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Jun 25, 2019, 10:04 AM
https://hmvc.eu/
Quote:
Originally Posted by webbsolution
I like the Molex 2.0 2P as well - but was looking at other connector - and was NOT aware the pins were hollow. Good data...
I have the JST-PH connector on the UK65 drone. I believe you were look at that connector. Were you?
On the drone this JST-PH connector is connected to the PCB with a pigtail. The original had thinner gauge wire and the pins of the connector were hollow. This is being discussed in that thread and the consensus was to replace that connector with one with solid pins.

I ordered 100 pcs of these some time ago: B2B-PH-K-S
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Jun 25, 2019, 12:54 PM
Have Fun and Just Fly!
l shems's Avatar
Part of the problem with the red connectors is the relatively large movement needed to disengage. On neatly cabled dlg layouts this almost forces you to strain the cable on the sensitive spots.

That is both connector AND battery side of the wires.

I now fix the wires with scotch alongside half the battery, so that the bending is done on the wire and not the connection points.
Jul 07, 2019, 12:52 AM
https://hmvc.eu/
Quote:
Originally Posted by l shems
Part of the problem with the red connectors is the relatively large movement needed to disengage. On neatly cabled dlg layouts this almost forces you to strain the cable on the sensitive spots.
I chose the Molex 2.0 connector for my new DLG.
These can be crimped and have a protection for the wires when they are assembled. That's not the case when I use these: B2B-PH-K-S. You do need to be careful when you choose the Molex 2.0 connector. There's apparently no polarity standard for it. I have this same connector on several Floureon drones for which my charger is prepared. After I finished the whole wiring it turned out the polarity was wrong which forced me to change the pins on all.
So always be aware of polarity if you are using this same connector for different devices.
It's best to make them all the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by l shems
I now fix the wires with scotch alongside half the battery, so that the bending is done on the wire and not the connection points.
The 600 mAh battery I'm using doesn't have enough room since I melted the lead that is in front. I could have prevented that by glueing some lead on the front of the nose, but I didn't expect it to be an issue. It would have brought the lead a little bit more to the front so I could have used less and it would have been a bit further away from the antenna's.....

Because there is not enough room for the battery's cap where the wires come out of the front, I removed the cap, desoldered the original cable with the JST-RCY connector and soldered a pigtail on it with a Molex 2.0 connector. I secured it with hot glue, Kafuter silicone glue and a piece of heat shrink letting the cables go backward instead of forward. This shortens the total length of the battery and it makes sure there's only stress on the cable.
Last edited by hisroyaldudeness; Jul 07, 2019 at 01:51 AM.
Jul 07, 2019, 03:55 AM
looking up, down under
scruffy1's Avatar
my 600mah 1s (same battery) has the lead looped over foam to make a radius and point it in the right orientation, but i like your solution

the weak point is the jiggle to get the jst parts connected and released - the molex plugs are way less clumsy in that respect
Last edited by scruffy1; Jul 07, 2019 at 04:39 AM.
Jul 13, 2019, 04:20 PM
Registered User

Vario Call Out Units


When using the FrSky G-RX6 with my Taranis X9D+ in one of my DLGs, the call out units for the altitude are incorrect. Instead of saying the altitude in feet, it calls out "milliamp hours". Does anyone know how to change this so it calls out feet? Thanks.
Jul 13, 2019, 05:19 PM
Registered User
cjpace's Avatar
you can change the unit for a sensor on the telemetry page of the model set up screens.
Jul 13, 2019, 05:53 PM
Registered User
JH Hack
You do not say what version of system firware you are using. If ou have ever upgraded the firmware, it may be that youhave the wrong version of SD/SOUNDS/SYSTEMM on your system.
Jul 13, 2019, 06:14 PM
Sagitta Fanboy
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by JH Hack
When using the FrSky G-RX6 with my Taranis X9D+ in one of my DLGs, the call out units for the altitude are incorrect. Instead of saying the altitude in feet, it calls out "milliamp hours". Does anyone know how to change this so it calls out feet? Thanks.
Let me guess, you haven't upgraded and are still on OpenTX v2.1

The SD cards shipped by FrSky on X9D+'s that came with 2.1.6 and later have the wrong sound files loaded and that's one of the known symptoms (mAh instead of feet), update the SD card contents to the correct contents for your version of OpenTX and the issue will be resolved. SD card contents are available from open-tx.org
Jul 13, 2019, 06:17 PM
Registered User
The unit is in feet on the telemetry page. When I change the unit to m, the call out is in milliamps. Change the unit to mA and the call out is meters/sec. M/S and the call out is k/hr. F/S and the call out is meters. KMH, call out is degrees and MPH, the call out is percent. Something strange going on with my unit.
Jul 13, 2019, 06:23 PM
Registered User
Yes, I am running 2.1.6. I will update the SD card. Thanks a bunch.
Yesterday, 12:20 PM
A man with too many toys

40% more range ?


