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Jan 11, 2018, 09:18 PM
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GEMS - Spars


Ok now that the wing is one piece its time to add the 2 supplied wing spars.

The spars that are used with this kit "GEMS Spars" are very different than the usual carbon fiber rod or ribbon that you normally find.
These spars consist of a tempered steel rod encased in a fibrous outer shell .
Being tempered they have the ability to flex under high loads and then return to their original shape {unlike carbon which will shatter if over stressed}
I have seen the abuse The GEMS - kits can take and still be flight worthy....the system works
Back to the build
Check the fit of the spars in the precut channels, make sure they do not stick up above the wing surface .
I used a combination of White Gorilla glue and hot glue .

I put a bead on the WGG on the bottom of the spar leaving a 1/4 section in the middle and on each end unglued .
Press the glued spar down into the channel,then use a bead of hot glue on the unglued middle and each end to hold the spar in its proper position while the WGG expands and cures - a small spritz of water will start the WGG foaming .
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Jan 11, 2018, 09:21 PM
Held by Grace
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Once the WGG is cured ,take a razor to trim the excess glue flush with the top of the wing
Jan 12, 2018, 06:04 PM
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Now turn the plane over and glue the battery in place with both battery plugs run into the receiver compartment behind it using hot glue
Jan 12, 2018, 07:06 PM
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Next the instructions call for adding 1oz flat wheel weights into pockets you cut on each side for a total of 2oz of nose weight.
glue these in place with hot glue
*on my sizzle I waited to the end of the build to do this,so that I could do my CG balance and side to side balance at the same time.
Jan 12, 2018, 07:20 PM
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Next step is to glue in the supplied coroplast hatch.
I first cleaned the hatch with rubbing alcohol and the glued it in with Foam tac, in the third picture you can see the "strings"that develop as the glue cures
Jan 12, 2018, 07:44 PM
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Spackle


The instructions describe using strapping tape on the leading and trailing edges for strength and durability ,and this system works well and is easy to do.

I have developed my own method using Spackle, light weight glass dry wall tape and Foam Tac.
Jan 12, 2018, 09:22 PM
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I wait on the hinging until after I have most of the filling and sanding work done to avoid wear and tear on the balsa ailerons

I like to apply a coat of light weight Spackle to the entire plane, doing one side at a time so things don't get too messy.
I use a old credit card {you know the ones that you get in the mail that you didn't request} to trowel the Spackle on and spread it out.
Don't try to work it around too much as it reaches a point where it just picks back up.
When you get a good covering of it on the plane ,set it aside to dry.
Once dry repeat for the opposite side.
Use a sanding bar to sand the wing to your satisfaction ,the smoother it is the more surface for the drywall screen and covering to adhere too

Do not be concerned of the weight ,when you sand it most of the Spackle will be removed leaving a smooth surface .

If Spackle and sanding sounds like more work than you want ,just follow the kit's instructions and go with the strapping tape and the covering of your choice and you will be fine
Jan 14, 2018, 02:18 PM
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looking good
don
Jan 14, 2018, 05:06 PM
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Hinges


Going to change gears here to keep the thread moving, I am not happy with the pictures i have showing the dry wall screen being added so i will jump to Hinges and return to it in a bit as I have another build on deck that I can use to document the process .

Determine the position for your hinge slots and then place your ailerons back to back and match them before marking the slots,it looks nicer when both sides are symmetrical

Here are the ailerons marked and slotted for the Ca hinges.
The hinges are also marked and ready to be cut into 4 -1/8 pieces for each side.
Last edited by BDOG1; Jan 14, 2018 at 05:14 PM. Reason: more instructions
Jan 14, 2018, 05:49 PM
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Make a cut with your x -acto blade or razor down the center line of the aileron for each slot.
Take your time paying attention to the straightness of your cut,don't try to go too deep at first,just continue to increase the depth of the cut until you have the blade in to half the depth of the hinge.
Now turn the blade around and use the back side of the blade to dig out the balsa from the slot. repeat for the rest

Once you have dug out the balsa from the slots,trial fit the hinges in each slot ,they should be able to slide in with minimal effort.

Once the are all in place ,make sure they are perpendicular to the hinge line and once satisfied glue with a drop of thin Ca on each side of the hinge
{you can use medium Ca for this applying it to the hinge before you slide it into place ,but if you are not quick or if the hinge hangs up while you are sliding it in ...you have a problem}
Jan 14, 2018, 06:18 PM
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Once the Ca is set with the hinges firmly in place.
Take a sanding block and bevel the leading edges of the ailerons to provide for their up down movement .

Once done mark the ailerons for the right and left sides,then line them up on the TE of the wing and mark the corresponding slot location for the hinges ...you want the outside of the aileron to be even with the back of the wing tip.
Using a sharp {new x-acto} blade cut your slots in the epp TE down the center.. go slowly so as not to tear the foam .


This is the Foam Tac I used to glue these hinges into the wing {it comes in this neat easy to handle size that is perfect for small jobs like this and field repairs .

DO NOT GLUE THE AILERONS IN YET
Jan 14, 2018, 07:43 PM
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The reason we have not glued the aileron's in yet is that: the Ca you used to glue the hinges into the balsa ailerons tends to wick forward through the rest of the hinge making it stiff/stiffer.
So we want to flex/crease the Ca hinges,I use a pair of lineman's pliers about 1/16 forward of the LE of the aileron on each of the hinges.
Holding the hinge square and tight bend/flex the hinge back and forth a couple of time to 90 degrees to free it up .
Once satisfied do one last final check of the fit of the hinges into the wing .

We are going to leave a uniform 1/8 " gap between the TE of the wing and the LE of the aileron, then we will iron the covering top and bottom into this gap sticky side to sticky side to form a continuous hinge when the covering is complete, very strong,very efficient

When ready,one aileron at a time put a dab of Foam Tac on the top and bottom of each hinge,also insert a small flat blade screw driver into each gap on the trailing edge slots ,twist it to open the slot and squeeze a bit of FT in there also,then slide the aileron into place leaving the 1/8 "gap
Repeat for the other side aileron.
As the FT starts to cure you can press the foam/wing down around each hinge and eliminate any bump caused by the hinge

You might have noticed :the instructions call for cutting a 1 inch piece off the inside of each aileron.
I waited until the covering was complete to do this,it makes the cover covering job a little less complex.
Last edited by BDOG1; Jan 14, 2018 at 07:50 PM. Reason: more info
Jan 14, 2018, 07:51 PM
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Thanks Don
Jan 15, 2018, 06:16 PM
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CG and servo install


Now we can move to installing the servos .
First off mark the position of the Center of Gravity on the wing : I like to use masking tape to draw my reference lines on so i leave no marks to contend with in case i decide to finish the plane with lighter colors .... plus if you screw up just rip off the tape and start again

I set my servos as far outboard as possible {with out using a servo extension} to install my control horns nearer the center of the aileron and the flight loads.

I placed the servo on top of the wing and traced its outline keeping it perpendicular to the trailing edge, repeat for the opposite side,making sure they are symmetrical side to side - measure twice cut once
I used a snap knife to cut along the outside line, then make more cuts across the inside until you have it divided up in 1/8 inch squares.
Now you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to "pluck"the foam squares out.
I leave the tabs on the servo arms to give more surface area for the glue
Jan 15, 2018, 06:17 PM
Held by Grace
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Make a hole for the servo wire through the bottom of the wing,then make a slit for it to run back to the receiver compartment
Last edited by BDOG1; Jan 15, 2018 at 07:09 PM. Reason: more pics


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