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Jun 11, 2019, 06:25 AM
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Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Hanger
A look at a posiblie sail plane linkage.
This is in my Skipjack.
https://www.cliffhangershideout.com/Skipjack/sail11.jpg

Then the control rod in the cylinder comes out near the top of the rear cap.
I have magnets on the control rod coming out of the cylinder and magnets on the control rod going to the sail planes control horn.

Here is the magnet connector.
The rod going to the left goes to the sail plane control horn.
http://www.cliffhangershideout.com/s...3/z-cut-91.jpg
Looks fairly simple, the only issue I see is how to connect the rod to the control horn in the sail as the hull can't be splitted. With the sail mounted the horn can't be reached and with the sail off it can't be connected. More magnets maybe...

Thank you for the pictures and explanation, it helps alot!
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Jun 11, 2019, 06:50 AM
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m_eye_flying's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by evolve
Looks fairly simple, the only issue I see is how to connect the rod to the control horn in the sail as the hull can't be splitted. With the sail mounted the horn can't be reached and with the sail off it can't be connected. More magnets maybe...

Thank you for the pictures and explanation, it helps alot!
Maybe it is possible looking back at Druiz100 concept on page 6 where you use a PVC pipe (cut out sections of pipe) and the top hull section with sail is seperate, bow and stern seeprate. Perhaps making the hull more accesible would lean toward being able to use movable sails if someone wanted to take it to that level. Druiz100 design reminds my of RCSubs.cz kit concept where the printed a RC sub using a Prusa printer.
Jun 11, 2019, 07:32 AM
Registered User
If you want the sail planes to be operational, there should be a way to get the control rod to them.
=============
But if it is going to be a lot of work you might consider making them stationary.
Fix the sail planes level witht he boat's keel.
The stern planes will move the boat up and down nicely.
Once set at low speed, I can dive and surface using just the trim slider on the Tx.

Only my Skipjack has movable sail planes.
The Gato I am working on will have working bow planes.
My Akula II and George Washington have fixed planes.

Where I use the sail planes to dive and rise the Skipjack, I use the rear planes on the Akula II and GW.
I have the sail planes on a rotation control on the Tx and I use the same control for the rear planes on the boats that do not have working sail or bow planes.
This way, I am always using the same control on the Tx to control depth.
Last edited by Cliff Hanger; Jun 13, 2019 at 09:38 AM.
Jun 13, 2019, 09:04 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Hanger
Where I use the sail planes to dive and rise the Skipjack, I use the rear planes on the Akula II and GW.
I have the sail planes on a rotation control on the Tx and I use the same control for the rear planes on the boats that do not have working sail or bow planes.
This way, I am always using the same control on the Tx to control depth.
Do you have both sail and rear planes on the same channel on the Skipjack? i.e. rather traversing up/down than rotating the sub to dive and rise?
Jun 13, 2019, 09:33 AM
Registered User
My Akula II and Skipjack are on the same Tx.
There is not adjustments on the Tx so all adjustments are mechanical in each boat.

The Tx is a F-14 with 6 channels.
Two vertical sticks on the left side.

Skipjack controls
Left to right.
throttle
rear planes
rudder (up and down)
empty (side to side)

Two knobs at top,
Left side is sail planes
Right is ballast piston

Akula II controls
throttle
rear planes
rudder
Ballast piston

The controls are the same but I use the sail planes on the Skipjack and the rear planes on the Akula II.
The Akula II bow planes are fixed in place.

https://www.cliffhangershideout.com/skipjack7/txf14.jpg
Jun 13, 2019, 09:45 AM
Registered User
I also have the pitch controller on only the rear planes.

I adjust the rear planes on the Skipjack to hold the hull level at periscope depth and do not touch that control again.
I use the sail planes to raise and lower the boat.

The Akula II runs level when there is not control input.
The slider trim is used to get the boat running level and the ballast is used to get the depth.

