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Jan 06, 2019, 09:14 AM
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Yes, the videos from RC Model Geeks are great, but they are missing some important details. On the other hand, sometimes, they talk about a single detail for a long time.

There are still many open questions. For example, I do not know the motor thrust and the traction mode (I hope that these are the correct English expressions). In my opinion, the motor mount looks too straight. RC Model Geeks seem to use this standard mount
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Jan 09, 2019, 09:14 AM
Registered User
This is the horizontal stabilizer. Goes together quite well.
In one of the last videos from RC Model Geeks, they mention that the stabilizer is not stiff enough and they added a strut. I do not like this solution, so I am considering to add a carbon reinforcement at the end of the stabilizer, where it connects to the elevator. I just need to cut off around 1mm from the balsa and then it should fit. In the pictures, I layed the carbon reinforcement next to the stabilizer, but I did not connect the parts yet.
Last edited by pixelkorrigierer; Jan 09, 2019 at 09:34 AM.
Jan 09, 2019, 03:21 PM
N = R* × fp × ne × fl × fi × f
Azoic's Avatar
Going on those pictures, I can see why it's a bit flimsy. They are all butt joints, with no support or bracing. Adding the carbon strip will stiffen the rear of the stab. but only in one direction. It isn't going to make those glue joints any stronger. WITHOUT going to great changes to fix it, a simple solution is as stated in your post. ADD the tailplane struts and make them functional. They run from under the tail near the skid, up to the underside of the stab. about 1.5 rib bays in from the outer end. And they WILL stop flexing, it's why they are on the fullsize DR1. See pic for locations.
Jan 10, 2019, 03:09 PM
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Hi Azoic, thanks a lot for your post. Very good input. I believe that the carbon strip should suffice, but adding the tailplane struts is much more scale. I will think about it and how to apply them best.
Jan 11, 2019, 05:45 AM
Ldm
Ldm
Ldm
Ldm's Avatar
The lasor cut parts look great , really nice quality.
Jan 11, 2019, 08:18 AM
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There are F38 types of pieces for the fuselage. The left ones are shown in the building instruction, but I have no clue where the right ones go to.
Jan 11, 2019, 08:20 AM
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As described earlier, some tail frames were bending. This was easy to fix. I used 3x3mm balsa. I glued them in a little bit away from the outside, due to the concave design of the frames.
Jan 11, 2019, 08:27 AM
Registered User
Most of the times, the building instruction is quite accurate. This is not the case for the slats. The description is wrong and some of the slats are not available in the correct length. But not a big issue. For (1), I used some pine wood that I have at home. This area is exposed and so, I thought pine is better than balsa.

The (2) slats that are supplied are a little bit short. I do not think that this is a big problem, since they are no structural parts. I just extended them with 5mm balsa.

Before you glue in the balsa pieces (3) into the round shaped plywood, make sure to make them wet. Otherwise they will break.
Last edited by pixelkorrigierer; Jan 11, 2019 at 09:08 AM.
Jan 11, 2019, 08:34 AM
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That is the motor mount from the left and the right side. I just glued it together at the beginning without paying too much attention to it and I believe that was a mistake.
In a previous post, I mentioned that I think the sidethrust and downthrust does not seem to be okay. Now, I understood that I glued in one side part incorrectly. The one with the 'L' is correct, but I should have turned the 'R' part by 180 degrees so that the 'R' faces the inside of the box.
Unfortunately, this is not described anywhere. I will have to solve this somehow.
Jan 11, 2019, 10:57 AM
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nhk750's Avatar
That's a hard one to solve, I almost did that with my Extra 300 build but noticed at the last second. You might need to cut new pieces and rebuild it as it looks pretty easy to duplicate. The plane is looking good and has a really cool framework.
Jan 11, 2019, 03:24 PM
N = R* × fp × ne × fl × fi × f
Azoic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelkorrigierer
That is the motor mount from the left and the right side. I just glued it together at the beginning without paying too much attention to it and I believe that was a mistake.
In a previous post, I mentioned that I think the sidethrust and downthrust does not seem to be okay. Now, I understood that I glued in one side part incorrectly. The one with the 'L' is correct, but I should have turned the 'R' part by 180 degrees so that the 'R' faces the inside of the box.
Unfortunately, this is not described anywhere. I will have to solve this somehow.
No problem, it's simply handed to obtain unneeded thrust angles. The model WILL STILL FLY with zero left, right or downthrust. Simplest fix in the build this one....if you NEED downthrust, add a washer UNDER the top mount bolts to lean the engine down, need more, add another washer and keep adding until you get the angle you think you need.....same for side thrust, you need right thrust, raise the left side and vice versa. ALL my models, either scratch built, plan built, kit built or a bend and fold like this ALL have 0x0x0. As in NO downthrust, NO sidethrust and both wing incidence and stabiliser incidence are at zero. I have NEVER had a problem. And I have built more than 30 WW1 types in 40+ years, including about 15 DR1's.
MOST models do not need thrust correction if built properly, it's a hold over from the old days of free flight, where ALL trimming had to be done BEFORE you released the model. A model like a Bixler or Clouds Fly with pod mounted engine, has downthrust in the mount, but if you check the datum line , I have my Clouds Fly to proove it, the thrust is centred on both. The motor mount is angled down, but the wind blows along the same straight line that runs the length of the fuselage. The insipient drag of three (four) wings makes the DR1 a very stable machine. If it wants to climb a lot with everything at zero, some downthrust can help in some cases, but it's more likely that it's slightly tail heavy. BALANCE is more important in this than thrust angle.

