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Aug 07, 2019, 03:13 AM
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Well, there is going to be a 3m L-39..... so....
lol
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Aug 07, 2019, 03:28 AM
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lol...yeah!
But then the printer would be my least serious problem.
Do you have a wife?
Aug 18, 2019, 09:05 AM
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Lynxman's Avatar
Thread OP
I don't mind the discussion of printers here.

BTW the heat bed on my JGAurora heats up very quickly. Much faster than my smaller Wanhao or other "prusa".
Aug 19, 2019, 02:25 AM
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That’s good! I have a small update on my Sidewinder X1 printer.

It actually arrived on Saturday and I started the first print (nose4 of the EL-39) with the printer right out of the box. The slicer settings were the pre-defined Sidewinder X1 profile of S3D with some small changes.
I’m really stunned of the result. It’s not a perfect print, but a very good one. Of course, I have to tinker a bit to find the perfect slicer settings, but I have not expected such a good result.
All I did was to tighten 4 screws for the frame, connect some cables, level the bed and fill in my filament.
Lynxman, you just mentioned the bed heating process. I could not believe it first and thought of a defective sensor, but actually the bed heated up to 60C faster than the nozzle to 220C.

Before I can recommend it to anyone, I have to do more prints and find the final settings, but I’m very impressed so far.
Aug 19, 2019, 05:50 AM
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Warbirdmadman's Avatar
Great to hear the Sidewinder X1 is good out of the box.

I didn't have quite as good an experience with the Chiron. Unboxed everything, bolted it all together. Took the cover paper off the heat bed and it was cracked. Anycubic use these really large zip ties to hold some parts from moving around and the one holding the bed was pulled so tight it had cracked the glass. Contacted Anycubic and they sorted out a new bed which i received today. Have bolted it up and just doing bed leveling now.

Everything else looks good and the printer is HUGE Hopefully it prints as well as my I3 Mega. I too, have a CR-10S and that was a pain in the butt out of the box. After many upgrades it now prints pretty well, but it was a lot of figuring out with that one

Going to try the Nucking Futs in 2 prints for the fuselage. Then maybe on to a Boxfat.

On the EL-39, I finally had the landing gear shocks turn up after the first ones I ordered went to who knows where Also got the brake servo's and tomorrow my Ramtec fan and HET 590KV motor should turn up. Not 100% sure if the Ramtec is going to fit as I still don't know the mounting dimensions, so if it doesn't I will use Lynxman's fan.

Speaking of Lynxman's printed fan, which is a master piece by the way. I have printed two of these and after pushing in a steel 8mm dowel by hand and then running it up in my lathe, it doesn't run true. I have printed it on two different printers and had the same result. I guess what I am asking is, Lynxman and anyone else that has printed the fan , did your prints run true. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the fan, it might be my printers or something I'm doing wrong. Would just like to find out how true other peoples fans run. Anyway, if the Ramtec fits I will use it first and see how it goes, especially considering the temps we see in Oz, I may have trouble with a printed fan. (No disrespect to Lynxman's fan)
Last edited by Warbirdmadman; Aug 19, 2019 at 07:22 AM.
Aug 19, 2019, 06:52 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warbirdmadman
Speaking of Lynxman's printed fan, which is a master piece by the way. I have printed two of these and after pushing in a steel 8mm dowel by hand and then running it up in my lathe, it doesn't run true. I have printed it on two different printers and had the same result. I guess what I am asking is, Lynxman and anyone else that has printed the fan , did your prints run true. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the fan, it might be my printers or something I'm doing wrong. Would just like to find out how true other peoples fans run. Anyway, if the Ramtec fits I will use it first and see how it goes, especially considering the temps we see in Oz, I may have trouble with a printed fan. (No disrespect to Lynxman's fan)
It might be an optical effect only. I had this with mine, too. It looked like it doesnt run true at all but in fact, it wasnt that bad.
As every other fan, it needed some balancing, but after doing that, it runs pretty smooth now.

Nevertheless Im going to print another one. Im curious how it will turn out when I print it on the Sidewinder.
Aug 19, 2019, 07:38 AM
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Lynxman's Avatar
Thread OP
You probably need to tram your printer if the fan isn't perfectly true. Simply leveling the bed doesn't ensure parts are straight. The CAD design is perfectly true. Tramming is making sure the axis are perfectly perpendicular to each other.

I think the impeller from other 120 mm fans should work fine in the housing.

I have some impellers that aren't perfectly true myself since the small printer I have isn't that straight, and they work fine.
Aug 19, 2019, 08:17 AM
Registered User
Lynxman, can you tell me the dimensions of the reinforced springs you used for the main gears?
I was looking for the post, where you mentioned it, but unfortunately I can't find it.

