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Jan 24, 2020, 08:27 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveT.
Yes, as your first comments were that you can't get your parts to stick.. The bltouch will do nothing for you if your parts don't stick. All it does is help you level the table and parts will stick even if the table isn't level (within reason of course).

That said, though I have not changed over yet, a buddy of mine has and the board that really seems to be the best one right now is the bigtreetech skr mini E3 board

SteveT.
Thanks SteveT,

Thatís the board Iím contemplating. I have leveled my bed using the paper trick and also saw a YouTube video on live leveling that I will try. My problem is the project, if small and is printed in the middle of the board adheres fine.

But Iíve been trying to build a tool drawer set for my printer and itís larger. The far right side does not adhere and the front left tends to warp. I though maybe the BLtouch would help fine tune the leveling to eliminate that. In learning about the BLtouch, I saw on teaching tech that the skr mini has ports built in for the Bltouch. I can play with Cura 4.4.1, but have not learned the program well enough to start playing with settings a lot. I did add brimming but that didnít help.

Thatís why I was wondering if the skr mini comes loaded with firmware so I donít have to flash it.

Jim
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Jan 24, 2020, 12:27 PM
Nose down, you're gonna stall
rowdyjoe's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmcdo
Thanks SteveT,

Thatís the board Iím contemplating. I have leveled my bed using the paper trick and also saw a YouTube video on live leveling that I will try. My problem is the project, if small and is printed in the middle of the board adheres fine.

But Iíve been trying to build a tool drawer set for my printer and itís larger. The far right side does not adhere and the front left tends to warp. I though maybe the BLtouch would help fine tune the leveling to eliminate that. In learning about the BLtouch, I saw on teaching tech that the skr mini has ports built in for the Bltouch. I can play with Cura 4.4.1, but have not learned the program well enough to start playing with settings a lot. I did add brimming but that didnít help.

Thatís why I was wondering if the skr mini comes loaded with firmware so I donít have to flash it.

Jim
Make sure you heat the bed and nozzle manually level so the nozzle doesn't gouge the bed, then run this "bed level test" file from Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803
Wherever the filament is not adhering, adjust the closest knob. Keep running it and adjusting until you get good adhesion in all 4 corners. (be sure to remove the previous layer each time). If the middle is too high or low, this process will show it.

I ran this file about 4 times recently to get my bed level and it worked well. Manual level process alone didn't work for me but, this process did work. Now, when I notice filament barely stuck or too easy to remove, I adjust the knob on closest corner of the bed. I've been happily printing since. I'll eventually install a BL touch but, in the meantime I'll install stiffer springs. Everything on my printer is bone stock.

Good luck.
Jan 24, 2020, 06:28 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdyjoe
Make sure you heat the bed and nozzle manually level so the nozzle doesn't gouge the bed, then run this "bed level test" file from Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803
Wherever the filament is not adhering, adjust the closest knob. Keep running it and adjusting until you get good adhesion in all 4 corners. (be sure to remove the previous layer each time). If the middle is too high or low, this process will show it.

I ran this file about 4 times recently to get my bed level and it worked well. Manual level process alone didn't work for me but, this process did work. Now, when I notice filament barely stuck or too easy to remove, I adjust the knob on closest corner of the bed. I've been happily printing since. I'll eventually install a BL touch but, in the meantime I'll install stiffer springs. Everything on my printer is bone stock.

Good luck.
Thanks Rowdyjoe,

That bed level test is very similar to the one I used from thingiverse. The only difference is the one I used had squares on the corners and a circle in the center. Once I adjusted he bed, I tried to print a larger model and it would not remain adhered to the bed and ended up getting scrapped off the bed. I have the newer bed that is a flexible magnetic pad from creality. So I probably need a new bed type. I have washed mine and wiped it with acetone and alcohol. The weird thing is the squares on the back right corner during the calibration stick well.
Jan 24, 2020, 07:03 PM
Professional sink locator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmcdo
Thanks Rowdyjoe,

