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Nov 20, 2017, 03:16 PM
Jan Spatny
Build Log

Supertrino Mark II

Hello friends,

you might have noticed, me, Donatas and Zilvinas started a new project together: Afordable but competition level F3P plane. The goal of our effort is to promote the category. We know that bulding carbon plane takes a lot of skill, patience, time and some money (in general the things many beginners and young pilots dont have YET). Depron planes lack some qualities (indestructability for example) of full carbon planes but you can build them in fraction of time that you have to spend with full carbon. The decision which way to go is on you of course, but if you choose my design Supertrino mkII here is a build log to answer some of your questions. If you have some more, feel free to ask, we will be happy to answer them.

Here is a link to Donatas' page:

Technical data:
Wingspan: 89cm
Length: 107cm without power unit
Weight of prototypes: 48g

Video of Adam Hrbacek, beginner in F3P AA, winning his first competition in the category after about month of training:
Adam Hrbacek - Supertrino MkII, first competition flight in F3P AA, 1st place (4 min 5 sec)

And his fifth flight with the plane some time ago:
Adam Hrbáček F3P-AA 2017 18 (Supertrino Mark II) (3 min 31 sec)

Last edited by HonzaS; Nov 20, 2017 at 03:47 PM.
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Nov 20, 2017, 03:23 PM
Jan Spatny
First of all, DO NOT CUT THE INNER PARTS OF CONSTRUCTION OUT YET! Thank you for your attention.

Take all depron parts, put some both side adhesive tape on the inner parts and tape it to sheet of paper. Than cut the part out of the template. You will need the template for all parts later for painting.
Nov 20, 2017, 03:37 PM
Jan Spatny
The next step is covering. You will need 4m package of 3 micron thick mylar film and 3M77 glue in spray. I usually crumple the sheet several times and than tape it to the table. Do not stretch it too much! Here is a video of covering... but i use big sheet for several parts at once. Also be carefull not to bend parts. For example be sure to keep vertical parts of the fucelage straight!!! Once you glue them to mylar, there is no way back.

Mylar (5 min 35 sec)

On ailerons and elevator cut the hinge edges to the V shape and tape them from the bottom side together, to create a mylar hinge during covering.
Nov 22, 2017, 03:49 AM
Jan Spatny
Glue carbon fiber 3x0,13mm strip to the leading edge of wings. You may need to sand paper the leading edge. You may need to sandpaper LE slightly to get better fit of U shaped edge - normal for laser cutting - and flat CF strip. Be gentle and carefull! But if you break the depron, just glue it together - not big deal. I usually use BSI styro (medium) ca glue, Donatas has great experience with Mercury CA glues, use the one you can buy or you like.

Than glue front and rear parts of "fish bone" together and glue the 1,5x0,13mm CF strip the same way as you did with LE of wing to the "fish bone", from the rear to the joint of front and rear part you just glued togetger. You will need to cut two small triangular locks on each side of the "fish... Im not sure how you guys call it in english, i mean the horizontal part of fuselage.

BTW I usually apply glue to the Carbon strip rather than to the depron.

Now do the airbrush painting, I used just thick paper templates and a lot of small weights to keep them in place.

glue cf strip to the rear part og fishbone first (you can use shorter one, going just to the rear triangular lock), than do the painting, glue wings to fishbone, than use one cf strip going through the fuselage, than glue front part of the fishbone.
Nov 24, 2017, 05:22 AM
Jan Spatny
Carbon reinforce the elevator according to the picture. Glue the carbon strips in. You can use 3x0,13mm from strips you used on LE of wing or 1,5x0,13. After that I recomend first making the 2/3 triangle out of 0,3mm carbon, than the rest from 0,5mm. Try that your elevator servo fits in. You may need to glue in pieces of depron or cut some out. Depending on servo and how much millind you did to make your servo lighter. Make your servo very light! 2g is nice goal and totally achievable with Turnigy 1290P or spektrum A2010. Its better to modify the hole in elevator now rather than later.

Removable wings: First you have to make wing joint pins and glue them into glass fiber parts. Use longer for the front, shorter for rear joints. That has a good reason: First you will insert front pin and than you can take care of the rear, you dont have to insert both at the same time which is near impossible and noone in the world has enough patience. Note that some fiberglass parts are longer and some shorter - make assembly according to the picture. Tape the wing to the fuselage, and than glue in the fiberglass parts connected.

Dec 03, 2017, 12:01 PM
Jan Spatny
Remove wings (unless you glued the wing - than you have bad luck and harder work).

Prepare bottom part of the fuselage:
-dismantle a pen, than another, another... untill you find one with tube that you can use as a nut. Cut 2mm thread into it (or the size of plastic screws you can buy in your country, ...). Than use about 5cm of 2-3x0,13mm carbon strip, glue the 5mm long tube to it and use kevlar thread to strenghten the joint.

- glue it to the fuselage. Use another about 5cm long piece of strip to reinforce fuselage behind the hole for landing gear legs (those will be made from 1mm tube and will be 32cm long - note to self before i forget the length). Than use 1,5x0,13mm strip to reinforce the bottom of fuselage from the "pen tube" forwards.

-glue the bottom of the fuselage to the horizontal part. Be sure it is perpebdicular and straight.
Dec 03, 2017, 12:16 PM
Jan Spatny
-screw two wing strut stopper pieces of fiber glass to the fuselage. Mark them, which one is the upper one (the one that will alway be next to the fuselage) and the one that is between screw and the other piece of fiberglass.
-slide and tape wings to the fuselage
-glue one side of wing struts (carbon tube 0,7mm, you should find cuts in the depron approx 5cm from the end of the wing towards fuselage). Make sure struts are straight and the fuselage is perpendicular to the wing (CD with pieces of depron glued to it helps!). Repeat on the other wing.

