Thanks, all. Been beavering away in the man cave. Stabilizer and vertical tail are done. Both fuselage sides completed and will join them tomorrow.

So, Pete, your first post says this one will be 3 channel. Will you be cutting in an elevator, same as the rudder? Or did you decide to go rudder-throttle? I'm considering doing a second RDBO 2017 build this way, rudder and throttle only, with my kit-version 33" Korda Wakefield.

Curious to see what you do here!

Originally Posted by dgliderguy

So, Pete, your first post says this one will be 3 channel. Will you be cutting in an elevator, same as the rudder? Or did you decide to go rudder-throttle? I'm considering doing a second RDBO 2017 build this way, rudder and throttle only, with my kit-version 33" Korda Wakefield.

Curious to see what you do here!

Rudder/throttle is indeed my cunning plan. I flew with a single channel pulse system back in the 70s and really enjoyed it. I think a stick and tissue converted free flight design like this or the Simple Simon would be fun.

Fuselage sides joined. I beefed up the structure a bit, using a pair of balsa formers to get things squared up. Also added 1/16 inch sheet balsa doublers in the nose. Cross pieces are installed and gussets added for the wing mount.

Hello broken spar,
just a question : why do you put the balsa doublers inside the fuselage and not outside ?
Regards
GUY

Originally Posted by uram9

Hello broken spar,
just a question : why do you put the balsa doublers inside the fuselage and not outside ?
Regards
GUY

Guy, I like the appearance of the Warren Truss structure and want it to be visible through the translucent covering when finished.

At last, I've reached the strap-it-together stage. Undecided on the motor, but looking at a 12mm geared unit with 7:1 reduction drive.

Originally Posted by Dad3353

Good afternoon...

If I've understood correctly (it has happened, but rarely... ), it looks to me as if you're making the rudder 'flying', pivoting the whole thing instead of having a separate rudder behind a tail-fin. I'm embarking on an RC conversion of a similarly-styled 'plane (Udet Flamingo...). If my guess is correct, how did you establish the pivot point..? Here's a part view of my plan; is the line I've added the sort of pivot you're going to use..?



Thanks in advance for any guidance (or correction of my wild assumptions..! )

Douglas

Hi Douglas,
I have used flying rudders quite a bit. The hinge line is typically at about 33% of the chordline. Mine are a little aft of your proposed line. What helps is a solid pull-pull system using Kevlar or other non stretch line. I will post some pics later when I dig one of them out.
Mel D.

I was lucky to pick this Duplex Cabin up at the Perry GA Swap Meet several years ago. It was built as a free flight and I wanted to keep the vintage flavor. So I made BOTH the rudder and the horizontal stabilizer all moving. The rudder pivots on a piece of carbon fiber rod mounted under the stab. It goes up through a slot in the stab into aluminum tubing mounted in the rudder. If you look hard at the rudder side view, you can see the shadow of the tubing in the rudder and the slot in the stab. The lower stab side view shows the stab pivot horn (again if you look hard.). The stab used a standard pushrod. You can see the rudder pull pull horn made from AL tubing with a toothpick inserted in each side. I learned this from my good friend Rae Fritz.

Originally Posted by brokenspar

Guy, Just an answer: I like the appearance of the Warren Truss structure and want it to be visible through the translucent covering when finished.

At last, I've reached the strap-it-together stage. Undecided on the motor, but looking at a 12mm geared unit with 7:1 reduction drive.

I have used one like this on the Duplex Cabin and it works well. You can also use one of the high ratio GWS drives and use a larger prop. I ended up with a Hacker A10 HK clone outrunner because I did not like the gearbox whine......

BTW, your structure is gorgeous!!

Thanks, Mel. Nice conversion of the Duplex Cabin.

I'll definitely be using a geared power system for the Victory. A small, high rpm prop just wouldn't look right on this model.

Yeah, that's a really nice way to adapt free flight like surfaces to RC function. Retains much more of the proper FF look compared to hinge lines.

Originally Posted by brokenspar

Thanks, Mel. Nice conversion of the Duplex Cabin.

I'll definitely be using a geared power system for the Victory. A small, high rpm prop just wouldn't look right on this model.

I have been down that road. I tried a bunch of combinations of various kv 12mm motors and gearboxes trying to optimize for maximum prop size. I went as far as a Neu 12mm 3200kv in a high ratio GWS box. I got up to a 11” GWS Direct Drive prop trying to get to a 12” rubber prop. But the rubber prop just had too much pitch. After re-looking at the Duplex I ended up with an A10-13L on two 500 mah cells that at full throttle was over spec but I only ran that for a few seconds at takeoff. I ran a 9x5 DD prop. It was a compromise of the biggest prop I could get and still run a small out runner.
Best I can tell this is pretty close to the Hacker:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/c2028-mi...___store=en_us

Originally Posted by BMatthews

Yeah, that's a really nice way to adapt free flight like surfaces to RC function. Retains much more of the proper FF look compared to hinge lines.

Thx! Exactly what I was trying for.

Originally Posted by brokenspar

Guy, I like the appearance of the Warren Truss structure and want it to be visible through the translucent covering when finished.

At last, I've reached the strap-it-together stage. Undecided on the motor, but looking at a 12mm geared unit with 7:1 reduction drive.

What kind of covering are you thinking of? Tissue? Microlite?