Turnigy G160 rewind (hpdLRK wye) - RC Groups
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Dec 20, 2017, 04:09 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar
Mini-HowTo

Turnigy G160 rewind (hpdLRK wye)


Hi folks, here is a step by step rewind of this large but very affordable motor. It is a very nice replacement for a 30cc engine.
Ronaldo
Link to the product: Turnigy G160

Manufacturer's specs and description:
Designed to be a direct swap out for your 160 size glow engine. The Turnigy EasyMatch G160 brushless outrunner will provide more power and with its high efficiency, long run times.
A quality motor, built specifically for planes designed to fly with a 160 size glow engine.

Spec.
Battery: 9~10 Cell /33.3~37V
RPM: 290kv
Max current: 78A
No load current: 11V/1.0A
Internal resistance: 0.022 ohm
Weight: 632g (not including connectors)
Diameter of shaft: 8mm
Dimensions: 89x64mm

Required;
85~ 100A HV ESC
6S~10S Li-Po

Test Data:
18.5v - 21x13 Prop - 73A - 6700g Thrust
22.2v - 19x12 Prop - 75A - 6000g Thrust

Suitable for sport and scale airplanes weighing 12 to 20 pounds (5.49kg).
Last edited by ronaldopn; Feb 14, 2018 at 09:55 AM.
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Dec 20, 2017, 04:12 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar

Checking kv before rewind


This step is a must before attempting any rewind. I use a cheap kv meter, my test battery and ESC.
I found 302kv which is reasonably close to the 290kv of the specs.
Dec 20, 2017, 04:20 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar

Counting number of wires on the strand and determining AWG gauge


I cut the motor leads and count the number of wires, in this case = 56.
Dividing the number of wires by 2 I get the number of wires used on one strand: 56/2=28
With a caliper I check the wire diameter and compare with a AWG to mm table.
Please note that the tables usually provide the wire dia without insulation so you have to take that into account. The closest gauge is 29AWG (0.2859mm).
Dec 20, 2017, 04:33 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar

Disassembling the motor


Remove the shaft circlip and separate the rotor from the stator.
Remove the bearings from the stator carefully without impacts. There is enough clearance to remove both without damaging. Store the bearings properly so they can be reused later.
I apply WD40 around the bearing tube and let it penetrate overnight.
On the next day, using a soldering iron I heat the bearing tube to weaken the epoxy and using Manuel's awesome stator removal tool I gently twist the stator until it separates from the bearing tube.
Unwind the stator carefully counting the turns.
Original wind: 7 turns of dLRK delta
Last edited by ronaldopn; Dec 22, 2017 at 01:49 PM.
Dec 20, 2017, 04:50 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar

Creating the anti-rotation pin to lock the stator/bearing tube


It is best not to rely on glue to lock the stator/ bearing tube so I add an anti-rotating pin as follows:
I cut a slot inside the stator using a pair of hacksaw blades.
I create another slot on the bearing tube using a mini drill + cutting disk.
Now using a small drill open a hole on the aligned slots. I use WD40 or Corrosion X to cool and lubricate the area. This will help drilling and reduce the chances of breaking a small drill inside.
Dec 20, 2017, 05:18 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar

Rewind


I still use Turn Calculator 5 to visualize my winding scheme options.
My target is 215-230kv to allow me to use a 19x10 to 19x12 prop for a little over 3000W.
My best option was the half parallel dLRK wind with wye termination. With 11 turns I can expect around 222kv.
Doing a little math I get the original copper fill of 12,5832mm2 (7 turns with a 28 wire strand of 29AWG). I decided to try with a single strand of 16AWG which would give me a copper fill of 14,3957mm2 (11T*1*1,3087). This represents an increase of 14,4% on copper fill.
Last edited by ronaldopn; Dec 22, 2017 at 01:52 PM.
Dec 20, 2017, 05:23 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar

Adding stator/ bearing tube anti-rotation pin


I use a 2mm pushrod which inserts snugly into the hole, then I bend the wire and cut the tip creating an "L" shape.
I forgot to take a picture of the bent wire installed.
Last edited by ronaldopn; Dec 22, 2017 at 01:53 PM.
Dec 20, 2017, 05:28 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar

Finishing


Finishing the motor and assembling to check new kv.
Measured kv=222kV (unbelievably accurate )
Dec 21, 2017, 10:55 AM
Registered User
manuel v's Avatar
nice
Dec 21, 2017, 05:54 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar
Thanks Manuel, I'm getting better, one day I'll wind as neatly as you.
This was one of the first motors I tried the sewing technique (rounding the tip of the wire and inserting it axially). Winding now has become easier than ever.
Ronaldo
Last edited by ronaldopn; Dec 21, 2017 at 06:02 PM.
Dec 22, 2017, 07:10 AM
Jack
jackerbes's Avatar
Nice job on the rewind and the how to for doing it.

Quote:
..I tried the sewing technique (rounding the tip of the wire and inserting it axially...
That "sewing technique" also called a "threaded turn" here and it is one of the signs of a man knitter that has advanced to the journeyman level!

Jack
Dec 22, 2017, 01:47 PM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes
Nice job on the rewind and the how to for doing it.
That "sewing technique" also called a "threaded turn"
Thanks my friend, I was trying to find the correct expression
I learned this trick from one of your posts, it is amazing the amount of copper I can fill now using the technique. It is particularly easier with the thick wires I use such as the 16AWG. Sanding and rounding the tip of the wire is much easier since it is very stiff.
I was again amazed with the precision of Manuel's spreadsheet, again kV match up to the last digit.
Ronaldo
Last edited by ronaldopn; Dec 22, 2017 at 01:55 PM.
Jan 07, 2018, 08:36 PM
Master Prop Breaker
Beautiful job! I have often thought of adding a anti rotation pin. I've had glue fail on a large motor rewind (eflite power 60). Glue weakened, the stator spun, wires got sucked in , crashed. Of course, I soldered the ESC directly to the motor leads, predictable results. Started that habit after building multirotors, forgot planes can glide.
Jan 08, 2018, 09:18 AM
Ronaldo Nogueira
ronaldopn's Avatar
Thanks Chris!
I had this happened a few times too, once even with a motor in which I inserted an anti-rotating pin. The pin was probably too thin as it did not withstand the magnetic forces. Luckily I use a separated BEC so I still had control of the planes when it happened, minimizing damages.
I push my motors really hard and they run a bit hot even after rewinding. Heat will weaken any glue used between the stator and bearing tube so a well made anti-rotating pin is the only insurance.
The pin was only one of the many great tips and tricks I learned from the great experts of this forum.
Ronaldo
Last edited by ronaldopn; May 29, 2018 at 09:32 PM.


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