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Jan 25, 2018, 09:49 AM
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ZD Racing 9102 Thunder B-10E DIY Car Kit question


Hello,

I am looking at "ZD Racing 9102 Thunder B-10E DIY Car Kit 2.4G 4WD 1/10 Scale RC Off-Road Buggy Without Electronic Parts" .To make the car run, what I understood is, I need to buy 3650 3300KV Brushless Motor, 60A Brushless ESC, 7.4V 2400mAh Li-Po Battery, Servo, Lipo Balance Charger, Transmitter and Receiver. Is that correct?
The car details says to use 3650 3300KV Brushless Motor and 60A Brushless ESC , I am looking at "Racerstar 3650 Sensorless Brushless Waterproof Motor 60A ESC Set For 1/10 Monster 1:10 Truck Truggy Cars" . Notice that is 3100 KV. Will that be ok?
"Tower Pro MG995 Digital Metal Gear Servo for RC Car Robot". Is this servo ok?
"Lipo Battery 7.4V 1800 mah 40C" . Notice that its 1800 mah is that ok?
"Fly Sky FS-i4X" . is my Tx/Rx. I am on a tight budget and cant afford to buy a pistol style one now. Will it work on the car?
"IMAX B3 PRO - B3AC COMPACT BALANCE CHARGER FOR 2S 7.4v & 3S 11.1v LIPO BE0215" Is that ok for Lipo Charger?

Overall this will cost around 170$ , Is it a good plan to proceed?

Here is a review of the model in youtube,
Бюджетная багги ZD Racing 9102 (10 min 7 sec)

ZD RACING Thunder B-10E 4WD Brushless 1/10 Buggy - Unboxing & In-Depth Look (11 min 5 sec)

ZD RACING Thunder B-10E 4WD Brushless 1/10 Buggy - Speed Runs (3 min 16 sec)


Thanks,
Last edited by sim_tcr; Jan 25, 2018 at 12:10 PM.
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Jan 25, 2018, 01:51 PM
Have you seen my LVC?
That servo should work. It is a bit lower than I personally like, but it will work.

For the motor, the difference between 3300kv and 3100kv will not be a big deal for a beginner. The 3100kv motor will run a bit slower, but not much. You could gear it up - get a pinion 2-3 tooth larger to get the speed back. Also, that ESC is not waterproof. I have had 2 Racerstar ESC, both failed after getting wet. Keep them dry, and they should be good. I liked them while they lived. You will need the programing card - it is about $7 from Banggood. Maybe you can get it on Aldiexpress too.

For the battery, 1800mah is a very small battery - better for 1/16 or 1/14 and a car with a 380 or smaller motor. With the 40c rating, it will run the car, but run time will be short, and the stress on the battery will be high - which could lead to the lipo cells 'puffing' and failing. For your car, I would look to a bigger battery, like a 4000mah. Yes, more money, but it will have much better run time.
See of you can get this battery to your country - https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-40...warehouse.html

For the radio - how much are you saving with that radio over a basic Flysky GT2? While I have run ground RC's with stick radios (they were common when I was young), for ground use, the left stick needs to center like the right stick does. It looks like this radio has the right stick for flying - no centering spring. If centering is an option, get it, it will be OK. If no centering, I would skip it.
Basic car radio, $20
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...io-system.html

As for the charger, it will work for a while. It will be slow, and probably fail in a few months, or maybe a few charges. Look for a iMac B6AC - the 'real' ones are $50, the 'clones' are $30.
Jan 25, 2018, 02:23 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thank you for responding.
I am still evaluating motor and ESC options. Checking if I can source them from local eBay rather than AliExpress.
I will check for a bigger capacity Lipo in ebay. I guess itís nearly impossible to import them to India. Thatís why I am even choosing a kit without electronics.
The radio documentation says, I can swap the left and right controls by opening the radio. The right control is currently spring loaded. I already have this with me thatís why I am trying not to buy another one, atleast not immediate.
Ebay India has imax b6ac copy https://www.ebay.in/itm/IMAX-B6AC-Ch...wAAOSwuxFYvREb original is double the price.

I am more worried about if the kit will have everything else other than what I have mentioned. Like gears. Are you able to make out anything by looking at the link?
Jan 25, 2018, 04:48 PM
Have you seen my LVC?
Banggood also sells this car. They have a pic that shows all the parts you get. Looks like it comes with 2 pinions.

https://www.banggood.com/ZD-Racing-9...r_warehouse=CN
Jan 25, 2018, 05:02 PM
Have you seen my LVC?
Can you import Nimh? Hobbyking as some good capacity nimh batteries for cheap, if local lipos are too much money. You will need to solder your own plug on it, as they come with the cheap/near useless Tamiya plug.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...html?wrh_pdp=3

Nimh will make the car slower, but if it is all you can get and stay in budget, it will get you running till you can save up for some good lipos. The charger you listed above will charger them.
Jan 25, 2018, 11:33 PM
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Thread OP
I have several 2800 mAh NimH batteries with me. They are not the best brand (EBL). In my xbox controller and other RC Cars they give decent life. I will try your suggestion.
I have placed an order for the kit. I will come back after it arrives. it may take up to 30 days.
Mean while I will finalize on other electronic components.

