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Feb 07, 2018, 03:41 PM
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Jerry,

You are quite correct about the stem, When I put the padding in the bow it was already partially planked. I just tried to slip it in there and continue. Your illustration shows me what I should have done. I have also been giving some thought to shaping a block for he stem on the "real version".

The hollow in the bow is Not Correct, that is part of my issue, trying to force a fit. I also never shaped the bevel on the frame edges. They are just square cut. Which is another part of the problem. I didn't originally plan to plank this mock-up. Since I am doing so to figure out the forms for the transom I thought I would plank as much of the hull as I could for practice.

I think that I will continue to play around with it while I finish out the stern.

I will be using pine for the planking on my "real version". I have a thin cut jig for my table saw that I made up for another project.

I am about ready to start making the plywood frame bulkheads and another keel for the "real version". I hope I am ready for the next step? I just have to slow myself down and not be in so much of a hurry.

Rod
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Feb 10, 2018, 03:30 PM
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Thread OP
I decided to take a couple of days to study and think on this planking business.

So I spent some time making up the plywood bulkheads for the real model. I tried to be very careful setting up the vertical and horizontal guide lines and marked the diagonals as best I could. I want to make sure that the hull will be square and properly aligned! I took a good hard look at the plans and there doesn't seem to be a Main Wale on he hull. It is not shown on any of the plan pages.

I have all of the forms rough cut and ready to be final sanded to the true lines. Then I will need to cut the slot in each for the keel. I have been debating making the keel a bit more shallow. On my mock-up I made it 1 inch, thinking of reducing it to 3/4 inch. Maybe yes, maybe no?

Rod
Feb 10, 2018, 03:59 PM
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Back to the planking, Something won't let me give up on finishing the planking the mock-up, so I am back at it.

I have extended the rear upper planking out to make a "transom floor", but the planking did not hold true to the form at the side curves and kind of splayed out at the ends. The main floor looks OK though. With the hull upside down I don't have much room to work on it there. I may have to wait until I can dismount the hull and forms to flip it over to clean this up.

I also started planking the hull bottom at the keel. I think I am going to have to remove some of the upper bow planks already installed to fix the "stem padding" and to allow me to clean the upper bow planking up.

I'm still thinking about the best approach here.
Feb 11, 2018, 02:30 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
The trick with the transom is that these drawings almost never give you a drawing of the transom that's usable as a form. (you'll find that on drawings for yachts and schooners more often) It is possible to use the three views to create such a plan, much like you would do to generate cant frames in a fully framed model, but that requires a good understanding of ship's lines and drawings. I'm trying to build a web page on this method of hull building, I guess I should focus more and better illustrate how to do this stuff. It's not so much "hard" as it is somewhat tedious trying to pick the right lines from the plan.

Here's some pics of CaptMSR's 4 foot schooner hull built on "doorskin" plywood frames, and planked in balsa. His transom is done similar to yours where you would add an outer layer with the transom wings, etc. Note the stern post fitted in the next-to-last image. In the last image the hull has just been glassed. Note the keel extension which is a box that's open to inside the hull and will be filled with lead shot and have epoxy poured into it.
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Feb 11, 2018, 06:53 PM
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Thanks Jerry, this clears up a lot and gives me a good idea of how to proceed with the stern and transom form.

I spent some time today working on the bow. I removed a couple of rows of planking from the upper hull and then performed a bit of surgery with what was left attached to the stem, then I gave it a "nose job". I took a fine toothed saw and cut off everything protruding past the stem frame squaring everything off.
Then installed new stem padding to provide an attachment point for the planking. I had to shape it in place since there was still some attached planking there. It is still a bit rough but much closer to the example you provided. I also ran a balsa "cap strip" all along the keel to provide a "Flat" for the keel to attach later.

Then I also added a couple more planks to the hull bottom. It looks a lot better, at least it does to me.
Feb 11, 2018, 11:51 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Almost time to talk about RC installation
Feb 13, 2018, 06:32 PM
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Jerry,

I have thought some about RC install and I have looked at what you and others have done, but only in a very broad sense. I "Think" I still have a lot of planking and sealing to complete first. These tapered planks are a bit of a challenge for me, but I'm getting there?

Rod
Feb 16, 2018, 03:29 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
I've been working at the stern and transom the last couple of days. I figured out that I did it wrong! I should have had the transom forms in place before I planked the stern. It would have made more sense and been a lot easier. The problem is that I also needed frame 27 in place, which got in the way of the transom forms. Somehow I have to integrate frame 27 and the transom forms together into a single integrated form. I have some ideas to do that.

Anyway, I managed to remove frame 27 without disturbing the rest of them. Then I aligned the transom forms to frame 26 as a reference point. I had already made a transom base form and bent it to the approximate curve by boiling it. Then dried it on a rough jig, and cut it to the approximate correct shape. I had to do some careful trimming of the already installed planking and slip the transom blank in underneath it.

It turned out better than I expected. I had visions of ripping out a bunch of planking but this seemed to work, although a bit rough. It still needs to be sanded into final shape.

Rod
Feb 19, 2018, 02:46 PM
Actual Model Aviator.
pitviper51's Avatar
nice work. some tedious stuff right there!
Feb 20, 2018, 11:35 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Closing in on the planking. I have some questions about the next step. I have been studying Jerry Todd's Macedonian Build, let me see if I have the correct sequence of steps:

Finish Planking and sanding
Install outer keel, stern post, and stem
Apply a coat or two of Water Putty to cover up and seal my sloppy planking job
Sand it all again
Apply resin and glass cloth to the outer hull
Sand it smooth again

Then I can dismount from the building board
Carefully remove the shadow forms
Seal the inner hull with resin
Install a few permanent frames and deck beams

and ...? Do a bunch of stuff to finish the hull.

Just listing all these steps tires me out...

Any hints, tricks and suggestion will be much appreciated!
Rod
Feb 21, 2018, 08:05 AM
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Gammon Iron's Avatar
I've never been able to plank a perfectly smooth hull. I use wood putty to hide my planking sins.
Feb 22, 2018, 03:22 PM
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Thread OP
Gammon, Apparently I am in good company then!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Well I have finished the planking ! It isn't pretty in spots, especially around he bow. I guess for a first effort it inn't too bad.

Next step is the stem, stern post and keel. Then the filler and sanding.
I think I need to clean up the shop too.

Another adventure.
Rod
Feb 23, 2018, 08:05 AM
Registered User
Gammon Iron's Avatar
Tip on using filler...Anywhere there is a noticeable gap between the planks, glue in a plank piece on the inside of the hull as a backer. And if your sanding will thin a plank too much, glue in a plank piece on the inside of the hull.
Feb 23, 2018, 10:37 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
It would be best to fill in the bigger gaps with planking material.

I used to have a tub of wall spackle that was bright white and so light it seemed it would float off the putty knife. That stuff would be great on a balsa hull.

Regular fillers, like Water Putty will tend to be harder than the balsa and when you sand, especially by hand, or with a sponge, you'll tend to gouge out more wood than putty.

Use a used utility knife blade as a scraper to get most of it, then some paper on a block.

You want to get rid of bumps and boulders, obviously, but you also want to reduce ridges and fill in hollows because all these things will cause blisters in the glass where it lifts off the hull while it sets up.


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