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Jun 03, 2019, 01:56 PM
Registered User
Hi @david46 a few questions.

Is that the shapeways bellcrank? Does it fit that chassis well ?(same one I have)
What servo model are you using with it, also what is the length of that servo link?

I want to make something similar are you using a screw to secure the links?

Are those custom turnbuckles(converted steering link) or are they a specific brand?

What are your favorite tires to get? So far mine are getting rough

Those are cool cars you have, i'm building one up slowly and I'm having a lot of fun collecting parts. I'm considering going brushless, as mine gets heavier and heavier if you have any tips let me know.
-PJ
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Jun 09, 2019, 07:44 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjmoto
Hi @david46 a few questions.

Is that the shapeways bellcrank? Does it fit that chassis well ?(same one I have)
What servo model are you using with it, also what is the length of that servo link?

I want to make something similar are you using a screw to secure the links?

Are those custom turnbuckles(converted steering link) or are they a specific brand?

What are your favorite tires to get? So far mine are getting rough

Those are cool cars you have, i'm building one up slowly and I'm having a lot of fun collecting parts. I'm considering going brushless, as mine gets heavier and heavier if you have any tips let me know.
-PJ
Hello
1-the bellcrank fits exactly to the chassis

2-the servo is https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F264261859475

3-the stirring links are
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F173919316629

4-i am using ball screws to fasten the links

5- my favorite wheels and tires are from 3 racing
Jun 21, 2019, 12:12 PM
RV1
RV1
Registered User
Thank you guys for the great knowledge and inspiration!

I'm jumping in on the lt832 too and in micro cars in general, car should be arriving tomorrow very surprisingly fast from a Chinese eBay seller.

I ordered a mini q 2in1 ($10, I think it binds with fs tx), Alibaba bearing set ($2.50), Tamiya mini4wd Boomerang pink body, ($8 "overnight" from Japan, hope it fits with some modding)

And an ECX Ruckus ($20 open box) just because.

This might be a long shot, but I'm wondering if Roost and Ruckus share the diff and if I can remove the front diff from Ruckus (make it 2wd) and then reuse that in the lt832, so at the end of the day I'd have 2 metal diff 2wd vehicles to race with my daughter.

I didn't disassemble the ruckus yet to see if the diff or the transmission are actually metal.

Anyone used any 1/24 Ruckus parts?
Any other thoughts?

RV


Quote:
Originally Posted by tec9
Wow guys I got some catching up to do brilliant job...... David you said I can use the diff from the ecx roost on my Lt832s is this correct how would it fit as it's for 1/24 scale?? and also can i use the ecx diff on my micro rally x 1/24?? Thanks
Last edited by RV1; Jun 21, 2019 at 11:25 PM.
Jun 22, 2019, 12:38 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by RV1
Thank you guys for the great knowledge and inspiration!

I'm jumping in on the lt832 too and in micro cars in general, car should be arriving tomorrow very surprisingly fast from a Chinese eBay seller.

I ordered a mini q 2in1 ($10, I think it binds with fs tx), Alibaba bearing set ($2.50), Tamiya mini4wd Boomerang pink body, ($8 "overnight" from Japan, hope it fits with some modding)

And an ECX Ruckus ($20 open box) just because.

This might be a long shot, but I'm wondering if Roost and Ruckus share the diff and if I can remove the front diff from Ruckus (make it 2wd) and then reuse that in the lt832, so at the end of the day I'd have 2 metal diff 2wd vehicles to race with my daughter.

I didn't disassemble the ruckus yet to see if the diff or the transmission are actually metal.

Anyone used any 1/24 Ruckus parts?
Any other thoughts?

RV
Yes the differential gears are metal in the ecx but
I can tell you that it doesn't work to change the gears between the ecx and the lt832!!!!

The gear box and the differential gears in the lt832 are much bigger and the pitch diameter are different then the ecx ones.

