Thread Tools
Feb 13, 2018, 05:36 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP

3DHS 75" Edge assembly/setup/fly

Announcement was today, it will hit the warehouse this Thursday. I will be doing a thread here and hope it helps everybody and produces some great conversation. Guys please don't post till I get about 10 spaces reserved so we can keep the assembly on the first page or two. THX.

Oh yes look what showed up. Gotta work tomorrow and my daughter has her 19th birthday Sunday so not sure how much I will get done this weekend, but I am off the next two weeks so will knock this one out quick.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Feb 17, 2018 at 11:55 PM.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Feb 13, 2018, 05:37 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
In typical EF fashion we begin with going over the plane with an iron and heat gun. I want to address the printed covering issue, if you have a printed scheme then a heat gun is best to use. I strongly recommend a heat gun and soft cloth like cotton or microfiber. Heat the area till you get the proper shrinkage, being careful not to burn thru the covering or shrink it too much, once it shrinks to the desired level then rub the cloth over the area to press it to the wood. If you only have an iron, be sure to use a sock and begin with the lowest heat to shrink the covering making sure to keep the iron moving on the surface. Once you have gone over the entire model, being sure to focus on the seams, we will begin assembly.
The manual has you start with installing the control horns, however being the anal person I am.......I paint them to match the covering in that area. So for my Orange/black/white/silver edge I must airbrush the ailerons and elevator control horns black. I use createx and a Paashe airbrush, opaque black and 30psi works well. I sand the G10 horns with 150 grit and apply 3-4 light coats and let it dry overnight. While I am doing this I prepare for hinging. You might want to refer to my video on the Extreme Flight Vimeo channel on hinging.
(13 min 2 sec)

(6 min 14 sec)

