Originally Posted by vupilot

Ktrails how did you apply the WBPU? With a brush (foam or bristle) or was it spray can?

I used my HF touch up spray gun. It took a couple of tries to figure out how much to thin it. What worked best was 30% thinned. I really like how how it came out - it looks nice and is very durable.

Edit: I read back through this thread and saw that I answered the wrong question! I applied the WBPU with a simple foam brush. The answer above is how I applied the Systems 3 clear coat. Also, to answer someone else’s question, this is “high tech” stuff with cross-linker.

Kraft paints are V low grade imitations of Artists colours. Try? genuine artists acrylics More $$ but their pigment content is massive as in they can be thinned to airbrush water like consistency and still cover well. And are durable as in you won't be scratching them off.. at all.
Also once fully cured they are (my liquitex ones at least) 30% Nitro proof.
Sometimes ya gotta pay for quality :-)
On that note suggest buying /using Varathane brand WPU.
Minwax is a lesser grade product

Harbor freight sells a detail gun with the 4oz cup up top that will give excellent results. You can buy them for about$30 and sometimes as low as $20. They also have small compressors, but I don't have any experience with them. I have an automotive paint place near me that will make you small quantities, but as you know auto paint is expensive, but the best in my opinion

.https://www.harborfreight.com/20-fl-...gun-62300.html

Bare,
How well do the liquitex acrylic paints cover. Could you elaborate a bit? I did not know that they were fuel proof. I wish I had your post a few days back. I just put a base coat of rattle can on a UFO, and had the expected results. I usually use my spray equipment, but am not set up for that right now.
Mel

Originally Posted by carlgrover

Before pulling the tape off, run a fingernail over the edge to get any excess off the trim tape that you will be pulling up. I do this when I shoot dope. I also let the dope dry pretty good before trying to pull the masking tape off.

For epoxy paints, I pull the tape up as soon as I'm done shooting. Pulling the tape over itself will help no matter what kind of paint you use.

The real trick is to put the paint down super light and go real easy on those edges. For small areas, use an air brush and choke it down so it sprays a finer line.

carl

Another trick for preventing paint bleed under a mask is to spray the light coat first....then mask.

Then spray the same color at your masked area first before spraying your next color. That way if any paint bled under the mask, it is that same color as the base...and now the mask is sealed for the 2nd color.

Also if paint chipped at the mask edge I either do fine touch up to the chips or another solution is 3M fine-line pinstriping tape....makes a nice border pinstripe. Only the 3M tape is the "good stuff"

Originally Posted by Bare

Kraft paints are V low grade imitations of Artists colours. Try? genuine artists acrylics More $$ but their pigment content is massive as in they can be thinned to airbrush water like consistency and still cover well. And are durable as in you won't be scratching them off.. at all.
Also once fully cured they are (my liquitex ones at least) 30% Nitro proof.
Sometimes ya gotta pay for quality :-)
On that note suggest buying /using Varathane brand WPU.
Minwax is a lesser grade product

I didn稚 know there were different kinds! Thanks for the information. I知 going to get some of the artists colors and give it a try. Thankfully I hadn稚 started painting the plane yet!

Originally Posted by Bare

Kraft paints are V low grade imitations of Artists colours. Try? genuine artists acrylics More $$ but their pigment content is massive as in they can be thinned to airbrush water like consistency and still cover well. And are durable as in you won't be scratching them off.. at all.
Also once fully cured they are (my liquitex ones at least) 30% Nitro proof.
Sometimes ya gotta pay for quality :-)
On that note suggest buying /using Varathane brand WPU.
Minwax is a lesser grade product

Would you please make some recommendations as to brand and where to purchase. Maybe purchase from Hobby Lobby or Michaels craft stores???

Thank you!

Ken

Originally Posted by kenh3497

Would you please make some recommendations as to brand and where to purchase. Maybe purchase from Hobby Lobby or Michaels craft stores???

Thank you!

Ken

The one brand - Liquitex - "Bare" recommended, is available at Michaels:
https://www.michaels.com/liquitex-ba.../D013365S.html

Michael in Ontario, Canada

Originally Posted by 2michaely

The one brand - Liquitex - "Bare" recommended, is available at Michaels:
https://www.michaels.com/liquitex-ba.../D013365S.html

Michael in Ontario, Canada

Oh, cool, Thank you. One question, are these paints glossy or more of a matt or semi gloss? I guess it doesn't matter as they can be clear coated with automotive type urethane.