That bed level test is very similar to the one I used from thingiverse. The only difference is the one I used had squares on the corners and a circle in the center. Once I adjusted he bed, I tried to print a larger model and it would not remain adhered to the bed and ended up getting scrapped off the bed. I have the newer bed that is a flexible magnetic pad from creality. So I probably need a new bed type. I have washed mine and wiped it with acetone and alcohol. The weird thing is the squares on the back right corner during the calibration stick well.
When you are using the "Level on the Fly" method it is extremely important that all four squares or circles both adhere well and are the same exact thickness. Only once they are the same thickness is your bed level. If they are not adhering well it is most likely too far from the nozzle to squish the material onto the bed and it is extruding into space...
Don't be afraid to actually measure the thickness with calipers, you will be surprised how much difference there can be, I've experienced as much as 50-75% when I thought that the bed was level and thought that they looked the same.
It's alot better to run and adjust the bed leveling tests several times than it is to waste a bunch of material and time with a TLAR method.
Jan 25, 2020, 08:33 AM
Time For Me To Fly!
fastmax's Avatar
Thread OP
Are you using anything on the build plate to aid with adhesion? If not, I highly recommend getting some Elmers purple glue sticks and applying it generously to the area the print will be built on.
Jan 25, 2020, 10:04 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastmax
Are you using anything on the build plate to aid with adhesion? If not, I highly recommend getting some Elmers purple glue sticks and applying it generously to the area the print will be built on.
Ditto on that, it works great for me.
Jan 25, 2020, 10:07 AM
Registered User
Thanks Gary, I’ll try the caliper measurement check. I did ensure my frame was square. I saw last night that CHEP said that could cause an issue. I have not upgraded the springs yet.

Thanks for the reply Fastmax. I have not been using anything as far as an adhesive on the build plate. It the newer Creality flexible magnetic mat. In some cases, it has been hard to get the model off, so I assumed that mat would not need any.
Jan 25, 2020, 04:15 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmcdo
Thanks Gary, Iíll try the caliper measurement check. I did ensure my frame was square. I saw last night that CHEP said that could cause an issue. I have not upgraded the springs yet.

Thanks for the reply Fastmax. I have not been using anything as far as an adhesive on the build plate. It the newer Creality flexible magnetic mat. In some cases, it has been hard to get the model off, so I assumed that mat would not need any.
Don't fight it, Surrender!!!!
Jan 25, 2020, 04:22 PM
Registered User
Oh, buy the way, the Ender 3 Pro is on sale Today only for $199 on Woot.com. Free shipping for Amazon prime members.
https://www.woot.com/category/computers?ref=w_gh_cp_5
Jan 25, 2020, 06:51 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
Excellent price, and you do want the Sainsmart version. Great customer service from Sainsmart if needed. I managed to cut one of the ribbon cables, and the shipped it to me for free (no charge for the cable or shipping).

SteveT.
Latest blog entry: My shop....
Jan 25, 2020, 09:52 PM
Registered User
I re-leveled my bed and printed the calibration pattern three times and the squares on the corners and the circle in he middle all turned out well. So I printed two inland reel clips and one cable clip and they turned out. I downloaded a different drawer from thingiverse and it’s been going for a little over five hours. It’s, so far turning out.

Has anyone had problems with inland PLA? It’s from micro Center.
Jan 25, 2020, 10:08 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
None at all, though I got mine form Amazon. In fact, it's pretty much all I use.

SteveT.
Latest blog entry: My shop....
Jan 26, 2020, 10:40 AM
Registered User
I seem to have finally gotten the kinks worked out. I got the bed leveled and positioned properly. Well, I say leveled, but I suspect it's still half a percent off toward one side. I'm using an 8" bubble level, and I took about a full hour checking, moving, and rechecking, making sure it stayed in the correct position relative to the nozzle on the zeroed z-axis. One thing I learned is that I need a better level.

Anyway, I started a print, and there was just a touch of fade out on one side of the base. But I let it play, ready to stop the print if necessary. It seems to be OK. 45min and 3% in, it's still going smoothly and making the correct shapes. Fingers crossed.
Jan 26, 2020, 03:05 PM
Professional sink locator
I've never used a bubble level to level my printer bed.
How does that work?

Seems that the term "Level your bed" is lost a little, since in reality it is the relationship between the hotend nozzle and the print bed.
Jan 26, 2020, 03:11 PM
Registered User
Like this. I put it across the bed and adjust til it’s level. I do diagonal both ways, and all 4 edges until they all show level as close as I can see, while trying to keep it even with the nozzle at z-axis zero.


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