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Sep 07, 2018, 07:44 AM
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Build Log

Hobby Express Telemaster Deluxe 40 Kit


Welcome to the Hobby Express Deluxe 40 Telemaster build. As you may have heard Hobby Express was purchased earlier this year and moved operations to the Asheville, NC area. We are working hard to catch up on back orders and get our new website launched. The current site has the Telemaster planes as well as Graupner Radios and RCGF gas engines. Don’t worry if you don’t see what you need just ask as we are a Horrizon Dealer as well as carry many other product lines.

So, lets jump into this build, the iconic Telemaster has been simplified for the building process using a tab lock self aligning system. The kit comes complete with the hardware, pushrods, wheels, landing gear and is a fun plane to build.

Let’s start with the vertical stab and rudder. The parts have a (F)number for the fin and (R) for rudder. Most all the pieces have little cut tabs to keep the parts in the wood while cutting, some areas may need a light sanding to eliminate this tab. Remove all the parts and set on the plans to get familiar with the location and see how Mark has designed the plane. Now put some wax paper down over plans and take all the parts and dry fit them once satisfied glue F1 to F2, then add F3 next add F7 and glue it to F1. We use CA glue for this, Next add F9, F5 and F4 & F6 these will only fit one way. At this time leave F8 off as it is easy to break off, glue on during final test assembly and covering phase. Next let’s go to the rudder. Take R1 and glue R4 in place then add R3 (top) next add R3 then add the cross pieces R5-9. Now lightly sand both sided of the vertical fin as well as the rudder and set off to the side. More shortly.
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Sep 07, 2018, 10:23 AM
A man with too many toys
Can you tell me what changes were made to the kit since CCK started making them?

The reason I asked is because I built one of the early Deluxe 40 Kit kits a few years back and was not impressed. It had parts that were cut incorrectly and the wood was very heavy - that kit had too much balsa replaced with plywood.

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Sep 07, 2018, 10:51 AM
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RC Man,

The kit has been simplified and uses a tab, lock system which also is self aligning. The wood quality is some of the best around as our vendor only deals with manufactures. The wing has been made in to a 2 piece plug in style that both wing panels plug together and then bolt down to fuse. You will see this shortly with the build thread. All the hardware is either Dubro or Sullivan and we use high quality screws, tnuts etc. Mark has done and excellent job on the CAD work just like the other fine CCK kits. Hope this helps and you follow the build.
Sep 07, 2018, 11:06 AM
A man with too many toys
I would like to build a Mini Telemaster. Will that kit be available any time soon?

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Sep 07, 2018, 03:54 PM
I just want to go fly!
walter3rd's Avatar
I noticed the wing has a center seam l. My 40 size has a central section with two seams so basically like a three-piece construction . Interesting.
Sep 07, 2018, 06:04 PM
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Yes it is a two piece wing that slide together and then bolt to the fuse.. I will get some photos of that in morning .
Sep 09, 2018, 07:44 AM
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Here are some photos of the 2 piece wing.
Sep 09, 2018, 08:03 AM
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So, let’s look at the fuse now. Here are the plan sheets as well as a look of the wood in the kit. Always consult the plans, you will find wood sizes and other important notes for your build.

So now let’s start and find the fuse parts and remove them from the sheets. Make sure you find the right & left side of the light ply designated (RD & LD) the right and down thrust are pre-set in these pieces. Next find the balsa fuse sides F1 & FS2 and light sand the cut tabs and test fit before gluing, once a tight fit is obtained use some glue and join the balsa sides together. To make sure you don’t mix up the light ply sided you may want to mark them on the inside.

Two firewalls are included one for electric and one for glow, both are labeled B1. For electric a motor box can be added to the firewall and in the glow version you will be able to mount a motor to a ply plate. Next locate the building aid small plate with dowel for alignment of the balsa / ply sides. Dry fit the balsa / ply before gluing. Once happy use CA glue and put on the light ply side and slide down to mate with the balsa part.

Next let’s work on the rear portion of the fuse which is balsa, locate FS3 & FS4 and at the rear lightly sand the cut tabs but leave the alignment bumps.

Now locate the ply plate TD and use a 1/8 dowel thru the holes to align this piece. Now mate the rear to the front, once this done next add the fuselage vertical stringers F5 thru F8. Next locate the ply bulkheads and dry fit these. Make sure you put all the bulk heads with the number in the same corner, so the pushrod holes will align up. Next glue the 3/16 x 3/16 square balsa strip in place flush with the top and bottom of the fuse, it stops against B9. Place the bulkheads in place and the put the battery tray (C1) in place and the wing mounting plate (WM2). Snap the two sides together and to help align the tail add the horizontal stab plate in place, once everything is tight you can use thin CA and glue the fuse together.
Flip the bottom over and add 2 - x 3/8 basswood rail in the notch for the landing gear plate area and then test fit G2. Titebond or 15-minute epoxy works good for gluing G2 in place. This is a good time to add or 3/8 tri stock to the firewall. Note on plans other locations for tri-stock. BS1 and BS2 are the front hatch covers. G1 is a ply plate that glues to G2. As you can see this kit is fun to build and builds quick. Now we start adding the bottom sheeting (BB) slide tight against to G1 and you will see it does not go all the way to the tail, the sheeting edge should be flush or close to flush with the fuse sides. Run a bead of CA on the fuse bottom sides and re-install the sheeting. Next will be installing C3 one goes on the top and bottom. The top sheeting BT butts up against the notch at the trailing edge of the wing. Flip fuse over again and add (TM) this is a ply plate for the tail wheel mount. With a scrap of 3/16 inch wood fill in the space in the tail post, there will be a hinge going into the so make about inch deep. H1 is ply piece and H2 is the balsa battery hatch- DO NOT THROW OUT THE CENTER- this is the battery hatch.

