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Aug 18, 2018, 10:19 AM
Culper Junior
Thread OP
Build Log

Binatang for OZ no picture buildoff


Yay, another build off!
The Binatang plans arrived a few days ago with a shock. It's small! Guess I should have looked closer to where it mentioned C02 power.

After all the recent bigger builds this will require some change of thinking for the electronics and power systems. At least the airframe will save some $ in materials being so small. It should be easy to build with what is on hand.

A pic below to give the size, not much difference from the HZ Champ. Since my builds seem to lose steam after the fuselage is built, the wing will be build first this time, so job #1 will be a template for the 20 ribs. This will (should) give a bit of time to purchase the small stuff for the innards of the fuselage.

Anyhow, I was just informed on this rainy Saturday morning that there are some shopping chores to do so maybe a bit later.

But, it is started, even if only the thinking part of what comes next.

BTW, Sundancer mentioned the Binatang was designed in Australia, anybody know the origin of the name?

In a bit, Skysters...
Last edited by aeronca52; Oct 08, 2018 at 09:54 PM.
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Aug 18, 2018, 10:31 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
I am sure the model is Ausralian in origin as the designer Noel Shennan is/was definitely an Aussie, he made a visit to the UK in the 1960's and I remember flying against him in the PAAload event at the British Nationals. However, it appears that the word "binatang" itself is Malaysian in origin and means "animal". So it seems you will have an international model there A52 - Australian design, malaysian name and U.S. build!
Aug 18, 2018, 10:41 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundancer
I am sure the model is Ausralian in origin as the designer Noel Shennan is/was definitely an Aussie, he made a visit to the UK in the 1960's and I remember flying against him in the PAAload event at the British Nationals. However, it appears that the word "binatang" itself is Malaysian in origin and means "animal". So it seems you will have an international model there A52 - Australian design, malaysian name and U.S. build!
As Dad3353 said about my Iambus, How did I miss this?

The designer may have flown the prototype without undercarriage, if he had any India connection.

In Hindi, bina means without, and tang means leg
Oct 07, 2018, 08:45 PM
Culper Junior
Thread OP
Well, we’re off and cutting balsa!
The Leaping Lena is within the last 10% of construction and it’s time to put the Binatang on the building board.

There are 22 wing ribs so they were cut first. A foam rib was cut out to use as a template to cut the balsa ones. Dug through the stash for a semi hard sheet of 1/16”.

As the pics show, a triangle was used to cut off a section of balsa sheet the width of the rib length. I was able to cut 5 ribs out of each of these pieces, the whole process took 18 minutes which also included two center ribs of 1/8” wood.

At this point my nose itched, and I went to scratch it with the same hand still holding the X-acto knife. I caught myself about a foot short of my face, but that was enough warning that I was too tired to go further tonight. Gotta know your limits.

So, the ribs are cut out, next step is to block sand them together, cut spar notches, and start assembling the wing.

Thanks for your interest!
Last edited by aeronca52; Oct 07, 2018 at 08:51 PM.
Oct 07, 2018, 10:57 PM
Registered User
Warren B's Avatar
Noel Shennan has a few designs along the same vein, including Cricket and Baby Dumpling.

Here's my Baby Dumpling scaled up 10% to 33".
Originally powered by a Taipan MkIII 1.5 but now with a Frog 150R blue head - VERY aerobatic!
Oct 08, 2018, 08:03 AM
Culper Junior
Thread OP
That’s a real smart lookin design there Warren, looks like it’ll loop around the flight box. Looks bigger than 33”.
Oct 08, 2018, 07:50 PM
Registered User
Warren B's Avatar
It sure does!
I'll be watching your Binatang as I have thought about that one a few times too.
Oct 08, 2018, 09:09 PM
Culper Junior
Thread OP
Thanks for following along Warren, and everyone else too.

Tonight more wing work. Ribs were block sanded, 10 at a time, which is 1/2 each wing.
Trailing edges were cut from a1/8 sheet with my trusty Master Airscrew stripper and sanded to shape. Ditto the leading edge. Ditto the spar.

Speaking of the spar... I changed the thin, deep spar to a thicker, more square-ish type, and moved it back a bit to where the ribs were higher to reduce splitting the ribs.

Anyhow...spar notches were sanded into the ribs and all the pieces were assembled. The parts in the assembled picture are friction fit, no glue yet. Thats tomorrows purple plan function.

And thats a wrap for tonight Skysters.
Btw, am I over detailing this build or do you all like to read about the little steps? Lmk.
Oct 08, 2018, 09:12 PM
Culper Junior
Thread OP
Follow up to the post above...the picture of the marked sheet should say...’ so I know it’s not a full 3” wide anymore’...
I’m not sure why those symbols appeared in the caption.
Oct 09, 2018, 03:29 AM
I like real wooden aeroplanes!
Sundancer's Avatar
Detailed build logs are good value as far as I am concerned, always something to pick up. BTW, personal preference but with the bottom spar only configuration I would have been tempted to add a couple of "turbulator spars" - 1/8" or 3/32" square - to the top LE to reduce covering sag.
Oct 09, 2018, 06:27 AM
Registered User
Warren B's Avatar
I found the Baby Dumpling’s inverted T spar made for a rather twisty wing, especially when covered in rather “soft” Litespan.
Nowadays I would use tissue over docalum which makes a much more rigid wing.
Oct 09, 2018, 06:30 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
Colonel Blink's Avatar
Personally, rather than use a 'tall' spar, I go for a top and a bottom spar in the (probably unfounded) belief that it is less likely to warp....
Oct 09, 2018, 11:07 AM
Culper Junior
Thread OP
Thanks for the thoughts guys.
Yes, after seeing the wing stuck together I was wondering about some sort of top spars. I do have these nifty 1/8 square sanding sticks purchased from Hobby Lobby so that might dictate the spar size.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Ho...ng-Files/p/921

Although they are described as Professional sanding files Ive yet in 66 trips around the sun to meet a professional sander.
Oct 11, 2018, 09:36 PM
Culper Junior
Thread OP
Hi Skysters!
Some woodwork and gluing tonight. Notches and turbulator spars were cut and dry fit then final glued together.

Spar notches were cut in rib tops by using two hacksaw blades taped and CA’d together. Depth was 1/8” so the two spars are 1/16” by 1/8”. Ribs were taped together 10 at a time and notches cut. After that ribs were returned to the wing assembly and everything again dry fit. No joking Skysters, this is a tedious process. Each rib was checked for spar fit by placing two fingers, one on the front and one on the rear of each rib and seeing if it sat flat on the plans or rocked a bit. If it rocked it was removed and the main spar notch sanded maybe 4-6 back-n-forth swipes then fit checked again. Repete until fit is satisfactory. Then sand the LE and TE of each rib to fit the wing LE and TE. Tedious, Skysters, tedious.

Anyhow, enough whining, it was fun. After the rib dry fit the ribs were glued in then the spars followed. All in all it was very satisfying to see the completed assembly. I made it myself!

Check out the pictures.
Last edited by aeronca52; Oct 11, 2018 at 09:41 PM.
Oct 11, 2018, 09:37 PM
Culper Junior
Thread OP
Ok, the captions on the last two pics didn’t stick.
One is my hand holding a typical rib with lower main and upper turbulator spar cut outs.

The other pic is the whole assembly glued up and pinned down.


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