Yep, I carted a wing panel from my 120mm twin A-10 into Home Depot to get it color matched.
The guy didn't even look surprised, and like you say, you can hardly tell where its touched up.

120mm, that ultra UMX...

You'd be surprised how tough EPO is.
On my Dynam's Fly Fly's FMS' and even my one Freewing, the foam is nearly impervious to any chemical (that is what is was formulated to be) even to the point of being difficult when trying to get stuff to stick to it!
If you're worried, try any paint on a piece of scrap EPO (if you can find some from the plane)

All great info,
AND that is a helluva nice stearman

Originally Posted by patmac1

All great info,
AND that is a helluva nice stearman

Glad to know you like the "17". Best option is to take a piece from your F-4 (canopy, vertical stab, etc) to HD or Lowes and ask them to color match. Either store will do you right and you will really like the results. Don't worry if the colors don't match while the paint is wet. Once it dries, it will. Keep us posted on your F-4.

I painted the vertical stab off of the airplane. I will mask and paint those goofy tabs with the screws tomorrow
I must say the first coat looked like crap, but two more and it’s flat and streak free.
Thanks for the heads up on the paint
That’s called black pepper
The light, of course is still masked in the pic

Another Broken NoseGear Pin today. Waaaaaay UnCool !!
Started in on my LongNosed F-4E (Conversion Kit from RCGeek // Modified it a bit// Fitment is Sweeeeeet) on the No. 2 FW F-4, got it pretty much fitted.

I am not looking forward to the Next Pin-Break on the new nose !! Gotta get this situation under control before that one Rolls-Out. Bummed about this.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2983

I sheared one also, came in a little to fast and hit a bump going off the end of the runway. Fortunately no damage other than the pin. Going to do a little heat treating to the new one that's coming, rather have it bend than shear.

Originally Posted by Bobaroo

Another Broken NoseGear Pin today. Waaaaaay UnCool !!
Started in on my LongNosed F-4E (Conversion Kit from RCGeek // Modified it a bit// Fitment is Sweeeeeet) on the No. 2 FW F-4, got it pretty much fitted.

I am not looking forward to the Next Pin-Break on the new nose !! Gotta get this situation under control before that one Rolls-Out. Bummed about this.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2983

Bob....Have you looked into trying concrete nails??? Bend or snap one of these and your a better man than me...lol

They come in all different sizes....

Too stiff.... brittle...
You can get/use 5mm (any mm) stainless steel rod. Cheap per metre etc.
Cut and make up what you need.

Plus, forget the 'flange' types and add a groove to hold it in (via side grub screw), so then they can be removed without removing the retract. To straighten when they bend instead of break....

Bob, was the second one another F-4 pin or a F-14 one? No issue on mine after using the F-14 one.


This is the nose gear pin so has to be the flange or a e clip.

Originally Posted by PeterVRC

Plus, forget the 'flange' types and add a groove to hold it in (via side grub screw), so then they can be removed without removing the retract. To straighten when they bend instead of break....

Sadly, it was the F-14 Pin. Maybe x30 Flights on this pin. I really thought this problem was behind me. Haven't really been giving it any thought. I may have to try the Nails !!

Can you imagine getting your New E-Model NoseJob Ground Off !! These 3DP NoseCones most likely will not survive a PinFailure either without some reinforcement (Carbon Tow) maybe , or some Expanding Foam !!

No problems with the BlueBox on this Jet !! That's a Plus ! Hahahaha

Originally Posted by PeterVRC

Too stiff.... brittle...
You can get/use 5mm (any mm) stainless steel rod. Cheap per metre etc.
Cut and make up what you need.

Plus, forget the 'flange' types and add a groove to hold it in (via side grub screw), so then they can be removed without removing the retract. To straighten when they bend instead of break....

Size : 100 x 5mm / 3.9" x 0.2"(L*D); x 5 for $9.49

https://www.amazon.com/Bluesky-Stain...sr=1-2-catcorr

Thanks Guyz, I'll get some SSRod ordered and have the Shop cut them up to size and Groove them for C-Clips. Maybe do the MainGear Pins as well while I'm at it even though they are holding up well considering I've Pinned the T-Link on there to save the GearDoors. Cheers !!

Originally Posted by PeterVRC

Too stiff.... brittle...
You can get/use 5mm (any mm) stainless steel rod. Cheap per metre etc.
Cut and make up what you need.

Over 30 years in masonry, and I've never seen one break. Bend, yes, but not break.( maybe the ones we use are different than yours?)
That being said , I'd still go with the stainless rod