These boats, once trimmed underway, will hold depth for hours.
I only use the rudder and throttle.
Rudder to go where I want and trottle to keep from having colisions with other boats. (full stop or reverse for colision avoidence)

When I run these boats, they are in the water 2 to 3.5 hours without being taken out.
If I want to talk or go get a drink I just bottom the boat in front of my chair and let it sit there.
About 4' of water.
The water is clear and others can see it sitting on the bottom and stay above it.
Jun 13, 2019, 03:09 PM
Registered User
tchalfant's Avatar
Ralph and I run our subs at the same pond when our schedules line up and we both make it down to LA fun run (or unofficial gatherings)
One photo shows a sub parking lot (slightly cloudy water) with my Walrus, Ralph's Alpha, and Will's (or Neil's) Delta and the other photo is my son running my Sj÷ormen (showing the usual clear water).
Aug 18, 2019, 09:45 AM
jlc
jlc
Registered User
Hello to all.
I am building this sub designed on Autodesk 3D fusion to be printed (PLA) on my Anet A8.
This is the last french furtive nuclear attack submarine class Barracuda.
The sub will be 82.5 cm length using a WTC from Maximus Modellbau.
Happy to share some tips with you on PLA sub building.
I recently computed all the PLA volumes to get Archimede thrust.
Anyhow it works if the PLA is made waterproof otherwise the thrust will change and it may sink.
To do it I am using epoxy resin (XTC-3D kit). Need several layers and sand each time with water glass paper.
I got a smooth surface at the end to be paint.
I would like to test also Yatchcare Gelcoat spray but out of stock actually due to its success.
Tell me your experiences about this ?
Aug 31, 2019, 03:36 PM
Registered User
https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/a...t%20endcap.JPG
1. I think this end section seems to have some bad surface to attach to, how do you do?
2. What do you use for gasket in the grooves to seal so that no water enters the tube? I don't find any good.
Aug 31, 2019, 06:37 PM
Registered User
tchalfant's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neptun
https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/a...t%20endcap.JPG
1. I think this end section seems to have some bad surface to attach to, how do you do?
2. What do you use for gasket in the grooves to seal so that no water enters the tube? I don't find any good.
Not sure I understand what bad surface you are referring to, but that design is used a lot. Buna-N O-rings are used to seal it.
Aug 31, 2019, 07:22 PM
Registered User
End caps with o-rings work well.
Simple to make and you can find suppliers who make and sell them.

I make my own on a drill press with hand made cutter.

https://www.cliffhangershideout.com/...k/cylcap11.jpg
https://www.cliffhangershideout.com/...k/cylcap15.jpg
Sep 01, 2019, 01:30 AM
Registered User

O Rings


Thanks! Although I have not found any O ring in the right dimension, it gets too crowded in the tube with these 2.56 mm. Should I put in a lathe and adjust the lid and grooves for O rings, or is it better to look for thinner O rings.
Sep 01, 2019, 05:30 AM
Registered User
IF your caps are not sliding in to the cylinder.
If you grease the o-rings and they do not go in the cylinder.
If you can not push on the o-ring with a tool or wooden block to get the o-ring to go inside the cylinder

there are a couple of things you can check.

If the width of the groove is the same as the o-ring it is too tight.
The groove should be wider than the o-ring to allow it to spread in the groove allowing the o-ring to flatten out as it goes in to the cylinder.
The groove should be more square than rounded at the bottom of the groove.
A rounded groove will not let the o-ring spread out, it holds it rounds.

Making the groove deeper should be after making sure the groove is wide enough.

I cut the groove wider but I use a small jeweler file to make the groove deeper if needed.
Then follow with 2oo grit wet/dry sand paper.

While test fitting o-ring in groove and in to the cylinder, I use water to wet the o-ring.
I also taper the end of the cylinder slightly to help guide the o-ring in to compression.
Sep 02, 2019, 11:41 AM
Registered User

O rings


What dimensions do you have on the O ring?
What dimensions do you have in the track?
Tried new O ring today 1.2 mm but it leaked water as I filled water in the tube.
They are pretty tight in the track, do they have to be turned out a little?
Sep 02, 2019, 12:05 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Hanger
End caps with o-rings work well.
Simple to make and you can find suppliers who make and sell them.

I make my own on a drill press with hand made cutter.

https://www.cliffhangershideout.com/...k/cylcap11.jpg
https://www.cliffhangershideout.com/...k/cylcap15.jpg
I can't see the pictures...


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