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Jul 05, 2018, 10:51 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
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74" Laser V2 from Extreme Flight RC

The 74" Laser from Extreme Flight RC has arrived!!! I was fortunate to have a V1 and the plane was amazing in every aspect. I powered mine with the XPwr 35cc and the Castle Creations Edge HV 120. It was a fantastic combination and that plane was so much fun to fly. Now we have version 2 and the new construction techniques should yield a slightly lighter and stronger airframe. I was able to get mine at Joe Nall 2018 and life has been so busy since JN that I am just now getting to assembling it. So lets jump in and get this plane in the air.
First a list of what is needed. I highly recommend metal gear servos that are 400oz or more torque, I am using JR8911 which are roughly 475oz at 7.4V and metal gear, but not aluminum cased servos. If you want to go with aluminum case servos all the better, IMO they are better than plastic cased servos. You will need 4 of these high torque servos and if using a gas motor then another servo for the throttle.

1. 4 high torque metal gear servos (<400oz in)
2. XPwr 35 or DA35 or equivalent
3. Prop, I am using the XPwr 35cc so the Falcon E prop 21X10
4. Spinner 3.5"
5, Fuel tank if using gas, 12oz or 14oz is enough and a fuel dot/at least 2 6S 3700 (+- 300mah) lipos if using XPwr
6. 5ch receiver minimum
7. Servo extensions: 2-3" for ailerons exiting the wing/2-6"out of RX for ailerons/1-24" elevator/1-24" rudder only if using push pull, no extension if using pull pull...if using gas motor then a 12" extension for the throttle servo
8. If using XPwr 35cc, then use the Blazing Star XL standoffs
9. Servo arms, I used 1.5" for the ailerons and elevator, and a 2" for the rudder on a pushpull setup and a 4" for pull pull
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Jul 08, 2018 at 09:47 PM.
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Jul 05, 2018, 10:52 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
I like to start with the wings and ailerons, first I do the hinging, then mount the control horn, then mount the servo and hook up the pushrod assembly to the servo.
I begin by scuffing and cleaning each pin hinge, using 100 grit paper to scuff it and rubbing alcohol to clean it I do all the hinges for both wings. Once this is complete I mix some 30 minute epoxy and using a bamboo skewer I drop some epoxy in each hole of the wing. Getting 3 drops of glue in the hole then putting my skewer into the hole and swabbing the stick in the hole it ensures a coating of glue. I do this to each hole, then take the pin hinge and apply a little Vaseline to the center (all around the center) to keep excess epoxy from getting in the hinge and cause binding. You must keep that center pivot portion of the hinge absolutely clean and free of any glue/debris. At this time I am only gluing the pin hinges into the wing, once dry I fit the aileron to the wing using the same techniques. When dry, I install the control horn/base plate, I airbrush mine to have a color match. If you don't paint yours be sure to scuff the portion that will go into the slots. I also dry fit the control horn/base plate to be sure then go in the slot fully, occasionally then won't go flush and there is a little glue or foreign material in the slot. I have always been able to clean the slot with an Xacto, but this rarely happens. With the control horn and base plate dry fitted, trim the covering around the base plate, be sure to leave a little under the base plate as we don't want any bare wood showing. Also be sure you don't cut down into the balsa while trimming this covering, take your time here. Once this is all dry fitted to satisfaction, glue the control horn and base plate using 30 minute epoxy. Once this is dry I install the aileron servo into the servo bay, secure the servo with 4 servo screws and then center the servo. Now you can put the ball links onto each end of the pushrod, center the servo and aileron and trial fit the pushrod to see if the ball links need to moved for proper fit. Once this is satisfactory then install the 3mm X16 bolts, washer, locknut. Note that the servo end of the pushrod with have the conical against the servo arm and then the ball link on top of that.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Jul 08, 2018 at 10:08 PM.
Jul 05, 2018, 10:53 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
I hinged the elevator pretty much at the same time as the wings, they are done the same way as the wings. Similar to the wings, I glue the hinges to the horizontal first. As soon as the glue dries I mate the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer. Next I install the control horn, be sure to dry fit the control horn/base plate and trim that covering under the base plate to achieve a base plate to wood glue joint. At this point I went ahead and installed the elevator servo in the fuselage. I will hook up the servo later.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Jul 08, 2018 at 09:54 PM.
Jul 05, 2018, 10:58 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
With the wings and tail basically assembled we move to the tailwheel. It installs exactly like previous EF tailwheels. I centered the tailwheel swivel point exactly under the rudder hinge line, then centered it again side to side and used a centering drill to make some pilot holes. Next I put the screws in to hold the tailwheel, when doing something like this I put a tiny drop of thin CA on the threads of the wood screw and then install it. I find the CA works like thread lock and really holds those screws into the wood. I use this method on all my servo screws too. There is a 2mm black ball link in the tailwheel assembly that will go into the bottom of the rudder. You can install this now or when you install the rudder but I do it now. So I held the rudder up to the hingeline to see where I needed to locate the ball link. I like to have about an inch of the tiller arm going thru the eye of the ball link so once I found this I drilled a 1/8" hole and then scuffed the ball link where it will go into the wood and glued it with 30 minute epoxy.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Jul 29, 2018 at 07:38 AM.
Jul 05, 2018, 11:00 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
OK now lets get it up on its legs. You will find the 4 larger bolts are for mounting the gear to fuse. It is fine to install the gear now onto the fuse now or you can put the tires/pants/cuffs all on and then install the gear the fuse. However, I find it much easier to install the gear then the other items. OK so once the gear is installed, then slide the cuffs on, very difficult to describe which way they go but there is a front and back, trial fit them and you will see one way fits snug and the other way leaves gaps. To secure the cuffs I use foam tac glue, I find where the cuff will rest and put a piece of tape there so I know where to lay a glob of foam tac, then I slide the cuff up to the glob of glue and secure the cuff with masking tape to hold it in place. This will need to dry overnight and there are many other glues that will work. Next I trial fit the axle, tire, wheel pant to see about where the tire will need to be so it does not rub on the pant. Once I find this I grind two flat spots, one on each outer side of the tire, so the collar will have a flat spot to secure itself. Next I put the axle into the gear and orient the flat spots to the bottom/ground. If you have an airplane stand it really helps and have the plane upside down. Next slide a collar on, then the tire, then the other collar and finally the pant over the assembly and fit it into place. Once you have the desired location of your tire/collars then tighten the collars and be sure to add blue thread lock to the small set screws. Now position the pant as desired and drill your hole into the pan and install the blind nut. You may need to drill the wheel pant hole a little larger to accomodate the blind nut, I also apply a small drop of thin CA under the flange of the blind nut to help it hold in position. Now reinstall the pant and insert the 3mm bolt/washer and apply blue thread lock and tighten. Repeat this to the other side of the gear and be sure the pant matches the angle of the existing pant.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Jul 28, 2018 at 06:00 PM.
Jul 05, 2018, 11:02 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
I am using the 35cc XPwr motor so you will need the Blazing Star XL mounts, if using a DA35 the included mounts should get you there, but in either case the firewall to the front of the cowl is 6.25". With Blazing star mounts this process is so easy, just drill your holes at the appropriate marks and install the motor of choice. If using the 35cc XPwr be sure to use blue thread lock on all bolts. At this time I also located my Castle Creations 120HV Edge ESC on the side of the motor box, if using gas a similar installation may work for your ignition.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Jul 29, 2018 at 07:40 AM.
Jul 05, 2018, 11:03 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Going to install the horizontal now and the rudder. IF you had a V1 Laser then you had removable stabs, the V2 has the horizontal glued in and just one servo. EF has went to a notched style installation which makes this step quite easy, but don't get too fast. Here's why, although it seems to fit perfectly, you still need to check alignment, so yes get those wings back out and install them onto the plane, you don't have to put the wing bolts in but not a bad idea. I try to set the model where I can view it from the front and the rear, this will give me a very good sight of whether the horizontal is perfectly parallel to the wings. Also try to set the model where it will not fall or jiggle while you do this, getting the horizontal perfectly aligned is important. Now mine was ever so slightly high on the right side so after lathering with 30 minute epoxy I set a proper weight on the right side to get it exactly parallel to the wings. Once the horizontal is dry I install the rudder, if you have not already glued the hinges into the fuse portion of the vertical then do that now. Now I install the rudder control horn, it is setup for a pull pull but we will use just one side with a push pull. EF has included a laser cut ply alignment jig to make sure you get your control horns centered. I lather the slots as usual, then slide the control horns thru, you will need to clean the excess epoxy with a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol and then set the ply alignment jig onto the control horns and allow to dry. Next install the rudder, first make sure you thread the tailwheel tiller thru the ball link then slide the rudder onto the hinges and allow to dry. I elected to go with a push pull rudder so I used the remaining elevator bay for my rudder servo. Since the original design had a pull pull there is no pushrod for this. I had to make one out of carbon tubing and 3mm all thread. I also make the final hookup of my elevator servo.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Jul 28, 2018 at 09:04 PM.
Jul 05, 2018, 11:05 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
yet more assembly
Jul 05, 2018, 11:07 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
OK almost there
Jul 05, 2018, 11:10 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
this is it, 10 posts should do it, so let the conversations begin.
Jul 05, 2018, 11:44 PM
I am not a robot
Sideslip's Avatar
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for starting this thread. My V2 is getting close to completion.

