Anyone interested in a brand new70s in the box with the factory plastic wrap still on the box? I'll knock $10 off what it would cost from HH, which should be $53 shipped CONUSA.

I think I've mentioned in the past, that I had bought this for my daughters boyfriend, who never bothered to move it from the counter where it was placed on Christmas day They are no longer together, and the helicopter is still here longing for you to give it a go

B.t.w., mine still pristine and flying as if out of the box with continual use since before Xmas in tiny living room (tight banked fast L/R circles, diagonal practice, landing with skids over "H" on helipad with imaginary coin-sized space centered under skids ca. 80% of the time, always on helipad though. Have learned NOT to try reverse turns in this space, easy outdoors; required changing slightly dinged blades (otherwise would eventually cause shorter-life mechanical issues) when repeatedly trying this in the beginning, Easier not to try than to waste blades methinks.


Luv it

Originally Posted by BrokeDad

It'd be interesting to see if my new Jumper T8SG Plus V2 would have a protocol for it. Have you tried just using Esky instead of Esky 150 ?

Have you tried DSMX protocol ?

I'm curious to know if any of you guys have had your tail motor fail yet? If so, how many flights? I have 45 flights on mine and I'm getting quite a tail wag.

300+ flights, NO noticeable yaw delay ... due to highly effective PREVENTIVE maintenance + rotor grip tightness EXACTLY as per manual > Page 9 Rotors https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/BLH4200-Manual-EN.pdf

1. I keep EVERY moving part micro lubed with high quality model train lube, including all 4 motor shafts!

2. Exact rotor grip tightness is ESSENTIAL for overall efficiency .... in this case especially the tail-rotor torque needed to overcome main rotor aerodynamic + mechanical (1. above) drag which is thereby greatly reduced

Originally Posted by xlcrlee

300+ flights, NO noticeable yaw delay ... due to highly effective PREVENTIVE maintenance + rotor grip tightness EXACTLY as per manual > Page 9 Rotors https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/BLH4200-Manual-EN.pdf

1. I keep EVERY moving part micro lubed with high quality model train lube, including all 4 motor shafts!

2. Exact rotor grip tightness is ESSENTIAL for overall efficiency .... in this case especially the tail-rotor torque needed to overcome main rotor aerodynamic + mechanical (1. above) drag which is thereby greatly reduced

Thank you sir, for your response.!!

scooped one of these for $20 on ebay like new as my first heli...figured i could jump into this as ive been doing surface for 20 years..boy was I wrong.

im just practicing taking off and hovering for now.
should i be making alot of initial trim adjustments or is some walk normal?
any tips for a true beginner?

lastly what should i stock up on for spares with this little guy,.

guys, sorry if this has already been covered...mine flies fine but the transmitter won't stop beeping...what to do? is there another source for batteries besides horizon?

P. 5 https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/BLH4200-Manual-EN.pdf


AA batteries (only buy quality alkaline batteries; must be specifically written ALKALINE)>

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Max.../dp/B00KMDL8U6

https://www.amazon.com/AA-Batteries/...node=389577011

https://www.thebatterystoreusa.com/

https://www.walmart.com/browse/house...076905_4272101

Just bought a Blade 70s a few weeks ago. And here's the weird thing:
I tried flying on old mSRx 200mAh packs with an adaperr for Lipo packs. Never flew worth crap till I broke down and bought a new set of 175mAh packs that are already properly wired. Given the novice nature of the programming, an mSRx will literally fly circles around the 70s..... on the same 200mAh packs that barely flew the 70s. I'm beginning to suspect I might have a bad main-motor on the 70s,
mSRx flies 5min. solid on same old 200mAh packs and has no lack of throttle response till 31/2 to 4min.
On another note, they should have used same type of motor as mSRx if they hadn't supcontracted the 70s from Esky.

I still really love this thing! That needs to be understood in the context of why I fly any model, which is to emulate full-size performance. Clearly the vast majority of posters in this forum have very different interests than mine (one rarely sees a full-size heli doing tic-tocks, etc.). Nonetheless, there are many others "out there" who have this item and who profit from my experiences (simple performance enhancement, etc.). "More than one candybar" .....

After extensively flying it for 10 months ("wore out" 2 LIPOS, mainly due to the wire connections breaking from excessive use), after the initial learning phase in which I broke or dinged a few blades in my very cluttered tiny living room .... NO damage to the heli which still looks and flies as new! I had bought 2 extras and lots of extra parts not expecting such a well-made and flying machine in this size or price range, and all those parts and extra helis are still in storage.

The most difficult thing for me in the learning phase was to develop a piloting technique which fits this toy and which seems to have been clearly designed for "bang-bang" gamers and neophytes. For ex., it is quite different than how I precisely control my Estes/Revell "nano quads" (safer for my birds than the 70 S), which must be delicate, quick and precise. But once learning how to use the firmware, the 70 S is quite nice and realistically flying in very close quarters doing fairly fast banked turns, etc., including being able to land 80% of the time on a spot with the skids around it! For the record, flying outside, even in some wind (needs to have a LOT of fwd trim to "defeat" the firmware in wind) is very easy and intuitive.