And another question.
Instead of stronger springs, do you think it's possible to use "harder" oil? Something like 15000 CST e.g.?
Aug 19, 2019, 09:46 AM
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Lynxman's Avatar
Thread OP
The new springs are these 1.8x18x35 mm springs:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8mm-Wire-...72.m2749.l2649

The new springs keep the plane from compressing the shocks completely when it's sitting on the ground and taxiing. Thicker oil will not help with that.
Aug 20, 2019, 12:58 AM
Registered User
Thanks!
Aug 20, 2019, 03:22 AM
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Warbirdmadman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynxman
You probably need to tram your printer if the fan isn't perfectly true. Simply leveling the bed doesn't ensure parts are straight. The CAD design is perfectly true. Tramming is making sure the axis are perfectly perpendicular to each other.

I think the impeller from other 120 mm fans should work fine in the housing.

I have some impellers that aren't perfectly true myself since the small printer I have isn't that straight, and they work fine.
Thanks Lynxman, that makes perfect sense. My gantry is obviously not perpendicular to the bed which would effect the trueness of the print. I knew the CAD would be true. Also, if the stl doesn't quite sit flat to the bed that could effect it as well.

I must admit I have never looked at truing the Z-axis gantry to the bed. Might have to take a look at it. My CR-10s and the Chiron could do with gantry stabilizing rods anyway and this would be an easy way to adjust them true.
Aug 21, 2019, 11:59 PM
Registered User

TEVO Tornado gantry rods...... Anycubic Chiron info.....


I have a dozen mods on my TEVO Tornado (CR10 clone) - including the Gantry Rods.

I haven't started any mods on the Anycubic Chiron....

Boy is that "worse" than a CR10/Tornado!! In some ways... whilst notably better overall.

They do not tell you that they loosen off all the Rollers for packing it away - probably to stop the preload wearing a spot in them over long storage periods (warehouse etc). They just say "bolt this and this together = done"..... very quick and easy to assemble, but it is not going to PRINT very well with loosened off Rollers!! You of course need to fix those - if you even recognised or knew about that issue!
One set of the Rollers Adjusters are covered by the Power Supply Unit, so you have to remove that to get to those..... sigh.

The "Automatic" Bed Leveling, which would be so cool to have(!!).... well, it just does not work properly at all.... as per many people have found and I have not seen anyone who has worked out how to MAKE it work as it should. Though I will look into that and work it out at some stage.... (it is really a function of Marlin, though Anycubic likely did their own 'parts' of the system, including how they implemented the Automatic Bed Leveling of Marlin..... Badly it seems.)

This means you have to MANUALLY Bed level it... via a 25 Bed Point check process, via the TFT Touch Screen and HUNDREDS of presses of 'buttons' - probably over 200 (could be 300 region). and that is for ONE PASS. Which you need to do at least Two really - and even that is not 100% perfect... so I did Three passes to end up with a 'perfect' end result. So I would recommend three... but 2.5 hours later..... it was done.
It Prints perfectly after that monumentus task!

There are two other 3rd party Chiron Firmwares around (at least), so I will try those out and I hope/expect one or both WILL do the Automatic Bed Leveling properly!

The Ultrabase coating on the HeatBed is FANTASTIC!!
I used IKEA Lots Mirror Tiles on the Tornado, with hairspray (needs to be the right kind, with certain chemicals in it!!) and Prints stick like glue - but fall off on their own once the mirror is cool.
The Anycubic Ultrabase does that exact same thing, but needs no hairspray ever of course!!
But a mirror Tile you can take off to cool, place on another one, and Print again right away......
The Chiron needs about a 10 minute wait for the Bed to cool enough.

The 240v Tornado HeatBed takes under 1 minute to reach 70degC (70deg best for adhesion)
The Chiron 24v HeatBed takes 3.0 mins to get to 60degC...... (60degC fine/best for adhesion)

You definitely want X and Y Axis TMC2208 Stepper Drivers!!! Those Axis are very noisy (Stepper Motor noise due to A4988 Drivers).

So far, all in all, I consider it a great 3D Printer - it is just getting it ready to PRINT, assembling and adjusting etc, is quite a few hours of effort...
It will not need anywhere near as many mods/upgrades as the TEVO Tornado as it comes stock with lots of them already anyway.....

--------
Anycubic Chiron Blog
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ron-3D-Printer
Last edited by PeterVRC; Aug 22, 2019 at 12:11 AM.
Aug 24, 2019, 05:25 PM
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Warbirdmadman's Avatar
Well, my Ramtec fan and housing turned up.

Being a 127mm fan it's not a drop in fit for the EL but with some modification to fuselage 5 it will fit in. With being in one of the hottest areas in Australia I think I need to go with a fan that will survive the temperature, motor and outside temps.

Have started printing new fuse 6 and 7 and still working on fuse 5 to make fan housing fit.
Sep 05, 2019, 12:53 PM
MQ-5B Driver
Doug Cronkhite's Avatar
I bought both drawing sets (L-39 and HE-163).. Even if I don't end up printing/building them, your work deserves support.. and they were cheap.. so you've more than earned it!!
Sep 05, 2019, 12:54 PM
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Lynxman's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks, Doug.


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