Your prints look good, almost satin finished. You must be using a good quality PLA.
Part F2 seams to have a few dropped extruded filament lines in the inner structure.
Please keep posting Iīll keep following your work

My ft5 didnīt had a layer fan, only the extruder one but I never used the original extruder, the melamine parts from the X carriage seamed too flimsy and failed right at the stress test

On mine I also replaced the idler bearings and made the X carriage I sent you before and used it with a prusa extruder wth an e3d v6 hotend. The prusa extruder has a parts fan, a radial fan in the front.

Also added auto bed levelling with an induction sensor, you are printing over a glass I used to print over a pei sheet glued to the aluminium heated bed, the heated bed had had a sledge in the middle to become flat but it worked.

Iīm sending you some pictures from my machine right before I sell it, the tube is just a feeding tube it allows the extruder to move freely without pulling filament directly from the spool, the print improves and no more tangled filament.

Right where the F2 is about to join the servo tray together on the inside
the two sides get thin and they warped UP and the extruder crashed
into them once or maybe twice and got misregistered. ;>{

I let it go figuring I'd just pop it apart and glue it together like another Fuse segment.
But your terrific interior Bracing made it a NO POP APART moment.
So I'll likely reprint them both ONE AT A TIME and keep an eye on the F2/Wing saddle part
as it approaches that area again.

I suppose a Cooling fan WOULD have prevented it from happening in the 1st place.

My 12" x 12" Glass is just a 3mm mirror glass and I've applied sticky back PEI to it.
I have a couple of them and can swap them on and off quickly between prints.

Winter arrived last PM so my sense of urgency has diminished.

I'm also printing some Xmas presents et al Just artsy stuff.

Thanx for Pix of your machine and ideas for moding.

Best

Bob @ Hoosier Cutout Service

PS you should be building Floats for flying at the "Lagoon" out at the Coast.

Lagoa de AlbuFeira

In the previous message I was thinking about a suggestion and ended up forgetting to put it dow.

I never had good experiences with anti backlash spring systems, at some point in the leadscrew they tend to stuck a little, sometimes not justa little, maybe its the quality of the chinese leadscrews I had... Well, the idea was to use ballscrews instead of normal leadscrews these have no play and there are in 8mm section.

Be careful with shortening the fuselage sections the wing will not fit.

Maybe your bed is not 100% well levelled. You could put a little of Z hop (retraction vertical lift in simplify3d) 0.4mm or so

No, never use a cooling fan on a thin wall, the part will be cracky and the layers will not adhere to each other. Give it a try if you want to see what happens, its an interesting experiment

Youīre welcome, I had my ft5 for only a few months but learned a lot from it, its a mean machine, gave me a few white hairs

Yes indeed, I will make the rcm floats in .20 and .40 size and will have to add two more holes in the plane fuselage to fix a second landing gear.

Lagoa de Albufeira, its about 80km from my home, chilly in the winter (chilly for us its about 15C and a 30km/h wind

has one flown already?

Hi Fred,
I have finished my Stick. The only problem I have is that Hitec HS82/81 servos will not fit into the wing pockets. Is it possible to alter the gcode to fix this?
Regards

Tom Watson
Sydney Australia

Hello Tom how are you doing?

Thatīs great would you please post a few pictures of your plane? Iīm really curious to see how it came out.

On the wing the hs81 servos may not fit easy, better use smaller servos. You donīt need hs-81 size servos on the wing anyway.

A good alternative is the corona DS-919mg Very good and cheap servos. Or the hitec hs55 will be just fine for an aileron.

The servo pocket has a double wall, you can use hot glue to fix the servos but donīt use a big hot glue gun, just one of those smaller 10watt or so and cool the glue as fast as possible.

Changing the gcode its impossible, I could change the design and make a new gcode but Its a few hours of work just to do that and I have no time right now.

Kind regards,
Fred

Just finished reprinting my Fin or Vert Stab.

I realized after doing the 1st that I'd missed setting the Perimiters to 1
for the Top portion of the print .