Starting with the wing I remove all the hinges and chuck them one at a time in my cordless drill and sand them with 80 grit to scuff the surface, then clean them with rubbing alcohol. This is in my hinging video and really quickens the process. Next I coat the center of the hinge with Vaseline to protect that critical area from the epoxy. I also mix some 30 minute epoxy and apply 3-4 drops of epoxy in each hinge hole of the wing, then swirl in inside the hole with a toothpick or similar, this assures the hole has glue on around it. Next I take the hinge and swirl it as I push it into the hole, this assures I get glue all around the hinge, I push the hinge inward till the pin is level with the trailing edge and is perpendicular to the hinge line. I do this to all the hinges on both wing panels then set that aside to dry. I also do the rudder and elevator at this time, to me this saves time but does not follow the included manual.
In the first two pics you can see how I prepare the control horns for paint.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Feb 17, 2018 at 11:56 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 05:43 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Continuing with hinging, as stated above I glued the wing panel, rudder and horizontal hinges in place. Today I mated the ailerons to the wing panel, notice the amount of gap between the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the aileron, it is tight but I will still gap seal it. Next I added the airbrushed control horns. I mounted the servos and added the pushrods to each aileron. I noticed EF has modified their pushrod ball links to have one end dedicated for the horn and one for the servo. This being my first true 3DHS plane that may be normal, but if not I sure like this. Got the 1.5" Extreme Flight RC servo arms on each servo too. Of course I put the pushrod in the control horn while the glue dries to keep things aligned.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Feb 18, 2018 at 08:30 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 05:44 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Onward to the gear mounting while the glue dries on the hinges. First thing I want to point out is the hardware bag for the main landing gear is actually titled tail landing gear. Next I noticed the main carbon landing gear has one side that is straight and one side that has a slight taper, the manual does not clarify the orientation, I put the straight side forward as this allows the tires to be more forward. I mounted the gear using the 4mm bolts, washers and nylon insert nut. I put the allen heads on the gear side and the nylon insert nuts on the inside of the fuselage. Easy access to the nuts is thru the large tunnel opening just under the motorbox. Next I installed the cuffs. There is a side that has a larger sweep to it and I put it aft, works either way but I like that way better. I did have to open the hole just slightly with a file to get the cuffs all the way up the landing gear. I then used blue tape to note where the bottom of the cuff falls on the gear, added my adhesive then slid the cuff back in place and used blue tape again to hold it secure while it dries overnight.
Ok busy day but made it out to the shop this evening. The cuffs turned out great, so I went on to installing the axles, wheels and pants. I begin by trial fitting the pant/axle/tire and seeing where the wheel will need to be on the axle, so it won't run on the pant. Once I find this spot I mark it with a fine point sharpie and then go to the grinder or dremel and make a small flat spot, this will let the wheel collar tighten down on a flat spot and will generally hold better. Next I install the inner wheel collar/tire/outer collar then put the axle into the hole on the carbon gear, then a washer and then tighten the nylon insert nut and tighten. Then put the pant on and install the 3mm bolt in the hole and the pant has a blind nut already installed. Be sure to use blue loctite on all bolts.
I went ahead and installed the tailwheel. This is a new design for EF/3DHS, I must say it is very nice and easy to install. I centered the tailwheel on the bottom of the fuselage and made sure the swivel point was right under the rudder hinge line. I then used a centering finger drill to make 3 holes and inserted the 3 provided wood screws. All that is left is to install the ball link in the bottom of the rudder, will do that when I mate the rudder to the fuselage.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Feb 19, 2018 at 10:46 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 05:45 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
To install the horizontal EF really could not have made it any simpler. The horizontal is slotted to fit the cutout in the fuselage. I did a trial fit anyway and it fit perfect, but you still have to align it with the wings as it can wiggle a very small amount. I like to do this by installing the wing tube and wings, to me it just makes things easier. I don't bolt the wings on, I just make sure they are snug to the fuse in their proper place. I then take a tape measure and check the distance from the trailing edge of each wing tip to the trailing edge of the horizontal. I make small adjustments to the horizontal till I get equal measurements on each side. Next I position the model so that I can view from the front and back of the plane and check alignment to the wing. It should be perfectly parallel to the wing, if not put a bit of weight on the high side till you do get perfect alignment then note the position of the weight. Then I lather 30 minute epoxy on each slot area (fuse and horizontal) and then slide the horizontal back into position, reposition that weight if it was needed, then recheck the alignment. I did need a small weight on mine. As soon as this was dry, I hinged he elevator to the horizontal and installed the small filler block behind the elevator to tidy things up. Then I mounted the elevator servo and hooked up the pushrod to the control horn, I used an Extreme Flight RC 24" extension and ran it thru the fuse formers, to which there is a slot the wire making things tidy. Then I hinged the rudder to the fuselage and also inserted the rudder control horn. The rudder control horn can be messy, I usually drop epoxy into the slots for the control horns, but with the rudder you would have epoxy all over the horn. Therefore I push the horn in but leave the center portion out so I can lather it with epoxy then push it into place. Wipe any excess epoxy off with a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Mar 04, 2018 at 07:42 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 05:47 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Rudder pull pull is next. I start by putting the ball link onto the rigging coupler. Then I measure about 3" of cable and slide the crimp on first, then the rigging coupler and pull the cable back thru the crimp, loop it around and back thru the crimp again and then crimp it. Sounds easy right, well a video is coming which will simplify it. Lastly I slide 1/8" or 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the entire crimp/rigging coupler assembly and shrink it for that clean look. Now slide the cable thru the tubes under the horizontal and bring it forward to the rudder servo. Now I slide the shrink tubing on first, then the crimp and then the rigging coupler/ball link and repeat the process. I tape the rudder in position so I can pull on the cabling and achieve the correct length, make sure your servo is centered. Get the assembly of this as close as you can then fine tune it by turning your ball link for exact length. Cables should not droop, if the do then tighten the ball link onto the rigging coupler until there is no slack. However, don't overtighten, The cables are about the correct tension if you can push down in the middle of the run and they don't move down more than about 1", for longer runs on larger airplanes it may be more.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Mar 02, 2018 at 09:48 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 05:47 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Next I will install the motor. I begin by drilling the holes, the firewall has marks for both the gas and electric motor installations as well as vertical and horizontal centerline marks for brands other than the DA35 or XPwr 30cc motors. Unfortunately, this initial run of edges' lasered motor drill guides for the Xpwr motor and DA35 on the firewall are high. If you follow that drill pattern it will put your motor about 1/8" too high. Please reference the video on how to do this very simple fix. Once you have these holes drilled, in which I used a 7/32 bit for the holes, you will be ready to proceed with the installation. I am using the recommended Blazing Star mounts, the exact one I use are the standard standoffs XL ( are very easy to install and I found I used all by one of the smallest spacers to get the length I desired. I began by mounting the standoffs to the firewall first, but I did not tighten them down, just finger tight so there is a little play. I do this because when you put the motor onto the front of the standoffs you may have to move them a slight bit to start the threads and this will accommodate that. Now put the motor onto the standoffs, be sure to use blue threadlock on all bolts, tighten all bolts and mount the cowl to check for desired fit. Once you are happy with that I took the clear baffles and but on the line. I did a trial fit inside the cowl then use Beacon brand quick grip to glue the clear baffles inside the cowling.
NOTE: not all edges have the lasered marks incorrect, please measure your holes and see if the Electric laser guide holes are 27/32" from the top of the engine box, if they are then you have a proper laser guide.

