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Sep 03, 2020, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Branaum
So another question. Landing gear. How do you remove the axles to put the landing gear pants on the struts?
Answered my own question and have a warning for everyone building up this bird.

Answer: Remove both grub screws holding the axle in and use a hammer and punch to knock the axle out. It takes a lot of force to break the grub screws loose so use an actual Allen wrench rather than a hex driver.

Warning!: The provided screws to attach the LG are aluminum and will shear when going in but before seating fully. Replace them with steel screws before you even start.

It was a real shock when that happened on the first screw. The head came off and had a deformation indicating I was putting enough pressure on it to get it to turn and seat. Yes, I did pre drill and hot stuff the holes first.
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Sep 03, 2020, 12:51 PM
Registered User
xtraflyr's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Branaum
Answered my own question and have a warning for everyone building up this bird.

Answer: Remove both grub screws holding the axle in and use a hammer and punch to knock the axle out. It takes a lot of force to break the grub screws loose so use an actual Allen wrench rather than a hex driver.

Warning!: The provided screws to attach the LG are aluminum and will shear when going in but before seating fully. Replace them with steel screws before you even start.

It was a real shock when that happened on the first screw. The head came off and had a deformation indicating I was putting enough pressure on it to get it to turn and seat. Yes, I did pre drill and hot stuff the holes first.
Yeah those set screws are freaking junk. Those tiny axles make me a bit nervous too
Sep 08, 2020, 09:49 AM
Registered User
I had to add 1/4 to the firewall to get clearance for the BME 50's pitts muffler. With that, I think (based on some advance measuring) it will stick out exactly the right amount. + or - 1/4 inch!

While doing that, I also punched out the pre installed metric blind screws and filled the holes with dowl stock. Installed SAE stuff for my engine mount.

Probably keep adding hear as I will treat this as a 'build log' without photos - in a hurry as I don't have anything flyable right now and lazy.
Sep 26, 2020, 05:05 PM
Registered User
Latest update.

Had to add 22 oz of lead to stop being tail heavy with a BME 50 on the nose using a pitts style muffler. Both ignition and RX packs are in front of the CG point. Then added a 2.5 oz spinner as additional insurance due to the possibility of fat fingers.

I had the elevator throw set for 100% to be about 1/8 inch more than spec, the middle throw to be recommended value at 85% and the lower rate at 75%. I did the same for the ailerons.

Take off was at the middle range for both. That is as near to belt and suspenders I could think of. It took off in about 20 feet and climbed out steeply enough I pulled the power back substantially enough that someone asked if I did that. It flew very nicely and actually did not need much, if any trim.

There were 2 issues you should be aware of. The value given for the elevator throw is way too much.

The rolls were kind of doggy, so I went to 100% for them and they got nicer. I tried a loop at full throttle but it snapped at the middle setting but at the 75% setting it was ok. Note I did not say good, but ok. I still was not as comfortable with it as I would like to have been

The second issue is actually almost a show stopper. The wheels break! Replace them! Someone was worried that the axles were not heavy enough, and I saw no evidence of a problem.

Oh, an 'operational issue'. I took a 1/2 dowl cut down to about 2 inches and cut a slot in it to go over the lower wing retaining bolts because I don't have tiny hands or enough strength to seat those bolts on the fuselage face. YMMV.

Unfortunatly there had been some field work done and the area between the flight stations and the runway was all torn up and my buddy stopped me from going to the flight station because the ground was uneven. That is actually a problem for him, but it kept me next to the runway so when I set up a low pass I was too far over and too close to the approach end of the runway.

Basically landed in some tall grass and it caused the plane to go over on its back, breaking one of the wheel pants and the wheel as I hit a hole.

New Dubro 3 3/4 wheels on order.

Oh, the flying wires and the storage struts worked very well. I did notice that the flying wires under the elevator seemed to be loose so that is on my agenda for this week.
Sep 27, 2020, 01:49 AM
Living in the south of France
paulinfrance's Avatar
Thanks, that's a good report, I will check up on the throws on my friends plane,, still not flown.
Mar 22, 2021, 09:13 PM
Registered User

Cg??


I am just about finished my build, put a DLE35RA in the front with a stock muffler that will eventually have smoke. I am a little concerned about the CG though. I have to add 26-28oz in the cowl which seems excessive given originally it was only meant to have a 20cc so 35 is adding a few more ounces already. Fuel tank is as far forward as it can be with the batteries strapped to either side. From somethings I have read the CG actually works better around 120mm back versus 100mm. Would appreciate any thoughts?
May 24, 2021, 04:00 PM
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Chuma


En otro foro dice 145mm desde el borde de ataque plano superior
May 24, 2021, 04:34 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUMA
En otro foro dice 145mm desde el borde de ataque plano superior
This translates to: "In another forum it says 145mm from the top flat leading edge"

As this bird seems to be hard to flare, it seems that 100mm is too far forward for the CG.