Thanks.
Feb 02, 2018, 10:47 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
So my order is coming through fine. If all goes well I should have the kit by mid next week.
Btw, I had changed the original ZD Racing 9102 Thunder B-10E Kit Buggy with a different model ZD Racing 9104 Thunder ZTX-10 Kit Truggy because of seller issues with first model. If I am not wrong, these are almost identical chassis and parts.
So now I am to order motor, ESC, programming card, servo, lipo and charger.

For Motor, ESC and Programming card I am looking at 3650 5200KV Motor+60A ESC OR 3650 3500KV Motor+60A ESC . Also considering for motor/esc Hobbywing EZRUN-3650 (8.5T) 4000kv Hobbywing EZRUN-60A V2 SL, Racerstar 3650 3100kv Motor 60A ESC Combo . Specs are almost same for both except KV. The HobbyWing one I can get hold of quickly. Which one I should go for?

Motor Specs
Watts: 900
Max voltage:<15V
Max Amps: 62A
Shaft length: 15mm
Shaft diameter: 3.175mm
Length: 50mm
Diameters: 36mm

ESC Specs
Continue current: 60A
Burst current: 320A
Battery: 2-3S Li-Po / 4-9S Ni-Mh Ni-Cd
BEC output: 5.8V / 3A
Power supply plugs: T plug male
Motor plugs: 4mm banana plug female
Dimension: 50 * 35 * 34mm

LED Program Card Specs
Low voltage cut voltage: 3.1V/ Cell 2.8V/ Cell 3.3V/ Cell
Strength maximum braking: 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%,
Maximum reverse force: 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%,
Neutral Range: 6%, 9%, 12% Working Status

Servo Towerpro Mg995 Metal Gear Servo Is this ok?

Servo Sepcs
Dimension : 40mm x 19mm x 43mm
Net weight: 69g
Operating Speed : 0.17sec / 60 degrees (4.8V no load)
Operating Speed : 0.13sec / 60 degrees (6.0V no load)
Stall Torque : 13 kg-cm (180.5 oz-in) at 4.8V
Stall Torque : 15 kg-cm (208.3 oz-in) at 6V
Operation Voltage : 4.8 - 7.2Volts
Gear Type: All Metal Gears
Connector Wire: Heavy Duty, 11.81" (300mm)

For Lipo, Wolfpack Red 5200mah 7.4V 35c with hardcase , Wolfpack White 4200mah 35C 7.4V, Gens ace 5300mAh 7.4V 65C HardCase, Gens ace 4000mAh 7.4V 30C HardCase, Bonka 4200mAh 30C 2S1P 7.4V Which One I should go for? Is hard case have any real benefits? Is having more C give more power and run time?

For Lipo Charger, SkyRC IMAX B6 50W 5A Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (GENUINE) Can it charge the Lipos I have listed above?

For lipo charger power source can I use a 12v 1.5A DC adapter? Or should it be a laptop power adapter like one with 5A on it?

Thanks.
Last edited by sim_tcr; Feb 04, 2018 at 09:54 AM.
Feb 05, 2018, 08:09 AM
Have you seen my LVC?
Buggy vs Truggy - for bashing, I think you will like the truggy better. Bigger tires and more suspension travel will let it run better in rougher ground, and jump better. With the bigger tires, you may plan on a bit lower KV motor to give more torque.

For the motor/ESC choices, I would go Hobbywing before the others if budget allows - the ESC will bet much higher quality. For motors, it does not mater as much. Also for motor - Unless you will be racing, somewhat lower KV will be better - less heat, longer run times, slightly less speed. Personally, for that truck, I would want 3000kv-3500kv. The HW 4000kv motor could be OK, but maybe you will need to plan on gearing down. Get a IR thermometer, and watch the heat.

Servo - The servo you linked will be fine with the HW ESC - if you get a different ESC with a 5v BEC, then it will be a bit slower than I like. Personally, I like my servo speed to be around .12s, and I don't like servos slower than .15s

Lipo - Genericly, higher C is better, higher MAH is better. MAH is the measure of how much energy is stored in the battery - i.e. how big is the gas tank. C-rating is how quickly can the battery empty the tank. Higher C will allow more amps, lower C fewer amps. IF you have a high amp motor, and a low amp battery, you can overwork and stress the battery. To get a rough idea of how many amps a battey can handle muntiply the MAH/1000 * C. Ir AmpHours (ah) * C. So for your 5200mah = 5200/1000 = 5.2a * 35c = 182a So in theory, that battery can supply 182 amps, for at least short bursts. Your motor has a max amps of 62a, so you are good. You do want 'spare' capacity, I would not want to run a 100a motor on a 100a battery - generally, you want 20% spare, so a 100a motor you would want 120a minimum battery. Also, more C is better (up to a point) as with the higher C packs will often provide a bit more punch off the line, and run cooler, as well has giving more charge cycles before needing to be replaced.

