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Oct 09, 2021, 10:28 PM
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Mel, several years ago I was scrounging through the local electronics surplus shop (We used to have a really good one in the area) and ran across a gold mine of Switchcraft reed style switches for about a buck a piece. I bought twenty or so. Below: Earlier version (note lack of crystal) in my Matador.
Last edited by grotto2; Oct 09, 2021 at 11:19 PM.
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Oct 10, 2021, 09:10 AM
Missileer Extraordinaire
Mel Duval's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by grotto2
Mel, several years ago I was scrounging through the local electronics surplus shop (We used to have a really good one in the area) and ran across a gold mine of Switchcraft reed style switches for about a buck a piece. I bought twenty or so. Below: Earlier version (note lack of crystal) in my Matador.
Will start looking. I have a Matador but for some reason the previous owner stripped the markings off. Any chance you could take a couple high resolution pictures of the face?
Oct 10, 2021, 09:20 AM
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Ron,
Was commenting on a thread over in the Radios forum where the question was about what appeared to be digital trim switches and an Arduino encoder board and had a thought. The Reed SE is doing just that. Looks to me like it could be used in a transmitter with regular gimbals and digital trim switches. I/O would be the question. And quite honestly, the marketability is a question because as I commented to the OP, transmitters with digital trim switches usually have significant programming capability already. But if you have a catastrophic encoder failure, it would resurrect a favorite transmitter I guess.
Oct 10, 2021, 10:11 AM
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OilNBolts's Avatar
My Lemon module finally arrived in the mail, so it is time to rebuild my ProLine project. I was never able to get a multi-protocol module to re-bind reliably, or to produce acceptable range. Also, I am going to switch to 18650 x2 power. Updates to follow.
Oct 15, 2021, 07:57 PM
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Good News and Bad News


Well, the good news is that the special knurled nut tool got here. Bad news is that the darn nuts were so tight I had to break them loose with a pair of pliers. The tool slipped on the nuts however tight I made it. Once I broke them loose, the tool worked great to get them loose and will be good for putting the new nuts on. Now for the switches. I ordered some long toggle leaf switches and some short ones. The ones I got are going to take some disassembly and tweaking to make them work. Some notes:
1. The long ones are easier to tweak, but are significantly more expensive.
2. Switchcraft switches are twice what the imports cost but are better built.
3. To do what is needed the typical guitar switch needs to have the leafs re-ordered.
4. The short ones I got needed to have the plastic piece that latches the toggle removed. Easy to just cut it loose with a hobby blade.
5. Put some packing tape down on the face of the transmitter when you are taking the nuts off.

Honey dews this weekend and work this coming week is going to limit my work on it. But late next week I will have some time.
Oct 17, 2021, 09:52 AM
AMA 32832 - SPA L27-VRCS 1138
Dave Swanson's Avatar
My Orbit system. Would love to do something with it one day.

Oct 17, 2021, 08:06 PM
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A small bit of progress. I got a few minutes to work on the long toggles. Pic one is how they came. Pic two is after tweaking the leaves and re-ordering them to turn the switch into an ON-OFF-ON momentary switch. The key during the reordering is to match up the “bumps” on the switch leafs so they meet point to point. Also, there are some leafs you don’t need and can leave out but you have to use all of the phenolic pieces so the screws and insulator tubes fit properly.
Oct 17, 2021, 10:31 PM
Registered User
This looks familiar, Mel!

I hope the diagram in the encoder manual is clear about the control wiring. The cable wiring shows physically how a Switchcraft leaf switch looks with the two resistors mounted.

When the switch is pushed in one direction the center contact should touch a leaf that connects to ground.
In the opposite direction, the center contact should touch a leaf connected to +5V.

At rest, the center contact should be at +2.5V. This voltage is provided by the two 10K resistors in series between the +5V and ground.

The first schematic in the manual shows a dotted rectangle that diagrams the switch connections.



-Ron
Oct 17, 2021, 10:43 PM
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Mel Duval's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by grotto2
This looks familiar, Mel!

I hope the diagram in the encoder manual is clear about the control wiring. The cable wiring shows physically how a Switchcraft leaf switch looks with the two resistors mounted.

When the switch is pushed in one direction the center contact should touch a leaf that connects to ground.
In the opposite direction, the center contact should touch a leaf connected to +5V.

At rest, the center contact should be at +2.5V. This voltage is provided by the two 10K resistors in series between the +5V and ground.

