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Jun 20, 2019, 08:08 PM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
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Changes to the Original Buggy


I've already talked about putting the bell crank into my original buggy so they both have it. Now, I've replaced the servo, receiver and brushed ESC. I had one doozy of a time binding the receiver and transmitter. The manual for the transmitter tells you to do it one way and it wasn't working. After some negative perspiration, I tried it a different way and got it to bind. I now have the 10428 and my original 12428 on the FlySky GT3C transmitter.
The ESC is actually capable of powering 2 brushed motors. I didn't need that, but it was available in the US so went for it. It arrived in 4 days. It sits tall because there's a fan on top. That will be a challenge if I stay with the stock body. I knew I had to make a plate to hold the new stuff as well as provide for a means to stiffen the chassis with the stock upper plate removed. So, the new ESC and receiver sit on that plate.
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Jun 20, 2019, 09:16 PM
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mae7's Avatar
Finally arrived today, and replaced. I had to drill out one of the old grub screws cause it was stuck and became rounded. Now my car is up and running again!

Also does anyone know where to get cheaper metal cross wrenches like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3289...b-b26b1dd43e5d

I don't want to pay $3+usd in shipping.
Jun 20, 2019, 10:01 PM
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SilbernerSurfer's Avatar
Maybe this one?
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/Metal...14594c4dRdaUhy

Is it 5.0mm, or 5.5mm?

I am using one of these for my A979-B and it works as it should!
Jun 21, 2019, 01:43 AM
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I would like to say bye to you all. It was nice conversing with you. I have sold my 12428, and ordered a HSP XSTR buggy.. So I'm moving to a different thread, and starting to learn everything anew....
Jun 21, 2019, 06:00 AM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChILd_ReBoRn
I would like to say bye to you all. It was nice conversing with you. I have sold my 12428, and ordered a HSP XSTR buggy.. So I'm moving to a different thread, and starting to learn everything anew....
I saw that. I'll be conversing with you there too. If you read much on that thread, you will see they are maniacs who beat the living heck out of their buggies. The Redcat Racing version is the Tornado. You have made some great contributions to this thread and we will miss you. Good luck and enjoy.
Jun 21, 2019, 06:04 AM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mae7
Finally arrived today, and replaced. I had to drill out one of the old grub screws cause it was stuck and became rounded. Now my car is up and running again!
.
Glad to see you're back up and running. The problem for some who have that driveshaft is the pin falling out. I think RED Loctite might be a good solution. If not, the one and only one I recommend is the one linked on page 1. My problem, as usual, is dealing with AliExpress. I was going to put in an order and couldn't check out because what I needed to deal with was off the right side of the screen. If anybody is going to order from them, let me know if you had the same problem. I have no idea how to fix it.
Jun 21, 2019, 06:42 AM
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Not a problem I've had even with a very recent order. (last week though not truck related)
Still not a huge fan and only use them if I can't get what I want elsewhere
Jun 25, 2019, 06:02 AM
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Some new wheels


Was thinking about getting these for some beach bashing: https://www.rcracingtwente.nl/produc...-strandbanden/

But will i need bigger hexes and extenders.
I'm still kinda figuring it all out.
Any help and tips would be appreciated.
Jun 25, 2019, 07:50 AM
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headlessagain's Avatar
I stay away from sand and salt water as it'll ruin the most well prepared of rigs in no time at all. The sand gets into every nook and cranny and will cause excessive wear and rust. I recall reading of one guy who ran his FTX Outback crawler on the beach and almost had to replace all the metal and mechanical parts. It's just not worth it
Jun 25, 2019, 08:19 AM
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I don't mind swapping parts
Jun 25, 2019, 09:04 AM
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In the Outbacks case it was the esc,motor,bearings,drive shafts,main chassis rails............you get the picture
Jun 25, 2019, 01:15 PM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
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Just to answer your question, though, standard until you get into some BIG vehicles is 12MM. That is the size of the hex, not the thickness. In some cases, when extra clearance is needed because of wheel offset, etc., you can use extenders to put the wheels and tires further away from the body and frame. You can safely go up to a 7 MM thickness before you start running out of useful axle threads for the lock nuts. Anything after that, you usually get spindles that thread onto the existing axles, then the extended hexes and new nuts. I don't have experience with the extended hexes, but it amazes me that the skinny threads on the axles put up with it let alone those even tinier pins that drive the hexes. When you get into monster motors and the guys who have to have them, those pins start eating the slot in the hex. Again, with a little forethought and design, I'm looking for someone to weld the hexes to the axles so you don't need the pins.
Jun 25, 2019, 04:28 PM
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On proper hobby grade hexes, the hex pin is larger and is actually a small headed allen bolt/ partly threaded long grub screw
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC4WD-12m...sAAOSwDP1bpMgZ
Jun 25, 2019, 08:06 PM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
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Nice hexes and pins. Are they that much larger? In most cases, the axles won't take anything much bigger. The normal size is 1.5 MM and I've used hexes with pins that are 2 mm = 0.020" larger.
Jun 26, 2019, 02:21 AM
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headlessagain's Avatar
Most hobby grade hex pins are thicker but it might be possible to file the unthreaded section so it passes through the axle hole


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