Look for F2A and glue both in place on the top of fuse next to front wing mount. B2A is a ply re-enforcement plate that’s get glued to the front side of B2. Next sand FS to fit flush to the battery hatch balsa then glue FS in place. Lightly sand the fuse and put off to the side, next we will do a wing panel.

Don’t forget to follow us on face book - https://www.facebook.com/HobbyExpressUSA/
Sep 09, 2018, 08:11 AM
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RC Man - we are working on backorders right now and hope to have the Mini out shortly. The Hobby Express Team has a few more events to attend.
Sep 09, 2018, 08:20 AM
'Douglas' to his friends.


Would that all kits came with such detailed and useful instructions and photos..! I especially like the sliding dowel lining-up idea; a Good Thing. Well done, t'will be interesting to follow this through to first flight and beyond.
The Telemaster is one of the 'planes I've dreamt about for far too many decades; I even have the plans for the nine-footer; I'm not sure, if I built it, I could even get it out of my 'den'..! It's a darned pity that shipping between the US and Europe is so exorbitant (yet the Chinese often manage free shipping..! ), or a kit like this could be on my 'Christmas present to self' list. A splendid topic, however; thanks for putting in the time to compose all of this.
Sep 09, 2018, 08:49 AM
I just want to go fly!
walter3rd's Avatar
Nice kit. Love my laser cut 40 as well
Sep 09, 2018, 09:18 AM
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Dad3353 - we could always look at shipping options for a kit if you like?
Sep 09, 2018, 10:10 AM
'Douglas' to his friends.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobby Express
Dad3353 - we could always look at shipping options for a kit if you like?
Thanks; appreciated, but later (2019..?). I've a queue of current stuff on the boards (had to construct extra ones, even..!), and more sets of plans to follow, so I'm fully booked for now. Fear not, however; I'll be back.
Sep 09, 2018, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dad3353
Thanks; appreciated, but later (2019..?). I've a queue of current stuff on the boards (had to construct extra ones, even..!), and more sets of plans to follow, so I'm fully booked for now. Fear not, however; I'll be back.
Sounds good !
Sep 11, 2018, 06:14 AM
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The Wing


Now for the wing, look at the plan sheet to get familiar with the parts. This is a two-piece plug in wing for easy transportation. You may want to build over the plans and put waxed paper down over plans, By building over the plans may help so you dont build two of the same side wing panels.

Do not get concerned if the plans do not match the parts as paper plans will expand or shrink.

Once you get all the parts out of the sheets use a straight edge pinned to a board to align the trailing edge during the build. TE1 & TE2 you will notice a small burn line on TE2 make sure this is facing to the rear when you laminate TE1 & TE2 together. This is a sand to line when you have the flaps and ailerons built. TE1 has the rib slots. Lightly sand the cut tabs to get a smooth surface. Then glue the two pieces together you can use a piece of scrap placed in the notch to help alignment. Next sand the cut tabs off the bottom of all the ribs so they sit flush to building board. Next lets build the servo trays, they are light ply and there are two of them one for flap and the other for ailerons. Make sure you note the servo position and the half circles in SM2, sand the cut tabs and put together and glue. The servo mount is pre-cut for a small servo and then a light burn for a standard servo that you can cut out with a knife. This tray plugs into the ribs, once you layout all the other ribs. Now laminate W1 & WR together as well as W2 & W3 this will start the build. Next find the bottom leading edge sheeting and use a piece of the 3/32 sheeting and place under the trailing edge as the servo tray sits below the bottom of the ribs. Either build against the straight edge or your favorite method to keep the TE straight until the ribs are all glued. Place W2 into the main spare and then work your way down the spar (MSB), W5 is a ply rib, when gluing MSB and MST on top of MSB you might want to use a very slow CA or Titebond glue for more working time and alignment, make sure the ribs are square to the spar with 90 degree angle. Make sure MST is tight against MSB and let this dry. W1 sets the dihedral and it is pre-cut into the spar MSB & MST, but we include a gauge to verify the setting. Now place W1 and use CA to glue this rib in place, now go thru wing and use CA and glue the ribs to the spar and TE. Now add W3A & W7A as noted on the plans. Now locate the light ply shear webs WW1 thru WW4 and glue into place, next glue WW5 thru WW14 in place. Now add and glue CW1 (ply) & CW2 (balsa) in place. Now add the tube sleeve let it extend about 1/8 inch past the end of W5. Use a piece of scrap wood to make a tube stop. Glue some tri stock against WW1,2, &3 and the tube sleeve. Next add the tri-stock sub leading edge you will see it sits slightly above the ribs. Sand the tri down to rib shape and then add WST, run a bead off glue down the spar and each rib and the LE tri stock and put in place. Now glue WSB the same way as WST.

Next we will build a aileron and finish the wing. So how is your build going?


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