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Feb 23, 2018, 08:18 PM
Sonoran Laser Art
Thread OP
Discussion

Yellow Jacket 3M


I have a bunch of photos from today’s build and need time to lay it all out. So far everything is fitting perfect. I will explain more later, I’m in build mode but here’s what I have accomplished so far.

This is just a phone photo.
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Feb 23, 2018, 09:01 PM
Registered User

3m YG


Corky: Your 3 meter is looking good. Please put me down for 2 kits when ready. Keep up the good work.
Feb 24, 2018, 03:31 PM
Sonoran Laser Art
Thread OP
This morning I managed to get both mid and tip panels framed up. You can start to see what it looks like. What you see on the table weighs 11.1 oz. As I mentioned on the 2M thread the fuse weighs 6.8 oz. There’s still plenty of work to finish the wing. Trailing edge, joiner tubes, center sheeting, and the tip-lets. It still feels very strong both lengthwise and torsionally, and it not covered yet. Trying to decide if I use regular Ultra or Lite. I think I will wait to see what final uncovered weight is.
Feb 24, 2018, 05:23 PM
supreme being of leisure
ZAGNUT's Avatar
nitpick time...

the etched ID number on each rib is great, especially where the taper is really shallow like on the center panel. BUT they are going to be visible through transparent covering so it would be really nice if they all lined up. the OCD crowd will thank you!

and i'm thinking you only need a single letter to identify each rib, root of each panel starts with "A", let the spar hole size identify which panel the rib belongs to. your laser tube will thank you!

aside from the OCD issues i think it really looks nice. i used to be a D tube fanatic but have fallen in love with this type of wing construction.
Feb 24, 2018, 05:40 PM
Registered User
Corky:

I will be wanting one, too. You betcha'!

Yours, Greg
Feb 24, 2018, 07:22 PM
Registered User
Count me in for one. Which CLM fuse were you thinking of again?
Feb 24, 2018, 07:57 PM
Sonoran Laser Art
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by georgeg
Count me in for one. Which CLM fuse were you thinking of again?
This is the #131 fuse with the boom and V Mount. It's pretty nice for the price.
Last edited by CloudSniffer; Feb 25, 2018 at 08:08 AM.
Feb 24, 2018, 10:00 PM
Slope-a-Dope
Steve 0's Avatar
.....
Feb 25, 2018, 06:32 AM
DLG Bug Bit Me
Tim Harbour's Avatar
Subbed
Feb 25, 2018, 08:06 AM
Sonoran Laser Art
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZAGNUT
nitpick time...

the etched ID number on each rib is great, especially where the taper is really shallow like on the center panel. BUT they are going to be visible through transparent covering so it would be really nice if they all lined up. the OCD crowd will thank you!

and i'm thinking you only need a single letter to identify each rib, root of each panel starts with "A", let the spar hole size identify which panel the rib belongs to. your laser tube will thank you!

aside from the OCD issues i think it really looks nice. i used to be a D tube fanatic but have fallen in love with this type of wing construction.
Good feedback Zagnut. I use to also be a strong advocate of D Tube. The CF tube spar design is just amazing in every way. Once you experience it, it would be tough to go back.
Feb 25, 2018, 08:32 AM
Dark Side of the Red Merle
Curtis Suter's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by georgeg
Count me in for one. Which CLM fuse were you thinking of again?
George,
The #131 pod/boom and V-mount are very nice. I have three of them. I would not totally trust the bicycle nut to hold the horizontal tail on. I drill two very small holes all the way through my horizontal tails and the V mount and insert nut and bolts. I've see two of these fly off in flight and one that fell off in my hand after landing!

This is the sailplane version but if you are planning on electric it's also my preferred choice as you can cut the nose off and add a 32mm spinner. There is also an aluminum motor mount that fits nicely too.

You can get these from CLM Pro here:
https://www.clm-pro.com/fuselage-sets/fuselage-set-131

or out of Arizona from:

The Sailplane Shop
Iain Glithero
E-mail: [email protected]

Curtis
Feb 25, 2018, 08:43 AM
Sonoran Laser Art
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curtis Suter
George,
The #131 pod/boom and V-mount are very nice. I have three of them. I would not totally trust the bicycle nut to hold the horizontal tail on. I drill two very small holes all the way through my horizontal tails and the V mount and insert nut and bolts. I've see two of these fly off in flight and one that fell off in my hand after landing!

This is the sailplane version but if you are planning on electric it's also my preferred choice as you can cut the nose off and add a 32mm spinner. There is also an aluminum motor mount that fits nicely too.