Any actual reports available? Chuma can you provide a link to that number? Please?
May 24, 2021, 08:05 PM
Registered User
xtraflyr's Avatar
120 would be better for me. I’m adding a ton of weight with a DLE 30,2x 2500mah life on either side of the tank. Adding a box over the engine standoffs for weight.
Jun 02, 2021, 01:07 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by ATCDude
I am just about finished my build, put a DLE35RA in the front with a stock muffler that will eventually have smoke. I am a little concerned about the CG though. I have to add 26-28oz in the cowl which seems excessive given originally it was only meant to have a 20cc so 35 is adding a few more ounces already. Fuel tank is as far forward as it can be with the batteries strapped to either side. From somethings I have read the CG actually works better around 120mm back versus 100mm. Would appreciate any thoughts?
Looking at buying one of these. Did the DLE 35RA fit in the cowl without any issues?
Jun 22, 2021, 05:06 AM
Registered User
Rudix's Avatar
Thread OP
Great to see there is still life on this thread! I just about forgot about it.

Mine is still around (around 60 flights only) but have not flown her much in the last 2 years due to other planes getting a priority.

I ended up moving the CG back to around 135mm. Only problem I had with the plane was axels slipping on the landing gear causing the toe-in/toe-out changing, normally on a landing causing a nose-over. Flats on the landing gear shafts and new decent screws sorted that out.

She is flying with an EFlight 160 on 10S but I am thinking of stripping her and recovering/painting in different colors, I might then also change the power plant to a gas 4 stroke, maybe even a radial, for more realistic sound. The Seagull planes can be quite nice with some re-work and different colors.

Thanks for all the interesting posts here!
Jun 22, 2021, 11:00 AM
Registered User
Yes, visually Seagull planes are nice. However there ARE some things one needs to do to make them better.

I found out (the hard way of course) that the 12mm screws in the N struts are not long enough and now mine has 16mm with Loctite.

Originally I needed 612 g of lead to make the CG meet manual requirements. I have tried removing 220g and it still would not flare well. When I removed all but 44g of that lead, it allowed some flare. That lead will be removed this week as I rework the landing gear. I suspect the CG is more like 135 or 145mm.

The twisting that Rudix reports is caused by the gear leg itself twisting even though it is held in position by 3 set screws and the back up arm is also held by 3 set screws. I am going to use a tiny (less than 1/16) bit to provide a landing and binding spot for each of those screws after I straighten the axels out.
Jun 22, 2021, 11:21 AM
Registered User
xtraflyr's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Branaum
Yes, visually Seagull planes are nice. However there ARE some things one needs to do to make them better.

I found out (the hard way of course) that the 12mm screws in the N struts are not long enough and now mine has 16mm with Loctite.

Originally I needed 612 g of lead to make the CG meet manual requirements. I have tried removing 220g and it still would not flare well. When I removed all but 44g of that lead, it allowed some flare. That lead will be removed this week as I rework the landing gear. I suspect the CG is more like 135 or 145mm.

The twisting that Rudix reports is caused by the gear leg itself twisting even though it is held in position by 3 set screws and the back up arm is also held by 3 set screws. I am going to use a tiny (less than 1/16) bit to provide a landing and binding spot for each of those screws after I straighten the axels out.
This is great to hear about the CG. Iím having to add a ton of weight to get that CG mark with a DLE 30 and Iím getting discouraged and working on other planes.
Iíll move the CG back to 135mm or so and just send it and see what happens.
Jun 22, 2021, 12:30 PM
Registered User
Rudix's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Branaum
Yes, visually Seagull planes are nice. However there ARE some things one needs to do to make them better.

I found out (the hard way of course) that the 12mm screws in the N struts are not long enough and now mine has 16mm with Loctite.

Originally I needed 612 g of lead to make the CG meet manual requirements. I have tried removing 220g and it still would not flare well. When I removed all but 44g of that lead, it allowed some flare. That lead will be removed this week as I rework the landing gear. I suspect the CG is more like 135 or 145mm.

The twisting that Rudix reports is caused by the gear leg itself twisting even though it is held in position by 3 set screws and the back up arm is also held by 3 set screws. I am going to use a tiny (less than 1/16) bit to provide a landing and binding spot for each of those screws after I straighten the axels out.
Yes, that will help, I made little "flats" for the screws to land on using a Dremel and that sorted out the problem.

Last time I flew her the CG was at 135mm but I want to move it even further back, she still feels nose-heavy and there is still a lot of lead in the nose.
Aug 01, 2021, 12:11 PM
Registered User
Would a Zenoah G-26 fit? Im trying to find an ARF i can put that motor in.


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