I did notice a couple of things. When I dry fit the control horns for the elevator, I noticed that the horn nearest the center line would not go all the way in. Closer examination of the hole it was supposed to fit in showed that the G2 elevator connector was protruding into the hole for the horn. I just had to sand down the leading edge of the horn so it would clear the G2 connector and then installed them as normal with 30 minute epoxy.

Found some excess dabs of glue around the leading edge antirotation pin, and had to remove that so the wings would seat fully and allow the wing bolts to be installed.

On my canopy there was a little bit of lip (the skin of the canopy) that extended about 1.5mm in front of the former at the front of the canopy. The canopy fit fine without the cowl installed, but would not go on properly with the cowl in place until I took a 360 grit sanding block and sanded the front edge of the canopy until it was flush with the former.

The Laser really impresses me with the look and the finish is the best I've seen. However mine is the printed version and I do find that the finish is a little more fragile than the standard OraCote versions.

Anyway it's a beautiful plane and I hope to have it completed in time to bring it up to MEFF.

See you next thursday,

Jul 05, 2018, 11:59 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
Yes Sir!! Thank you Jeff!!! I hope to have mine by the 18th or a bit sooner, so, I'm ready to see this bad boy get built!!

I already have the servos and ESC and Tim will be shipping the motor with the plane, so, I will have most of what is needed then.

Last edited by SteveT.; Jul 06, 2018 at 12:04 AM.
Jul 06, 2018, 01:47 AM
Registered User
bob_nj's Avatar
I'm in
Mine should be here today.
It will have a gas engine
Jul 06, 2018, 07:47 AM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Sideslip, from time to time I find the slot for the control horn has some sort of debris in there. I usually just dig it out with an Xacto and it fits fine. Same with the hole for the anti-rotation or some other areas a dab of glue or something might need trimmed slightly, no bid deal. Now your cowl/canopy area still surprises me but glad it was a quick fix.
Jul 06, 2018, 10:19 AM
Try anything once!!
xxGenoxx's Avatar
Sweet..very interested in this one too..really enjoying my electric 74 slick and thinking this would be another addition

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