Originally Posted by harborflyer

How is the center brace made ? Single piece , or built layers, aluminum and wood, all wood, or all aluminum ? ?

Ross

It looks like aluminum sandwiched between 2 ply pieces. I think it could be a 2 piece wing though as fragile as the wings are it might cause problems over time.

It flew good.

Be careful with the folding prop. I had a hard time getting it tight and on the third flight the prop and spinner slipped on the motor shaft.
I am wondering now if the collett is sized correctly. I re-tightened and will try again soon.

Tell us more! Is it floaty? What is your weight? Does it slow good for a landing?
Thanks!

I got mine today. I hope to delve into it tonight and tomorrow. I'll specifically be looking at the center wing joint to see just how I can make it into a two piece wing without losing too much strength.

Anyone else having trouble with the prop collet staying put? I had mine come off just test running it on the bench.

I've seen this:
The collet tightens by pushing the collar down over the split portion of the collet. The collar is pushed down by the prop, pushed down by the prop nut.
I once was using a prop that was too thin at the root and the prop nut actually ran out of threads on the collet shaft. So, the prop nut was tight, but it was tight because it ran out of threads and it did not force the prop and collar down over the split portion of the collet enough to tighten it on the motor shaft. The fix was to add another washer or two between the prop and the prop nut. This allowed the prop nut enough threads to tighten the split portion adequately.
I don't know if this is the problem with yours, but it's something to check.

Add extra washers under nut ?

Yes.

I don't think that's the case here. Upon examination, I see that there is plenty of thread in front of the prop plate to tighten the nut down. In fact, I've tightened it down to the point where the collet is gripping the shaft enough to just turn the motor when I turn the wrench.

Originally Posted by drksky

I don't think that's the case here. Upon examination, I see that there is plenty of thread in front of the prop plate to tighten the nut down. In fact, I've tightened it down to the point where the collet is gripping the shaft enough to just turn the motor when I turn the wrench.

If the prop is NOT turning, but the prop nut and the motor are turning that's a sign the prop nut is not tight enough against the prop. If you feel the threads are adequate make a washer out of sticky back sand paper. Place the sticky side on the prop plate, and put the prop onto the grit side. You should be able to hold the prop and the prop nut should be able to be tightened enough that you cannot turn it at all anymore.

Maidened mine yesterday afternoon with no drama. I'm using SoarOTX, so I was only doing the 30-second motor run to climb out. Pulls hard, 30 second, 70° motor run got me above 200 meters. It was late in the day, so the air was pretty dead. Got about 4:30 glide time from that altitude.

Seems a little nose heavy with a Value Hobby 3S 1800 pack. Balances towards the front end of the manual stated 2-3". Not very floaty. Might try a 1300 to see if that moves the CG back a bit. Seems heavy, but so far my only sailplane experience is with 9oz carbon DLGs.

Got three climbouts on the 1800 with the battery reading 11.7v at the end.

I started with the ARF version looking for a low cost but high performance ALES 2 meter glider. The Tori looked like it might work if it was a lot lighter. I installed a Sunnysky 2216 1100kv motor, 38 mm spinner, 10-6 CAM prop, Talon 25 amp esc, 4 Emax 10 gram servos and an Altis Nano altitude limiter. A Tattu 3s 650 battery is used. To make it balance properly I uncovered the tail pieces, sanded them to a more streamlined shape, recovered them with Ultracoat light and removed the tail skid. That removed. 1/2 ounce from the tail. I used external carbon fiber pushrods which were several grams lighter. RTF weight is 23.5 ounces. The cg on the first flights was 3 inches. It flew very well with a very low sink rate and a good speed range. The cg needs to go further back when I get a chance to fly again. I used 50 percent differential and 60 percent aileron to rudder mix and the handling was good.

Originally Posted by LARMARK

I started with the ARF version looking for a low cost but high performance ALES 2 meter glider. The Tori looked like it might work if it was a lot lighter. I installed a Sunnysky 2216 1100kv motor, 38 mm spinner, 10-6 CAM prop, Talon 25 amp esc, 4 Emax 10 gram servos and an Altis Nano altitude limiter. A Tattu 3s 650 battery is used. To make it balance properly I uncovered the tail pieces, sanded them to a more streamlined shape, recovered them with Ultracoat light and removed the tail skid. That removed. 1/2 ounce from the tail. I used external carbon fiber pushrods which were several grams lighter. RTF weight is 23.5 ounces. The cg on the first flights was 3 inches. It flew very well with a very low sink rate and a good speed range. The cg needs to go further back when I get a chance to fly again. I used 50 percent differential and 60 percent aileron to rudder mix and the handling was good.

I got a chance to fly this plane today. It is really a great flying glider, it turns nice and flat for big thermals or very tight for small thermals, but either way it goes UP! The part I really liked is the way it is hard to make it stall, it kind of starts to stall and but doesn't and is easy to recover if you can actually make it stall.

It was fairly breezy during the flight but getting back up wind was no problem, drop the nose a little and it easily comes back upwind.

Now, if it only had flaps for landing.

Originally Posted by TedFlack

Now, if it only had flaps for landing.

I programmed mine to have spoilerons to help with landings. I shouldn't be much more difficult to set it up for flaperons. Although, the ailerons are fairly small, so I don't know how effective they would be as flaps.

Has anyone tried the two piece wing? if so what mods are necessary for it? thanks