I am a mass-market toy developer: Stan Hiller, helicopter pioneer, persuaded me to use my Physics plus Engineering + MBA in Prdn. Mgmt. education for toys [I had discovered/invented an entirely new type of rotorcraft that the US Army wanted but was too cheap for the major manufacturers to consider [their engineers were fascinated] and still stay profitable without shooting themselves in the foot) and first connected me with Mattel. One of my flying toy items was influential in starting the mass-mkt quad mania.

Some years ago during Xmas season I did my own market research at the large and world-famous toy store here while demoing all their RC flying toys (they had me wear a badge saying "Flying Expert"). Beside having lots of fun and getting well paid, I could overhear (or directly ask) customers from many parts of the world (I understand several languages) why they liked or decided to buy a certain item.

The answer usually wound up to be "realism"!

And that is what is behind my personal love of the 70 S: it can fly just like the ex-Vietnam pilots did in "Birds of Prey"

Birds of Prey (1 hr 13 min 16 sec)

(one rarely sees a full-size heli doing tic-tocks, etc.)

No kidding...?




After extensively flying it for 10 months ("wore out" 2 LIPOS, mainly due to the wire connections breaking from excessive use), after the initial learning phase in which I broke or dinged a few blades in my very cluttered tiny living room .... NO damage to the heli which still looks and flies as new! I had bought 2 extras and lots of extra parts not expecting such a well-made and flying machine in this size or price range, and all those parts and extra helis are still in storage.

The most difficult thing for me in the learning phase was to develop a piloting technique which fits this toy and which seems to have been clearly designed for "bang-bang" gamers and neophytes. For ex., it is quite different than how I precisely control my Estes/Revell "nano quads" (safer for my birds than the 70 S), which must be delicate, quick and precise. But once learning how to use the firmware, the 70 S is quite nice and realistically flying in very close quarters doing fairly fast banked turns, etc., including being able to land 80% of the time on a spot with the skids around it! For the record, flying outside, even in some wind (needs to have a LOT of fwd trim to "defeat" the firmware in wind) is very easy and intuitive.

I am a mass-market toy developer: Stan Hiller, helicopter pioneer, persuaded me to use my Physics plus Engineering + MBA in Prdn. Mgmt. education for toys [I had discovered/invented an entirely new type of rotorcraft that the US Army wanted but was too cheap for the major manufacturers to consider [their engineers were fascinated] and still stay profitable without shooting themselves in the foot) and first connected me with Mattel. One of my flying toy items was influential in starting the mass-mkt quad mania.

Some years ago during Xmas season I did my own market research at the large and world-famous toy store here while demoing all their RC flying toys (they had me wear a badge saying "Flying Expert"). Beside having lots of fun and getting well paid, I could overhear (or directly ask) customers from many parts of the world (I understand several languages) why they liked or decided to buy a certain item.

The answer usually wound up to be "realism"!

And that is what is behind my personal love of the 70 S: it can fly just like the ex-Vietnam pilots did in "Birds of Prey"

Birds of Prey (1 hr 13 min 16 sec)

[/QUOTE]

I did a video of my Blade 70S. Check it out!

Best RC Helicopter | Blade 70S Flybarless Unboxing | RC Fun Flight (9 min 57 sec)

Nice review! That is the way this was intended to be flown and enjoyed. However, since I have other things to fly outside, my own main use of the 70 S is in my very small living room, where I can do the same maneuvers at ca. half the max. straight line airspeed shown in the above review vid (looks faster zipping close to the walls), but of course at a steady constant speed and with more tightly banked smaller radius turns, circles and horizontal 8's (linked L/R circles). Outside, as the review shows, all is safe and easy.

To do so I have measurably boosted the effective power and control precision as well as extending its service life [note recent Post #266 above] with the following really easy tips, summarized a few months ago in Post #260: it also makes a MUCH smoother and MUCH quieter sound as a result, posted on YT >

Originally Posted by xlcrlee

300+ flights, NO noticeable yaw delay ... due to highly effective PREVENTIVE maintenance + rotor grip tightness EXACTLY as per manual > Page 9 Rotors https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/BLH4200-Manual-EN.pdf

1. I keep EVERY moving part micro lubed with high quality model train lube, including all 4 motor shafts!

2. Exact rotor grip tightness is ESSENTIAL for overall efficiency .... in this case especially the tail-rotor torque needed to overcome main rotor aerodynamic + mechanical (1. above) drag which is thereby greatly reduced

No longer amazed but still happy this thing is still in pristine condition and that I have not broken nor damaged this really fine product in almost a year of regular flying in my small obstacle-filled living room. OK, a few dinged but not broken blades at first which I changed so as not to vibrate and thus degrade the mechanics as I learned the modified video-game technique needed to precisely control it!

Of course that would not likely have been the case had I not initially bought TWO (in cold storage lubed, rotor-adjusted and flight tested) spare Blade 70 S's along with lots of spare parts. Like having an umbrella often tends to prevent rain ....