Logo Landing Skids - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Mar 03, 2002, 01:49 AM
1.21 Gigawatts!
Steph280's Avatar

Logo Landing Skids

How do you guys fit the tube into the landing skids on the Logo? i tried boiling the plastic piece and freezing the tube but it still is difficult to fit in. Maybe I didn't boil it enough? I just didn't want to overdo it and make the plastic lose its flexibility.

Suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Mar 03, 2002, 03:06 AM
Registered User

I have used the boiling method before but they are really tight
so I took a pen and some sand paper the material is tough so I then got brave with a dremel tool and a small grinding stone carved the insides out a tiny bit at a time and vola they still took alot to put on turning them as you push them helps alot still was very tight so I polished the skids with a bit of dish soap can help and cleans the skids to a nice shine. Wipe them off a bit leaving a coating of soap on and used force to push and turn them in. I will have a hard time getting them off .

Just take out slight amounts Gradually and try them untill they
just go on hard . With enough force mine are just a bit adjastable perfect fit I have to grunt to tun them now. If you grind out to much you can always resort to some ca or epoxy.

Yep these are the tightest skids I have ever seen.

If you are learning it is best to get a larger flexable set that you can fit to any helicopter this size or larger. Universal Tuf Struts used to be sold buy Miniature Aircraft they take a beating are much larger and a bit heavier but can save your chopper lots of parts if you are learning a new helicopter. I think I payed $25 for them and they absorb alot of parts cost.........larger and heavier is great till you get used to hovering and get it all set up and tested.

Mar 03, 2002, 03:10 AM
Our Daddy and Heli Junkie
Fred Bronk's Avatar
Hmm, Mine slid right in and I had to use CA to hold them in place.
Mar 03, 2002, 06:26 AM
Registered User
Mine were real tight too - I used a monokote heat gun on the end to soften it up enough to slip them in.
Mar 03, 2002, 12:03 PM
1.21 Gigawatts!
Steph280's Avatar
Thanks for the great suggestions. Looks like I'll give the heatgun method a try.

And I thought those MA TuffStrouts were difficult fit. These are rediculous. Those slide in and fix with set screw method are so much easier. But I guess every little screw count as far as weight goes.
Mar 03, 2002, 12:51 PM
Registered User
I only use the universals temporarily for set up and auto training
They are alot more weight .

I never tried a heat gun that may help. I don't know what the material is but in caution I avoided any heating or coolling as with some material it may get brittle. don't know but it looks like very
hard material really had to grind hard.

Also do you have a 9CHP ? If so I could use a few pointers
see my other post. Is there a way to turn of the tx while programing ?

Mar 03, 2002, 01:54 PM
Elder Freak
Phoenix-IT's Avatar
Yes you can turn off the TX while programming. Just remove the frequency module from the back before turning it on. Just be careful where you set the transmitter down, the pins could be bent if you set it on something that went up into the module hole.

Mar 03, 2002, 05:38 PM
Registered User

Thanks for the info .

I looked in the manual and it said nothing about that so I did not know it was safe to pull the module like the 8us.

Chad can you give me a sample data sheet or tips of how you would set up a 9CHP with the logo 10 ? I have a gy-401.

The idle ups pitch ranges , I would like to use my left slider to control the motor trim and the right to control gyro . I just want to get in a close ball park of settings and I can tweak as needed.

What to do with 5 idle ups ? The possibilities ?

Also a switch maybe idle ups to turn govenor mode on or off ? Can you do this ? another switch to cut the motor (is this possible or practicle).

What is the best way if you use a Kontronic controler ? I have not got the controler or motor yet Back Ordered.

If you don't know does anyone have experience on it yet ?

Futaba people or my dealer really are not into choppers especially electrics. This is my first electric .

I wonder if Mikado has a sample data sheet on the 9C ?

I wrote Ralph still waiting they possibly have not played with a 9C yet.

I would appreciate any ideas you or anyone else may have gleamed . I guess I am re- reading the manual and also searched on varrious other futaba groups. I have not found an experienced electric Heli pilots with a 9C yet that will share a setup.

Guess they are still tweaking.

In some ways all this flexability complicates what should be getting simpler.

Mar 03, 2002, 09:49 PM
Elder Freak
Phoenix-IT's Avatar
Well, as someone who has yet to fly I don't know what I can tell you....

