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Jun 22, 2018, 03:40 AM
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AEOTech's Avatar
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Build New 1.4m Balsawood Glider-UZI kit

Here's another of our superb Laser Cut Balsa Kits for the traditional R/C hobbyist and builder who enjoys constructing models from kit form.

The UZI is an all built up 1400mm, 3 channel, electric powered glider.

The Kit features sharp accurate laser cut parts that simply slot together with little fuss and the wing looks fantastic when covered with transparent covering to show of the construction and your handywork.

The power system can be a simple small outrunner and 2s battery, using micro servos to keep her nice and light.

The resulting model is a great little park fly electric glider that performs well and has aileron/elevator/rudder/motor control. The UZI is tough enough to handle the odd 'oops!' moment from novice flyers and compact enough to be transported easily.

Span: 1400mm
Length: 810mm

3 Channel radio system and 2 x5g servos
MM1908 2050KV
20A Esc
2 s 800-1500mah Lipo battery
Propeller 7inch
CA glue
Covering film
Basic hobby tools (knife, sand paper etc)

If you are interested in this new item, you can order it in below link:
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Jun 23, 2018, 09:04 PM
DLG Bug Bit Me
Tim Harbour's Avatar
Looks good.
Crap canopy.
I'd definitely add flaps for a small flying area.
Oct 14, 2018, 07:02 AM
Registered User
tekochip's Avatar

Build Guide

I put one together.
Pros: Fast and easy build with a strong wing. Actual printed plans on real paper!
Cons: Several design flaws force you to modify the kit.

Start with the V tail, which is easily built per plan.

The hatch parts, Z1 - Z5 don't fit well and in the end Z5 is too tall and sticks up at the cowl. Build the hatch now so that you have a chance at making it mate with the cowl when it is built.

Lamintae F7 and F8 with F7 intended to be the bottom with laser print on the bottom.

Press the claw nut into F7. the threads of the nut are longer than the thickness of F7 and F8, so make sure that you use a doughnut shaped tool like a nut or a socket on the top side when you press it into place, or you will damage the threads. Pliers worked well for pressing the nut into place.

Cut F6 to fit servos, then look at alignment before placing in F3 and gluing in place. You may want to mount the aft servo at this time because mine wouldnt swing into place with F3 mounted. Its tight all the way around and I ended up notching F3 to make it all fit. I also had to shave off some wood from the fuse sides to allow the control horn to swing. Youll want as much throw as possible because the bird hates to turn.

C1-1 does not fit flush against the trailing edge notch. C1-1 should butt against F7 and F8. Use white glue and slide it into place under Attach F4 and F3.

Attach F1 and F2

Align C1-1 on the other C1, remembering to make a left and a right C1

Attach the new C1 to the assembly

Before attaching F0 you should decide what to do about a powerplant. I had assumed that the recommended powerplant mounted behind the firewall, but no, if you buy the recommended powerplant you will have to devise your own way to mount the motor. So, now is the time to buy a motor that mounts behind the firewall, fabricate your own motormount or attach your motor to F0 and fabricate a cowl extension. Whatever you decide, you can not build the kit stock with the recommended powerplant. I found out late and extended the cowl. Since the build will come out insanely tail heavy, this is probably your best choice.

Don't mount the carbon rod now, but you can use it to help align little F5 by sliding the rod through F5 and into F4.

Sheeting the bottom with C2 is very difficult. The radius is tight and the wood rather thick. After many hours of soaking the wood, it was still pretty tough to bend.

C3 is not the right size and needs to be trimmed. The aft portion also needs to be trimmed to make it flush with F1. Here you may want to use the hatch to help make C3 flush with the hatch. Youll need to make it sit higher than F1 for a good fit.

Careful mounting C14, one side is a little larger, so there is a right way and a wrong way.

Glue C4

Before you glue the carbon rod, look at how long your control wires are. Mine were not quite long enough for the full length of the carbon rod, so you may want to hold off gluing in the rod until youve rigged the V-tail.

C5-C13 get a little fragile as they get smaller, so use some care and mount them.
Slide all of the R15s in place along with R13 and R14, you may need to open them up a little with a 9/32" drill. Glue R14 and the R13s so that R14 is parallel with the bottom of the fuse. The two R13s hold the v-tail, so test fit the v-tail when you assemble. I had to shim for a better fit.

Slide the push rods through all the R15s. I found it easier to push the S bend into the fuse first, pull the rods through and then thread them through the R15s. The push rods help to keep everything lined up. Distribute R15s along the carbon rod and glue them in place. I liked a gap of 6 cm.

Wing Center
Pin the trailing edge L3 to the board and make sure to get the wing mount hole in the right place.

Pin a Paulownia strip in place and let the edges stick out on each side, you can trim them later.

Using a square, glue W1 and W1-4 to the trailing edge and the fore end of the Paulownia strip.

Now slide L1 into place and glue it to the aft end of the Paulownia strip. You may want to check the fit with dihedral brace L1-1, which will be added when the wings are joined.

