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Aug 25, 2019, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davylah
I took mine out yesterday and it flew like the cg was too far back, but actually looked a little too far forward when I checked it before takeoff.
The elevator on this plane is very sensitive. Too much elevator throw can make it seem tail-heavy. Too much up trim to counteract a nose heavy condition can do the same.
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Aug 25, 2019, 03:43 PM
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Bill Glover's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by davylah
Sorry if its already been covered, but can I get pictures of where people have their cg set please?
I took mine out yesterday and it flew like the cg was too far back, but actually looked a little too far forward when I checked it before takeoff.
80mm works fine - I've used that from day 1.

Virtually all of these need some down trim ... the tailplane incidence is slightly out I think. As already mentioned the elevator is pretty sensitive ... you don't want to go over the 'high rate' throw given in the manual. The pushrods are also a bit prone to friction/binding, which can give a slight 'double neutral'. So if the handling feels a bit odd check for that.
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Aug 25, 2019, 05:21 PM
Registered User
Hi .. saw your post about differential thrust on seaplanes ... I owned a full-size HU-16C Albatross that we restored out of Davis Monthan AFB .. sold it a couple of years ago and just bought a "smaller" Avios Albatross model ... I've flown a lot of RC planes in the past but this is first multi-engine one w. reverse to boot ... and I can't seem to find anything on configuring the DX-8 and 8-channel receiver w. two throttle ESC wires, and two REV wires in a Y harness? Any info would be greatly appreciated. I have one throttle wire going to "throttle" in receiver, the other into Aux 3, which is a knob control .. both work .. but not sure how to link them together, or how to get differential thrust.

Any info/links etc... would be greatly appreciated.
Aug 26, 2019, 10:35 AM
Registered User
BerndM's Avatar
I finally finished the ridiculously difficult repair job to replace the damaged air rudder geartrain on my Albatross. Our flying site lake level is way down right now so no flying for the last month and a half and probably not until the rainy season starts again in 2 or 3 months. Bummer. At least there was no time pressure to finish the repair up. Anyway, what should have been a simple half hour job turned into many hours but as far as I'm concerned it is done. Not as pretty as I hoped but from 5 feet way, it looks fine. I mixed the paint to perfectly match the gray and it looked great. UNTIL the paint dried and it changed a bit.
Oh well. At least the rudder is functional again.
Now I just have to wait for the rain to refill our lake.
Last edited by BerndM; Aug 26, 2019 at 11:09 AM.
Aug 26, 2019, 12:01 PM
Registered User
Bill Glover's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flitedoc
I've flown a lot of RC planes in the past but this is first multi-engine one w. reverse to boot ... and I can't seem to find anything on configuring the DX-8 and 8-channel receiver w. two throttle ESC wires, and two REV wires in a Y harness? Any info would be greatly appreciated. I have one throttle wire going to "throttle" in receiver, the other into Aux 3, which is a knob control .. both work .. but not sure how to link them together, or how to get differential thrust.
Can't help with the specifics of Spektrum programming, but you'll be using 3 channels on the receiver:

Left ESC
Right ESC
Reverse (Y lead from the Rx to each ESC)

Reverse just needs to be activated by any handy switch/button the Tx ... I actually use a 'momentary' one which has to be held up in order to get reverse.

Each ESC needs a mixer that has both rudder and throttle input; ideally you want to be able to switch the rudder input on and off, and you want to have a safety (motor cut) switch that completely disables both channels so you can't get a motor springing to life if you bump the rudder stick by mistake.
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Aug 26, 2019, 12:03 PM
Registered User
Bill Glover's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by BerndM
I mixed the paint to perfectly match the gray and it looked great. UNTIL the paint dried and it changed a bit.
Yup my fin is the same where I chopped the top off ... close up you can see it's not an exact match, but from any distance it looks fine. Just enjoy the model
Latest blog entry: Eachine QX65 FPV quad review
Aug 26, 2019, 12:26 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover
...and you want to have a safety (motor cut) switch that completely disables both channels so you can't get a motor springing to life if you bump the rudder stick by mistake.
If you set up the differential throttle to RETARD one of the motors, instead of advancing the other one, then bumping or deflecting the rudder stick will not cause either motor to run unexpectedly.