You can get these from CLM Pro here:
https://www.clm-pro.com/fuselage-sets/fuselage-set-131

or out of Arizona from:

The Sailplane Shop
Iain Glithero
E-mail: [email protected]

Curtis
I was looking at the CLM fuses as I fly with Iain. When I learned Curtis was using the same fuse on his Supra Red Merle I was sold. Iain is also a good builder and a Yellow Jacket fan. Plus a very knowledgable all around good guy.
Feb 25, 2018, 10:06 AM
Sonoran Laser Art
Thread OP

More Information


Here are the promised photos from the work I have done so far. I have two half days in framing up the entire wing. Next finish it up so we can see what it looks like.

The wing area is 1034 Sq Inches

The wing is a little more elliptical than the 2m which is putting the CG at 40% according to Sailplane Calc. This positions the wing nicely on the CLM Pro pedestal.

This first wing is a single spoiler RES. Our experience with the 2M has shown there is nothing gained by purchasing another servo and adding weight/extra work. I want to be able to fly this in RES contest so it needs to take a medium winch launch. The trailing edge is at 80% of the cord and its designed that way so flaps can be cut in. I will likely offer wing kits with RES or REF and modify the cut files so the center ribs are not cut for a spoiler. I can add holes for servo wires and servo trays to go with flaps. It needs to be adaptable for RES, ALES, and F5J. That's what I need anyway.

This wing has 1/8" birch ply ribs outside the center beam and at the center to mid joiners. With those locked to the CF tube spar at the ends and center you cannot hardly twist it. The joiners will have 9/32 OD brass tubes and 1/4" solid CF joiner rods. Two per each side. At the mid to tip panels I go to lite ply joiner ribs and dual 5mm CF tubes. If you were just planning to do electric I think aluminum tubes could be used and possibly one rod to save weight.

On the center beam the mounting holes are 5" center to center with the CG in the middle. This will allow for nice tow hook positioning down through the center of the pedestal. I made the cut outs for 1/16 ply mounting hole supports horizontal to the bottom of the rib and have 9/32" brass tubes epoxied in. Those tubes are also just right for a 1/4" wing mounting bolt. The bolts will be a straight shot at the nut and since the ply pads are horizontal the wing bolt head can be recessed some.
Last edited by CloudSniffer; Feb 25, 2018 at 01:41 PM.
Feb 25, 2018, 11:06 AM
Registered User
I looked at the #131 pod on the CLM web site. Their drawing shows where to cut the nose for a 32mm spinner diameter but it looks like the pod is what I would call a "droop snoot" design and if you cut the nose perpendicular to axis of the droop (in order to get a circular nose opening) you would get quite a bit of down thrust. If you just cut straight across, you'll get an elliptical opening. Or do you want down thrust in an electric. (Yes, I'm most interested in an electric version. Not a lot of winch action around here these days.)

Who makes the motor mount?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Curtis Suter
George,
The #131 pod/boom and V-mount are very nice. I have three of them. I would not totally trust the bicycle nut to hold the horizontal tail on. I drill two very small holes all the way through my horizontal tails and the V mount and insert nut and bolts. I've see two of these fly off in flight and one that fell off in my hand after landing!

This is the sailplane version but if you are planning on electric it's also my preferred choice as you can cut the nose off and add a 32mm spinner. There is also an aluminum motor mount that fits nicely too.

You can get these from CLM Pro here:
https://www.clm-pro.com/fuselage-sets/fuselage-set-131

or out of Arizona from:

The Sailplane Shop
Iain Glithero
E-mail: [email protected]

Curtis
Feb 25, 2018, 11:08 AM
Dark Side of the Red Merle
Curtis Suter's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by georgeg
I looked at the #131 pod on the CLM web site. Their drawing shows where to cut the nose for a 32mm spinner diameter but it looks like the pod is what I would call a "droop snoot" design and if you cut the nose perpendicular to axis of the droop (in order to get a circular nose opening) you would get quite a bit of down thrust. If you just cut straight across, you'll get an elliptical opening. Or do you want down thrust in an electric. (Yes, I'm most interested in an electric version. Not a lot of winch action around here these days.)

Who makes the motor mount?
I haven't used this motor mount so I'll let you know if there is a droop/elongation issue. However, you only have the motor on for a max of 30 seconds so all in all up/down/left/right thrust really doesn't make too much a difference. Especially the way I fly!
Curtis

https://www.hyperflight.co.uk/produc...or-mount-32-mm


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