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Mar 19, 2018, 11:51 AM
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slowmatch's Avatar
Thanks AirDOGGe. I've looked into but not yet tried CorrosionX. Will give it a go.

Thanks,
Jon
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Mar 20, 2018, 06:24 AM
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Thread OP
Can this esc handle a 380 brushed motor?
Mar 21, 2018, 11:04 AM
Just Plane Nutts
AirDOGGe's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by redboat219
Can this esc handle a 380 brushed motor?

RC ESC, 20A Brush Motor, Electronic Speed Controller, For RC Car, For RC Boat

Features:
1pcs 20A brush speed controller.
RC ESC 20A Brush Motor Speed Controller w/ Brake for RC Car Boat Tank
Forward, reverse, brake function.
3.0V---9.4V working voltage.
This ESC can work with 130/180/260/280/380 Brush Motor.
2KHz driver frequency.

Description:
Function: forward, reverse, brake
Working voltage: 3.0V---9.4V.
Constant current 20A Max 25A< 30s Pulsed 50A< 5s
Input: Li-Po 2S / Ni-Mh/Ni-cd 4-7cell.

Specification:
Working Voltage: 3.0V---9.4V.
Dimension(L*W*H): 35.0*22.0*6.0mm
Current(A): 20A
Driver frequency: 2KHz
Input: Li-Po 2S / Ni-Mh/Ni-cd 4-7cell
Brake On / with brake
Color:red&black
Mar 21, 2018, 12:18 PM
Registered User
While the spec sheet says it CAN work with a 380, it doesn't say how well it works, or under what load conditions. I still have suspicion about Chinese Amps.
Mar 23, 2018, 12:45 AM
Just Plane Nutts
AirDOGGe's Avatar
20 amps is a lot of current headroom. I see people playing with these on Y-tube with 540 motors for brief periods . It might be worthwhile finding a heat sink to set across the 4 mosfets if you think you will be working it pretty hard.
Sep 15, 2019, 03:51 PM
Registered User
I bought one of these, a unit with brake, for a 1/18 crawler I'm upgrading (the Conqueror). It's frustrating the hell out of me because no matter what I've tried, as soon as the ESC is connected to the motor, the motor spins. There's no reverse or even neutral, for that matter. The receiver is bound successfully, the steering servo works perfectly. This is with a FlySky FS-GT2E. It appears there may be some way to recalibrate this ESC as there are supposedly features to work with 2S LiPo or NiMH packs, from 4.8V up.

It seems to me that it's a throttle calibration problem as the transmitter trigger DOES affect the motor speed, it will speed up and slow down, but never stops (neutral) or goes in reverse. I've messed with the throttle reverse and trim, reversing wires to reverse motor direction, but nothing has helped. No matter what, the motor spins and I've found no way to set neutral or reverse. Is it a defective ESC? Does anybody have instructions or know how to recalibrate one of these? I've searched high and low and got nowhere.

I'd buy another ESC if this one is defective, but don't want to run into the same issue and waste my time and money. Help!
Sep 15, 2019, 07:47 PM
Registered User
Has nobody discovered a way to reset or recalibrate these generic no-name 20A ESCs?
Sep 15, 2019, 11:12 PM
Just Plane Nutts
AirDOGGe's Avatar
Standard throttle calibration for most ESCs is:

Turn on TX
Set TX throttle to full forward
Plug in ESC battery.
ESC males a sound as it sets max throttle
Immediately move the throttle stick or trigger of the TX to neutral position
ESC makes another sound, sets neutral and then goes into ready-to-run mode.


Not sure of this one follows standard procedure, but can't hurt to check.
Sep 16, 2019, 04:16 AM
Registered User
I think that they come as-is. You get what is there. No provision for re-progranmming without putting your own custom programmed chip in there. That would be after finding out which chip the control program lives in.
If you want the ability to recalibrate an ESC, you need to think more up-market, which is where AirDOGGe's standard is.
These cheap ESCs operate to pulse lengths that most radios generate, giving a reasonable deadband for off, and proportional responce to full available speed either way. Very basic plug and play. You want or need more, look elsewhere.
Sep 18, 2019, 11:51 AM
Registered User
Thanks guys, I'll update this topic to admit to a brainfart.

