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Dec 07, 2018, 08:24 AM
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I would buy this radio as an experiment for the €100 it would cost me from Hobby King, but not if I have to spend €25 or more on special batteries and chargers or whatever else… Crazy, they are all still very good value radios, but all of them have some catch...
Last edited by Herrsavage; Dec 07, 2018 at 08:29 AM.
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Dec 07, 2018, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miami Mike
On your Inputs page, set Include Trim for Thr to TrmE. Then, if you're using your right stick up/down for something else, also change its trim to NoTrim or another trim so that TrmT doesn't affect two controls at the same time.

Why do you need to trim your sheet control?
Thanks Mike, The need to trim the sheet control is mostly psychological. Just trying to pinch that little bit more to make it around the mark . Or it could be the opposite with a newly setup boat where you're sheeting in to tight and so you can use the trim to ease off a little bit. You can always adjust the endpoints between heats but since I've got two trims and two channels I might as well get them working with the sticks that I use.
Dec 07, 2018, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herrsavage
Just out of curiosity though, has anybody gone from a more traditional radio like an X9D or QX7 and been blown away by the ergonomics of the X-lite - or conversely, totally put off by it?
Yes, the ergonomics are fantastic. This is the radio I've wanted FrSky to build ever since I bought my Taranis Rev A.
Dec 07, 2018, 04:15 PM
It's a Boolean thing.
Miami Mike's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Planeur
Thanks Mike, The need to trim the sheet control is mostly psychological. Just trying to pinch that little bit more to make it around the mark . Or it could be the opposite with a newly setup boat where you're sheeting in to tight and so you can use the trim to ease off a little bit. You can always adjust the endpoints between heats but since I've got two trims and two channels I might as well get them working with the sticks that I use.
So what you really want to adjust is your sheet tension when you're sailing close-hauled.

In that case you wouldn't want your trim to also adjust how far your sail extends on a run, so if throttle stick down is close-hauled and throttle stick up is running, one possible solution might be to checkmark the Throttle Trim Idle Only box on your Setup page so that you still get exactly +100% when the stick is full-up. Unfortunately, that seems to only work if you're using the default setting for the throttle input of Include Trim: Yes, which assigns TrmT to your throttle stick as usual. The Throttle Trim Idle Only option apparently controls the behavior of TrmT regardless of which stick it's assigned to.

The bottom line is that this may be more complicated than it seemed at first, although it definitely can be done. I can look into it more later if you like.
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Dec 07, 2018, 04:28 PM
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Mike, While the temptation is generally to try to tighten the sheet being able to loosen the sheet on a run could also be beneficial. The most common use case with a well setup boat would be to pinch that little bit more to get around a mark and then recenter the trim after the rounding so the next time you sheeted all the way in your sails would be in the most efficient position.

As long as I can remap the trim I'm good.

thanks,
Hugh
Dec 08, 2018, 08:37 AM
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is it possible to use the x-lite with dragonlink? thanks
Dec 08, 2018, 03:40 PM
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Has anyone put a Vantac MPM Lite into an X9D, X9E, QX7, Horus?
If so what are the challenges and, hopefully, solutions?

and
What is the function of the CANH and CANL pins of the MPM Lite?
Dec 09, 2018, 06:29 AM
Registered User
dear friends
i just to receive my unit and i would like to custom it a little bit
do you know where i can found some cool sound for x lite already plug and play ?others thing i can t arrive to find some cool splash screen for it...i don t know the size of pictures we need to use
Dec 09, 2018, 10:42 AM
It's a Boolean thing.
Miami Mike's Avatar
The X-Lite uses images with the same specifications as the QX-7, and RCDiy explains the QX-7 image specifications here.

The most popular sound package for OpenTX is something called "Amber" but I wouldn't describe it as "cool", it's more along the lines of "sexy". But there are text-to-speech programs that allow you to generate your own sounds, and a program called Audacity to process and enhance them.
Latest blog entry: The Shepard Tone Vario
Dec 09, 2018, 12:17 PM
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pilotpete2's Avatar
Amber is kinda sexy, but my first voice choice would be Perdita Weeks, AKA Higgins in the new Magnum PI reboot
Pete
Dec 09, 2018, 03:07 PM
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Man, I'm banging my head against the wall trying to get up and running with this X-Lite.

First off thanks for all the effort in this thread, if anyone has ever documented a thorough testing of something it takes SO much MORE time than just testing things for yourself...but documenting to share with others takes an order of magnitude more time.

Second, over the fast few days I've read this whole thread. Each and every post including following all links...but still I'm sure I've forgot some things and might ask questions that have already been addressed...so sorry in advance.