The first schematic in the manual shows a dotted rectangle that diagrams the switch connections.



-Ron
Hi Ron,
The plan is to jumper the two inside leafs together so it will do just that. Resistor to each of the outside leafs. One outside to +5 and one to ground. White wire to center connections.
Later,
Mel D.
Oct 22, 2021, 09:08 PM
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Got loose from work and honeydews for a bit. Got a little work done on the switches. I have all six I need modified to work as I need them to. Next to wire them up with the resistors and pigtails. Should get that done tomorrow.
Some notes:
1. First take all the leaves off.
2. Next bend the 45 degree angle on the longest leaves straight.
3. Select sets of long and short leaves with matching “bumps”, one tall, one short. They need to be “point” to “point”. They end up on either side of the frame. Note the picture.
4. Load the screws with insulators starting from the outside in with two insulators first, shuffling the parts to settle them on the insulators.
5. Then tweak the leaves using a small straight screwdriver at the base of the leaves. The inside leaves set the tension on the switch levers. The outside leaves set when the contact takes effect. I set mine for contact at the end of lever travel.
Oct 22, 2021, 09:17 PM
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Got loose from work and honeydews for a bit. Got a little work done on the switches. I have all six I need modified to work as I need them to. Next to wire them up with the resistors and pigtails. Should get that done tomorrow.
Some notes:
1. First take all the leaves off.
2. Next bend the 45 degree angle on the longest leaves straight.
3. Select sets of long and short leaves with matching “bumps”, one tall, one short. They need to be “point” to “point”. They end up on either side of the frame. Note the picture.
4. Load the screws with insulators starting from the outside in with two insulators first, shuffling the parts to settle them on the insulators.
5. Then tweak the leaves using a small straight screwdriver at the base of the leaves. The inside leaves set the tension on the switch levers. The outside leaves set when the contact takes effect. I set mine for contact at the end of lever travel.
Oct 23, 2021, 08:16 PM
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More progress. Got the switches wired up and mounted. If you look close, you can see I cobbled up the resistors using some 10Ks and some pairs of 4.7Ks. (Then I looked in the SE box and saw the 10Ks Ron provided. Oops….). Found an interesting interference between the elevator and elevator trim switches. The switches appear to be the same size but since they mounted all but two to the main pc board, they could manage the space better. So I put in one of the short switches. Lots of tweaking to get it to work. Had to disassemble the switch, cut the plastic locking tabs on each side on the frame, bend the long leaves straight, reorder the leaves, tweak for proper spring tension and then pull the plastic lever up just a little to keep the switch from catching at the end of travel. Then I mounted a new power switch from some of the switches I bought from Radio Shack. Was looking at the Lemon RF module first, but the HobbyKing DIY has a longer antenna mount that fits this TX better and the bind switch dropped into the existing battery check switch hole. Decided to mount the SE with Velcro on the mounting pads Ron graciously provided. Next to mount the SE to the pads.
Then wire the meter and put in some Velcro for the battery. Final assembly will go quick then setup and calibration. May get to it later tonight. We will see.
Oct 23, 2021, 11:11 PM
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It’s ALIVE!!!!!


The Reed SE is installed in the Kraft and working well. Setup went fine with exception of a bad solder joint on the switch I added. Too lazy to break out the magnifiers and I missed it. I really like the feature adjustment by the push buttons. Having two planes to set up will be handy. I used the test bench I built a while back. Along those lines I have fixed up a 7 channel World Engines transmitter as an encoder test fixture. I have mounts in it for an SE as well as a PhilG encoder.

The trim mix is neat to have, as well as the servo speed. Interesting that channels 5 and 6 track the trim positions mixed into aileron and elevator.

An aggravating note is the $35 special tool for the knurled nuts DOES NOT work on the cheap Chinese switches I bought. I will have to pick up a Switchcraft switch and see if it works on it.

Another interesting note is I tried to get the encrusted dirt and junk around the knurled nuts off with every solvent I had. Acetone, lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, and isopropyl alcohol. Nothing touched it. Even tried some oddball cleaning stuff. No joy. Ended up slicing it off with a new single edge razor blade held almost parallel to the surface. Got most of the heavy stuff.
Oct 24, 2021, 08:20 PM
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hook57's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Swanson
My Orbit system. Would love to do something with it one day.

Sell it Dave…
Oct 24, 2021, 08:21 PM
Registered User
hook57's Avatar
Very nicely done Mel!!


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