Place L5 with the hole in the correct location and then all the hardwood ribs, which are W1s and W2. Glue in place. Make sure that you place the W1-1 and W1-3s such that there is room for the dihedral braces.

Glue the carbon rod as the leading edge. Line up the outer edge so that it is centered in the rib and trim any excess off the inner portion. This will make the wing joining look a little cleaner

Do not mount the carbon rod used to mount the wing. This rod also slides through the dihedral brace, so wait until its time to join the wings.

The outer section of the wing is built in the same fashion. When it comes time to trim the carbon rod leading edge, youll want to trim so the two leading edges match up. The outside wing panels can be joined to the inside wing panels at this time.

Joining the left and right sides of the wings is best done by using the fuselage as a guide. Slide the carbon rods used for attaching the wing to the fuse into the wings and assemble the wings to the fuselage. In this way you can make up for any inconsistencies in your build, because the carbon rods and former will not be as forgiving as the balsa is. Use white glue or epoxy to join the wings, since youll want something that cures a little slower while you clamp and make adjustments.

Final Assembly
The model came off insanely tail heavy. I had the motor mounted ahead of the firewall and added an extra cowl, but the model was still so tail heavy that I had to add two pipe nipples in the nose. There was so much bending in the thin control rods that I had to add carbon fiber tubes near the V-tail to shore them up.

Maiden Flight
The model was perfectly trim at launch with neutral controls and had plenty of power with the stock powerplant. No white-knuckle moments, it was a very smooth maiden even with wind close to 10kts. Flight was very stable with plenty of elevator, but turns are so sluggish you may find yourself begging for the nose to come around. Its a double-edged sword, because with that much stability the wings remained level in wind gusts.

Ill put a few hours in and see how she flies, but right now Im not too impressed.
Nov 14, 2018, 03:52 AM
Registered User
tekochip, hi. Tell me, please, what is the diameter of the coal tube of the fuselage?
Nov 14, 2018, 09:27 AM
Registered User
tekochip's Avatar
7mm OD 5.5 ID

My Uzi is no longer with us. The maneuverability was terrible and it couldn't out run a tree on the property. It crashed in my lane and shattered the fuse.

The wing is still in perfect condition, so I mounted it on a Sunbird fuse. Flies great!
Nov 15, 2018, 09:39 PM
Sagitta Fanboy
Originally Posted by tekochip
7mm OD 5.5 ID

My Uzi is no longer with us. The maneuverability was terrible and it couldn't out run a tree on the property. It crashed in my lane and shattered the fuse.

The wing is still in perfect condition, so I mounted it on a Sunbird fuse. Flies great!
A quick sanity check one the pictures show very little dihedral/polyhedral for a RES design. It's either going to need a LOT of rudder authority or the tip angle increased notably.

The designer should have run the design through a good sailplane calculator, like the one Curtis Suter publishes.
Aug 29, 2020, 04:37 PM
Registered User

Gordon Ross

I have just built this kit and found i had to put ply doublers under the elevater horns to prevent the balsa splitting. I also had to sand and re-fit all canopy parts, to get a flush fit.

The fuselage floor should be soaked in boiling water for ten minutes, before being glued. Steam would be even better. The wing has polyhedral at the centre and outer panels but only about 5 degrees, so it turns fairly level.

My models CG came out 1 cm behind the specified position, although I only ballasted it a little to get 5mm behind the indicated position. (5cm) . This slightly rearward CG gave perfect glide trim for my model.

I had a slight motor issue on the maiden flight, having accidentally set max throttle to 70%. So climb was slow. But with extra ruddervator throws, turn rate is good now, with little elevator required in the turns. Speed controller gets a little hot, so perhaps aa cockpit vent would be nice
Dec 15, 2020, 05:55 AM
Registered User
I have build this kit in spring 2020 and have flown it over the summer, so I have some flights now to talk about.

Build was a joy with one exception - the canopy is crap so I had to sand a lot to get it flush. But no problem. I doubled the dihedral to 10 degrees at both ends. It's not much work because I only had to cut the two braces new and it seems to improve the turn rate a lot. I haven't seen a UZI with the original dihedral for now but other than the folks in this thread I can't say mine turns slow.

As the problems with fuselage bottom - tea kettle is your best friend. Some steam and the sheating goes with no problem. Only fingers get hot...

I wrote a buildlog here: Unfortunatly it's german, sorry for that.

I realy like to fly this bird. It looks great in the sky. It turns as good as any other 2 chanel glider I have flown so far. Other similiar planes I use are Hoellein Innovation, Aeronaut Quido and "Der kleine Segler" from Jonas Kessler and the UZI turns as good as any of them. For thermals, well I'm truely not shure what to think about it. I think it's not the best thermalist in the hangar and I'm a little bit dissapointed about that. On the other hand it takes more wind than my Quido and the area where fly is not the best for thermal soaring. And have I mentioned it looks great with it's V tail? Gliding is good as mentioned before and with a 2205 motor at 7x4 it goes up fast.

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