Charger - that one will be fine.

Power supply - your charger will need about 60W minimum, better would be 80W-100W. the 12v, 1.5a would only be (12*1.5=) 18w. Laptop power supply would be the way to go.
Feb 05, 2018, 08:36 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thank you Jerry. So I am finalizing on,

Hobbywing EZRUN-3650 (8.5T) 4000kv Motor thats the only motor available with them and Hobbywing EZRUN-60A V2 SL ESC It does allow programming with the button on the ESC. If I understood right, gearing down is done by changing the pinion gear on the motor with a lower teeth one. I will look at that after running couple of times. I think this ESC does not come with pre soldered connectors, I may have to buy those connectors too.

Servo, Towerpro Mg995 Metal Gear Servo It says 0.17sec (4.8V), 0.13sec (6.0V) and ESC BEC: 6V. So its <15s.

Lipo, its a lecture . I am assuming more mah and more c is good generally. So Gens ace 5300mAh 7.4V 65C HardCase. Little research also showed Gen Ace are generally good Lipos.
Last edited by sim_tcr; Feb 05, 2018 at 09:05 AM.
Feb 06, 2018, 10:48 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
I am reading about Fail Safe setups. (in the event of transmitter loss power or signal, car to be stopped). Is that to be done on transmitter and receiver and nothing on ESC?
Feb 06, 2018, 03:08 PM
Have you seen my LVC?
For most ground systems, they have a built in failsafe that defaults to neutral / 0 for all channels. For Air radios, you don't always want everything to go to 0 at signal failure, for those you can set the failsafe on each channel to what you need.

One ground radio that is an exception to the rule is the Radiolink RC4GS / Trackstar TS4G. You can set the failsafe on them, and it is a good idea to check it. The Default values are full throttle / right full rudder. Maybe good for a plane or a boat, but not great for a RC car in the garage when you shut the radio off first on accident... LOL
Feb 07, 2018, 12:07 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
When I recieve a new Lipo (Gens ace 5300mAh 7.4V 65C HardCase), before I use it first time should I charge?
Reading some articles, what I understand is charging A is set by calculating 5300mah/1000, so in my case it is 5.3A. I think max A I can set on IMAX B6 is 5A is that ok?
And after draining the battery (keeping cutoff at 3.2V~), can I just keep the battery as is? Or keep it charged? Or Keep it charged in storage mode?
Sorry I am confused, too much reading I did.
Feb 07, 2018, 08:18 AM
Have you seen my LVC?
The battery should be at "Storage charge" when you buy it - that is about 40% charged, around 3.8v-3.85v per cell (2s pack, so total voltage will be around 7.6-7.7). You can run it like that, but run time will be short.

Charging - you are correct that 1c charging would be 5.3a. If you charger can't go that high, then 5a is fine, 4.5a may even be better for the charger (not running at 100%). Realize that as you lower the amps, the charge time will get longer.

After running, you can just set the lipo sit, but most people recommend charging to 'storage voltage' - back to the 3.85vps. This will help the battery have a longer life. Also, best to not store them in the heat, if you can help it.

Another good tool to have is a lipo voltage checker. I have this one below - it is almost always in my pocket (along with a thermometer)when I am running my RC's.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...cer-2s-6s.html
Feb 07, 2018, 12:01 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Thanks for that Jerry.
Now I am building the Kit, so now is my chance to apply grease If needed. should I put grease (General purpose grease, says calicum hydroxide ca (OH), mineral lubricating oils, soap oils, this is the only one available here) in the differentials lightly?
What other parts need to be oiled/greased? I believe shocks has oil already.
Any other thing to watch out for?
I did try to mesh pinion and spur gearing using a paper. attaching a photo of paper. By looking the paper, can you say if the mesh is good?
Since I dont have the Lipo yet, I am testing the setup using a DC converter Output: 7.4V, 1.5A,.With motor alone it worked (but sudden throttle kind of cut of the esc), then I tried with all differentials connected, when I give throttle esc get restarted (and sometimes wheels rotates on half throttle, give full esc get restarted). Is it something to do with not enough power or mesh too tight?
Last edited by sim_tcr; Feb 07, 2018 at 02:14 PM.
Feb 07, 2018, 02:40 PM
Have you seen my LVC?
Grease - For the diff ring and pinion, I like to run the white moli / lithium grease. If you are using general purpose grease, it may be sticky, and add drag to the drive line. If that is your only option, use some, but as little as possible. Maybe thin it with some mineral sprits. If you open the diffs, you can use the general purpose grease inside. Silicon diff oil would be better, but the grease is fine here.

Pinion - can't really say from the paper. rock the spur against the pinion, there should be a tiny amount of play.

ESC test - sounds like the DC converted does not have the needed power. No worries.


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