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Jun 18, 2019, 07:57 AM
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Cougar429's Avatar
You could theoretically stop the cycle anywhere you want and the circuitry will eventually depower the motor.

Problems with that is the current on the motor will peak till that shut down occurs and the carrier needs to go far enough to actually lock the trunnion. If only partially through the cycle that will be near the pivot and have the least amount of mechanical advantage. Any loading on the gear could overpower the mechanics and cause damage.

All of this may be moot it that condition is in the up position since should not encounter anything other than flight loads.
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Jul 13, 2019, 08:53 AM
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samp68's Avatar
More Info regarding failure of the E-Flite retract motors.

A friend who is really into small motors, etc. dissected a failed E-Flite motor and determined that the windings are intact; the point of failure is the two tiny brushes which supply power to the motor. To prove what he found, he took the brushes from one of the Ebay motors I gave him and replaced the brushes in the orignal E-flite motor...and suddenly the "magic smoke" returned.

So it would appear the most common cause of E-Flite retract failure is the brushes. After all, it is a DC motor. The Brushes are the component most affected by use.

Nov 10, 2019, 01:04 PM
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Rsc's Avatar
Originally Posted by samp68
Nearly a year has passed since I first posted in this thread but I believe I have good news for those who are looking for replacement motors in their .25-.46 size E-Flite retracts.

Here is what I ordered from E-bay:

1Pc DC6V N30 Micro Metal Gear Box Motor With M3*40mm Threaded Rod For DIY
( 182382559914 )
No-load Speed: 650RPM
Rated Voltage: 6V

These are still listed for $7.35 each. I bought the package of 3 since I had 3 bad units. Before you order, click on the thumbnail which shows a matrix with the specs. I ordered the option which comes with a gear train with a no-load shaft speed of 650 RPM and estimated speed of 485 RPM under load. This is approximately 1/2 the speed of the original, so the retract time is twice as long...but none of the loud noise from the original motor, which sounds like it is under stress. These are much quieter and seem to be dependable. There is a box on the listing where you can specify the speed you want.

I don't know if the unit with an unloaded speed option of 1300 RPM will work or not. I was looking for torque and reliability, not speed. As long as the retract is reliable and does its job in less than 5 seconds I am happy. Actually looks more realistic.

I had no problems with the fit. Disassembled the retract unit, used a battery to confirm the old motor was bad, spun the little toggle bar off the threaded shaft on the old drive unit and it fit the new one (M3 40mm) with no problems. Soldered the red and black leads from the circuit board to the new motor then put the whole works back together....carefully....making sure the microswitches on the circuit board were centered on the endpoints in the trunnion frame.

If you have never taken one of these apart, there is a cool little reduction gear inside the housing with the motor. It looks like a miniature transmission. You will see the motor package and transmission on the above units look like they came from the same place as the original E-Flite parts. This job requires some experience dealing with small mechanical assemblies and careful soldering of small wires to small terminals, but the $$$ at risk are small and IMHO you feel pretty good about fixing your retracts for $7.35 ea (plus shipping) vs buying a new unit for about 10X that price.

I am running in a 6V environment, but also tried with a fully charged 4 cell Nicd and that also seemed OK, but slower. I like to use a 2 cell Lipo for Rx battery with a 10A Castle BEC as a "voltage regulator." The Castle BEC is adjustable via Castle Link and you can set the voltage spot on for 6.0 V that way. If you try this and it hangs up and doesn't run end to end like it should, make sure the circuit board is correctly positioned so the micro switches are where they need to be, and if that isn't the problem, look for any kind of burr that could interfere with the toggle bar moving in the slots that are machined into the sides of the trunnion frame...or if there is a drop of adhesive or anything jamming up the worm shaft where it runs through the toggle bar. (I guess you can call this tech support...)

Important - work in a clean place with good lighting. You are working with some small screws that are difficult to replace if you lose one. The small flush mounted machine screws on the trunnion frame require a 1.5 mm hex key or wrench.

My order arrived approximately 2 weeks after the order was placed.

You sir are a legend! damaged one retract on a landing, it partially works when helped, but not trusted. Just ordered 3 of these motors... these eflite retracts are super expensive i can not justify paying out! however the worm drives look an exact replacement, i look forward to them coming, I can not believe that eflite does not sell this unit!!! its the cheapest part to the retract!!

ill report back once fitted

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