charging cable,
I can solder so sure I can make one but hey if your going make a SMART system why not be smart about how to use it
Grrrrrrrrr
Tim
My bad I did finally find it, not listed under charger accessories but under Smart section
Battery testing results.
the 2200 3c 30c battery tested right on the money at 2219ma with constant 10 amp draw
the 5000ma 4c 30c is a dud
2 tries and the best is only 3500 capacity using same test peramatures
not great HH
Tim
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Sep 22, 2019, 09:09 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingsflyer
Here's a couple of things you might try. First lower your iron temp to 450. Second, connect two plugs together before soldering one. That is, plug a male IC3 into a female IC3 and then put them in your solder jig. Solder wires to the one you need. Let it cool down, then unplug the two connectors. The two connectors help keep the pins aligned even if one gets too hot and softens the plastic housing.

Hope this helps.

McD
Thank you kingsflyer, I wondered if I had the solder iron too hot and that is a great idea to leave the two plug ends together. I will try that today and let you know - I really appreciate the help!
Sep 22, 2019, 11:23 AM
TAFTS
The iron can't be too hot! Hotter is better. The problem is its not hot enough and you have to sit there too long for the solder to melt and the housing gets too hot. We gave weekly solder lessons at the hobby shop for years. I have literally showed hundreds of people how to solder thousands of connectors.

Plugging in the extra connector is good. It helps move the heat away from where you are soldering. But using a HOT iron is the key. You want to generate a huge temperature gradient so the area you are soldering is hot enough but further away where it touches the housing it cools quickly

800 degree iron. Large tip. Pre-tin everything. Clean and tin the tip every time you pick it up. When the time comes, put the iron on the plug and wire simultaneously with a bit of pressure to conduct heat better. We always teach the 3 second rule. You need to get the job done in 3 seconds once you hit it with the iron. Otherwise you melt the housing. If it doesn't go, iron isn't hot enough, tip isn't big enough, it wasn't cleaned and tinned well enough, or a combination of all three. You can't use that pointy tip for circuit stuff. Three seconds!

Its just basic Heat Transfer. We want the connectors to be up to temperature as fast as possible to prevent the heat from conducting down stream.

Mechanical and Aerospace Engineer
Army trained to solder in the 70's.
NASA trained in the 80's
Last edited by Scott Todd; Sep 22, 2019 at 11:28 AM.
Dec 28, 2019, 10:19 PM
TwinFan
So based on earlier comments it appears that with a smart battery it is not necessary to use the balance connector, Believing that the battery’s internal circuitry takes care of the balancing during the charging. So is there any advantage, or disadvantage, to using the balance connector, or not, during the charge? One thing I have noticed is that if you don’t use the balance connector you do not get an IR reading for the individual cells during charging.

Don
Jan 21, 2020, 09:21 AM
Sure, I can fly after sunset!?

Enabling Auto Discharge?


What is the cheapest equipment needed to enable auto discharge?

I recently bought my grandson an Aeroscout for his birthday and it came with one smart battery. Iíve since learned that the battery comes with the auto discharge function disabled. Makes no sense.

It was the RTF version, complete with Smart battery and charger, but that Smart charger is super bare bones.

At this point, buying a $150 Smart charger for a single battery makes no financial sense.
Jan 21, 2020, 10:23 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Todd
The iron can't be too hot! Hotter is better. The problem is its not hot enough and you have to sit there too long for the solder to melt and the housing gets too hot. We gave weekly solder lessons at the hobby shop for years. I have literally showed hundreds of people how to solder thousands of connectors.

Plugging in the extra connector is good. It helps move the heat away from where you are soldering. But using a HOT iron is the key. You want to generate a huge temperature gradient so the area you are soldering is hot enough but further away where it touches the housing it cools quickly

800 degree iron. Large tip. Pre-tin everything. Clean and tin the tip every time you pick it up. When the time comes, put the iron on the plug and wire simultaneously with a bit of pressure to conduct heat better. We always teach the 3 second rule. You need to get the job done in 3 seconds once you hit it with the iron. Otherwise you melt the housing. If it doesn't go, iron isn't hot enough, tip isn't big enough, it wasn't cleaned and tinned well enough, or a combination of all three. You can't use that pointy tip for circuit stuff. Three seconds!

Its just basic Heat Transfer. We want the connectors to be up to temperature as fast as possible to prevent the heat from conducting down stream.

