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Feb 24, 2020, 05:49 AM
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If you do nothing else, you have to print the parts to make the whole body/ cage flip forward and then lock back down with the magnets. I did all of the mods Jim designed, but never got the steering parts to work right. I have to revisit that before the weather warms up.
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Feb 24, 2020, 08:16 AM
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What problems did you have with the steering parts?
Feb 24, 2020, 02:51 PM
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When I put it all together, it bound up and wouldn’t move. I’ll have to get back into it. Using the stock steering parts with the 3-D parts is tight, but it works.
Feb 24, 2020, 03:05 PM
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I can't wait to dive into this thing! I ordered mine today, original black and green model. Should be here early next week.
Feb 24, 2020, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kodak_jack
When I put it all together, it bound up and wouldn’t move. I’ll have to get back into it. Using the stock steering parts with the 3-D parts is tight, but it works.
If you over tighten the bell crank hardware, that will happen. You need to snug it, then back it off enough that everything operates smoothly.
Mar 07, 2020, 10:19 AM
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Steering Problem

I took a couple of pics of what my problem is. This still doesn't have your steering on it; it is using the stock parts for now. There are stiffener ribs under the main part up front. The steering rod end hits one of the ribs as it goes through its motions. I've filed it down some, but it's still a problem. There are 3 screws forming a triangle holding the square- shaped steering rack and I also have to leave the rear-most one loose to get it to work. If I were to take off the stock servo arm and install an upgrade aluminum arm, the bottom hole is further up from the centerline of the servo shaft centerline and it shifts things up enough that it would make things worse. As it is with the stock servo arm, I have to set it up so it is leaning toward the right. If I want it to be standing straight up at the neutral of the servo, it would bind worse than it already does. The back stiffener rib is killing it.
Any ideas?
Mar 07, 2020, 02:11 PM
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Servo Arm

One of the things I happened to notice in Jim's video on the steering set up was that the servo arm is straight up. The stock servo arm, for whatever reason, has a forward bias - toward the front of the buggy. I took off the stock arm and put on an upgraded arm and it gave just a slight advantage, but enough to give me clearance where the pivot at the end of the steering arm just misses and doesn't rub anymore.
One thing I did notice, though, is that my printed battery tray does not have the bosses are each end where the printed version of the bellcrank arms are mounted. I have a solid bar going straight across, from one side to the other. Is that a revision or am I missing something? I think if those big bosses were there, I might be back to hitting again.
Last edited by kodak_jack; Mar 07, 2020 at 10:01 PM.
Mar 07, 2020, 06:49 PM
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Hi guys,
I finally got my 10424!! It's the original green buggy-thing version. I wish I could have found the Blue 'B' model, but I couldn't find one. So far, I'm loving it. The only thing I've done to it is the mild tear-down shown in the videos to check and lube the diffs, and to fill the shocks with 30w oil.
What can I do to help with the tendency to lift a front wheel under accleration, and to roll over so badly on the turns? I thought filling the shocks would help, and maybe it did a little, but not drastically. Do I need to use a thicker oil?
I'm mostly going to be tooling around on grass, gravel and my concrete driveway like an idiot, no plans for much crawling. Should I lock the front diff or would that make things worse? I'm sure most of this has been answered here or elsewhere before, and I have read most of this thread, but it's daunting to remember half of what I've read. Sorry!
Mar 07, 2020, 09:58 PM
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Your driving is just like mine. I wanted something that had enough height for grass. I don't do any crawling with it and, so, I didn't lock the diff like some do. You must really be getting some speed out of it to want to flip on turns. I haven't seen that, but, I don't do paved surfaces either. Have you had any trouble getting it to shift between high and low? If I don't have mine zip tied into one gear, it pops right out again, and that's without the servo even being connected. I leave mine in the gear I've got it in ans just drive it that way - good enough for what I want it to do.
I think if you stiffen the shocks too much, it's be jumping around a lot.
Mar 07, 2020, 10:06 PM
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Yeah, it seems pretty quick. There's a very noticeable difference between low and high gear, which I love. It definitely tries to roll more on pavement, but it does it on gravel and even grass as well.
My shifting seems to be working perfectly, and holds fine.
Based on your comments from other threads, it seems that you got either an early build, a lemon, or both! That's a bummer, because this thing is pretty solid from what I can tell. I've rolled it I don't know how many times, and the only damage is some scuffs on the bodywork.
I'm getting comfortable with the driving, and am about ready to start the serious tinkering, just not sure where to start...
I'd really like to get it a bit more stable at speed. Maybe some wider tires? Is such a thing easy to find and retrofit, or does it always involve axle extensions and such?
Mar 08, 2020, 06:53 AM
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I guess it depends on how crazy you want to get. The thing that always blows my mind is that. no matter what wheels and tires you use and no matter how far they stick out, you're counting on some dinky little 1.5 MM pins to make it all happen! There must be a way to weld/ make the 7 MM hexes part of the axle so you're not depending on those pins. That being said, you can use any wheel that takes the 7 MM hex or even get adapters that use the 17 MM hex. There are extensions you can get, but I worry about that pin again. On top of that, the normal 7 MM hex uses lock nuts and that keeps the wheel from flying off. When you start using the very long extensions (15 MM thick or more) you get a screw that reaches inside and has a hex shape to it. That has nothing to prevent it from coming loose except for blue Loctite or other thread locker. If you loose the nut, you lose the hex and pin along with it! I have these on mine right now:

