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Hey guys I have a question: The screw that is in the gear that connects from the differential to the driveshaft, the one is the diff case. What do I do if it keeps coming out because it sometimes gets loose. Is blue loctite always a solution or can I use maybe like a locking bolt or a locking washer? Thanks guys.
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https://www.banggood.com/RC-Car-Chas...r_warehouse=CN ... but it is a bit of a shame about the lack of one for the 12428. Still, the quality of the plastics has to be the best thing about the 12428: I have replaced everything else just about! Noone else has gone through a chassis. I suspect error on the part of the mechanic in this case. Those bearings can't easily slip out of place and wear the chassis. I have given him a replacement one, and still have another in stock. They cost me NZD$4.05 each. Incredible. Jumps = broken rear drive shafts, and front too. We learned that very quickly. The steering racks need replacing every year or so when the play front-to-back gets too much to bear. I think the alloy ones are slightly better but they wear almost as quickly. We have a club can of CRC (aerosol penetrant/lubricant) that we use to blow the channels on the steering sliders out and lube them. I don't have issues as a bell cranker. |
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I will check out the 3D printed vehicles when I get a chance. That link to the spur gear needs checking: doesn't get a hit. |
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https://www.banggood.com/Second-Floo...=CN&ID=6287842 BTW, that aluminum chassis for the 144001 looks to be pretty thin, unless it's just not a flattering picture. |
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Are new newer metal geared 12427 trucks a lot better than the FY03? I can get an FY03 from walmart for $57, and the cheapest I see and 12427 is $87.
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Building a second story on a 144001 would be a good idea if you have to carry more 1/14 scale people (for example a whole family), but the centre of gravity on the stock machine is very low and raising it could only compromise their safety at the speeds it goes in the corners I have also promised myself not to get into another WLToys car: I have done my time. Unless something REALLY wicked comes out... |
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Now we exploit the fragility of the plastic reduction gear and consider it the weak point in the drivetrain. And we don't regularly jump them. It is amazing how long a plastic reduction gear will last. Probs 9-12 months. I wouldn't recommend the metal reduction gear due to inconvenience but we have them tucked away for when the parts apocalypse hits Wouldn't metal diff housings be snazzy? Like yourself, I have always looked at the other WLToys bling parts and wondered why they felt the12428 market wasn't good enough for that. |
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However: my understanding is that the 12428 has the 540 size motor (grunty) and the FY-03 has the 390 motor (not so grunty). I have another WLToys car that had a 380 brushed motor and, while it was pretty fast, there is a significant difference in the amount of torque between them. If you want to be able to fat it out of the corners with drifting action then bigger motor = much more fun. Bigger motor also helps if you love wearing/smashing parts and working on the car I know I do! Thoughts KJ? |
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https://bit.ly/3sZ3mFP I'm the originator of this thread, but my advice to you after many hours and $$$ is to spend the money up front for something better because trying to keep these going and having to wait forever for parts isn't worth it. Sad, but true. |
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Yes, that was my point with aftermarket 900 series parts as opposed to the 124XX series parts. I consider the 900/ 1/18 scale vehicles as "cute", but not real RC vehicles. The metal diff housings are touted as being the cure to all diff problems in other RC vehicles. IMHO, the housings are just a way to hold grease and secure bearings. The diff is what is critical and had better have "good" gears in them. |
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kodak_jack, Is the FY08 one that you're saying is a better choice? I can't find it anywhere for $130.
I'm trying to get into this with my 4-5 year old son. He has another WL crawler I got him for christmas that he loves, and want to get something for myself to run with him. I think he's going to like the RC car hobby. |
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That's racing flat out, 7-8000 mAh per week for 26 months plus a few Sunday meetings. If you were taking it easy the parts costs would be significantly less. So all up, with the car, it works out to be $5 per week or less for our hobby. We all consider that to be well worth it. How long would $5 entertain you for at the pub? Not 2 hours or so like our racing does. For those kind of total bucks, you could definitely get something snazzier but you'd need the money up front. With all of your experience, what all-round basher would you buy for a bit more money? For reference, you could get a 4x4 brushed Slash from Amain for US$300. If you specifically wanted to spend time with your kid repairing and maintaining an RC car, or teaching them the importance of maintaining gear, apart from the parts dryup (and AE I suspect will be an option for a while yet...) the WLToys or Feiyues do give you plenty of opportunities for that! P.S. Don't take any of my advice. I am a bit crazy. |
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Last edited by chemist1111; Apr 18, 2021 at 04:29 PM.
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