I would consider myself advanced with RC electronics and have been doing it for decades (flying quads for quite a few years lately) and this is my first FRSky product along with my first use of OPENtx...so be gentle...I'll probably be asking dumb questions in the future.

Thoughts of a 1st time FRSky & X-lite user:
First issue was finding legit 18500's, as the first batch I bought had a capacity of less than 500mah and weighed half of the legit ones I finally got when they were in stock at RDQ. Then I realized none of my sdcards were suitable as they were all over 32GB...so ordered that. Then I had a gimbal issue where I could not get Mode 2 working no matter how I used the provided screw (turns out the wrong length screw was included)...and ended up removing the spring and now that's good. I feel if you design w/ odd batteries...provide them. 99% of the people will have to buy them and not have them on hand...so the cost will be there anyway. SDcards is a wash...but why not include a cheap small one. What would have been a huge help is if the buttons were either labelled or different colors. As a new to Taranis person reading instructions and manuals, that say hit "shift" or whatever....it's a real time suck to have to lookup which button that is...but I guess people do care about aestheticss of things...where I only care about function and couldn't care less how something looks.

I've been hearing people rave about OPENtx for a long time...so thought I was going to be blown away by how much better it is that what I've been using my whole life...but honestly so far I'm finding it very un-intuitive, and there's basically nothing I've been able to get working without doing research and finding a Youtube video to explain how...which means to me it's a poor UI. I'm convinced it's a powerful firmware though, and plan on continuing to learn it.

Where I'm stuck, is getting the top 4 switches to work correctly and am obviously doing something wrong setting them up. I'm wondering if there's a "default" model for OPENtx I can load to study how a model with nothing fancy is set up to study what I'm doing wrong.

I'm used to my TX's outputting something from every switch, knob, slider, toggle, momentary, etc.) Then in Betaflight, I just set what I want to happen with those values from each channel. My issue is I'm not getting any values from the switches, just the gimbals. It's like the default is to send nothing and I need to manually tell the X-lite to send those channels (map the switch to channel) if I'm understanding OpenTX right? So far doing that is not working as expected...that's why I'm wondering if there isn't a default model I can study...where every switch, etc...is mapped to something)?
Dec 09, 2018, 03:17 PM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
pmackenzie's Avatar
Yes, you have to assign the switches to something. That is because the switches can do just about anything,. and are not always used to directly control a channel output.

Usual problem with switches not working "properly" is that you have the switch set as both source and "switch" line in the mix.
Normally all you need is to assign it as the source and it will work like just about any other radio.


As far as ease of use of Opentx, I just had the "pleasure" of setting up a model on a 14SG - what a freaking nightmare of a UI!
Dec 09, 2018, 03:42 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie
Yes, you have to assign the switches to something. That is because the switches can do just about anything,. and are not always used to directly control a channel output.

Usual problem with switches not working "properly" is that you have the switch set as both source and "switch" line in the mix.
Normally all you need is to assign it as the source and it will work like just about any other radio.


As far as ease of use of Opentx, I just had the "pleasure" of setting up a model on a 14SG - what a freaking nightmare of a UI!
That points me somewhere, thanks! I did set each switch in more than 1 place as that is what the video I was following along with told me to do...I'll try again with just doing the first part, which is the 'inputs' tab or page 5/12 of opentx. The "properly" part I didn't describe was that switches would output something, except they were dependent on the positions of the other switches. So for example switch A would only work as expected if switch B was in a certain position, otherwise it would output what I was expecting from switch C....odd mixes like that.

I think most of my mistakes are with not being familiar with the buttons (that aren't labelled) and changing settings inadvertently when I meant to exit back to last screen...then not knowing what I changed because I'm not familiar with what it's supposed to look like yet.
Dec 09, 2018, 04:31 PM
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JVogler
Some people prefer to do all setup on the transmitter, others find it easier to setup on Companion. I find Companion to be best for me, It helps me avoid the inadvertent settings or least easily see the resulting change. You might give it a try...YMMV
Dec 09, 2018, 04:42 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean Church
JVogler
Some people prefer to do all setup on the transmitter, others find it easier to setup on Companion. I find Companion to be best for me, It helps me avoid the inadvertent settings or least easily see the resulting change. You might give it a try...YMMV
I literally opened the companion for the 1st time a few minutes ago....and I have to say your advice should be told to everyone starting with Opentx. It should be -- no matter what start with the companion 1st, don't even look at the TX menu screens 1st... All the stuff I was confused about now makes perfect sense after just a few minutes in the companion. Had I skipped trying it on the TX first I would have saved much frustration.

Does anyone else use the D-pad on accident all the time trying to navigate? My whole life a directional-pad is for navigating...and all I do is adjust the trim, realize my mistake, adjust it back...then use the joystick. Going to be a hard life-long habit to break....lol


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