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Dec 15, 2019, 06:49 AM
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I have used both X360 and Gaui X3 gears - no difference.

However, I stripped the gear in my X3 last weekend after running with it for the past year - it's the cold weather that has caused the problem - I don't know whether the cold weather has caused things to shrink (which definitely happens) or whether the cold weather makes the gear less resilient.

I set the new gear with slightly tighter mesh and all seems well again
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Dec 19, 2019, 11:28 AM
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did you have the 12alu pinion ?
some friends tells me he can be worn out pretty quickly.
so i replaced it by the 11T steel pinion before any problems
Dec 19, 2019, 01:45 PM
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Nope - I am using a steel pinion also - much quieter and last better.

I hadn't flown the heli for a month or two (I've got far too many - can't resist a bargain), and it was exactly as I had flown it previously.

It's a reasonably well known phenomenon with things (often belts) needing to be adjusted for the cold weather - the previous time I flew it would have 16 - 18 celsius, the time that it stripped the main gear it was about 2 - 4 degrees celsius that is the only thing that changed
Dec 23, 2019, 12:54 PM
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buddyclub's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffhelico
did you have the 12alu pinion ?

some friends tells me he can be worn out pretty quickly.

so i replaced it by the 11T steel pinion before any problems
Hi Jeff
I have the original 12t with about 55 lipo behind me .. You say that could be the problem that I keep shelling the gears?

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Dec 25, 2019, 02:25 AM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsirob
Just to clarify the ALZRC ESC - Spirit issue. The Hobbywing ESC RPM sensor issue is well documented in other websites. Maybe ALZRC fixed the issue with their 40 Amp V4 ESC...

The RPM signal on the clear shrink wrapped V4 ESC works with the Spirit fbl controller.

I don't have the HobbyWing cloned 60A V4 ESC with the red heatsink. So I don't have any information on that version.
Make one of these it will solve any issue an FBL has with the Hobbywing RPM signal whether it's the pull down signaling the excessively noisy signal or the wonky voltage and ground levels. It puts a Schmitt-trigger inverter between the FBL RPM port and the ESC RPM signal port. One caveat is that it's 5.5v maximum so if your RPM port supplies direct power supply voltage on the RPM port you'll need to reduce the voltage somehow. Minimum voltage is 1.65v so zero chance of the chip browning out.

Last edited by Atomic Skull; Dec 25, 2019 at 02:33 AM.
Dec 27, 2019, 12:31 AM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
I couldn't resist and got the X360 + motor and ESC. Plan on using a 3DIGI I have laying around and these servos:

https://flightcomp.com/collections/m...speed-coreless

I had good results using the BMS-127WVs on my Oxy2 and these have basicly the same speed and even more torque (but are a little larger)
Jan 08, 2020, 09:44 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeaheli
Curious to what the conclusions are on the X360. My first build was a Alzrc devil 420 and it was such a great quality kit to build I was impressed at the clone quality.
Still enjoy flying the 420 - its quite the beast.

I don't have doubts on the quality of the x360 but was just wondering how did the build go for you guys and were there any specific issues?

Thinking of the x360 for my next build

Cheers
Jake
Quality of the parts is good I had problems with the idlers, they would bind when I tightened the screws. Solved it by adding 2x3.5x0.2 shims under the pulley between the bearing and the mounting post for it on the boom mount. Still should not tighten the idler too much (stop as soon as you feel resistance) because it could distort the shim. Problem is that the center of the bearing will press into the plastic, the shims which are the exact same size as the end of the plastic mounting post on the boom mount prevents this from happening.

Also the manual shows a 0.1 and 0.5 shim between the maingear and middle bearing block. This should actually only be a 0.1 shim, the extra shimming is only needed on the X3 to adjust the backlash between the TT bevel gear and crown gear. That much shimming on the belt drive will cause the belt to touch the upper flange of the pulley.

The tail grip bearings seemed to be slightly gritty at first but this turned out to be the bearings not being fully seated in the grips. Pulling outward on the grips popped them into place and fixed this.

I didn't like the provided 10mm steel shim that goes between the maingear and tail drive pulley (I had visions of it galling) and replaced it with some 10x12x0.1 brass shims I had (I added a bit of synthetic grease to this areas as well). Also the manual does not mention it but you must install the snap ring that holds the maingear and pulley together with the flat side facing the one way bearing and the rounded side facing out or the one way bearing will not turn smoothly.

You will absolutely need some locktite #648 (Lynx Omicron retaining compound is just relabeled #648) to finish this kit, it is needed for the threaded part of the one way assembly as well as installing the bearings into the idler pulleys. Both of these are basically build stoppers as you must allow the #648 to cure for at least 2 hours before continuing.

You will also need snap ring pliers to install the clip that holds the maingear stack together (honestly the maingear and pulley assembly seems over designed to me)
Last edited by Atomic Skull; Jan 08, 2020 at 09:53 PM.
Jan 14, 2020, 03:29 AM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsirob
I am in my build, and the setscrew used to retain the tail shaft pin is an odd size. Although the manual implies that the piece comes assembled, it isn't. I can't get any of my metric or sae hex drivers to fit the set screw in the kit. And a "real" 2mm setscrew from my spare odds and ends parts box will not fit into the shaft.