I've played around with the settings and it looks like my best option for the Kontronic govenor mode is to put it on a seperate channel. The menu option is AUX-CHN I believe... I'm going to put it on my right slider with one of the unused channels. I haven't found a way to disengage and reassign channel 3 to a slider and I don't think you can. A more expensive radio probably could, but I don't have a problem using another channel.... there are plenty and thats the tradeoff we make to save 500 bucks.

I don't think I would want to switch govenor mode off in flight unless I was going to auto, and for that you can use the slider. The whole idea of the govenor is to eliminate the need to play around with throttle curves in various idle-ups. If you want to do that then leave the ESC connected to channel 3 and run the ESC in airplane mode.

The first thing I plan to do is make sure the mechanics are sound with a couple of spin ups followed by visual inspection. Then I'm going to have my friend tach the rotor as I run it on the ground with 0 pitch. Then I'll program the govenor with my desired speed at the max slider position. Then its ready... just dial in the rpm and fly.

I don't think I will play much with the idle-ups or dual rates initially... I figure I will add them as I need them. Need to know what you need to modify before you can program the system to modify it.

Mar 03, 2002, 11:53 PM
1.21 Gigawatts!
Steph280's Avatar

Sorry I have a 9Z, haven't played with a 9C long enough to suggest anything. It looks pretty straight forward though. I'll post my 9Z settings once I get it flying. Maybe it will help you with the 9Z.

Finally got the skid into the strut. I do not like the way this thing fits. The heat gun and lots of elbow grease got them in, but I noticed a slight crack on one of them. If I ever break this landing gear set (knock on wood), I know what not to get...

I just finished the tail pitch slider, and this thing is not smooth at all. The whole tail looks like a copy of the Kyosho Concept 30 tail, except it is not as smooth. I read in another post that the brass tube gets compressed by the pitch lever when threaded on, that might be the cause of this.

The building continues...
Mar 04, 2002, 12:13 AM
-Flight enthusiast_
gpeden's Avatar

That tight fit of the skid is not normal. Have you contacted the dealer or Mikado about this?

Mar 04, 2002, 11:53 AM
1.21 Gigawatts!
Steph280's Avatar
No I have not contacted them. I want to finish the whole kit and then write one mail about the things I observed in the kit.

The tail pitch slider roughness turns out to be the ball link. I added a drop of teflon oil on each ball and it got better. FYI, the squeeze with plier method does not work here, since the link is part of the pitch arm.

One of the self tapping screw used to hold the tailboom onto main chasis had some "shallow" thread. It does not tighten no matter which one of the 8 holes it's used. Replaced it with a similar screw from my metric hardware bin and it tightens great.

Boy this thing builds fast! It looks like a heli already after only one evening.
Mar 06, 2002, 01:17 AM
Registered User

I got one of the first kits that was shipped to USA.
The only thing that would not fit easily were the struts. In the above method using a dremel tool and a bit of dish soap they now are perfect .

I really did not concider this a defect (as I have had to fit parts from other companys that had to be taken to a local machineist just to get them to fit or balance at all.)

Maybe it is a defect hearing that others slid on easily?

I was also missing a few pieces of hardware not unusual for any kit.

I wrote Ralph about it and 4 days later a small package from europe was at my door.... rushed . Now thats service. !!!

My only little nit picks are that the ball links needed a little working in to get them to move freely a far cry from what I have seen about some other well known and loved choppers that can end us costing a lot more in mods and time than the Logo 10 only to end up with a lesser heli than the Logo 10.

I was amazed at the level of customer support they have for the logo 10. They really go the extra mile or kilometer to help the customers.

The best thing to do is an inventory and measure everything if anything else is wrong or missing they can have it to you faster this way.

I bet you will get a new one fast buy calling your dealer or writing Ralph ... or both. Ralph's office responded with an email faster than the dealer . I was very surprised.

Your struts may be craked so I would hope they will send you a new pair out probably free of charge... The Logo people are very very concerned with making customers happy.

Good luck... Take your time . Think the assembly through first and don't force anything especially the tail rotor pieces.

A little polishing and working them may help you diminish any excessive friction .
I was very pleased with the overall quality of the Kit and can only imagine that a logo 20 or 24 may be that much better.