I don't want to be a downer, but eventually, you'll want to go to a better receiver, transmitter, servos (both) and ESC. When you change the ESC, you have to decide if you want to stay with the stock brushed motor, a different brushed motor or go brushless. They're all worth the time and trouble. For what I do, I stayed with the stock motor and it does just fine. Then, there's always Jim's stuff. I have said it before, but I'll say it again, if you do nothing else that he has designed, do the magnetic body mounts. You will never again have to take a zillion screws out to do work on the buggy. You leave 2 screws at the front to be the pivot and the magnets on the back and it works great! The thing that's really nice about this buggy and its size is that there is plenty of room to put in the new stuff after the original all-in-one is gone. The way Jim designed the battery tray, it put the weight where it needs to be for stability and it also give you plenty of room for a big battery.
If you decide to do Jim's 3-D printed mods, there's a guy on RCG who does printing as a little business. I've sent him a few things and think he's good and reasonable. Here, he's known as CrazyFastFlying. You can send him a PM and get his email address. With that, you can send him any STL files you want printed.Being in the US, the postage, which will probably determine the overall price, will be reasonable.
You missed a hell of a deal on a 10428-A that a guy had in the classifieds in December. One mod it had was an FPV camera mounted in the driver figure's helmet that had a servo slaved to the steering. As the buggy drove, the camera followed the steering! As I jawed with the guy about it, I ended up buying a Feyiue FY-03 buggy from him. It's converted to brushless and has other mods too. He didn't have a lot of drive time on either one. He just enjoyed tinkering with them!
Last edited by kodak_jack; Mar 08, 2020 at 06:59 AM.
Mar 08, 2020, 08:34 AM
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Thanks Jack, very helpful!
I have those exact wheels/tires in my watch list on eBay right now. Have you been happy with them? They don't say anything about the hex size. It does say "Combiner 12mm", which kinda makes me think they may be 12mm hubs. Did they require any mods to install, or are they a direct bolt-on?
I'm not worried about the pins, I have a full machine shop and can make anything I need if they happen to bend or break.
I definitely plan to eventually print the mag mounts and likely the full front tray as well. I have a 3D printer (I've offered on here to print for others as well), so that's no issue. Do we know if Jim's printed mods will fit on the regular 10428 green machine? If I print the battery tray, it requires a different shock length, right? Seems like I remember reading that... I'm trying to keep my upgrade/tinker budget down for a bit so the wife doesn't get suspicious. lol
I eventually plan to swap over to a full brushless setup with a FlySky GT3C, but that will be later. First, I have to get the car more stable at speed and work out any other little bugs and such.
I talked to that guy when you showed me the classified listing, but it was gone. Oh well, come and go. :/

Edit: How about internal spring shocks? Any good for our use? Are they still oil-filled?
Last edited by CX2Mike; Mar 08, 2020 at 08:57 AM.
Mar 08, 2020, 10:29 AM
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Along with the 10428, I have 2 each 12428's. Guys a long time ago recommended the shocks with the internal spring. Hey, they had anodized aluminum bodies, so, it added bling too. Unfortunately, they leaked like a sieve! The shocks recommended for the front are what I bought and they're fine. I should replace the rears too.
I printed the parts a few years ago. I do NOT have the boss that sticks down off of the battery tray that the steering links will bolt to. I don't remember it being an issue while printing. It seems as if the file I used didn't call for them, but I could be wrong. I'm getting back into trying to get this to work as designed, so, I may take a stab at just adding a couple of spacers and see where it goes.
When it comes to the body style, I think the cages are different, not just the body panels. I wanted to turn my 12428 into a 12428-B, so it looked like its big brother, but the body panels, the front and rear panels that hold the lights and the cage all added up to a small fortune, so, it never got done. The 10428 bodies would be about the same, I think. Chassis wise, they should all be the same, so, his mods should be fine.
I bought extenders that I was thinking I might need with the bigger wheels and tires, but I didn't use them because I didn't like the idea of not having something that adequately locked the wheels onto the studs. One thing I have to keep an eye on is the fact that those big tires are mounted to big wheels, but they're only plastic. I wouldn't want to do jumps and crazy stuff for fear that the wheels would break at the hub.
I've made pins out of hardened steel before. Actually, I bought the hardened stuff initially to make inner shafts for coax heli's like the CX2 and Lama 4. Just buy the stock and cut it to length with a cut off wheel in a Dremel.
Mar 08, 2020, 10:36 AM
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"The shocks recommended for the front are what I bought and they're fine"
Which would those be?
Mar 08, 2020, 02:39 PM
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What he recommended were the shocks from the SCX10. The link he gave and I originally used doesn't seem to work anymore. You'll have to go to Ebay and search.

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