Kind of in a bind here, for those that built this kit, how did you get past this? Bearing retainer or red locktite on the pin and hope for the best? Or did you find a hex driver to fit?
It's a 0.9 allen driver, the included hex key is garbage don't use it, stripped instantly.

Here's a proper driver for it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wera-118062...ss!95821!US!-1

Weras are the best allen screwdrivers I've ever used the "hex plus" tips really help to prevent stripping. The cross section is designed to put more of the driver tip in contact with the sides of the socket. I use the "micro" style handle on 0.9mm 1.3mm and 1.5mm and the larger style handle on 2mm and up. I also have some of the T handles for m5 and m6 blade grip bolts.
Jan 16, 2020, 11:34 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
When I try to go past item 9 (AR time) on the Hobbywing program box I get "SubMenu>MAX errS" Anyone else have this issue?
Jan 18, 2020, 08:03 AM
Registered User
I'm building one of these kits now, 6s with Spirit 2 fbl, hobbywing 50a v4, and the usual super combo servos/motor.

I've just got to fitting the main gear and main shaft assembly, and the bolt holding the main shaft isn't long enough to reach the nylon in the nylock nut. There's no recess for the nut to sit in either. It looks like the bolt would be the correct length if the nut was recessed like on some other helis.
Jan 18, 2020, 06:48 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by carl0s
I'm building one of these kits now, 6s with Spirit 2 fbl, hobbywing 50a v4, and the usual super combo servos/motor.

I've just got to fitting the main gear and main shaft assembly, and the bolt holding the main shaft isn't long enough to reach the nylon in the nylock nut. There's no recess for the nut to sit in either. It looks like the bolt would be the correct length if the nut was recessed like on some other helis.
It just barely reaches the end of the nylon on mine. Keep in mind it's designed to be tightened a bit, the end of the sleeve is split so that it clamps the shaft. Also when you tighten the rotor hub jesus bolt make sure it's enough to clamp the shaft otherwise the hub will be have slight side to side play. It takes quite a bit more torque than I thought I would have expected before the 0.05 or of sideways play dissapeared from the hub (you can check for this by using the grips as a lever if you can feel it move you need to tighten more)
Jan 18, 2020, 09:42 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
Interesting how linear the link geometry is on this. The links lean out at center but by the time the servos are at full deflection the link is straight. There is very little swashplate bob at all on fast elevator movements at the top/bottom of the collective with geometry compensation turned off. With how the links are I decided to leave it off because it was probbaly not working right anyway. Link compensation assumes straight links at center and this heli doesn't have straight links at center, it basically does the same thing as link geometry compensation in an FBL but mechanically.

They also designed the swash to grip links with delta in the positive direction. Delta will cause cross coupling with blade flap, it can make cyclic less efficient (more pitch input for a given roll rate) but also help prevent blade flutter. Basically when the blades flap up or down the cross coupling changes the cyclic pitch of the blade in the opposite direction as the flap up/down. This effect is used in damped tail rotors to counter asymmetrical tail rotor thrust between the advancing and retreating tail blades and is why almost all damped tail rotors have the pitch links off from 90 degrees.
Last edited by Atomic Skull; Jan 18, 2020 at 09:50 PM.
Jan 22, 2020, 08:34 AM
Registered User
Thanks A.

I got it all finished, all wired up nicely (got both ESC->Spirit telemetry and Spirit-> FrSky telemetry, so even more wires to deal with).

Took it for a maiden today and fell on its arse and stripped the main gear. Lucky I have two spare gears in preparation.
I have not set the correct gear ratio in the Spirit governor, so had barely enough head speed to lift off the grass, then fell to the side in a flop. Hit TH quickly and amazingly all that damaged was some stripped teeth on that main gear. I was still able to fly, after bodging the governor settings from the transmitter. It was noisy as hell with the dodgy main gear though. Seemed to fly nicely.

I found with linkage rods sized to 50.4mm as per the instructions, I had -14 degree to +8.5 or something. I had to make them 51.5mm, which has given 10.5 either side, with the collective range that I have set in the Spirit. This could be down to the ~1mm of space there is for the cyclic servo mounting. They can be snug either top or bottom.

Anyway, I'll swap the main gear tonight and see how I do. It sure isn't a Goblin / Devil, but this is to be my other learner along with the Oxy 2. I have the two Devils (380 and 505) for when I'm feeling more brave.
Last edited by carl0s; Jan 22, 2020 at 08:40 AM.
Jan 22, 2020, 09:35 PM
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Atomic Skull's Avatar
ALZRC has an upgrade for the tail belt idlers:



Jan 23, 2020, 12:43 AM
Slideways at warp speed.......
kiwi_craig's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull

They also designed the swash to grip links with delta in the positive direction. Delta will cause cross coupling with blade flap, it can make cyclic less efficient (more pitch input for a given roll rate) but also help prevent blade flutter. Basically when the blades flap up or down the cross coupling changes the cyclic pitch of the blade in the opposite direction as the flap up/down. This effect is used in damped tail rotors to counter asymmetrical tail rotor thrust between the advancing and retreating tail blades and is why almost all damped tail rotors have the pitch links off from 90 degrees.
this sounds interesting, any technical links so i can read up some more on this ? thanks


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