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May 07, 2018, 10:08 AM
MorganTech
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Discussion

F2G-1D “Super” Corsair - Design and Build thread


This is a Design/Build thread starting with the 3DLabPrint F4-U Corsair.
A friend of mine has been attending the Annual Castle Giant Scale Fly-In since it’s re-conception back in 2010, I mentioned about the long awaited 3DLabPrint F4U Corsair and that we could possibly scale it up about 7% to meet the 80” criteria that was passed on from the IMAA West Coast Festival. The other issue we talked about was the heat on the tarmac, possibly getting near 100 degrees. My friend Frank says… what about a white one done in the Goodyear theme, but that is a F2-G Super Corsair.

The wheels started turning…this is a thread that will cover my journey starting with the 3DLabprint F4U-Corsair. We’ll go from designing and printing to doing the scheme.

There was a local airshow back in 2012, my inspiration for the Super F2G was seeing and hearing it fly–

WINGS OVER GILLESPIE 2012 AIRSHOW F2G 1 SUPER CORSAIR (4 min 12 sec)

For the scheme on the first build, I decided to go with the Cook’s Racer #57 that won the Cleveland National Air Race back in 1949.
Here is a little history on Cleveland Air Racing. http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.co...lliams/00.shtm

Here are a couple other cool vids-

F2G Super Corsair RENO air race (8 min 2 sec)

Chopperguy Super Corsair Air Racer.mov (3 min 55 sec)
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May 07, 2018, 10:12 AM
MorganTech
Thread OP

Building tips


The long debated issue on annealing PLA does make a difference. Here are a couple shots where we are doing the annealing on a multi-wall part such as the firewall. We have not successfully done any annealing on a single wall part. Turning up your bead heat to 120 degrees for a couple 30 minute sessions, you can see the color change in the part after about 30 minutes in the heated chamber.
May 07, 2018, 10:17 AM
MorganTech
Thread OP

The Design


I use 3DSMax and Rhino to model printed parts. I had a friend help out, he used SolidWorks for his modeling. Here are a couple progress shots on the design modifications. These four shots were don in 3DSMax
May 07, 2018, 10:21 AM
MorganTech
Thread OP

The design (cont)


Here where my friend Rocketman1092, from here on RCG, helped out using SolidWorks to create the STL files.
Last edited by electric-2000; May 07, 2018 at 12:17 PM.
May 07, 2018, 10:26 AM
MorganTech
Thread OP

More building tips


I wanted something that was a bit easier to remove for the wing hinges. Decided to go with a carbon rod for top and bottom hinging. I used a long 10mm drill bit to ream out the PLA holes. I will print ends that match the existing rods and glue them into carbon for the final fit.
May 07, 2018, 10:37 AM
MorganTech
Thread OP
I've had good luck printing at a 0.200mm layer height, it does add about 10% extra time to the print but I think the detail is worth it. This Corsair took almost 300 hours and used almost 4 - 1kg. rolls of HighHeat PLA from Push Plastics here in the USA.
May 07, 2018, 10:51 AM
MorganTech
Thread OP

The flaps


Assembling the flaps had me scratching my head longer than any other set pf parts on this build. Attached is a photo that should help others. The manual shows the parts but not a close up on the actual assembly.
May 07, 2018, 12:00 PM
My planes plow into the field
farmertom's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by electric-2000
The long debated issue on annealing PLA does make a difference. Here are a couple shots where we are doing the annealing on a multi-wall part such as the firewall. We have not successfully done any annealing on a single wall part. Turning up your bead heat to 120 degrees for a couple 30 minute sessions, you can see the color change in the part after about 30 minutes in the heated chamber.
Very nice project. I will be following with great interest.
Does your design not have any single wall areas? If so how do you plan to anneal those?
-regards
May 07, 2018, 12:36 PM
MorganTech
Thread OP

More Tips


I like to use plenty of CA on my joints and go as little as possible on the kicker. Sometimes I get a little flashing on the kicker, I have found that a small amount of light weight oil, like a 10w, works to remove the flashing. Just be sure that you are not paint or doing any more gluing in that area.

Another trick I like to use is a round style paint scraper like in the photo below. My first layer printing is tight and leaves what some might call an elephants foot or small flashing. If you use a sharp scraper you can remove some of the unsightly glue, flashing and plastic. There are two photos, one before and an after, it's hard to see unless you zoom in.

Speaking of Kicker, I use what we call a "Kicker Dripper" to control the amount and placement of kicker being applied. This also help conserve the amount of kicker used. This style bottle is also used in applying the Weldon glue for gluing acrylic parts together.
Last edited by electric-2000; May 07, 2018 at 12:42 PM.
May 07, 2018, 12:41 PM
MorganTech
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmertom
Very nice project. I will be following with great interest.
Does your design not have any single wall areas? If so how do you plan to anneal those?
-regards
The annealing can be done an any part such as landing gear, firewalls, struts etc. I tried doing a slow water bath style annealing single wall parts without success.
May 07, 2018, 02:07 PM
My planes plow into the field
farmertom's Avatar
Another question. Curious as to why you chose high-temp PLA over PET-G or others? I am struggling with material choices myself. I have tried ASA but find the layer adhesion lacking in single wall prints. It seems much better on double layers, but adds weight. Sorry to pull your thread away from your beautiful Corsair...
May 07, 2018, 07:14 PM
MorganTech
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmertom
Another question. Curious as to why you chose high-temp PLA over PET-G or others?
I think my first attempt using PETG was on the small spitfire. Even at that size I found the material to be too flexible and it did not hold glue as well as PLA. I'm located in Southern California and if I keep my models out of the direct sunlight the HH PLA has been working great. I have made silver wing bags out of the air-conditioning insulation just for extra protection.
May 07, 2018, 07:16 PM
MorganTech
Thread OP
Here is the first glue-up on the fuse...this thing is huge! This is showing the modified exhaust vents and the intake on the cowling.
May 08, 2018, 12:27 AM
MorganTech
Thread OP
I was able to get the canopy printed and glued together. The design work that RocketMan1092 did on the canopy slide holds down the canopy well. The two parts that needed to be modified to create the new turtle deck were fuselage_07.STL and fuselage_06B.STL
Last edited by electric-2000; May 08, 2018 at 12:32 AM.
May 08, 2018, 12:49 AM
MorganTech
Thread OP
I finished up the design modifications on the cowl. The fins were removed and added about 25mm to the height making it a 212mm x 212mm x 200mm high print. The cowl was the longest print so far, taking close to 14 hours. The rudder on the F2G full scale was a bit taller to compensate for the torque of the larger engine, I added about 10% to the height of the existing 3DLabPrint files. With the cowl and rudder printed I was able to get the fuse completed and ready for paint.
Last edited by electric-2000; May 08, 2018 at 12:54 AM.


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