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May 06, 2019, 05:47 AM
Registered User

Disconnect or isolate lights to avoid control problems.


Quote:
Originally Posted by J Mitchel
I want to share my experience in the hopes it may help someone else.
As I assembled my Albatross, I noticed that my elevator servo seemed to be slow to respond and show some weirdness. If you see this, consider going direct to the receiver without a Y cable.

Details:
If I moved my stick forward or rearward, it seemed to be a second or so before anything happened and when it did happen, it did not seem proportional. Almost as if there was a delay and instead of 1024 resolution, there was 64 resolution.

I tried the water rudder servo (which was not being used, but was left installed) in the elevator connection and got the same results. I tried a brand new HXT900, which is a perfect drop in fit, but might not be strong enough, and also got the same results.

When I tried direct to the receiver, without the factor Y cable (with one y going to the lights), no problems on all three servos. I got rid of the Y, put the elevator directly into the receiver and the lights into the bind spot and all is well. I removed the water rudder servo at this point, since I removed the water rudder and figured I could save a few grams.

Thanks for reading, Jeff
Thanks Jeff for your investigation of this electrical wiring/lighting DESIGN /quality control error! In my opinion lights are nice to have but not needed for daytime flying. The lights must be drawing additional power from the one or two Battery Elimination Circuit and this causes erratic elevator servo speed and thus centering. Pilots should confirm and check with a WATTMETER/voltmeter.

A safer and wiser way to fly would be not to connect lights at all during daytime flying. Then for those ďFredexĒ pilots that sunset fly......re connect the lights. Or better yet isolate the lights on a separate battery circuit with a hidden toggle or slide switch mounted inside the cockpit/cabin . That would eliminate potential control problems that could cause crash damage!

This is a link to the Castle Creations Battery Eliminator Circuit comparison chart. Note part number 010-0153-00 that is waterproof and provides 7-10 amps. Iíll be disconnecting lights and plugging this in rather than using the Aerostar ESC unit(s).

http://www.castlecreations.com/en/cc...ro-010-0004-01
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May 06, 2019, 07:23 AM
Retired 1SG
smeag's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by J Mitchel
I hope to maiden in two weeks due to work commitments. Tom's 3d printed engines, some weathering and painting and she is sporting differential throttle on a switch, similar to how I have my PBY set up.

The Grumman HU-16 Albatross is a large twin–radial engine amphibious flying boat that was used by the United States Air Force (USAF), the U.S. Navy (USN) and the U.S. Coast Guard (USCG), primarily as a search and rescue aircraft. Its deep-V hull cross-section and keel length enable it to land in the open sea. The Albatross was designed for optimal 4-foot (1.2 m) seas, and could land in more severe conditions, but required JATO (jet-assisted take off, or simply booster rockets) for takeoff in 8–10-foot (2.4–3.0 m) seas or greater. When converted to air yacht standards, they run between $350k-$1mm. http://cbaviation.com/1951-grumman-a...-hu16b-n866ha/
This one, at 63 inch wingspan, is substantially less expensive.

Hey J Mitchel Nice pictures.......Looking at them it looks like your outboard wings are drooping. It may be an optical illusion to my eyes, but did you make sure the small metal spars had the right orientation? Like I said it might just be my eyes. Good luck on your maiden flight.


Sorry I should have kept reading, some other eagle eyed folks caught it as well. Good luck with the flight
Last edited by smeag; May 06, 2019 at 07:27 AM. Reason: added to it
May 06, 2019, 10:54 AM
Aussie freezing in Holland
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rampage
3s on a CZC? Yeah I could see that being sketchy since it's designed for 4-6 cell.

Albatross, 10+ minutes easy with a 3s 4000, with plenty of power left for some step-taxi practice. Still takes off at half throttle and is lighter for it.
Durafly Slow Poke on 3s not the czc.
The CZC was over powered with a bigger motor and bigger prop for unlimited vertical.
For Alby I have 2 x 3300 3s that I could try and I have ordered a 4500 4s just to try.
I brought 6200 6s for the CZC but didnt get any more flight time than with 4000 6s due to the extra weight.
May 06, 2019, 03:32 PM
Registered User

Mighty Seabird


Barry Schiff wrote an excellent article on the Mighty Seabird. Video also.