Mechanical and Aerospace Engineer
Army trained to solder in the 70's.
NASA trained in the 80's
Scott:

Thank you for all your very helpful information. I successfully soldered an IC5 to a new battery and an ESC without any issue at all - as long as I followed your instructions. The hot iron was truly the key. I genuinely appreciate your help and expertise!

David
Jan 21, 2020, 10:30 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by mybad
What is the cheapest equipment needed to enable auto discharge?

I recently bought my grandson an Aeroscout for his birthday and it came with one smart battery. Iíve since learned that the battery comes with the auto discharge function disabled. Makes no sense.

It was the RTF version, complete with Smart battery and charger, but that Smart charger is super bare bones.

At this point, buying a $150 Smart charger for a single battery makes no financial sense.
I never really thought of this issue because I purchased the $150 charger but for me I have about 10 smart batteries: 3S, 4S and 6S. I went back and looked at the chargers and it doesn't appear that there is an option other than the $150 charger (Spektrumô Smart S2100 AC Charger, 2x100W (SPMXC1010)). The smaller charger for $30 doesn't seem to support that function. Wish I lived closer would be glad to help you out and let you set the discharge delay on your battery. Is there a local hobby shop where you got the plane/battery that might do the same for you?

As for the discharge function disabled...I guess they erred on the side of caution because there are so many choices for discharge I bet people wouldn't be happy with the default rate. Doesn't help you though.

Sorry I couldn't find a better answer. Have you tried asking AndyKunz here on the forum? Perhaps he knows of an alternative.
Jan 21, 2020, 09:21 PM
Sure, I can fly after sunset!?
I contacted HH. Their $40 LiPo/servo tester can do it. Hate to go that route but itís cheaper than the alternative for the time being
Jan 21, 2020, 09:33 PM
Registered User
Glad to know there is an option other than the $150 charger
Jan 22, 2020, 10:53 AM
Registered User

Help with Spectrum S2100 Connectors for 2s JST-PH Batteries


Hi,
Getting back into RC after many years and trying to get up to speed on electric power. I am thinking of starting with a simple 2S powered BNF plane but would like to get a good charger, useful as I progress to larger planes/packs. The S2100 looks like a good one. To charge 2S packs with only JST-PH connectors, it looks like I need EC3 to EC5 connectors plus a banana connector connected to two JST-PH connectors. The banana plugs into the EC5. One JST-PH connector will attach to the battery and the other to the charger balance port. Is this correct? Any other advice appreciated.
thanks,
Michael
Last edited by adkbiker; Jan 22, 2020 at 02:49 PM.
Jan 24, 2020, 12:08 AM
Fire Marshall Bill
Just remove the banana plugs from 2s parallel board and replace with a EC3 connector. Plugin the EC3, the balance lead, and then the batteries. I can charge 8 at a time with my board.
Jan 24, 2020, 08:44 PM
Registered User

Followup Question about Parallel Boards


Quote:
Originally Posted by Elmo Te
Just remove the banana plugs from 2s parallel board and replace with a EC3 connector. Plugin the EC3, the balance lead, and then the batteries. I can charge 8 at a time with my board.
If the parallel board is connected by only one balance plug wondering if the parallel board is smart enough to balance charge all 8 batteries concurrently?
Jan 24, 2020, 09:00 PM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
The corresponding cell connection in every pack is directly connected. By definition all cells are at the same voltage as the corresponding cell in other packs. As far as the charger is concerned it is just charging and balancing one big pack.
Quote:
Originally Posted by adkbiker
If the parallel board is connected by only one balance plug wondering if the parallel board is smart enough to balance charge all 8 batteries concurrently?
Jan 26, 2020, 09:14 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jj604
The corresponding cell connection in every pack is directly connected. By definition all cells are at the same voltage as the corresponding cell in other packs. As far as the charger is concerned it is just charging and balancing one big pack.
thanks for the responses, it makes sense now.
Feb 05, 2020, 01:12 PM
Registered User

Auto Battery as power supply


So after reading the forum and buying the S1200 DC charger, I was wondering if anyone is actually charging from a automobile battery and how that worked? I have a one foot cable with clips on one end and the Smart EC3 on the other, so I can connect directly to my cars battery when in the field. Has anyone else tried this? and did they keep the car running or just use the battery sitting idle?


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