Wheew !! what a weight savings :>}

LG is next

L8r

Bob

Originally Posted by derfred

Hello Tom how are you doing?

Thatīs great would you please post a few pictures of your plane? Iīm really curious to see how it came out.

On the wing the hs81 servos may not fit easy, better use smaller servos. You donīt need hs-81 size servos on the wing anyway.

A good alternative is the corona DS-919mg Very good and cheap servos. Or the hitec hs55 will be just fine for an aileron.

The servo pocket has a double wall, you can use hot glue to fix the servos but donīt use a big hot glue gun, just one of those smaller 10watt or so and cool the glue as fast as possible.

Changing the gcode its impossible, I could change the design and make a new gcode but Its a few hours of work just to do that and I have no time right now.

Kind regards,
Fred

Hi Fred, here is my wing. I have found printable sticker paper that will stick very well to the printed parts. It is a matt finish and I printed with a ink jet printer. I will probably give it a thin coat of clear to make sure it stays on.
I will use the smaller servos that you suggest, thanks. I have not yet assembled the Fuse. How do you suggest I install the flight battery?, through the wing opening or somehow have the nose removable?

here are the wing pics

Originally Posted by birdofplay

Just finished reprinting my Fin or Vert Stab.

I realized after doing the 1st that I'd missed setting the Perimiters to 1
for the Top portion of the print .

Wheew !! what a weight savings :>}

LG is next

L8r

Bob

Hello Bob,

You only need the 2 perimeters in the first 2mm of the print, the rest can be just one perimeter, then at the top, just to close the print you can set 1 perimeter and 2 or 3 top layers. The gcodes have that and the factory files too.

Mine weights 30 grams.

The same top layer issue has to be set for the elevator halves and horizontal stabiliser halves, the rudder I think it doesnīt needs.

The wing tips have this issue too, you have to print them with 2 perimeters from about 2mm before the actual tip and the top and a few to layers too. Also, this is on the gcodes and .factory files.

Originally Posted by tommywatson

Hi Fred, here is my wing. I have found printable sticker paper that will stick very well to the printed parts. It is a matt finish and I printed with a ink jet printer. I will probably give it a thin coat of clear to make sure it stays on.
I will use the smaller servos that you suggest, thanks. I have not yet assembled the Fuse. How do you suggest I install the flight battery?, through the wing opening or somehow have the nose removable?

Nice! What is your printer? Are you printing straight from the gcodes?

If your decals donīt peel off in the first two weeks they will probably hold on. My preferred method is a stencil and a bit of acrylic spray. Adds no weight and its easy to do. And wonīt come off easy.


The nose is not removable, I put those pictures in the post with the nose off just to show the interior of the fuselage. The batteries must be changed from the wing, you have to unscrew the two wing screws and do it from there. The battery holder should be right under the wing opening and it is also important to reinforce the front of the plane, the landing gear is screwed with the 4 m6 nylon screws from below into the battery holder, it has printed threads.

The printed threads must be cleaned with an M6 tap.

Please keep posting your pictures

Hi Fred,

I have a Prusa I3 Mk2S and yes I printed straight from the Gcodes.

I have had the stickers on for a few weeks now and they are difficult to get off. I have done some stickers for the Stearman.
keep up the good work.

Hi Tom

Good printer. How is the belts tension, seam a bit loose but might be just the picture. They have to sound more less like a bass string an E, the ticker string. Both of them. If they are loose the inner structure will become visible because the extruder will not react as fast as it should to the changes in direction.

What is the brand of your stickers? I can recommend them at the site.

Here is another Stik done, this time on a cr-10:
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:414469

Iīm really happy to see you guys printing the plane

I got them from EBay. Semi matt finish so the ink dries quickly. won't work on my laser printer as they curl up in the printer. They need a printer that the paper goes straight through and does not do a "U" turn.
I will look at the belts, thanks

Regards

Tom Watson

Thank you Tom,

In the mean time I remembered that a friend once suggested me these:

http://www.micromark.com/INKJET-DECAL-TRY-IT-PACK

He applies a thin coat of clear spray to fix the decals.