Jim
Aug 26, 2019, 01:22 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrf2
If you set up the differential throttle to RETARD one of the motors, instead of advancing the other one, then bumping or deflecting the rudder stick will not cause either motor to run unexpectedly.

Jim
I'm pretty sure he meant the "left" stick (mode 2), which can be the rudder or throttle stick.
Aug 26, 2019, 02:34 PM
Registered User
Bill Glover's Avatar
I've always set differential throttle up to increase power on one side and reduce on the other ... so total thrust remains more or less the same (unless the throttle is fully open or fully closed of course). Just reducing power on one side would work OK but you'd need to work the throttle a bit more. Whatever you're comfortable with.

If you do use a mix that can increase power on one side or the other based on rudder input then you need to make sure your throttle safety switch takes account of this (i.e. it doesn't just disable the throttle input to the mixers). That's all I meant
Latest blog entry: Eachine QX65 FPV quad review
Aug 26, 2019, 05:37 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by BerndM
I finally finished the ridiculously difficult repair job to replace the damaged air rudder geartrain on my Albatross. Our flying site lake level is way down right now so no flying for the last month and a half and probably not until the rainy season starts again in 2 or 3 months. Bummer. At least there was no time pressure to finish the repair up. Anyway, what should have been a simple half hour job turned into many hours but as far as I'm concerned it is done. Not as pretty as I hoped but from 5 feet way, it looks fine. I mixed the paint to perfectly match the gray and it looked great. UNTIL the paint dried and it changed a bit.
Oh well. At least the rudder is functional again.
Now I just have to wait for the rain to refill our lake.
Bern...The repair looks OK..You did well..

I notice that the ball joint is on the bottom... I cant remember if that is how it came out of the box as I have added a clevis there too like you have with your elevator.

I was always taught that wherever you put a bolt (ball joint in this case) on a horizontal surface you put the bolt head to the top and the nut to the bottom.

The theory is that if the nut comes loose the bolt will NOT drop out and you will still have control of whatever you have attached to that bolt.

Just something to think about...
Aug 26, 2019, 09:52 PM
nsr500v

optimal lopo packs for the HU-16 flying off water


My new plane is on its way and waited to see what the first run batch was going to produce for problems.. Dosent look like any real big problems. after everyone has been fly there for many months now , what is the general option for the best lipo pack , I thought of a admiral 4S 4000 to start. ???
Aug 26, 2019, 10:03 PM
Registered User
WVrailfan's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsr500v
My new plane is on its way and waited to see what the first run batch was going to produce for problems.. Dosent look like any real big problems. after everyone has been fly there for many months now , what is the general option for the best lipo pack , I thought of a admiral 4S 4000 to start. ???
I fly mine with Admiral 3600 four cell, I have my timer set for 6 minutes and usually have 30-35% left in the pack. I doubt the 4000 is much heavier.

JB
Aug 26, 2019, 10:37 PM
Registered User
BerndM's Avatar
Hey agedflier
I agree with you on the way the ball is attached but that is how I received it and I never bothered to change it.
Looking at it now it appears obviously wrong as the pushrod angles down quite a bit.
I will switch that around in the morning which will also give the pushrod a much more direct inline travel.
Good catch.
Thanks
Aug 26, 2019, 10:51 PM
Registered User
Glad to help Bern...

Mine is nearly ready for "sea trials" I stuck rx to wing like a few other have done... I will post pix of that when I get the wing off...again..
Aug 26, 2019, 10:57 PM
nsr500v

southern Califorina float flys at Cachuma lake SBRCM


Quote:
Originally Posted by BerndM
Hey agedflier
I agree with you on the way the ball is attached but that is how I received it and I never bothered to change it.
Looking at it now it appears obviously wrong as the pushrod angles down quite a bit.
I will switch that around in the morning which will also give the pushrod a much more direct inline travel.
Good catch. Thanks
There is a October float fly weekend sponsored by the SBRCM club. at Cachuma lake above Santa Barbara. I should be there with my HU-16 . the lake capacity is about 80% , they should have four event weekends for next year with the current levels. I and trying to plan a weekend at lake Tahoe next year with two forum people that live there
Last edited by nsr500v; Aug 27, 2019 at 12:08 AM.


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