When I connected this ESC in place of the existing toy-grade circuit board and battery and motor connectors, I followed this exact video. I cut off the exact same connector as this guy did, connected everything exactly as he did:

HB 1801 CONQUEROR [ MOD UPDATE ] New ESC + RX + Metal Servo 4x4 Rock Crawler @ SongoLand (14 min 24 sec)


As it so happens, the ESC I bought had the 2 red connectors' wires attached to different spots on the ESC, so instead of connecting the motors to the ESC's motor connector, they were connected to the battery/power connector. Logically, this would explain the strange behavior of the motors spinning as soon as they were connected, even when the throttle plug wasn't inserted in the receiver, even when the transmitter wasn't turned on. In my brainfart defence, these ESCs come with no instructions at all, and all you see in all the pictures are 2 pairs of red/black wires with a male and female red connector coming from the ESC, and nothing to indicate which is power and which is the motor connector. All I had to go on was that guy's video. (See attached pic.)

I did a test by connecting a servo to the throttle channel on the receiver and was surprised that the servo neutralized properly and pressing the Tx trigger forward/reverse made the servo swing both ways. So the voltage going out to the ESC was working properly, evidently.

When I tested it by swapping the leads so one pair of leads went to the motors instead of the battery connector, ba-da-bing...it all worked properly. The ESC made its startup beeps that it wasn't making before, the throttle was at neutral, and worked in both directions.

So, if you buy one of these cheap ESCs and when you test-connect the leads, if your motors spin all the time, even with transmitter off, even when the ESC isn't connected to the receiver--you probably have the wire leads to the motor and to the battery connectors reversed.
Sep 19, 2019, 03:26 AM
Registered User
When you look at any battery, it is generally noticeable that the metal parts are the female part of the socket, so to connect an ESC to the battery, the corresponding shrouded pin connector needs to be used to get power in. Similarly, the "power out" to the motor uses the female connector. This reduces the chance of shorting out power. The connector with the visible metal pins is the one that has power plugged into it, be it power from the battery to work the ESC or power from the ESC to work the motor.
I am surprised that the one in the video worked at all, given that battery power was being input to the ESC output. Unless there was some video editing, or he ended up with a very non-standard battery connector and everything else inverted to match.
It says a lot for modern electronics that your ESC survived, I have seen a few early ESCs killed by the owner taking a casual attitude to which wire went where, thinking that they were like the old resistor controllers.
Sep 19, 2019, 03:43 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfr02
It says a lot for modern electronics that your ESC survived, I have seen a few early ESCs killed by the owner taking a casual attitude to which wire went where, thinking that they were like the old resistor controllers.
Oh, trust me, there was nothing "casual" with my wiring up this ESC. I researched how to wire it many times because the 2 videos I watched didn't really show this, and because the $6 ESC had no indication which of the 2 red connectors was which. This is the first time I've heard the "generally noticeable" fact that connectors with the metal pins are the inputs while the male connectors with holes are outputs. It's good to know, I had no idea this was a standard. And yet, in the video I linked, this wasn't the case anyway.

You can see my idea of casual modding on page 5 of this 1/18 crawler modding topic here:

Modding the Conqueror crawler

And some of my resto-modded vintage RC car projects here:

Not-so-casual resto-mods
Sep 20, 2019, 04:41 AM
Registered User
Not saying yours was done "casually", just that owners of ESCs that were passed to me for a look at had been a bit casual about instructions. I suspect that the guy in the video got it wrong first time and edited his way past the problem and correction.
On ESCs, if I don't know which wire is which, I tend to follow the board tracks - the motor ones generally go to the output transistors or relay contacts, depending, the others go to, usually, either end of an electrolytic capacitor.
Regarding plugs, sockets, and power, the simple rule to remember is that anything that offers power will usually be a well shrouded receptactle, anything that takes power will have pins, even is they are also protected. Works with mains and wall sockets, as well as pretty much anything else. You don't usually design so that fingers can find power, if fingers are not a consideration, you try to make it difficult to create a short circuit.
Sep 20, 2019, 10:33 AM
Registered User
mfr02, I thank you for sharing that info about the connectors, I've been into RC cars since the early 80's and custom modding vintage cars with modern electronics and parts for over a decade, and I never knew that. It's always great to learn some new tidbit of info.


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