(4 min 4 sec)

(8 min 21 sec)
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; May 16, 2018 at 06:41 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 05:48 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Now I install the Castle Creations Edge HV80 electronic speed controller. I chose to follow the manual and mount mine in the exact same location. There are two predrilled holes I used on the forward portion of where someone would put the servo if using a gas motor. Using small wood screws I secured the ESC using the included mounting case. The CC HV80 includes 5mm connectors that are not soldered, so you will need to do that, forturnately the XPwr motor has the same size connector. The CC ESC battery leads also do not have connectors so you will need to solder your desired connector to accommodate your battery. Now I turn on my radio and check the rotation of the motor, if it is backwards just swap any two wires between the ESC and motor and recheck rotation. At this time I elected to include an air diverter made of depron to deflect air upward to the ESC, this is optional. The cowling does not need opened for air to escape, cutting the louvered openings on the bottom of the fuselage should provide ample air escape to cool your components.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Mar 01, 2018 at 10:14 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 05:49 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Got everything done, but some extras that you might consider.
1. Gap sealing hinges
2. Go over entire model with heat gun/iron to be sure all covering is sealed
3. Recheck all bolts/nuts for proper torque
4. Program the Castle Edge HV80 (throttle response high is a SupaTim setting and not required, just a preference) I also attached a PDF at the very bottom you can download for any of the larger XPwr motors.
Castle Edge HV 80 settings, see pics below
5. Baffling
6. CA all critical joints
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Mar 11, 2018 at 06:19 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 05:50 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Ready to maiden.

Very short clip of the first flight.
(1 min 15 sec)
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Mar 04, 2018 at 10:11 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 05:53 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
Got another quick flight in today and this plane is really fun to fly and likely the best tracking edge I have ever flown. But now that the model is done and flying I will discuss my complete setup.
My rates are"

Aileron High 33 Mid 30 Low 21
Elevator 57 51 25
Ruder 1/4" from hitting the elevator on high, mid is just slightly less, low is about half of that or enough to sustain KE.
My expo is pretty much high 45%/mid 40%/low 25-30%
As of now I have no mixes, like I already said this Edge really flies true, in KE I am noticing almost no coupling. However, both flights have been in 10-15mph winds so I really want a calm day to get a better feel for it. I am using (2) 6S 3700-4500mah lipos and getting 5 minutes with 3.8 per cell left. The receiver I have a 1300-2200mah 2S lipo.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Mar 04, 2018 at 08:11 PM.
Feb 13, 2018, 06:29 PM
Team EFRC, Castle, BandE
Thread OP
front of 3.5" spinner to back of rudder = 72.75"
ground to top of rudder = 18.5"
outside of wheelpant to outside of other wheelpant = 23"
ground to top of canopy = 16.75"
width of horizontal = 29.75"
Cowl width = 9.25"

Covering colors:
white =
orange =
silver =

Will get more of the colors up soon.
Last edited by jwilliamsrc; Apr 13, 2018 at 07:08 PM.
Feb 14, 2018, 07:18 AM
Registered User
djmoose's Avatar
Just ordered mine last night!!
Latest blog entry: Extreme Flight Wing Bags
Feb 14, 2018, 08:00 PM
The Best or Nothing
RustyT3FT's Avatar
I want to see a vid of this thing
Feb 16, 2018, 12:53 AM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
My R/W/B one is on the way from Northwest RC, and tracking says Saturday delivery!! Hot Damn!! Can't wait to see this sitting on my table!! (the pics are not mine, but previously posted ones.

As I understand it, the first manuals will be online only? Does anybody know when they will be available? I would assume that most of the construction will be pretty much identical to the new 74" Slick, but just in case..

Last edited by SteveT.; Feb 16, 2018 at 01:08 AM.

Quick Reply

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion 3DHS Edge 540 41" Setup ZJGMoparman 3D Flying 9 Sep 27, 2011 12:35 PM
Help! Texas RC Planes 75" 26cc Edge 540 Red Bull Setup HELP!!! vwa3guy 3D Flying 57 Jul 09, 2010 10:04 PM
Video 114th 3DHS FLY LOW-IN-Ben EDGE 55 Liv2Fly Electric Plane Talk 1 Aug 11, 2008 10:16 PM
Video 3DHS Fly Low In: Josh with 55" Edge jfv61 Electric Plane Talk 0 Aug 10, 2008 08:26 PM