Than you can make reinforcement from 0,5 and 0,3mm carbon fiber, and reinforce fuselage as shown (0,5mm). After that you can remove wings and reinforce joint between struts and fiberglass with CA spilled kevlar thread.
Dec 11, 2017, 01:40 PM
Jan Spatny
Finish the fuselage bracing. Make sure you keep the horizontal part straight and flat on the table. Glue the bracing on both sides of fuselage at the same time. CD and straight piece of wood can help you with the rear part of the fuselage. Take your time, this bit is important.

ONE MORE THING! All carbon fiber rods/tubes must be straight! If you glue them bend, the whole thing wont be very rigid.

DID I FORGET TO TELL YOU TO CUT THE REAR EDGE OF FUSELAGE TO MAKE FUTURE RUDDER HINGE? I forgot to cut it on mine too. Almost every time. Better do it before you glue vertical part of fuselage to the horizontal part.
Dec 11, 2017, 02:06 PM
Jan Spatny
Aileron bracing: first glue the "control horn". I use 0,7mm tube, T shaped glass fiber part and piece of kevlar thread. The ball link i used is from Trex 150.

i use depron templates to glue all pieces - the almost triangle from 0,3mm carbon (as shown on template) and than the brakes in another template.

the ball link shoul be exactly above the hinge line.
Triangular air brakes: i glued all four of them at once. Bottom ones are made partially from 0,5 and 0,3mm carbon rods, upper ones are from 0,3mm only. The longer side of the brake is ment to be outwards.
Jan 31, 2018, 10:18 AM
Jan Spatny
Sorry for huge delay guys... here are few more photos.

At this part of build i usually take a dremel and start with servos and so on. First you should connect all servos to receiver and test them, because changing bad servo is pain when its glued in plane. Than i cut as much plastic i safely can from the servo case, AND TAKE A PICTURE OF WIRING CONNECTION. Because when you change the wires you many wonder which side/wire was signal and which was minus. I use 0,2mm magnet wire for plus and minus and 0,1mm magnet wire for signal, tail servos have shared + and - wire to save weight. Measure the length carefully, have some extra 5cm to make instalation easier. However between esc, reciever and aileron servos you dont need to keep a lot of extra wire, as they are placed close together (see the picture of finished plane).

Aileron servo arm is obvious, for tail i use 0,7mm carbon tube. I drill hole in the servo shaft and glue the carbon in carefully with servo oriented shaft down, to be sure no glue can go to the gearbox. Its easier to drill the shaft while servo is powered up in my opinion.

Lenght of rudder servo control arm is 50mm, in elevator i am not sure but its clear from the picture. Make sure that central od servo shaft is aligned with pivot/axis? of elevator hinge. That means you will have to create small groove for the 0,7mm servo arm to be half of diameter under the surface of depron.

When you have all servos and receiver in the plane (do as much soldering before glueing electronics into the plane!) you can make aileron hinges, the same way you did wing joints. than you can slide wings on the plane and make pushrods.

Aileron pushrod has both ends ended with ball link and its made of 1mm tube. Cut them a tiny bit longer than necesarry, glue ball links to aileron end and reinforce the joint using kevlar thread. Than snap on ball links on servo arm, shorten the push rods and glue push rod to the ball link. Remove it from servo arm an reinforce with kevlar as well.
Feb 28, 2018, 04:22 AM
Registered User
Hi, thanks for all the details. Can you give us more information for rudder reinforcement and for the his link with servo.
Mar 20, 2018, 07:53 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by samy.p
Hi, thanks for all the details. Can you give us more information for rudder reinforcement and for the his link with servo.

How much of a weight increase does the removable wings add?

Mar 20, 2018, 01:59 PM
Registered User
Hi Jan,

Please more detail/pictures of upper wing bracing and air brakes.

Is the rudder a pull/pull system?

More detailed pictures of entire airplane are needed in order to complete build.

Mar 23, 2018, 07:52 AM
Jan Spatny
Top vertical part of fuselage is i think the trickiest part of build because it all happens "in the air", cant be put on the table or flat surface.

-use 2x0,13 cf strip to reinforce front part of fuselage
-insert the top part into the locks in horzontal part (rest od the plane) and check if its straight and 90 to the wing. Secure it with bits of glue.
-than i prepare/stick in the foam all bracings, but i let one end longer and glue the other end. This means you can align the top part of the fuselage and when you are happy with the result just apply small drops of glue to secure bracing.

To make alignment easier, i use depron 90 templates to align canopy to wing and glue 0,5mm thick bracing, than i try to align vertical stabilizer against bottom part of fuselage and glue 0,3mm rods bracing there, than i do the rest one by one.

EDIT: there is also a photo of top brakes. All made of 0,3mm. I glue them on top of the wing after rudder is hinged and rest of the plane is done.

Last edited by HonzaS; Mar 23, 2018 at 08:56 AM.
Mar 23, 2018, 07:59 AM
Jan Spatny
before you start make sure you did cut leading edge 45 degrees to create space for control surface movement after it is hinged.

Rudder should be hinget on bits of clear tape + the hinge that is part of control horn. I use quality kevlar line for pull pull and 50x0,7mm tube as rudder servo control horn (glued the same way as elevator servo arm)

Note: glue 0,3mm rods about 5mm from the ends of 0,7mm tube (closer to the center), not to the end of it as on picture.

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