OS 61 SF - Can it be salvaged? - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Dec 04, 2017, 11:40 AM
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I get mine from Dollar General. Shows you can get at Dollar Tree, Dollar General, Family Dollar
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Dec 04, 2017, 11:42 AM
Registered User
Bare's Avatar
Won't rust dissolvers Eat aluminum ?? Or Is Eze rust somehow different ?
A heat Gun will soften Castor Goo in a couple of minutes. Which will at least quickly tell you if it is Rust OR Castor
Dec 04, 2017, 12:17 PM
Vintage Aircraft Lover
GallopingGhostlr's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bare
Won't rust dissolvers Eat aluminum ?? Or Is Eze rust somehow different ?
I don't know about Eze-Rust. Most rust removers contains phosphoric acid (i.e., Naval Jelly). It leaves a phosphorous film after being washed off, that helps to inhibit rust. I've used muriatic acid, available in swimming pool and plumbing supply places (used to adjust PH levels in swimming water and clean plumbing fixtures and pipes. Be careful when using, it is still strong.) Being diluted hydrochloric acid, it is cheaper than phosphoric acid. However, it does not leave a rust inhibiting coating that buys you a short amount of time prior to lubricating or priming with paint. Items start rusting immediately, so I jump to the next step.

But you are right. I wouldn't use any acidic based rust removers, because they will dissolve aluminum. I'd remove the steel / iron parts first, then treat those separate. I don't know about the enzyme type rust removers that use bacterial action to remove rust.
Dec 04, 2017, 12:20 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
Evapo-Rust is harmless to aluminum, and everything else except rust.

I use Dupli-Color engine enamel with ceramic.

I have tried the anti-freeze method before and it is not a preferred method for me.

I have seen a couple of Macintire's videos where he used the ultrasonic machine and the soap. I have alternative methods.

Purchasing another engine might make a lot of sense but like I said I think this one has sentimental value. We shall see.

Thanks for the comments.
Dec 04, 2017, 12:45 PM
Registered User
I'm agreed with others above. Soak it in lacquer thinner for a couple of days, then go at with an old tooth brush. Some of that 'rust' may very well be castor oil schmutz. You may be surprised.
Dec 04, 2017, 12:56 PM
Registered User
It's going to need new bearings no matter what, so as long as the piston and liner are in good shape and the crank isn't bad it shouldn't be too much to get back running
Dec 04, 2017, 01:04 PM
Vintage Aircraft Lover
GallopingGhostlr's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmot
Evapo-Rust is harmless to aluminum, and everything else except rust.
Unfamiliar, I looked it up: https://www.evapo-rust.com/

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evapo-Rust
BIODEGRADABLE. Evapo-RustŪ rust remover is safe on skin and all materials except rust! It's also biodegradable and earth-friendly. Water soluble and pH-neutral, Evapo-RustŪ is non-toxic, non-corrosive, non-flammable, and contains no acids, bases, or solvents. Evapo-RustŪ is simply the safest rust remover.
It looks like a worthwhile product to try. Not long ago, I bought Naval Jelly, was disappointed; they've diluted it, took too long and too many reapplications (cleaning up a rusted motorcycle package rack). Used the same 45 years ago, worked fast, effective, quick. Licked most of the rust spots off my 1968 Hino Contessa (Japanese Renault) bumper on first application, rest on 2nd. (Chrome plating was thinner than on American cars, more prone to rusting.)

Quote:
I use Dupli-Color engine enamel with ceramic.
Another option may be VHT engine paint, Shelly Ramos (E-bay verysassyblond uses it on her rehab'd nostalgia engines (i.e. McCoy Red Heads and K&B Green Heads). I finally broke down and bought Dupli-Color; got a few whines for leaving my McCoy .35 Red Head in plain aluminum on my Ringmaster CL.

Quote:
Purchasing another engine might make a lot of sense but like I said I think this one has sentimental value. We shall see.
There's a certain amount of satisfaction bringing a botched engine back to life. I've straightened bent crankshaft prop shaft, freed frozen engines, cleaned up badly discolored aluminum exterior using Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish for final clean-up, etc.
Dec 04, 2017, 03:17 PM
Registered User
I TOBOR's Avatar
I use Dupli-Color engine enamel with ceramic.

Thanks
Dec 04, 2017, 03:40 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
Here is the engine straight out of the Evapo-Rust after soaking for two days, and then rinsed under hot water. It did the trick. A little bit of 3-in-1 oil and I was able to turn the crank and get the thing apart. The rear bearing is still rusty and crusty around the outside diameter and won't come out yet so I am soaking the case in the derust solution some more. The piston pin and keepers are very rusty also and are back in the soak. I think the engine got flooded with water, and left that way, hence the enormous build up of rust. I am giving the crankshaft some more time in the derust solution also. I think it will be usable after polishing.

Ghost, I have used the Evapo-Rust for several years. It is everything they claim in their literature.
Dec 04, 2017, 03:47 PM
Registered User
Bruferrit's Avatar
Kmot, have you seen this video, by David McIntire?
Engine Cleaning 101 (12 min 50 sec)
Dec 04, 2017, 03:57 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
[/b]

I would tend to agree, however, castor sludge can look like rust and is often mistaken for such. A good soak in acetone or even a 50/50 mix of acetone and Dexron ATF should free it up enough to get the crank out and look at it closer.
I agree looks like congealed castor, the clue is the color of the fluid squeezing out of the crank pin bushing, brown not red. Rust is red, castor is brown. Sometimes if real dark scrape off a bit to see the real color. Still could be rust under the castor sludge.
Dec 04, 2017, 04:01 PM
Registered User
Kmot heat is your friend when taking bearings out. I use my heat gun concentrate heat where the bearing is at and then use a wood dowel and knock it out
Dec 04, 2017, 04:24 PM
Registered User
I TOBOR's Avatar
It looks like a keeper from here, I personally don't fool with heat, I just knock them out with what ever is handy and push the new ones in with an 8" vise and a selection of carefully chosen sockets and small hardwood blocks. It's nearly effortless.
Dec 04, 2017, 09:08 PM
Registered User
kablake's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks
I'll take the dark color over crudded up parts any day!
I was able to lighten up the surface again, not to new, but I used a of toothbrush and this cleaning powder..

Bar Keepers Friend, Powder

With a little dish soap too..

It worked pretty well..
Dec 04, 2017, 09:33 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyP.
Kmot heat is your friend when taking bearings out. I use my heat gun concentrate heat where the bearing is at and then use a wood dowel and knock it out
Thanks Billy. I already used my heat gun until it was too hot with gloves and a rag to hold on to and it still did not budge. I figure a little extra rust busting will help things along though.


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