It is only possible with the original micro-t gear box and gears!!!!
I can definitely recommend you from my experience to throw the lt832 to the garbage it is only worth for some spare parts for the original micro-T!!!

There is only one thing that you can do with the ecx =to upgraded with brushless system.
You will have much more 4wd fun with this micro car than with the lt832!!!!!
Last edited by david46; Jun 22, 2019 at 01:18 AM.
Jun 22, 2019, 10:46 AM
RV1
RV1
Registered User
Thank you for the tip, David!
Where to get good wheels for the ECX? Are the alloy upgrades from Hot Racing worth it?
The D shaped section of the stock wheel (Ruckus) brakes too easily. I read from the ECX thread that after bearings are installed I can tighten the wheel nuts more and that should help.
Jun 26, 2019, 09:50 AM
Registered User

Tom B


Hi Guys,

Not sure if these are still popular, but I took the chance while they are so cheep, and bought all three.

A few comments/tips on how to make these cars good for next to nothing! :

Whilst the servo is not smooth and the trim adjustment seems really bad, this car can be improved massively without changing any electronics at all. In fact, I would say that you should fix these things before ANY other mods. You might find the car doesn't need electronic upgrades at all, and if you do it will be even better!

1) front wheels wobble due to poorly fitting bush/bearing unit. The black grommets that sit inside the wheels to act as a 'bearing', is poorly made. These vary in size, and none of them are a tight fit. Of course this is partly to help the freewheeling of the front wheels, but I would sacrifice this for accuracy / fun handling.

I experimented by adding some very tiny pieces of electrical tape to enlarge the grommets so they sit snug. This improved stability of the front wheels BIG time, but it means they dont spin freely. Its not bad, in fact I would say it has zero affect on the speed of the car, just makes it way more fun & precise to drive. Now it does donuts in both directions, so this has helped the wheel geometry stay consistent.

I have also bought some losi micro T bearings ( 7 delivered). Although, they seem perhaps too wide? I am struggling to get these to fit perfectly, but maybe someone has some tips for me?

2) Front axels are very wobbly / loose. I have used a small square of gorilla tape, and pushed the axel through it and into the C-hub. This means that when it pierced the gorilla tape, it took some with it and that helped to hold the axel tight in its shaft. Then, the remaining piece at the end of the axel, helps to fill the small gap between the axel flange and c hub. This makes the axels stable, resulting in even less wheel wobble.

3) the servo saver is very loose. I would fully tighten it, and add a small washer or two. This will restrict the overall movement, and allow faster return and less chance of snagging. Unfortunately, its possible with all three cars I have, that the wheels get stuck off centre ( saver is not returning freely from one direction, same on all cars). This causes lots of people to adjust the trim, then it will pop back and the trim is out again. You can also glue the saver solid. But then you will put more wear on the small plastic components in the suspension & steering. So I would try to fix it allowing a little movement.

4) finally. the arm/rack which connects to the servo pin, is poorly made. There is play where the servo pin seats. Fixed by adding some gorilla tape. Now there isnt 1mm play, which is amplified through the steering system, so its less likely to need trim adjustment.

There is one more problem here. When the steering is at full, the steering arm moves slightly in a vertical motion. In fact, I would suggest this play is always there, causing further strange/unpredictable steering & handling. I fixed this, by padding out the servo (yes, using gorilla tape), on its base (towards the back of the car) close to the battery. This pushed the servo forwards in the car slightly, and when the cover was put back on, it held EVERYTHING tightly in place. The eliminated basically all of the remaining strange behaviour on the car, and now it handles brilliantly.

Sure, you need to be precise to make gentle turns, but its a much much better car. I dont need to use the trim adjustment AT ALL now.

Still undecided on which model I prefer. The longer wheelbases do work well, and do really cool donuts. Whereas the shorter wheelbase is extremely agile and tight turning, it also like to pop wheelies more. It turns sharper, but doesn't seem to like to over steer with power on.

Thats my 2 pence.

