Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Dec 03, 2004, 11:16 PM
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HF Ventus 5M arrives + Test flight


My flying bud called this aft to say that our gliders from Icare came in today. He put a HF DG 1000 3.7M wood wing in the same box. No shipping damage Both gliders exceeded our expectations for quality.Only critisism I found is a bit of sweeper drag on upper deflection of the tip ailerons.I will post some more in due time, unfortunately I am on course for work all day tomorrow, hang tight...
Last edited by Spekd'out; May 23, 2005 at 10:45 PM.
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Old Dec 06, 2004, 10:51 AM
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Here is a bit more info. I weighed several of the pieces and am amazed how heavy things were, its going to be over the 8 kg posted weight.The fuse is 6 lbs with rudder, each wing half is 5 1/4 lbs including integral spar, stab about 10 oz and the retract with wheel 8oz. With servo's and balance it will probably hit 20lbs. With an area of 1630"sq loading will be around 28 oz ft.I am glad I have all winter to sort everything out because there is plenty to do even though all structural and finishing is done. Installing servo's programming, decals and transportation crates. I was able to get some off-cut door-skins(ply) from work this will be a good place to use it up.These boxes will allow me travelling flexibility wether i decide to use my trailer or travel with a group, or roof-top without my trailer.
I may leave the wings assembled as I will have the length to do so. I did find the tip joiners very tight and was worried about damaging taking them apart.
Old Dec 07, 2004, 04:10 AM
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Ventus


My friend has one and the flying weight is 25 lbs!
Flys very well but get used to using camber to thermal and dont get to slow on landing.

Dave
Old Dec 07, 2004, 08:22 PM
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I have been flying my 2ax since March. I got it from EMM. The wings are heavy but can take anything you can throw at them. Mine with servos weighs 23lbs. Dont worry about the tips, they will free up with use. To see some pictures of my plane and others go to kcse.us for more info.
Old Dec 07, 2004, 08:41 PM
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You fellows know how much nose weight it ended up needing? I have conflicting CG's 105mm from manuf. and 135mm from Icare. Also the throws are quite diff even though it seems to be copied from the manuf. CD. I will calculate the CG later. Hardly seems practical to save weight anywhere. Maybe carbon rods on the outer joiners and smallest possible servo's save you a whopping 7 oz on 24 lbs! Or u could get rid of the retract, nah...
Old Dec 07, 2004, 08:56 PM
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Thanks for the link JF. It already gave me an idea about coloring the wing bottoms. I had thought of darkening just the tip panels but when I saw it done it confirmed my decision. I may fly it white first to try it.
Old Dec 07, 2004, 10:17 PM
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I was looking for a weight ref. on other 5m ships then I recalled having the Rosenthal ASW 28 5M review from May Quietflyer.It came in at 21.7 lbs with about a pound in the nose.Considering their 2 servo wings the Ventus weight seems in line. I can see building a carbon /kevlar stab some day would save 5 oz in the tail and get rid of dbl that in nose weight.Next I need to source the wing wiring connectors and wire. They show the Graupner ones.
Old Dec 08, 2004, 09:09 PM
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Mine has 20oz in the nose and it puts the CG 1/2in behind the square opening in the fuse. The tips take a lot of abuse if your field in not smooth so the carbon rods might cause you problems. I used Hitec 5245 on the flaps and ailerons and 5125 on the tips. I have 5645s on the rudder and elevator and Hs85mg on the spoilers. A 645 on the retract and a HS77 on the tow release. I had to run the push rods on the bottom of the wings TD style because of too much slop with the ballinks. Hope this info helps
Old Dec 10, 2004, 06:59 PM
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A five meter scale ship at 26 pounds is not heavy. Get used to higher wing loadings, Faster airdspeeds and efficient flying. These are not your typical floater or TD ship. They fly more like real aircraft than models. If you try to fly them too slowly they will perform very poorly.
I come across this misconception often with new pilots to large scale ships.
Please fly it first, get used to how it handles before you do anything. There is no need to reconstruct it to make it lighter, it needs it's mass to perform in its element at the scale it is.
The CG can be moved forward from the recomendation on the enclosed CD, Most pilots new to large ships feel more comfortable with a conservative cg. Don't be afraid to add a pound or two of lead to the nose. Don't move it more rearward! at least for a few flights.

JD

EMM

http://www.scalesoaring.com
Old Dec 11, 2004, 05:59 PM
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Well put the bird fully together for the first time,managed to take a few pics for those interested.
Last edited by Spekd'out; Dec 11, 2004 at 06:01 PM. Reason: Add pics
Old Dec 11, 2004, 06:06 PM
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Heres a couple more..,
Old Dec 11, 2004, 08:15 PM
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Just a little more info on your plane. When you install the rudder post in the fin, the top rudder hinge will need to have its barbed shank removed up to the wood block it is mounted in. The elevator push rod will not clear it. You will also need to relieve the recess in the elevator where the elevator ball link goes. It only needs enough clearance to allow the link to move freely. Your plane looks really good.
Old Dec 11, 2004, 08:40 PM
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Thanks for all the info JF, I like hearing all of it. So far everything is really good. The only negative details so far were one incidence pin with misalignment on the tip panel and the shoulders on the stab mount screws do not go down into the recess( Will require 5 min grind ). For the wiper drag on the tip panels I passed some 240 grit and they are much better. Just got the 9 pin PC connectors from Radio Shack for the wing roots. I'm not sure yet what to do at the tip electrical joint.
Any comments on the stock retract? I like the thought of a brake. Also how does one get the doors to open and close? I have'nt even mocked it up yet.
Old Dec 11, 2004, 10:46 PM
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On the stock retract there is a plastic block that holds the pivot rod and the lock rod. After 3 flights it cracked and the upper rod bent. My friend Tim and I fabricated a new block out of 3/8 thick aluminum and replaced all of the rods with Number 9 drillrod. EMM has new blocks in stock for a fee. They also sell a new retract for it but it is easy to modify the one you have. As for the gear doors just deill a small hole on the gear leg between the axel and the wheel about 1/2 inch from the axel. Tie a small rubber band in the hole and CA the other end to the gear door and the doors will follow the gear leg. As for the tips I just used a male and female JR connector and ley the free float in the tips.
Old Dec 11, 2004, 11:16 PM
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The Old Bag LAdy

Where is this web page??


Hi all
I'm waiting to recieve my Ventus 2 ax any day now...
Great thread!
I searched for kcse.us and no luck..
What an I missing..
Can't wat to make a nice bag for her
Cheers
Al


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