Thermal glider. Takahē 100" or 110" Build Log - RC Groups
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Dec 28, 2017, 07:20 AM
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Build Log

Thermal glider. Takahē 100" or 110" Build Log


Hi, First of all this is my first "Build Log" " Takahē "
I have build a few balsa gliders namely, the Bird Of Time 3m, Brolga2m 1/2a Lanzo bomber and Airborn as well as a few scratch build I love taking photos and enjoy building as much as flying but this will be my first log.

I contacted http://www.hangarone.co.nz/ and hounded them and hounded them into letting me have one of there new Takahē kits.
Its a 100" or 110" old school glider re-kitted with new technology ( laser cutting and built up construction of balsa and ply. Even a fully slotted interlocking fuselage construction. )

In the box there was included optional nose bulkhead with an electric motor mount and air-brake parts. I'm going to build this this Takahē as High-Start launch glider.

There are a full spec list on there page :)

I hope this will be of use to future builders and will show step by step how i build the kit.
Last edited by jimmy_arcane; Dec 31, 2017 at 08:37 AM.
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Dec 28, 2017, 07:26 AM
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The Kit


Firstly the kit arrived fast and double wrapped in thick brown paper. Wooot. New model alert.

The contents were very well cut and no damage. There were two full size plans. A fuse and a wings drawings .

The laser cutting was crisp the bits just dropped out.

Fuse is ply and thatís where I started. The fuse.
Last edited by jimmy_arcane; Dec 28, 2017 at 05:20 PM.
Dec 28, 2017, 07:30 AM
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The Fuse construction.

I lay the sides on the tape Covered plan and popped out F1 F2 F3 and glued them into position making sure there Square and straight ( using a little square and then weights and leave to dry. ( this the hardest bit, waiting to dry but if you mess this bit up the fuse not gonna be as nice as it could be ).

Once there firm and dry use the triangle stock along the bottom of the two half's to create bulk for sanding later. also triangle stock along the rear top of the sides. I glued and pinned until dry.

Note: Unless otherwise mentioned i am using TiteBond2.
Note: "Taped covered plan" when i start i tape the plans with clear tape, instead of using baking paper or the similar to stop the glue sticking to the plan. Its just the way i like to protect my plans
Last edited by jimmy_arcane; Dec 28, 2017 at 05:23 PM.
Dec 28, 2017, 09:30 AM
B for Bruce
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Direct link for those like me that have not seen the kit and could not immediately find it on the website;

http://www.hangarone.co.nz/takah275-...it-p-8829.html

Very much from the old classic floater school era for construction and overall look. Nothing at all wrong with that though! This will be fun to watch.
Dec 28, 2017, 06:15 PM
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When I applied glue to the triangle stringers and glue to the ply sides they curved slightly upwards. I added weight as they dried and once the glue was dry and the weights removed the side are as flat as the earth was once believed to be happy days.
Dec 28, 2017, 06:24 PM
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After a dry fit to confirm the sides fit together snug with no gaps I applied glue to the side and the F1 F2 and F3 and painters taped the sides together. Nice and tight but not so tight to bend the sides out of shape. With them taped together I placed fuse on top of the plan to check how it looks compared to the plan. And happy as a an elf at Christmas I was. You can just make out the black lines on the plan under the fuse, lines up nice.
Dec 28, 2017, 06:29 PM
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[QUOTE=BMatthews;38883683]Direct link for those like me that have not seen the kit and could not immediately find it on the website;

http://www.hangarone.co.nz/takah275-...it-p-8829.html


Thankyou for the link BMatthers
Dec 29, 2017, 04:21 AM
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Before glueing the bottom of fuse test fit to the fuse. Make sure the bottom fits snug in all the locating tabs and there is no gaps.

Glue alone the triangle stringers and on the edge on the inside top of the fuse. Once glued fit bottom and clamp ( I tape rather than clamp just due to the wife being so close to changing my ebay password. And I have no clamps. ) Tape is good. Lol.

I used scraps of wood in the top open part of the fuse so when I tape it up it does not pull it all out of shape.
Dec 29, 2017, 06:37 AM
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Elevator

I found all the bits for the elevator according to the plan. Actually. They were all cut from the same 6.mm balsa sheet. Again the lazer cut was awesome. Some just needed a little tease and they came straight out.

I took a few monents to sand any surfaces that were to be glued as sometimes if an edge is blackened slightly the glue may not sink in As good.

I did a dry fit and the pieces were all correct and fitted nice so one by one I glued and pinned in place.

The final step was braces. These were even lazer cut and as on one photo there were little groves in the frame for the braces to lock into. Like wow. Detail.

I will let it dry over night so itís good and strong then remove the pins and inspect for any touch up gluing that may be needed.
Dec 29, 2017, 06:32 PM
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Quick look

You have to have a quick look as you go
Dec 29, 2017, 06:40 PM
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Wing saddle doubler.

The way I did it. I had to trim 7mm of the bottom of the doubler as the triangle stock that runs the length of the fuse bottom corner is where you want the doubler to sit. Hope the photos make this make sense. once I trimmed and glued I had a little look through the dowel hole and Kabooma perfect.

I clamped the top with some little clamps ( borrowed ) and made some little chocks to ďpushĒ the doubler agents the side of the fuse. Again. Not to tight as to distort anything.

Glue dry time again.
Dec 29, 2017, 06:52 PM
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Bottom of fuse

Ok. Dry fit bottom of fuse. I find the laser cut bottom sits on F3 former.

If I had seen this earlier I could have sanded maybe 3mm off the bottom of the former letting the bottom sit as itís ment to into the location slots. However I didnít.

No biggie I trimmed 3mm of the front end of the bottom and fits like a treat.

Hope the photos help my explanation.
Dec 29, 2017, 09:59 PM
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Get him with the Laser beam

So far, I have not had one piece snap as I was taking it out.

And liking the detail. Even cut a notch out of the brace supports.

And the 6mm dowel passed straight through no sanding required.
Dec 29, 2017, 10:04 PM
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After dry testing and a light sand of the connecting pieces I glued and pinned.

Spot the diffrence. Lol. Photo 1 and 2. Doh. Lucky it was just glued and not dried.

I will wait an hour for the glue to start to go off then add brace pieces.

This it so far turning out to be a fast build.
Dec 29, 2017, 11:11 PM
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Great kit. Perfect assembly. I really like your work.


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