I have a Green RC DR1 in my fleet, it's about the same size as this one. It flew like crap when first flown, balloning constantly, and the phugoid in flight was almost fatal. It had 4 degrees down and 4 degrees right thrust built into the motor box. I cut that front off, rebuilt it and made it zero all over and it flies like a trainer now. Sorry, picture is a little blurry, but it shows the mount.

Sorry, I cannot help with the unknown bits, I assume the F is either former or firewall, as the same sheet has WD bits on it, and that is WING DOUBLER, but without the manual, I am only guessing. I'm leaning toward FORMER as it seems WAY TO LIGHT to be piece of firewall wood, even China wouldn't do a reinforcement for the firewall out of 3mm fruitbox ply, surely.
Last edited by Azoic; Jan 11, 2019 at 03:30 PM.
Jan 12, 2019, 09:25 AM
Registered User
@Azoic: 15 DR1s!!! That is incredible. You are definitely the guy to ask qustions related to this plane. And I must say, I am very surprised that this plane may not need down or side thrust. Very interesting.

Thanks all for sharing your ideas on the side and down thrust. Probably the perfect way is to do it as nhk750 mentioned. But I have to admit that I am too lazy to do that. And I am still not sure, whether I will get it right, since also the original version has some play. I thought about Azioc's approach as well. It is probably the easiest and allows for later adjustments. I am hesitating, since when applying the washers, one side of the the motor mount will push into the carbon plate at the end of the box. As I learned, carbon is extremely durable, but does not like having high pressure on a small spot. But maybe this is not an issue, since the carbon plate is reinforced with some plywood on the other side. To be safe, I could put small hard plywood between the washers and the carbon plate. Well, I still have lots of time to decide.
Last edited by pixelkorrigierer; Jan 12, 2019 at 11:55 AM.
Jan 12, 2019, 07:39 PM
N = R* × fp × ne × fl × fi × f
Azoic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelkorrigierer
I am hesitating, since when applying the washers, one side of the the motor mount will push into the carbon plate at the end of the box. As I learned, carbon is extremely durable, but does not like having high pressure on a small spot. But maybe this is not an issue, since the carbon plate is reinforced with some plywood on the other side. To be safe, I could put small hard plywood between the washers and the carbon plate. Well, I still have lots of time to decide.
I like it when people come up with a problem in a build and answer it themselves with a solution in the same question..........saves a LOT of typing for me or others that may help

Two things I will point out
1. NEVER do a nut ,a screw, a bolt or anything up BEYOND what it needs to hold. GREAT way to strip out threads, stress fracture bolts, spin heads off screws,etc.
2. If the carbon plate has plywood back and front, then crush isn't an issue. I have a 0.5mm-0.8mm crush dent in the hub on my prop on my 30cc Yak. Just means everytime I undo it, and then do it back up, it needs 5% more turn to bite tight. ONE DAY, the crush will be too high and the prop will no longer tighten safely ( 1 - 1.3mm crush point ). At under $15 it comes off, goes in the paint stirrer box and a new one goes on. Crushing happens, nothing will stop it unless you make the front out of titanium plate. And only using cheap Turnigy Type D wooden props, this would be too hard, too costly and too damn DUMB.

Your idea of making plywood spacers is a good one, but for a model like this, I think your fine with over the counter metal washers on their own. They are only spacing the standoffs out a SMALL amount, and they will actually tighten better than they did, due to slight side loads on the thread as it TRIES to pull things flat. I have seen this method done for years with no problem and I have done it MANY times myself aswell. It works and it's simple.

As an aside, THIS is a DR1 !!! I guess it must be a 1S maybe a 2S for so much pull..........VERY UNSCALE.....and there NEVER WAS an ALL RED dreidekker. And as far as I know, the Idflieg officials didn't sanction the covering of aircraft in Plastic Film until quite late in the War, possibly even after........
Flies nice though, I used to fling my 30" span OS.26 4 stroke powered one about the same way......they can be a TON OF FUN.....but don't tell no-one, lest everyone will want one.......shhh.

And Bill Hempel is doing them at 19 foot span as an ARF. RIGHT NOW !!! If ONLY I had the room to store one.........and the money.
http://www.billhempel.com/triplane/index.php

WORLD’S LARGEST FOKKER DR-1 RC SCALE PLANE / Faszination Modellbau Friedrichshafen 2016 (11 min 7 sec)
Last edited by Azoic; Jan 12, 2019 at 07:48 PM.
Jan 14, 2019, 01:17 PM
Registered User
Regarding tightening the nuts, we have a saying in Germany: "After firm comes off." :-)

The video is really amazing. Took him a long time to build it.

You mention that there was never an all red Fokker DRI. That is surprising. The German Wikipedia states that there was the one from Richthofen, which looks very similar to the one in the video, except the shape of the crosses.
See bottom of: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fokker_Dr.I
Jan 14, 2019, 08:56 PM
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AEOTech's Avatar
Thread OP

Connie


Quote:
Originally Posted by Svenr85
Hi all

Quick update:

Just received the kit from Banggood.
All is well apart from the somewhat crushed cowling (bigger than i thought).

Import to Belgium costed me 50 euro’s.
Time to see if banggood makes due on their ‘tariff insurance’..

Probably won t be building right now, but I’m happy with what I see so far. 👍
Hi, dear

This is Connie, I can see the cowling is fissuration, does the inside is broken? Can you mend it? If not, please tell me. [email protected]


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