Ken

Great thread!

Like the OP, I'm just wrapping up a build and trying to decide on the best way to finish it. I've been using rattle-can finishes with reasonably good success but am very interested in learning from others. Would love to take my game to the next level.

Have you tried any of the Vallejo colors? I've just recently started using them on the recommendations of a couple other very serious scale modelers and have found them to be extremely "sticky" with lots of pigment. I'm told they can be thinned a lot and still cover very well. I've used them on my current build for painting some of the detail areas (such as the dummy engine and pilot figure) but haven't gotten as far as buying an airbrush and compressor to paint the airframe itself.

Someone earlier in this thread suggested using artist's quality paints instead of craft paints and I'm sure these would fill that bill. They are water soluble acrylics so they definitely will require a fuel-proofing top coat if you're flying a gasser. They have a huge color selection and are a bit pricey. They are available in our area from HobbyTown USA. I'd love to hear from anyone who's worked with them.

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Kingbird49

Great thread!

Like the OP, I'm just wrapping up a build and trying to decide on the best way to finish it. I've been using rattle-can finishes with reasonably good success but am very interested in learning from others. Would love to take my game to the next level.

Have you tried any of the Vallejo colors? I've just recently started using them on the recommendations of a couple other very serious scale modelers and have found them to be extremely "sticky" with lots of pigment. I'm told they can be thinned a lot and still cover very well. I've used them on my current build for painting some of the detail areas (such as the dummy engine and pilot figure) but haven't gotten as far as buying an airbrush and compressor to paint the airframe itself.

Someone earlier in this thread suggested using artist's quality paints instead of craft paints and I'm sure these would fill that bill. They are water soluble acrylics so they definitely will require a fuel-proofing top coat if you're flying a gasser. They have a huge color selection and are a bit pricey. They are available in our area from HobbyTown USA. I'd love to hear from anyone who's worked with them.

Cheers!

Hi Kingbird, i was literally just at Hobby Lobby to get some artists acrylic paint that was recommended. However, they close at 8, not 9 like I assumed (I shoulda gone to Hobby Lobby first, and then Home Depot ). Hopefully I値l pick some up soon. I have kinda stalled on my project with many other competing priorities. However, I plan to use these artists acrylic paints as soon as i resume work on it. I値l post back here how they work out.

I'm getting some traction on this project again after it got stalled for a while! Apart from the normal "life" things, my son took an interest in building a VTOL drone, so I switched my "hobby" attention to that and I took on finishing up a Thunder Tiger Sweet Stick 40 RTC that my dad started about 30 years ago. It's covered and ready to fly an I'm awaiting his flight report!

Now back to my Hog Bipe painting project. I ended up spraying high build primer on the wing and fuselage, but covering the open bay areas with tape. I did this because I had pinholes, not a fabric look, in places when a sprayed the wing with a white base coat. I sanded the primer down and am now ready to shoot a white base coat on both wings and the ailerons.

I made a couple of jigs for holding the wings and ailerons while I spray them (pics below). I picked up some premium acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby (I'll post a pic later). We'll see how that works! My first attempt did not come out very good because I thinned it too much. I went with 50/50 because that is what I was doing with the craft acrylic paint, but that was too thin for this paint. It dripped a lot after I sprayed it. I'll have to sand it and try it again!

To better answer your question what kind of finish are you looking to get overall, flat satin or high gloss, no pin holes I’m guessing on any one of the finishes.

Bob

Originally Posted by sensei

To better answer your question what kind of finish are you looking to get overall, flat satin or high gloss, no pin holes I知 guessing on any one of the finishes.

Bob

I知 going for a more satin finish.

Originally Posted by ktrails

I知 going for a more satin finish.

I would put a couple of coats of Stits poly dope, scuff that down with some 600 grit wet. Next a couple coats of Stits poly spray, wet sand again with 600 grit. Now you can use automotive base coat for your colors or even latex, once completely dry just clear coat everything with automotive clear with the flattening compound added. You can add a little for satin, allot for flat or none for gloss. Here is one of my models covered in cloth and prepared as I have explained.

Bob