https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/...cht-in-the-air
May 06, 2019, 03:39 PM
Registered User
Bill Glover's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by J Mitchel
I hope to maiden in two weeks due to work commitments. Tom's 3d printed engines, some weathering and painting and she is sporting differential throttle on a switch, similar to how I have my PBY set up.
Lovely pictures ... convinced me that dummy engines should be my next job! They will reduce cooling to the ESCs a bit but hopefully all will be OK. Easy enough to check the temps straight after a flight.
Latest blog entry: Eachine QX65 FPV quad review
May 06, 2019, 04:58 PM
killickb
killickb's Avatar
Motor mounts still not available as spare part. Donít suppose anyone knows if one of the available HK motor mounts will fit the Albatross ?
May 06, 2019, 06:05 PM
Head NEAT geek
Tom Hunt's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by killickb
Motor mounts still not available as spare part. Donít suppose anyone knows if one of the available HK motor mounts will fit the Albatross ?
no, sorry, they are special molded parts for this model.
May 06, 2019, 08:45 PM
Registered User

Dihedral corrected


Thanks to some eagle eyed pilots, I have the dihedral corrected on my bird. Thank you!
BTW, those screws were SO MUCH easier to get in that way!

Jeff



Quote:
Originally Posted by smeag
Hey J Mitchel Nice pictures.......Looking at them it looks like your outboard wings are drooping. It may be an optical illusion to my eyes, but did you make sure the small metal spars had the right orientation? Like I said it might just be my eyes. Good luck on your maiden flight.


Sorry I should have kept reading, some other eagle eyed folks caught it as well. Good luck with the flight
May 07, 2019, 02:18 AM
Registered User
Bill Glover's Avatar

3D printed engines ...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Hunt
Front portion of the dummy engine came out much better the second time. I completely rebuilt the 3d model with thicker sections.
Hey Tom (and any others using his 3D printed dummy engines).

Are you using the rear parts, or just the front? The fronts are fine, but the rears come up as unprintable (via FDM or SLS) on the service I use, due to wall thickness issues. Shapeways "fixes" the file but is a lot more expensive (and a lot slower).

??
Latest blog entry: Eachine QX65 FPV quad review
May 07, 2019, 05:41 AM
Head NEAT geek
Tom Hunt's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover
Hey Tom (and any others using his 3D printed dummy engines).

Are you using the rear parts, or just the front? The fronts are fine, but the rears come up as unprintable (via FDM or SLS) on the service I use, due to wall thickness issues. Shapeways "fixes" the file but is a lot more expensive (and a lot slower).

??
Sorry Bill

I find it strange though, because the front has probably just as many "thin" fins on it. is there an option to print anyway, ignoring the warning/error?

Tom
May 07, 2019, 06:30 AM
Ex RAF Techie
davylah's Avatar
I used the 3d print engines, but somebody at work (who builds his own printers) printed them for me. He said he'd had to mess about with the model a little, to get it to print, but didn't elaborate. I do know he's printed one out scaled up to 400mm diameter to mount a clock in, for his workshop
May 07, 2019, 06:41 AM
Registered User
Bill Glover's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Hunt
is there an option to print anyway, ignoring the warning/error?
Unfortunately not. I've ordered the fronts ... will have to try a few more places for the back parts!

Out of interest, this was the analysis for the front section. I assume it was the extra part in the centre that made the difference to the overall 'printable' percentage.
Last edited by Bill Glover; May 07, 2019 at 06:47 AM.
May 07, 2019, 09:18 AM
Registered User

Wing mount


Anybody else have this issue. As you can see in the pic's, my wing won't sit flush with the fuse. It's very tight and I can't go any further without removing some foam from either the bottom of the wing or on the fuse. Thanks! MarkName: IMG_1060[1].JPG
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May 07, 2019, 09:47 AM
Registered User
[QUOTE=rch37;41805261]Anybody else have this issue. As you can see in the pic's, my wing won't sit flush with the fuse. It's very tight and I can't go any further without removing some foam from either the bottom of the wing or on the fuse. Thanks!
Mark

Yes, I have this same issue. Looks way too tight to just crank it down. Unless someone here says differently I will do some fitting. Still want a snug fit but as received, I would be worried about damaging something to just tighten it down.

Ed
May 07, 2019, 10:04 AM
Registered User
BerndM's Avatar
Mine seemed quite snug also but I just kept on slowly tightening it down until it was seated perfectly. (YMMV).
I suspect that it it intended to be quite tight so as to make the wing to saddle fit as watertight as possible in case the bird ends up floating upside down.


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