Oh. yeh. I bought a 7.4 volt 2s and plugged it in. This fried the board immediately. So dont do that. Haha.
Jun 28, 2019, 11:35 PM
Car Bashing
Jym73's Avatar
Hi and welcome,

Thanks for your complet feedback. In this thread you will find many useful upgrade do improve this car, which is, imo, unsusable as it is out of the box. I only used it one time and put it back in his box to wait to do modification. Ican3D gave very useful information to improve the eletronic by using WLtoys 1/24 esc, which allow to use a different (and better) steering servo and Lipo batteries.

If you want to go with "top" upgrades you can follow the David46 upgrades.
Aug 17, 2019, 11:08 AM
Registered User
Hi. In this theme I found that differential sattellite gears stripps fast enough, especially with 2s. But I didn't find if the pinion and spur gears stripps fast too? May I just lock the diff using glue and continue playing this car?
Aug 18, 2019, 12:52 AM
ultra cheap pilot
ican3d's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RT101
Hi. In this theme I found that differential sattellite gears stripps fast enough, especially with 2s. But I didn't find if the pinion and spur gears stripps fast too? May I just lock the diff using glue and continue playing this car?
You can lock the diff and drive it but the cornering performance will not be as good as before. Steering cornering will be slower, bigger turrning radius and struggling on solid flat surface. But locked diff will be advantages on loose surface such as sand or slippery places will make a good solid basher since torque on both side of the wheels are equal...good for drag racing.
Aug 18, 2019, 02:09 AM
Registered User
Thanks!
The reason why I'am interesting , I liked how the buggy lt832B seems. I was very disappointed of the fact that wltoys A2x2 series stripps its 8T gears (on cenral shaft) fast. Even brass ones are not much better, as I found in A2x2 theme. Now searhing for fast house car. Wltoys L939 seems ok, becouce it is light and can burn out very easily to safe plastic gears. But I owned it before, something new is needed. Also looking to A959, but it is pretty big for house run. JJRC Q35/36 is kind of Wltoys K9x9/P9x9 series, and the same gear trouble expected.
Anyways, would great to find any simple solution for lt832, except a exclusive Losi Micro T metal gears
Aug 19, 2019, 07:40 PM
ultra cheap pilot
ican3d's Avatar
I have Wl-toys A212 but still way to big for inhouse bashing. The LT832 series still wins when bashing and flying off the tables and furniture yet very durable.
Aug 21, 2019, 09:04 AM
Registered User

On sale again


26.74 at that auction site as buy it now. Free shipping
Aug 21, 2019, 09:21 AM
Registered User

Ordered one


I broke my golden rule and ordered one while on sale. I will normally never buy any RC that parts are not available for and so far there are no parts listed anywhere I can find. I enjoyed the Micro T back in the day, and although this is supposed to be an exact clone, most of the Micro T parts are no longer available and those that are available are the ones that do not break easily. I think if they start selling repair parts for the LT832, they will sell much better. Many people think like I do, no parts....no buy...
Aug 21, 2019, 10:49 AM
Registered User
I like that car very much. But the most problem is gear stripping. I'am looking forward to find some simple solution. For example like that.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Long-Dual-S...sAAOSwfVpYv6~W
Just imagine if we could take smth like that, cut extra shaft long, make slits to fix dogbones and replace that gearbox very fast if it stripped.
Or like this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-RC...MAAOSwLeFcPp~~
Just find 2 pinion gears, make slits on them to fix dogbones. Direct connection from motor to wheels without any gears! To achive 30 km/h ~4500 rpm is needed, This motor has 4300 rpm/7.4 v - perfect. Solid motor mount just needed
Aug 21, 2019, 06:34 PM
ultra cheap pilot
ican3d's Avatar
I haven't worn out any parts yet, just stock gearing and motor with 2s lipo bashing everyday. Maybe i'm very conservative with the throttle control during acceleration and landing after jumps. Planning to get my fourth for next custom build.

As for spare parts, $33 for everything as whole is cheaper then buying losi atomic hop-ups per-parts.


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