I just spotted the new RX6R on Aloft when shipping for a new 6-channel Rx. They say 40% more range. Has anyone actually verifies this? Are they as reliable as the old receivers?
https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-rx6r.html
.
Yesterday, 12:38 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Man
I just spotted the new RX6R on Aloft when shipping for a new 6-channel Rx. They say 40% more range. Has anyone actually verifies this? Are they as reliable as the old receivers?
https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-rx6r.html
.
I use RX6R and also the glider versions G-RX6/G-RX8 which also claim to have this increased range over the previous generation receivers, and although I didn't do any detailed tests, I can fly very far away without any alerts for low RSSI like I get sometimes with S8R for instance.

RX6R is my default received now , unless I need full house glider with 4 servos on the wing each on unique channels.
It's small, lightweigh and cheap.
And it does not have the PWM outputs to the opposite side of the Rx on the last channels, like there is on the G-RX6/G-RX8 that can be a pain during the buiild tring to fit the Rx in tight spaces. All 6 channels pins connect to the same side of the Rx.

And as a use variometer in several models (gliders), I chose to save a few bucks on each Rx by going with RX6R now as default and moving the variometer sensor from model to model on each flight, instead spending more on G-Rx6/G-rx8 glider versions and having to deal with those pins in opposite directions.

Only issue is that when I first purchased Rx6r I had to solder the connector to use my sensors, and also SBUS IN for signal from redundancy receivers (R-XSR). I don't fly drones so my soldering skills were limited to ESC battery and motor connectors, not anything that small.
I tested all pins after soldering and it worked properly .
Waiting for 3 more RX6R to arrive, hopefully they will come with pre-soldered connector from factory (from AliExpress, not aloft). Otherwise I will have to do it again .
Yesterday, 01:05 PM
A man with too many toys
Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan.letzow
I use RX6R and also the glider versions G-RX6/G-RX8 which also claim to have this increased range over the previous generation receivers, and although I didn't do any detailed tests, I can fly very far away without any alerts for low RSSI like I get sometimes with S8R for instance.

RX6R is my default received now , unless I need full house glider with 4 servos on the wing each on unique channels.
It's small, lightweigh and cheap.
And it does not have the PWM outputs to the opposite side of the Rx on the last channels, like there is on the G-RX6/G-RX8 that can be a pain during the buiild tring to fit the Rx in tight spaces. All 6 channels pins connect to the same side of the Rx.

And as a use variometer in several models (gliders), I chose to save a few bucks on each Rx by going with RX6R now as default and moving the variometer sensor from model to model on each flight, instead spending more on G-Rx6/G-rx8 glider versions and having to deal with those pins in opposite directions.

Only issue is that when I first purchased Rx6r I had to solder the connector to use my sensors, and also SBUS IN for signal from redundancy receivers (R-XSR). I don't fly drones so my soldering skills were limited to ESC battery and motor connectors, not anything that small.
I tested all pins after soldering and it worked properly .
Waiting for 3 more RX6R to arrive, hopefully they will come with pre-soldered connector from factory (from AliExpress, not aloft). Otherwise I will have to do it again .
I fly a lot of sport aerobatics and occasionally get a "telemetry Lost" verbal. I was hoping these receivers would eliminate that annoyance.

Thanks for the information, I will give one a try.

.
Last edited by RC Man; Yesterday at 01:11 PM.
Yesterday, 01:05 PM
Sagitta Fanboy
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Man
I just spotted the new RX6R on Aloft when shipping for a new 6-channel Rx. They say 40% more range. Has anyone actually verifies this? Are they as reliable as the old receivers?
https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-rx6r.html
.
It's quite noticeable when flying gliders, as was the reduction in range from the D series to the original X series.

The new RX's are more reliable than the 1st gen X series in my experience.


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